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FRONTISPIECE. 


EGYPT’S  PRINCES. 


A NARRATIVE  OF 


MISSIONARY  LABOR  IN  THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  NILE. 


BY 

Rf.v.  GULIAN ‘"LANSING,  D.D., 

MISSIONARY  IN  EGYPT  OF  THE  UNITED  PRESBYTERIAN  CHURCI1, 
UNITED  STATES. 


“ Princes  shall  come  out  of  Egypt.” — Ps.  lxviii.  31. 


SECOND  EDITION. 


PHILADELPHIA: 
WILLIAM  S.  RENTOUL, 

25  NORTH  SIXTH  STREET. 


NEW  YORK  : ROBERT  CARTER  & BROTHERS.— PITTS. 
BURG  : U.  P.  BOARD  OF  PUBLICATION.— LONDON  : 
HAMILTON,  ADAMS  & CO.—  EDINBURGH : 
OGLE  & MURRAY. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1S64, 

By  Kobebt  Cabtee  & Brothers, 

In  the  Clerk’s  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for 
the  Southern  District  of  New  York. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 


CHAPTER  I 11 

The  Need  of  a Boat;  Season  of  Travel;  Missionary  Re- 
porting; Setting  out;  The  First  Missionary  Work ; The 
Nile  Boat. 

CHAPTER  II 27 


The  Blind  Schoolmasters;  Coptic  Churches;  Tho  First 
Teacher;  A Christian  Lord;  Selling  Books;  A Coptic 
School ; Copts  in  Ghinneh  ; Approach  to  Luxor ; Luxor ; 

The  Bishop;  Church  Service;  Tho  Mass;  A Coptic 
Priest;  Priestly  Power;  Priestly  Wealth ; Instructions; 
Erment;  Productions;  Needs;  John  Markus. 

CHAPTER  III 68 

Bastinado;  Punishments;  Government;  Retribution; 
Baking;  Temple  at  Esnoh ; Sowing;  A Bishop's  Letter; 
Mission  Work;  Esneh  ; Invitation  to  Preach  ; Danger 
and  Escape  ; Fasts;  A Protestant  Book ; Luxor;  Pros- 
pects. 


CHAPTER  IV 102 

Vaccination;  New  Measures  for  Vaccination;  Mission 
Work;  School  Building  Begun;  The  Virgin  Mary  ; A 
Templo  Home ; Style  of  Living ; Hints  from  the  Bishop ; 

(iii) 


IV 


CONTENTS. 


Oriental  Mourning;  Mourning  Women;  Funeral  Pro- 
cession ; Duration  of  Oriental  Mourning ; Priestly  Con- 
solations; Ancient  Funerals. 

CHAPTER  V 130 

Illness  of  the  Bishop ; Oriental  Visions ; Coptic  Authors ; 
Civilizers ; Fallacies ; Defects ; The  Facts ; Oppressions ; 
Degradations ; Inhumanities ; Assumptions ; The  True 
Beformer. 

CHAPTER  VI 166 

Lord  Haddo;  Bible  Work;  A Bishop;  The  Bishop; 
Strategy;  The  Design;  Coptic  Superstitions;  The  Pa- 
triarch’s Death ; Gospel  Teachings ; Tyranny ; General 
Degradation. 


CHAPTER  YII 1’?9 

Books;  A Scene;  Oppressions;  A Bishop;  Priestly  Cor- 
ruptions; Teaching;  A Plan;  Its  Success;  A Vision  ; 
Episcopal  Power ; Incidents. 

CHATTER  VIII 202 

The  Bishop;  A Bifle  Practice ; A Scene;  Distinctions; 

True  Greatness ; Incidents ; Preaching ; The  Bishop ; 

A Feast;  A Happy  Bishop ; A Coptic  Service;  A Coptic 
Baptism;  The  Bishop;  Mustapha;  Americans  and  Eng- 
lish ; The  Children ; Fam  Stephanus. 


CHAPTER  IX 236 

Journeying;  Sabbath  Work;  Self-Imposed  Bondage ; Ee- 
ligious  Services;  Doctrinal  Discussions;  Power  of 
Truth;  Beligious  Ceremonies;  Singing  Psalms;  A 
Night’s  Feast;  Iucidents;  Instruction;  Conscientious 
Sin. 

CHAPTER  X 260 

Christian  Schools;  The  Bishop;  Mummies;  Muslem  Fes- 
tivities; Scripture  Allusions;  Hieroglyphics;  Festal 


CONTENTS. 


V 


Procession;  An  Incident;  Muslem  Discussions ; Kind- 
nesses. 

CHAPTER  XI 281 

Transubstantiation  ; At  Negadeh ; A Noble  Man ; The 
Egyptian  Luther;  Punishment ; Release ; Perplexity; 
Ibrahim. 

CHAPTER  XII 209 

Moving ; A Faithful  Man ; Convent  Worship ; Bible 
Work ; Convent ; A Rich  Man  ; Opposition  ; Chicken 
Hatching. 

CHAPTER  XIII 316 

A Sight ; Working ; Book  Shops ; Abd-el-Masic-h ; A Visit ; 

The  Cavalcade;  The  Nazir;  Ibrahim,  the  Author;  A 
Sick  Case  ; Benisouef—  Fayourn  ; Priest  Makar  ; Con- 
trition— Blind  Preacher  ; Arrived  at  Cairo. 

CHAPTER  XI Y 342 


Official  Letters  ; Punishment  and  Release  ; A Scene  on 
the  Nile  ; Paris ; El  Kashif  Cornered ; A Grand  Dinner; 
“Will  not  Worship  Wood “This  is  Paris;”  Makhiel 
Ibrahim;  Novel  Cure  for  Drunkenness;  “One  of  a 
Thousand.” 


CHAPTER  XV 364 

Difficulties  of  Matrimony ; Repentance  too  Late  ; Young 
Makhiel ; A Superstitious  Student ; Makhiel  Excom- 
municated; Young  Makhiel  as  Preacher. 

CHAPTER  XVI 376 


Inquisitive  Wife;  The  Cotton  Crop;  The  Slave  Trade; 
Slavery  in  Egypt;  The  Oracle’s  Wisdom  at  Fault; 
Preparation — The  Caravan ; The  Convent  of  Damiane ; 
Our  Book-Shop  Secured;  The  Selling  of  Books;  The 
Chamber  of  Imagery  ; Our  Lady  Damiane  ; Supersti- 
tious Performances;  Feasting  and  Drinking.;  The 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


Shadow  Delusion;  Adieu  to  the  Sittna;  A Remarkably 
Hot  Day. 

CHAPTER  XVII. — Conclusion 

The  Civil  Government ; The  Classes  of  Population  ; Re- 
ligious Classes  and  Habits;  Increased  Enterprise, 
. Preaching  and  Teaching;  Christian  Missions;  Its  Prom- 
ises of  Christianity. 


409 


PREFACE. 


The  Egyptian  proverb  says,  “ Cast  him  into 
the  Nile , and  he  will  come  up  with  a fish  in  his 
mouth Without  laying  claim  to  the  uniformly 
lucky  character  which  this  proverb  describes,  I 
may  say  that  having  been  providentially  delayed 
in  this  country  a few  months  longer  than  I antic- 
ipated, the  present  volume  is  the  result.  Un- 
able to  sustain  the  wear  and  tear  and  excitement 
of  a tour  through  the  churches,  to  inform  those 
interested  in  our  mission  work,  of  what  the  Lord 
has  done  in  opening  the  door  of  frith  to  the  de- 
scendants of  Ham,  I trust  I have  not  been  pre- 
sumptuous in  the  hope  that  in  this  way  I could 
best  serve  His  cause  in  the  land  of  Egypt, 
j This  volume  does  not  pretend  to  give  a com- 
plete view  of  the  work  in  Egypt ; it  describes 
only  one  of  its  departments.  This  department  I 
am  conscious  furnishes  a field  for  stirring  narra- 
tive, and  the  description  of  exciting  personal 
adventure,  which  might  not  be  found  in  our 
more  settled  work  in  Alexandria  and  Cairo.  It 

(*) 


8 


PREFACE. 


is  not,  however,  on  this  account  that  I have  se- 
lected it,  but  because,  from  reasons  stated  in  the 
introduction,  I alone  have  had  of  it  the  notes 
which  form  the  basis  of  the  narrative. 

I may  here  be  permitted  to  state,  that  I think 
there  is,  in  our  churches,  far  too  prevalent  a taste 
for  the  stirring  and  romantic  in  mission  reports. 
The  missionary  who  explores  an  unknown  con- 
tinent, who  wades  rivers,  traverses  burning  des- 
erts, and  impenetrable  thickets,  and  fights  with 
wild  beasts,  and  even  with  more  savage  men,  is, 
on  his  return  home,  lionized,  and  it  may  be  right 
that  he  should  be ; but  should  not  then  his  more 
retiring  brother,  who  spends  long  years  in  the 
hard  back-bone  toils  of  the  study,  or  the  tread- 
mill of  school  and  pulpit  duties,  come  in  for  his 
share  of  the  glory?  I would  rather  traverse 
Africa  from  Alexandria  to  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  than  undertake  a second  time  to  master 
the  Arabic  language.  The  dashing  adventurous 
raid,  and  the  crash  and  shock  of  contending 
armies  on  the  battle-field,  furnish  material  for  the 
^graphic  and  entertaining  narrative ; the  more 
laborious  and  tedious  processes  of  the  siege — 
the  hard  toil  with  mattock  and  spade — are 
despised.  In  Alexandria  and  Cairo  we  have 
had  committed  to  our  care  large  numbers  of 
young,  impressible  souls ; and  in  training  them 
in  our  schools  as  well  as  in  the  regular  services 
of  the  sanctuary  we  have  spent  years  of  toil. 


PREFACE. 


9 


We  have  been  digging  deep,  and  laying  broad 
and  firm  the  foundations,  ^hile  our  enemies  have 
said,  “ What  do  these  feeble  ones  ? If  a fox  go 
up, he  shall  even  break  down  their  stone-wall.” 
Under  the  mask  of  patience  and  hope  we  have 
labored  on,  and  at  length,  God  in  his  providence 
has  removed  the  mask,  and  our  enemies  see 
with  confusion  that  a deep  trench  has  been  dug 
and  a solid  breastwork  built  in  front  of  their 
very  citadels ; and  late  reports  from  Cairo  show 
that  a strange,  mysterious  light  from  heaven  is 
playing  about  our  ramparts  which  attracts  to  it 
all  eyes.  This,  the  work  of  years  in  these  great 
cities,  I have  not  undertaken  to  describe  ; I have 
only  attempted  to  give  a view  of  the  beginnings 
of  a great  work  in  the  whole  land  of  Egypt. 

“ Princes  shall  come  out  of  Egypt ; Ethiopia 
shall  soon  stretch  out  her  hands  to  God.”  And 
they  are  coming  out  of  Egypt.  This  narrative 
shows,  that  crushed  and  down-trodden  though 
they  be  in  that  the  “ basest  of  kingdoms,”  pov- 
erty-stricken and  despised  by  their  proud  rulers, 
and  by  all  who  behold  them,  there  are  yet  many 
who  in  noble  friendship  and  generous  hospitality, 
and  earnest  adherence  to  truth,  are  indeed 
princes,  and  we  trust  that  this  may  soon  be  true, 
not  of  individuals  alone,  but  of  the  people;  that  the 
voice  from  heaven  shall  soon  proclaim,  “ Blessed 
be  Egypt,  my  people yes,  and  Ethiopia  shall 
soon  stretch  out  her  hands  to  God.  The  first 


10 


PREFACE. 


subject  of  that  work  of  grace  which  is  now  in 
progress  in  Cairo,  is  the  daughter  of  an  Abys- 
sinian (Ethiopian)  woman. 

It  is  usual  in  the  preface  of  a book  to  say 
something  about  the  critics.  All  I have  to  say 
is,  that  missionaries  who  are  faithful  to  their 
work  must  be  content  to  forego  the  distinction 
of  becoming  literati  in  their  mother  language. 
This  should  be  kept  in  mind  by  those  who  are 
disposed  to  complain  that  missionaries  are  dull 
and  uninteresting  in  their  narratives.  I have  en- 
deavored to  give  a truthful  account,  as  far  as  it 
goes,  of  the  people  of  Egypt,  and  of  the  work  of 
the  Lord  among  them,  and  if  the  critics  wish  to 
break  a shaft  with  me,  it  must  be  on  Arab 
steeds  and  in  the  field  of  Arabic  literature. 

G.  Lansing. 

Lisha’s  Kill,  N.  Y.,  Feb.  12 th,  1864. 


EGYPT’S  PRINCES. 


CHAPTEE  I. 

In  September,  1860,  tlie  Egyptian  Mission  of 
the  United  Presbyterian  Church  of  the  United 
States  put  into  execution  a project,  which  for 
some  time  previous  had  been  entertained,  of 
purchasing  a Nile-boat,  for  facilitating  the  work 
of  the  mission  in  Upper  Egypt.  The  reasons  of 
this  movement  are  briefly  stated  in  the  follow- 
ing extract  of  a letter,  written  from  Alexandria 
to  the  Board  of  Missions  in  Philadelphia,  under 
date  of  September  29th  in  that  year  : 

“1st.  We  were  convinced,  from  the  experi- 
mental trips  which  we  and  other  missionaries 
had  made,  and  the  representations  of  reliable 
men  from  Upper  Egypt,  that  it  offered  us  a mis- 
sionary field  of  great  promise.  The  people 
among  whom  we  are  especially  called  to  labor 
at  present  are  the  Copts,  and  the  Copts  are 
mostly  in  the  Upper  country.  There  are  but 
few  of  them  in  Lower  Egypt,  and  scarcely  any 
in  Alexandria,  except  in  summer,  when  a large 

(11) 


12 


Egypt’s  princes. 


number  of  government  scribes  are  here  with  the 
court ; and  even  in  Cairo  a large  proportion  of 
the  Coptic  sect  is  in  government  employment : 
a very  unfavorable  circumstance  for  our  wor-k, 
as  they  must  sacrifice  their  Sabbath  days ; and 
the  man  whose  interests,  nay,  in  this  case  his 
very  livelihood  (for  these  men  are  fit  for  nothing 
else  but  this  work,  to  which  they  have  been 
trained  from  youth),  force  him,  systematically, 
to  violate  his  conscience  in  any  one  point  of 
known  duty,  is  encased  in  an  armor  of  brass, 
invulnerable  to  the  shafts  of  truth.  But  the 
Copts  of  the  Upper  country  are,  for  the  most 
part,  poor  and  simple-minded  peasants,  and  it  is 
usually  among  the  poor  and  unsophisticated  that 
the  gospel  has  the  freest  course.  They  are,  as 
to  intelligence  and  wealth,  in  social  character 
also,  the  lowest  of  the  eastern  Christian  sects ; 
but  yet  there  are,  in  their  condition,  several 
grounds  of  special  hope.  They  are  a thoroughly 
humbled  race.  The  iron  heel  of  despotism  is, 
and  long  has  been,  upon  their  necks.  From 
your  stand-point  you  may  not  be  prepared  to 
regard  this  as  a ground  of  encouragement ; but 
if  you  had  known,  as  I have,  the  self-sufficient 
pride  and  upstart  vanity  of  young  Syria  (caused 
by  the  spring  and  re-action  of  a too  sudden  de- 
liverance from  despotism),  you  would  under- 
stand what  I mean.  ‘ It  is  not  the  whole,  but 
the  sick,  that  need  a physician.’  Christ  now,  as 


THE  NEED  OP  A BOAT. 


13 


in  the  days  of  his  flesh,  calls  not  the  righteous, 
but  sinners,  to  repentance. 

“ 2d.  They  have  never  enjoyed  (or  rather 
been  cursed  with  and  ruined  by)  a European 
protectorate  ; and  hence  they  do  not  regard,  as 
do  the  Greek  and  Catholic  sects,  Russia  and 
France  as  their  Gods.  Israel  trusted  in  Egypt, 
rather  than  in  God,  and  the  broken  staff  pierced 
their  hands.  Thus  has  it  been  with  the  Chris- 
tian sects  of  Syria ; and  even  now,  in  this  respect, 
they  revolt  more  and  more,  and  we  believe  that 
they  will  therefore  be  stricken  yet  more. 

“ 3d.  They  have,  at  the  same  time  received 
substantial  benefits  from  England  ; and  they  re- 
gard Englishmen  and  Protestants  as  their  friends, 
and  in  a special  manner  us  missionaries,  from  the 
good  service  which  we  have  rendered  them, 
both  by  our  books  and  personal  efforts,  in  re- 
sisting the  proselyting  encroachments  of  the 
Jesuits  and  other  Catholics.  Meshakah’s*  Con- 
troversial Works  are  eagerly  sought  and  read 
by  them.  They  use  them  as  an  armory  against 
Popery,  and  in  the  end  they  find  that  they  have 
undermined  their  own  superstitions. 

“ 4th.  Their  priests  have  never  taken  a stand 

*Dr.  Meshakah  is  a native  of  Syria,  resides  in  Damascus, 
and  is  a member  of  the  United  Presbyterian  Mission  Church 
in  that  city.  He  is  a man  of  rare  abilities  and  worth,  and  is 
the  author  of  several  valuable  works  well  adapted  to  meet  the 
peculiarities  of  the  native  mind. 

2 


14 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


against  the  Bible  as  the  priests  of  the  other 
sects  have ; and  the  extent  to  which  it  has  been 
purchased  and  read  by  them  is,  as  compared 
with  the  other  sects,  remarkable.  This  is  the 
people  to  whom  Providence  is,  for  the  present, 
calling  us  to  direct  our  elforts. 

“ 5th.  We  cannot  undertake  this  work  by  per- 
sonal, permanent  residence  among  them.  Their 
land  is  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  from  Alexandria 
to  Assouan,  a distance  of  seven  hundred  and 
fifty  miles,  and  each  mile  has  its  village  or  vil- 
lages, and  many  of  these  contain  Copts.  To 
occupy  this  field  would  require  an  army  of  mis- 
sionaries, and  you  have  given  us  but  little  hope 
to  expect  so  many  for  some  time  to  come.  While 
in  most  of  the  villages  that  contain  Copts  there 
are  only  a few  families,  or  a few  hundreds  of 
souls,  there  are  only  a few  large  towns  like 
Osiout,  Girgeh,  Esneh  Negadeh,  and  Ekhmim, 
in  each  of  which  there  is  a population  of  a few 
thousands;  but  even  these  we  cannot  attempt 
personally  to  occupy,  for  we  have  not  the  men ; 
-and,  if  we  had  them,  it  is  very  doubtful  whether 
families  could  live  in  the  hot  climate  of  Upper 
Egypt  during  the  summer  season,  and  at  any  rate 
they  could  not  be  sent  there  without  physicians. 
In  this  state  of  the  case,  we  have  concluded  that 
all  we  can  do  for  the  present  is,  to  settle  at  the 
chief  points  as  fast  as  we  can  secure  the  services 
of  reliable  and  trained  men,  schoolmasters  and 


THE  NEED  OF  A BOAT. 


15 


evangelists,  whom  we  must  visit  as  often  as 
practicable,  in  a boat,  during  the  winter  season, 
staying  at  each  place  as  long  as  may  be  possible, 
and  at  the  same  time  visiting  the  unoccupied 
villages,  or  distributing  books,  and  directing  itin- 
erating work.  Thus  we  will  be  able  to  exercise 
a strict  supervision  over  the  men  whom  we  may 
employ,  and  they  will  gather  a nucleus  for  us  in 
the  towns  in  which  they  may  be  placed,  and  in 
other  places  the  way  will  be  prepared  for  more 
permanent  settlement. 

“ 6th.  To  attempt  this  work,  we  needed  a boat 
of  our  own.  Egypt  is  becoming  more  and  more 
every  year  the  sanitarium  of  the  north.  We 
could  only  make  our  trips  in  winter,  and  in  win- 
ter there  are  crowds  of  invalids  and  other  trav- 
elers here,  who  have  raised  the  price  of  boats  to 
from  two  to  three  hundred  dollars  a month,  an 
expense  which  we  could  not  think  of  incurring. 
Nothing  remained  for  us,  if  we  would  under- 
take the  work  which  I have  described,  except  to 
purchase  a boat  for  ourselves. 

, “ 7th.  We  were  induced  to  undertake  this  en- 

terprise now,  because  as  you  have  determined 
to  send  two  more  families  here,  we  feel  that  we 
will  then  have  a sufficient  force,  and  be  in  other 
respects  in  a position  to  undertake  this  work. 

“There  is  another  very  important  considera- 
tion. We  have  no  mountains  here  to  which  we 
can  resort  for  a change  of  climate  in  summer. 


16 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


We  have  found  the  summers,  both  at  Alexandria 
and  Cairo,  very  trying,  especially  for  the  chil- 
dren, and  the  experience  of  the  English  resi- 
dents also  is,  that  they  need  to  spend  every  third 
or  fourth  summer  in  England,  which  we  think 
is  oftener  than  you  will  want  to  see  us.  A 
change  to  a Nile  boat  for  two  or  three  months 
is,  in  a sanitary  point  of  view,  a very  profitable 
one,  and  our  plan  is  to  employ  in  this  Nile 
service  the  invalid  family,  whichsoever  one  it 
may  be. 

“ Such,  briefly,  are  the  grounds  on  which  we 
have  taken  this  new  and  important  step,  and 
Providence  favored  us  with  the  offer  of  a boat 
admirably  suited  to  our  purposes,  and  at  a very 
reasonable  price.  We  purchased  it  of  our 
friends,  Messrs.  Corlett  & Fleming,  of  whose 
kindness,  in  times  past,  in  giving  us  the  use  of 
their  boats  for  short  trips,  when  it  was  not  the 
season  of  travel,  we  have  already  informed  you. 
It  is  an  iron  boat,  called  the  “Ibis,”  eighty- 
three  feet  long  by  twelve  feet  in  the  beam, 
with  three  masts,  a large  cabin,  and  four  state- 
rooms, pantry,  etc.,  in  the  centre,  and  a short 
deck  at  each  end.  We  have  paid  for  it  $>1,500. 
This  is  a large  investment,  and  we  should, 
perhaps,  have  first  asked  your  advice,  and 
made  an  appeal  for  the  money.  As  to  the 
former,  we  were  all  so  fully  convinced  of  the 
wisdom  of  the  measure,  that  we  were  sure  you 


Egypt’s  Princes.  p.  16. 


SEASON  OF  TKAVEL. 


17 


would  approve  of  our  action ; and  as  to  the  lat- 
ter, our  experience  of  the  delays  and  comparative 
failure  of  appeals  has  been  such,  that  we  felt  it 
was  our  duty  to  take  upon  ourselves  personally 
the  pecuniary  responsibility  of  the  enterprise. 
We  have,  therefore,  put  together  our  little  pri- 
vate purses,  and  this  not  being  sufficient,  we 
have  taken  the  liberty  of  making  a draft  upon 
the  “ Building  Fund  ” for  the  balance,  which,  as 
it  has  not  yet  reached  proportions  sufficient  to 
warrant  our  commencing  that  enterprise,  we  are 
not  likely  to  need  for  some  time.  Nor  have 
we  done  this  without  a reasonable  prospect  of 
replacing  the  money.  The  season  of  travel  is 
about  seven  months,  viz.,  from  September  to 
March,  inclusive.  From  two  to  three  months 
are  needed  for  the  trip,  (most  of  the  travelers 
perform  it  in  two,)  so  that  three  trips  can  be 
made  in  a season.  Our  plan  is  to  make  one  trip 
in  early  autumn,  so  as  to  be  back  by  the  last  of 
November,  which  is  the  height  of  the  season  for 
travelers,  and  then  let  it  for  a couple  of  months, 
which  we  can  readily  do  at  the  above-mentioned 
rates.  In  this  way  we  propose  paying  our  debt 
to  the  Building  Fund,  and  after  that  supporting 
the  enterprise;  and,  as  I before  said,  we  have 
taken  the  entire  responsibility.  The  expense  to 
the 'Board  will  be  the  wages  of  the  boatmen, 
about  $50  per  month,  while  the  boat  is  engaged  in 
missionary  tuork,  unless  the  exigencies  of  the 


18 


EGYPT S PRINCES. 


work  should  be  such  as  to  demand  that  we  fore- 
go the  opportunity  of  letting  her  for  a trip  dur- 
ing the  season  of  travel,  when  the  expense  will 
he  heavier. 

“ I have  been  engaged  the  last  week  in  fitting 
her  up  for  her  special  service.  The  bathing 
room  has  been  transformed  into  a book  depot, 
and  in  it  and  in  the  hold  thirteen  large  cases  of 
books  have  been  securely  stowed  away.  I have 
got  made  forms  and  tables  for  two  schools, 
which  we  hope  to  be  able  to  open  at  Osiout  and 
Thebes,  and  next  week  Brother  McCague*  pro- 
poses starting.  I could  say  much  of  the  bright 
prospects  which  this  enterprise  opens  up  to  us, 
but  I prefer  waiting  until  we  can  write  history. 
In  the  meantime  we  ask  your  special  prayers  for 
this  work.” 

Brother  McCague,  who  undertook  this  first 
trip  in  the  “Ibis,”  was  forced  on  reaching  Luxor, 
hastily  to  return  to  Cairo,  on  account  of  the  ill- 
ness of  Mrs.  McCague;  when  it  was  agreed  by 
the  Mission  that  I should  undertake  a second 
trip,  and  the  following  are  the  notes  of  that 
trip : 

I have  long  entertained  a strong  prejudice 
against  “ missionary  reporting.”  While  ready 
to  admit  that  those  who  support  missionaries  in 
foreign  lands  have  a right  to  know  in  general 

* Rev.  Thos.  McCague,  of  Ripley,  Ohio.  He  sailed  from  this 
country  for  the  missionary  work  in  Egypt,  Sept.  30,  1854. 


MISSIONARY  REPORTING. 


19 


how  they  employ  themselves,  and  what  measure 
of  success  they  meet  with — while  I know  too 
that  the  continued  interest  of  many  in  the  good 
work,  and  the  amount  of  support  which  they 
contribute,  depend  in  far  too  great  a measure 
upon  the  success  they  meet  with — and  while  I 
also  know  that  the  continued  interest  of  many  in 
the  good  work,  and  the  amount  of  support  which 
they  contribute,  depend  in  far  too  great  a meas- 
ure on  the  motives  and  incentives  which  may  be 
brought  to  bear  upon  them  from  abroad  and  not 
upon  the  more  solid  foundation  of  Christian  prin- 
ciple, and  the  motives  which  are  furnished  by 
the  love  of  the  Saviour  shed  abroad, in  the  heart, 
and  his  revealed  will  as  our  King  and  Head;  and 
that  taking  human  nature  as  it  is,  it  is  our  duty 
in  a measure  to  fall  in  with  this  desire  ; I still 
feel  that  missionary  reporting  has  been  in  many 
cases  overdone,  and  that  many  evil  consequences, 
both  at  home  and  abroad,  have  resulted. 

I have,  therefore,  seldom  kept  a diary,  and 
still  seldomer  thought  it  prudent  to  send  it 
home  for  publication.  To  keep  one,  however, 
during  our  winter’s  sojourn  in  Upper  Egypt 
was  a necessity.  The  work  was,  in  many  re- 
spects, different  from  the  one  which  we  are  call- 
ed upon  to  undertake  in  our  regular  stations  in 
the  large  cities.  I was  continually  meeting  with 
new  faces,  mingling  in  new  scenes,  and  acquir- 
ing new  and  often  novel  experiences,  and,  much 


20 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


of  the  time,  so  rapid  was  the  change  of  scene, 
that  even  had  I anticipated  a speedy  return  over 
the  same  ground,  the  brief  record  which  I have 
made  of  facts  and  memories  would  have  been 
very  profitable  for  future  direction.  But  since  I 
wdll  probably  be  followed  in  the  work  by  other 
brethren  of  the  mission,  to  leave  such  a record 
of  acquaintances  formed,  and  experiences  ac- 
quire^, of  names  and  facts,  and  statistics,  as  shall 
enable  them  to  begin  where  I have  left  off — to 
soav  where  I have  passed  over,  and  water  what 
I have  sown — to  beware  where  I have  erred,  and 
to  labor  harmoniously  in  carrying  on  that  which 
has  been  well  begun,  and  thus  to  build  upon  the 
foundation  which  (not  I,  but)  the  Lord  has,  I 
trust,  laid  for  a great  and  permanent  revival 
among  the  Copts  of  Upper  Egypt, — becomes 
not  a matter  of  either  vain  glory  or  of  mere  ex- 
pediency— but  a necessity. 

My  notes  were  for  the  most  part  hastily 
sketched  in  pencil  after  the  day’s  work  was  over, 
and  they  are  now  presented  to  the  public  with 
the  hope  that  they  may  be  instrumental  in  excit- 
ing an  increased  interest  in  the  truly  interesting 
field  which  the  Lord  has  opened  for  us  in  Upper 
Egypt,  and  in  securing  that  earnest  prayer  for 
our  success,  and  that  increased  supply  of  men 
and  means  which  we  so  much  need.  • 

Of  the  purchase  of  the  “ Ibis,”  and  of  the  gen- 
eral plan  of  work  which  we  thus  proposed  to 


SETTING  OUT. 


21 


ourselves,  an  account  has  already  been  given. 
Brother  McCague’s  hasty  trip  as  far  as  Luxor  was 
a proof  of  the  wisdom  of  the  step  we  had  taken, 
and  an  earnest  of  still  greater  results  yet  to  be 
hoped  for.  He  was  absent  only  a month  and  a 
few  days,  and  was  then  forced  to  return  so  hast- 
ily, that  he  only  had  time  to  call  at  eight  princi- 
pal places,  and  yet  he  sold  books  to  the  amount 
of  $120,  and  opened  schools  at  Osiout  and  Luxor. 

On  the  day  of  his  return,  (November  8th,)  the 
remains  of  our  little  one  were  buried  from  our 
sight  in  the  cemetery  of  Cairo.  Having  given 
up  our  house  in  Alexandria  to  Mr.  Hogg,  we 
had  been  unable  to  secure  another  suitable  one. 
By  long  continued  attacks  of  ophthalmia,  to- 
gether with  watching  with  our  child,  both  Mrs. 
L.  and  I were  much  reduced  in  health,  and  thus 
Providence  indicated,  and  the  brethren  decided, 
that  we  should  follow  Brother  McCague  in  the 
work  which  he  had  so  well  begun — and  with 
heavy  hearts  we  set  about  the  necessary  prepa- 
rations. 

We  took  with  us  Faris,  a converted  Maronite 
priest,  who  had  come  to  us  well  recommended 
by  the  brethren  at  Beirut,  and  who,  during  a 
few  months’  residence  in  Cairo,  had  proved  him- 
self zealous  and  able  in  the  work  of  the  Gospel. 

We  left  Old  Cairo  on  Wednesday,  the  21st  of 
November,  at  8 o’clock  a.  m.  The  wind  was 
light  at  first,  but  it  soon  became  strong,  and 


22 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


continued  thus  all  day,  of  which  we  were  not 
sorry,  as  there  are  but  few  Copts  residing  be- 
tween Cairo  and  Beni-Souef.  At  the  latter 
place  we  would  gladly  have  stopped,  as  Brother 
McCague  had  left  an  interesting  record  of  ac- 
quaintances formed  there — but  the  wind  was 
fair,  and  in  going  up  the  Nile  the  true  policy  is 
to  stop  only  when  the  wind  fails.  In  coming 
down,  one  has  the  stream  always  in  his  favor, 
which,  with  the  oars  of  his  trusty  crew,  give 
him,  as  it  were,  both  ends  of  the  rope  in  his 
hand,  and  he  can  command  his  movements ; ex- 
cept when  a strong  North  wind  baffles  both  cur- 
rent and  oar : but  in  going  up  he  is  dependent 
upon  the  wind  ; and  if  it  fails,  or  is  contrary,  he 
must  lie  by,  unless  the  men  “ track,”  or  drag  the 
boat  by  a long  rope  from  the  shore,  Avhich  is  so 
slow  and  laborious  a process,  that  I could  sel- 
dom allow  them  to  do  it.  We  passed  Beni- 
Souef  at  midnight. 

22 d.  Awakening  early,  I found  we  were  an- 
chored just  above  Bibbeh.  We  filled  a bag  with 
books,  and  started  np  for  the  town,  inquiring 
our  way  to  the  Coptic  quarter,  which  we  found 
to  be  quite  on  the  north  side  of  the  town,  and  a 
long-before-breakfast  walk.  Faris,  and  Abdallah 
our  servant,  were  praying  for  a “ propitious 
opening”  to  our  work,  to  which,  in  every  great 
undertaking,  the  Arabs  attach  much  importance. 
As  for  myself,  I must  confess  that  I went  with 


THE  FIRST  MISSIONARY  WORK. 


23 


a heavy  and  misgiving  heart.  Indeed,  my  heart 
had  been  buried  in  that  little  grave  in  Cairo,  and' 
I felt  much  more  like  musing  than  working. 
How  prone  is  the  mind,  under  such  circum- 
stances, to  lose  interest  in  transitory  things,  and 
even  in  that  good  work  in  which  our  hands 
should  do  with  their  might  whatever  they  find 
to  do,  and  to  prey  upon  itself.  At  first,  my 
forebodings  seemed  about  to  be  verified.  We 
were  led  to  the  church,  and  in  it  we  found  the 
Kummus.*  He  said  they  were  all  supplied 
with  books,  and  he  was  evidently,  disposed  to 
turn  a cold  shoulder  upon  me  and  my  books. 
All  I could  say,  I could  not  interest  him.  Stun- 
ned and  staggered  as  I had  been  by  the  blow 
of  God,  and  weak  and  faint  with  our  long  walk, 
I was  about  giving  up  in  despair; when  a couple 
of  boys  coming  in,  I told  them  to  run  away  and 
tell  their  parents  and  friends  to  come  for  books, 
and  I sat  down  in  the  court  of  the  church  to  see 
if  any  would  come.  In  a short  time  I was  re- 
joiced to  find  that  twelve  or  fourteen  had  made 
their  appearance,  and  one  of  the  first  who  en- 
tered was  a man  who  almost  snatched  the  book, 
saying,  “ I’ll  take  it  and  spend  my  evenings 
reading  it !”  and  he  kissed  it  and  pressed  it  to 
his  bosom  with  evident  delight.  Soon  after,  an- 
other came  in,  and  taking  a copy,  said  with  an 

* Tho  Kummus  is  the  second  in  order  of  the  Coptic  priest- 
hood, being  boneath  the  bishop  and  above  the  priest. 


24 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


emphasis  which  was  not  feigned,  “ It  is  honey- 
comb ! it  is  honey-comb !”  Another  excited  a 
no  less  deep,  though  a painful  interest.  He  was 
an  aged  and  venerable-looking  man,  and  the 
principal  speaker.  He  said  that  their  religion 
' was  to  fast  when  the  priest  fasted,  and  feast 
when  he  feasted.  When  I opened  the  Testa- 
ment and  read,  he  said  that  the  Kingdom  of  God 
as  likened  to  hid  treasure  was  the  Virgin  Mary, 
and  he  showed  the  low  state  of  morality  in  the 
place  by  making,  in  the  midst  of  the  conversa- 
tion, and  in  the  courts  of  the  Lord’s  house,  and 
before  old  and  young,  an  unblushing  mention  of 
a sin,  with  the  name  of  which  I dare  not  blacken 
this  page. 

We  conversed  with  them  about  an  hour,  and 
I was  much  pleased  with  the  interest  which 
some  of  them  manifested,  and  with  the  skillful 
manner  in  which  Faris  managed  his  part  of  the 
conversation.  When  we  left,  we  found  that  we 
had  sold  but  three  Bibles,  but  the  interest  with 
which  they  listened,  and  the  sad  degradation 
and  ignorance  which  they  manifested  at  once 
encouraged  us,  and  drew  forth  our  sympathies. 
I felt  the  torn  and  entangled  tendrils  of  my  rifted 
heart  interlocking  again  with  this  good  work, 
and  entwining  anew  around  the  poor  people  of 
this  dark  valley,  and  raising  me  up  from  pros- 
tration. 

We  reached  the  boat  at  9 o’clock,  and  inline- 


THE  NILE  BOAT. 


25 


diately  set  sail.  The  Coptic  population  of  Bib- 
beh  is  only  about  forty  taxable  males,  but  we 
were  told  that  there  were  many  more  in  the  sui-- 
roundina:  villages  who  here  attend  church. 
The  church  was  a large  and  fine  one,  recently 
built ; indeed,  not  yet  finished.  They  said  that 
it  had  been  built  by  the  purse  of  St.  George ; 
and  a rude  likeness  of  the  fabulous  cavalier, 
with  his  dragon,  was  carved  above  the  door. 

We  sailed  all  day,  and  at  midnight  passed 
Minyeh,  the  second  “bender,”  or  large  town. 
The  night  was  dark  and  stormy,  and  the  “ Ibis” 
inclined  and  tossed  so  much, as  quite  to  give  us 
the  feeling  of  being  at  sea.  We  found  in  the 
high  wind  the  advantage  of  her  peculiar  rig. 
She  has  three  sails,  the  large  one  being  in  the 
centre,  while  the  native  boats  have  but  two,  the 
large  one  being  quite  in  front.  To  a light  breeze 
they  can  spread  as  much  canvas  as  we  can  ; but, 
under  a heavy  wind,  they  must  lie  by  entirely, 
lest  their  big  sail  should  capsize  them ; while  we 
can  scud  under  our  foresail.  We  passed  a num- 
ber of  Dahabiyehs  containing  travelers,  who  had 
left  Cairo  several  days  before  us,  to  their  no  lit- 
tle mortification. 

23 d.  We  sailed  again  all  day.  During  these 
two  days  I became  much  interested  in  reading 
Syriac  with  Faris,  in  which  I found  him  an  ac- 
complished scholar.  He  could  correct  the  vow- 
eling  of  the  Bible  Society’s  edition  of  the  Pesh- 
3 


26 


Egypt’s  princes. 


ito,  and  give  the  grammatical  reasons  for  his 
suggestions. 

Thus  to  fly  along  under  full  sail  is  most  de- 
lightful and  exhilarating.  The  only  drawback 
was  that  Mrs.  L.  had  been  suffering  since  we  left 
Cairo  under  a severe  attack  of  neuralgia,  which 
made  us  fear  that  we,  too,  might  be  forced,  like 
Brother  McCague,  to  turn  back. 

We  reached  Osiout  at  eleven  o’clock  at  night, 
having  been  just  sixty-three  hours  from  Cairo, 
including  seven  hours  of  stoppage  at  Bibbeh. 
The  distance  is  254  miles  ! 

As  Osiout  is  the  largest  and  most  important 
town  in  Upper  Egypt,  I will  leave  the  narrative 
of  what  took  place  in  it  for  another  chapter. 


DONKEY  BOY. 


CHAPTER  II. 

. O.nout,  21  th  November.  Taking  a hasty  break- 
fast, Faris  and  I secured  donkeys,  and  started 
up  to  the  town,  which,  unlike  most  other  large 
towns,  is  not  on  the  river’s  bank,  but  about  a 
mile  and  a half  inland.  The  road  to  it  is  over  a 
raised  cause-way  or  dyke,  called  in  Arabic  a jisr, 
(bridge,)  which  keeps  the  communication  with 
the  river  open,  even  in  the  time  of  the  inunda- 
tion. These  ‘‘ jisrs ” are  very  common  all  through 
the  valley  of  the  Nile ; they  are  from  six  to  ten 
feet  high,  and  serve  for  roads  between  the  vil- 
lages, as  well  as  to  detain  for  irrigation  the 
waters  which  by  the  inundation  and  the  canals 
are  distributed  over  the  land.  The  building  and 
keeping  of  these  in  repair,  as  well  as  the  digging 
of  the  canals,  is  a great  slavery  for  the  poor 
fellaheen.*  The  ride  up  to  the  town  is  delightful, 
amidst  green  fields,  and  luxuriant  fruit  gardens. 
The  gate  of  the  town  presents  one  of  the  best 
specimens  I have  seen  of  the  oriental  institution 
of  “the  gate.”  Within  it  is  a fine  open  space, 
shaded  by  a few  large  lebbekh  trees,  and  on 
either  side  are  the  Government  offices  and 

* The  common  people. 

(27) 


28 


EGYPT’S  PRINCES. 


court  rooms,  occupied  by  gaudily  dressed, 
portly  Turks,  and  lean,  Coptic  scribes  in  black. 
These  are  the  “ Elders  sitting  in  the  gate.”  Oh, 
when  in  all  the  cities  of  this  land,  shall  the  walls 
be  salvation,  and  the  gates  praise  ? Then,  when 
that  Church  shall  be  established  against  which 
the  gates  of  hell  shall  not  prevail  ? 

We  found  our  way  up  to  the  house  of  Wasef\ 
who  is  the  American  Consular  Agent  and  a 
Copt,  and,  after  making  our  call  of  ceremony, 
went  to  the  school,  where  we  found  Ibrahim,  the 
teacher  who  had  been  left  by  Mr.  McCague. 
There  were  but  five  boys  in  the  school,  but  we 
were  pleased  to  find  him  at  his  post,  and  busy, 
especially  as  it  was  Saturday,  when  neither  his 
contract  nor  the  example  of  our  school  in  Cairo, 
which  he  had  attended,  obliged  him  to  teach, 
and  he  had  no  previous  notice  of  our  coming. 

I must  here  go  back  a little,  and  bring  up  the 
history  of  this  movement.  When  Brother  Mc- 
Cague came  with  a teacher,  a number  of  the 
leading  Copts,  and  also  the  Bishop,  manifested 
a good  deal  of  joy  in  the  prospect  of  having  a 
School ; and  the  Bishop  furnished  a school  room. 
But  he  had  scarcely  left  when  the  “ Areefs ,”  (the 
blind  schoolmasters,)  whose  influence  with  the 
people  is  in  many  places  even  greater  than  that 
of  the  priesthood,  took  the  alarm  lest  their  trade 
of  teaching,  (not  the  young  ideas  how  to  shoot, 
but  the  young  throats  how  to  shout — viz.,  the 


THE  BLIND  SCHOOLMASTERS. 


29 


psalms  and  dead  Coptic  prayers,)  together  with 
their  small,  resultant  gains,  should  be  cut  off, 
and,  accordingly,  they  set  themselves  to  crush 
the  school  in  the  bud.  The  Bishop  is  an  old 
man,  more  noted  for  his  monkish  austerities  than 
his  powers  of  government,  and  the  Areefs  easily 
persuaded  him  to  take  their  view  of  the  subject, 
and  call  a meeting  of  the  sect,  at  which  the 
Areefs,  with  all  the  vociferous  clamor  for  which 
they  are  noted,  insisted  on  expelling  Ibrahinq 
with  his  new-fangled  school  books  and  apparatus 
from  the  town.  This  would  have  been  done, 
except  that  the  Consul  and  a few  of  the  “pillars” 
of  the  people,  the  parents  of  the  five  children, 
interposed  their  veto,  and  so  it  was  decided  to 
write  to  the  patriarch  on  the  subject,  asking  his 
opinion,  and  requesting  of  him  a teacher  of  a 
class  superior  to  the  Areefs.  This  request  they 
had  made  some  time  before,  and  he  had  declined 
acceding  to  it,  and  they  now  agreed  that  if  he 
did  not  send  one,  they  would  support  our  school. 
His  answer  had  not  yet  come,  though  ample 
time  had  elapsed ; but  it  was  easy  to  foretell 
what  it  would  be,  as  to  the  general  question  of 
supporting  our  school,  whatever  he  might  do  in 
sending  another  teacher.  The  Patriarch,  elevated 
to  his  seat  by  the  influence  of  the  English  Consul 
at  Cairo,  and  in  spite  of  the  strong  opposition 
of  Abbas  Pasha,  who  was  then  on  the  throne, 
had  forgotten  the  Protestantism  which  he  pro- 


30 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


fessed  while  yet  a monk,  and  violating  the 
pledges  of  reforming  the  Church  which  he  had 
then  taken,  had  recently  been  guilty  of  various 
acts  of  opposition  to  our  cause,  and  petty  per- 
secutions of  Protestants ; and  it  was,  therefore, 
easy  to  divine  what  his  decision  would  be.  I 
saw  that  a heavy  cloud  was  gathering,  nay, 
had  already  descended  upon  our  infant  move- 
ment there,  and  as  Ibrahim  was  young  and  in- 
'experienced,  I determined  to  leave  Faris  to  take 
the  helm  and  endeavor  to  outride  the  storm.  I 
had  hoped  to  be  able  to  take  him  with  me  to  assist 
in  the  work  of  book  distribution,  and  to  pursue 
with  him  my  Syriac,  but  I saw  that  it  was  more 
necessary  that  he  should  remain. 

In  the  mean  time,  I did  all  I could  to  prepare 
the  minds  of  those  whom  I met  for  the  Pa- 
triarch’s answer,  and  I found  the  occasion  a very 
opportune  one,  for  the  Patriarch  had  just  sent 
his  agents  to  levy  on  the  sect  a heavy  tax  to 
assist  in  building  the  new  church,  which  he  had 
recently  commenced  in  Cairo.  This  “ scheme1'' 
was  already  a very  unpopular  one  with  the  peo- 
ple, and  it  did  not  help  it  any  when  I told  them 
that  I had  been  credibly  informed  before  leaving 
Cairo,  that  he  had  sent  to  ^Europe  an  order  for 
25,000  piasters*  worth  of  images  for  the  new 
church,  (the  Coptic,  like  the  Greek  Church,  does 
not  use  images,  but  only  pictures.)  The  Copts, 

* A coin  about  Si  cents  in  value  in  Egypt,  and  4i  in  Syria. 


COPTIC  CHURCHES. 


31 


besides,  have  never  been  accustomed  to  the  ex- 
pense of  building,  nor  the  luxury  of  worshipping 
in  marble  cathedrals.  Their  churches  are  all 
very  plain,  and  they  are  strongly  possessed  of 
the  primitive  (not  present,)  Wesleyan  notion, 
that  this  best  befits  the  simplicity  of  the  gospel, 
and  I found  they  had  most  extravagant  reports 
of  the  thickness  of  the  walls,  and  the  costliness 
of  the  materials  of  the  Patriarch’s  new  Cathedral 
in  Cairo.  Human  nature,  too,  is  everywhere  the* 
same,  and  I found  them  very  ready  to  listen  to  me  in 
a matter  in  which  their  pockets  were  concerned. 
They  were  greatly  scandalized  by  another  fact, 
of  which  I informed  them.  The  Patriarch  had 
recently  set  up,  Avith  the  money  of  the  sect,  a 
printing-press,  when,  sending  for  one  of  the 
beautiful  reference  testaments  of  the  Beirut 
press,  he  asked  at  Avhat  price  the  Americans 
sold  it,  and  when  told  at  13  piasters,  he  said  we 
will  leave  the  printing  of  Bibles  to  them  ; Ave  can- 
not print  them  at  that  price — and  the  first  book 
he  undertook  to  print  Avas,  “ the  Story  of  Antar,” 
— a vile  Mahommedan  novel,  which  is  read  in 
the  Cafes.  Word  had  also  reached  us  at  Cairo 
a few  days  before,  that  at  Bosh,  (near  Benisouef,) 
where  he  was  at  that  time,  he  had  prohibited  tho 
people  from  buying  Bibles  from  Lord  Haddo,  (a 
step  for  Avhicli  the  Coptic  Church  is  not  yet  at  all 
prepared ;)  I told  them  that  the  ansAver  which  they 
Avould  probably  receive  from  his  Holiness  Avould 


32 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


be,  that  they  must  neither  receive  our  books  nor 
our  teachers,  but  must  wait  until  his  edition  of 
Antar  should  be  published,  and  that  then  he 
would  send  a quantity  of  them,  together  with  a 
teacher  to  teach  their  children  to  read  them. 

They  fully  felt  and  admitted  the  force  of  these 
things,  and  much  more  that  I said ; but,  alas ! 
the  Copts  generally  are  fully  persuaded  that  tho 
priests,  however  ignorant,  or  perverse,  or  de- 
graded they  may  be,  are  yet  the  vicegerents  of 
God,  and  hold  the  keys  of  the  kingdom  of 
heaven;  and,  until  convinced  of  the  contrary,  they 
may  despise,  but  they  will  still  obey  the  priesthood. 

25th,  Sabbath.  Having  been  invited  by  the 
Consul,  Fai’is  and  I went  up  to  his  house  and 
spent  the  day.  He  had  provided  an  abundant 
dinner  for  us,  which  we  would  have  enjoyed 
more  had  it  been  on  another  day.  We  spent 
most  of  the  day  in  religious  discussion  and  in- 
struction, and  trust  good  was  done,  although 
most  of  the  time  only  three  persons  were  pres- 
ent. We  went  to  call  on  the  Bishop,  but  he 
was  not  in,  for  which  we  were  not  sorry.  On  a 
pillar  in  the  court  of  his  house  a notice  wa? 
posted,  indicative  of  the  state  of  morality  among 
the  Copts.  With  many  apologies  for  the  appa- 
rent breach  of  the  established  usages  of  society, 
it  informed  guests  that  arrack  could  not  be  fur- 
nished them  when  they  called. 

On  our  way  back  to  the  boat  we  met  Bakhtor, 


THE  FIRST  TEACHER. 


33 


and  here,  again,  I must  return  to  bring  up  the 
thread  of  the  history.  Bakhtor  is  a priest,  who 
five  years  ago  when  I first  came  to  Alexandria, 
[used  to  come  to  us  on  Fridays,  with  some  other 
Copts,  for  instruction.  He  has  lately  spent  most 
of  his  time  in  Cairo,  and  been  under  instruction 
with  the  brethren  there.  He  had  been  truly 
enlightened  in  the  knowledge  of  the  truth,  and 
was  convinced;  while  at  the  same  time  it  was 
evident  that  he  was  not  very  brave  or  decided 
in  its  profession.  He  is  one  of  those  timid 
spirits,  who  are  made  for  peaceful  times.  He, 
however,  offered  to  labor  for  us  in  Osiout.  His 
native  village,  Benoub,  is  near  this  place,  and  as 
he  there  has  some  little  property,  we  agreed  to  sup- 
plement his  livelihood  by  a salary  of  four  dollars  per 
month,  and  so  he  came  up  with  Brother  McCague. 
When  the  Areefs  raised  their  little  storm,  he 
feared  and  fled — at  least  he  made  an  excuse 
to  go  to  Benoub,  his  native  village,  and  Mr. 
McCague,  on  his  return  from  Luxor,  on  finding 
him  absent  without  sufficient  reasons,  left  word 
with  the  Consul,  that  we  should  no  longer  con- 
sider him  in  our  employment.  He  was  just 
now  returning,  and  our  meeting  him  was  very 
providential.  He  immediately  saddled  his  ass, 
and  followed  us  down  to  the  boat,  and  I heard  his 
explanation  of  his  leaving.  It  appeared  that  he 
had  better  reason  for  going  than  we  had  thought, 
and,  besides,  he  had  labored  under  certain  little 


34 


Egypt’s  princes. 


misunderstandings,  into  which  I need  not  now 
enter.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  I was  satisfied 
with  his  explanations,  and  told  him  that  if  he 
would  resume  work,  (colporteuring  and  talking 
with  the  people  in  Osiout  and  the  surrounding 
villages,)  I would  pay  him  his  wages  on  my 
return,  to  which  he  agreed.  I spent  the  even- 
ing in  conversation  and  prayer,  with  him  and 
Faris,  and  Ibrahim,  endeavoring  to  prepare  them 
for  the  work  and  the  trouble  which  I foresaw 
here  in  store  for  them. 

2 Qlh.  We  hoped  here  to  have  overtaken  Lord 
Haddo,  (since  Lord  Aberdeen,)  who  had  left 
Cairo  thirteen  days  before  us  ; but  those  thirteen 
days  had  been  days  of  prevailing  south  wind, 
and  we  were  sorry  to  learn,  on  inquiring  from 
other  boats  coming  down,  that  we  must  have 
passed  him  in  the  night  at  Minyeh.  As  his  Lord- 
ship’s name  will  hereafter  be  much  connected 
with  this  journal,  and  as  we  are  much  indebted  to 
him  for  his  zealous  co-operation  and  assistance 
through  the  winter,  I may  as  well  at  once  gratify 
the  desires  of  an  innocent  curiosity,  by  saying,  that 
being  a great  invalid,  he  had  come  out  from  Great 
Britain  to  spend  the  winter  in  Egypt  for  the  bene- 
fit of  his  health,  and  that  unlike  many  Christian 
travelers,  he  had  brought  his  Christianity  with 
him,  and  was  anxious  to  do  all  he  could  for  the 
promotion  of  the  Master’s  cause,  and  especially 
in  the  work  of  Bible  distribution. 


A CHRISTIAN  LORD. 


35 


He  had  taken  from  us  at  Alexandria,  a quan- 
tity of  Scriptures  and*  publications,  of  the  Beirut 
press,  and  I had  a further  supply  for  him  on 
board  the  “ Ibis,”  which  he  had  ordered  before 
leaving.  We  had  also  given  him  Father  Mak- 
hiel,  a converted  Coptic  priest,  to  act  as  col- 
porteur. He  had  invited  me  before  leaving 
Alexandria,  to  come  up  in  mid-winter,  and  spend 
a month  with  him  in  the  work,  but  there  was 
then  but  little  prospect  that  I would  be  able  to 
do  so ; and,  of  course,  he  was  not  aware  of  our 
present  undertaking.  I was  anxious  to  see  him, 
in  order  to  deliver  the  books  which  I had 
brought,  and  to  arrange  our  plans  for  future 
work  ; but  he  had  not  yet  come,  and  might  not 
for  several  days,  and  as  we  did  not  wish  to  lose 
so  much  time,  we  could  only  leave  a note  and 
proceed  on  our  journey.  His  lordship  having 
been  received  as  the  guest  of  the  government, 
a fine  large  Daliabiyeh*  had  been  placed  at  his 
disposal  by  the  Viceroy,  who  in  such  matters  is 
most  liberal.  He  had  also  given  him  a firman 
to  all  the  sub-governors  in  the  Upper  country  to 
treat  him  as  became  the  royal  guest.  This,  it 
will  be  seen  in  the  sequel,  greatly  facilitated  our 
work  in  many  places,  and  gave  to  it  a prestige 
which  it  could  not  otherwise  have  had ; but,  on 
the  other  hand,  it  was  not  without  its  disadvan- 
tages. We  have  always  found  it  best  to  do  our 


* Nile-boat. 


36 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


work  as  humbly  and  quietly  as  possible ; and 
thus,  as  far  as  possible,  avoid  attracting  the 
public  attention.  “ He  hath  chosen  the  weak 
things  of  the  world  to  confound  the  mighty.” 
u The  kingdom  of  God  cometh  not  with  observa- 
tion.” 

We  bade  adieu  to  our  friends  and  left  Osiont, 
at  9 a.  m.  The  wind  was  light,  and  at  2 r.  m., 
just  as  we  were  at  dinner,  it  failed  us  altogether 
opposite  Abutij.  We  took  this  as  a providen- 
tial indication  that  we  must  stop,  and  I sent 
Abdallah  and  one  of  the  sailors  up  with  a basket 
of  books.  After  dinner  I attempted  to  follow 
them,  but  a canal  between  the  river  and  the 
town  made  a long  detour  necessary,  and,  after 
walking  about  half  an  hour,  a severe  headache 
warned  me  to  beware  of  sun-stroke,  and  I re- 
turned. Several  of  the  people,  however,  came 
down,  and  I sold  them  a number  of  books.  Ab- 
dallah soon  came  back,  when,  on  making  our 
accounts,  we  found  that  we  had  sold  books  to 
the  amount  of  about  $15.  They  told  us  there 
were  4,000  Christians  in  Abutij,  and  some  of 
those  who  came  to  the  boat  to  purchase  said 
they  were  from  Ez-arabeh  ; a place  some  dis- 
tance inland  not  put  down  on  the  map,  in  which 
they  said  there  were  also  4,000  Christians,  but 
that  they  had  no  church  : th.e  Moslems  would  not 
allow  them  to  build.  One  of  those  who  called, 
I am  sorry  to  say,  asked  for  arrack  before  leav- 


SELLING  BOOKS. 


37 


ing,  and  Abdallah  found,  on  counting  his  books, 
on  his  return,  that  two  or  three  of  the  smaller 
ones*  were  missing,  having  been  stolen  in  the 
crowd  and  confusion  with  which  he  was  sur- 
rounded while  selling  in  the  town.  We  left 
again  at  half-past  G r.  m. 

27 th  and  28 th.  Winds  light  and  varying  most 
of  the  time,  but  still  fair,  and  tve  made  no  stop. 

29 th.  At  8 a.  m.,  opposite  Ekhmim,  where 
we  would  gladly  have  spent  a little  time,  as  it  is 
one  of  the  largest  Christian  towns  in  the  coun- 
try ; but  the  wind  was  fair,  and  we  pressed  on. 

Reached  Ghinneh  at  sunset,  and  just  after  a 
heavy  rain-cloud  appeared  over  the  eastern  hills. 
The  wind  suddenly  went  down,  and  it  became 
very  warm  and  sultry  for  a time,  which  was  fol- 
lowed by  a smart  shower  of  rain.  The  north 
wind  was  piercing  and  cold  all  night. 

30 th.  Went  up  to  Ghinneh  at  8 A.  M.  Though 
thickly  clad,  I think  I have  never  before,  in 
Egypt,  suffered  more  severely  from  cold  than  in 
the  ride  up  to  the  town,  which  is  about  a mile 
i from  the  river. 

' As  I had  by  mistake  written  Negadeh  on  the 
list  of  books  left  here  by  Brother  McCague  for 
sale,  I was  not  aware  that  he  had  left  any ; and 
as  one  of  our  sailors  said  he  had  gone  to  the 
Dewan  and  sold  books,  I concluded  to  try  the 
church,  and  gave  orders  to  the  donkey-boys  ac- 
cordingly. They  took  us  through  many  winding 
4 


38 


Egypt’s  princes. 


streets  to  the  farther  side  of  the  village,  when 
we  were  brought  to  a stand  at  the  door  of  ivhat 
they  said  was  the  church,  beside  which,  unfler  a 
shed,  we  found  an  Areef,  with  nine  urchins. 
He  started  to  bring  the  keys  of  the  church,  but 
we  stopped  him,  and,  after  some  preliminaries, 
told  him  that  we  wished  to  sell  books,  and  asked 
him  where  the  priest  was,  or  the  men  of  the  sect, 
who  would  buy.  He  said  the  priest  was  at  Far- 
shoot,  and  the  people  scattered  about  through 
the  town  at  their  work ; but  that  if  we  would 
leave  the  books  with  him  till  over  Sabbath,  he 
and  they  would  see  them,  when  they  came  to 
the  church,  and  might  buy.  At  the  same  time 
he  looked  over  the  title-pages  of  the  books,  and 
remarked,  “All  from  one  press,  all  from  Lon- 
don.” This  smacked  of  Rome,  and  aroused  my 
suspicions,  and  a few  leading  questions  brought 
out  the  following  facts,  viz. : that  this  was  the 
church  and  school  of  the  Coptic  papal  church ; 
that  the  sect  consisted  of  one  hundred  souls  (I 
( was  afterwards  informed  that  this  was  a large 
story),  and  that  the  absent  priest  was  an  Italian , 
to  see  whom  I made  no  promise  of  remaining 
over  Sabbath.  As  the  Areef  had  his  eyes  on 
the  books,  he  was  turning  on  a little  foot-lathe, 
preparing  beads  for  the  sect,  which  gave  employ- 
ment to  his  hands,  eyes  and  feet,  while  his  mind 
(no,  that  was  sold  to  Rome),  his  ear  was  engaged 
in  hearing  the  sing-song  repetitions  of  the  pupils 


A COPTIC  SCHOOL. 


39 


of  Coptic  prayers,  to  him,  and  to  them,  unintel- 
ligible ; yes,  dead  Coptic  prayers  ! Oh,  Rome  ! 
true  is  thy  boasted  “ semper  et  ubique  eadem ,”  for 
dead  Coptic  in  Ghinneh  is  the  same  as  dead  Latin 
in  the  rest  of  the  world.  Only  thy  motto  might 
better  have  been,  “ Always  and  everywhere, 
anything  anything  that  will  take  with  the  peo-1 
pie ; anything  that  will  deaden  the  intellect  and 
crush  the  soul,  and  further  thy  selfish  ends. 

We  gathered  up  our  books  and  left.  On  our 
way  back,  Es-seyed,  one  of  our  sailors  who  had 
accompanied  Brother  McCague,  said  that  he  had 
left  books  to  be  sold,  with  a man  in  the  city,  and 
so  we  threaded  our  way  through  the  intricate 
streets  to  his  shop,  which  Ave  found  in  the  main 
bazaar.  This  man’s  name  was  Ibrahim,  a deacon, 
and  evidently  a nice,  intelligent,  young  man.  As 
he  had  only  Bibles  and  catechisms,  and  I had 
other  kinds  of  the  Beirut  publications,  I took 
my  seat  beside  him  in  his  little  shop,  and  hailing 
every  man  Avith  a black  turban*  who  passed,  Ave 
sold  during  the  forenoon  to  the  amount  of  220 
piasters,  which,  added  to  the  430  piasters  Avhich 
he  had  sold  of  the  books  left  by  Brother  Mc- 
Cague, made  650  piasters  in  all.  Good  business, 
this. 

After  securing  a stock  of  vegetables  and  other 

* The  different  classes  of  the  people  are  indicated  by  the 
color  of  the  turban.  The  Copt  wears  black,  the  Moslem  white, 
and  a descendant  of  the  Prophet  green. 


40 


EGYPT’S  PRINCES. 


necessaries  from  the  well-stocked  market,  we 
went  down  to  the  boat.  The  brother  of  the 
French  Consular  agent  and  a number  of  others 
accompanied  us,  and  we  had  with  them  an 
interesting  conversation.  Having  heard  of  our 
schools  in  Osiout  and  Luxor,  they  urged  us  very 
strongly  to  establish  one  here  also,  which  I think 
we  should  do  as  soon  as  possible,  as  this  is  a 
large  and  important  place. 

I saw  very  few  signs  of  that  licentiousness 
which  travelers  take  so  much  pains  to  describe. 
Only  in  one  street  I saw  a few  of  the  Gliawaze * 
sitting  at  their  doors. 

As  Ibrahim  was  about  to  shut  his  shop  and 
remove  to  Erment,  to  accept  a situation  as  secre- 
tary in  the  sugar  factory  there,  I took  the  books 
which  he  had  remaining,  and  closed  accounts 
with  him,  of  the  necessity  for  which  I was  very 
sorry,  as  he  had  evidently  done  his  work  well 
and  faithfully. 

The  Coptic  sect  in  Ghinneh  numbers  between 
4,000  and  5,000.  They  have  no  church,  but  are 
forced  to  go  to  Denderah  to  worship,  which  is 
full  five  miles  distant,  and  on  the  other  side  of 
the  river.  During  the  time  of  the  inundation, 
they  can  often  scarcely  get  there  at  all.  This  is 
a great  hardship,  but  it  is  the  law  of  the  land 
that  no  church  shall  be  built  without  a special 
permit  from  the  Government,  and  it  usually  re 

* Dancing  girls. 


COPTS  IN'  GHINNEH. 


41 


quires  a great  deal  of  bribery  and  influence  to 
obtain  one,  and  the  Muslems  in  the  place  in 
which  the  church  is  proposed  to  be  built,  usually 
interpose  as  many  obstacles  as  they  can.  They 
told  me  a long  and  sad  story  of  the  efforts  which 
they  had  made  for  a long  series  of  years  to  ob- 
tain a permit.  As  far  back  as  the  days  of  Mo- 
hammed Ali,  they  had  by  some  means  procured 
one,  and  commenced  building,  when  the  Muslem 
Sheikhs  arose  and  said  that  Ghinneh  was  one  of 
the  stations  of  the  holy  Haj  (many  of  the  pil- 
grims come  up  the  3Sf ile  as  far  as  this,  and  then 
cross  over  to  dossier  on  the  Red  sea,  and  so  to 
Mecca,)  and  that  it  could  not  be  polluted  by  a 
Christian  church.  Both  parties  represented 
their  cause  to  Mohammed  Ali,  and  he  at  length 
decided  that  the  walls  which  had  been  raised 
should  be  torn  down,  but  that  the  Christians 
should  be  refunded  the  expenses  which  they  had 
incurred  in  building  from  the  public  treasury! 
Here,  you  will  say,  was  “even-handed  justice,” 
in  the  midst  of  the  grossest  injustice ; for  why 
should  the  Christians  not  be  permitted  to  build 
wherever  they  have  the  land,  and  the  means,  and 
the  power  to  do  so  ? But  alas ! you  know  little 
of  the  spirit  of  Islam.  The  Catholics,  however, 
have  a church,  the  permission  to  build  having 
been  secured  by  the  French  Consul,  and  in  this 
they  possess  a great  vantage  ground  for  proselyt- 
ing from  the  Copts,  and  yet  they  have  succeeded 
4* 


42 


Egypt’s  princes. 


very  poorly.  The  more  I see  of  the  Copts,  and 
learn  of  their  history,  the  more  I admire  the 
constancy  with  which  they  have  withstood  for 
ages  the  persecutions  and  annoyances  of  the 
Muslem  power,  and  of  late  years  the  machina- 
tions of  Rome  also.  I often  wonder  that  the 
very  name  and  every  trace  of  Christianity  have 
not  long  since  been  swept  from  the  land.  It 
would  have  been  so,  but  that  the  Copts  are  a 
most  constant,  earnest  people.  Truly  they  de- 
serve our  deepest  sympathies  and  earnest  pray- 
ers, and  in  reference  to  this  matter  of  church 
building,  the  Consuls  of  the  Christian  powers 
should  unite  to  insist  on  the  removal  of  the 
present  restrictions ; and  were  they  to  do  so,  I 
am  confident  they  would  succeed.  But  alas ! 
too  many  of  them  have  their  own  private  ends 
to  compass  with  the  Government. 

We  set  sail  at  2 p.  m. 

December  1st  Found  on  awakening  that  we 
were  becalmed  on  the  western  bank.  Took  a 
cup  of  coffee,  and  started  out  for  a morning’s 
walk.  On  reaching  the  top  of  the  bank,  I saw 
the  ruins  of  the  temple  of  Karnak,  (the  most 
Northern  of  the  Theban  temples,)  and  yet,  the 
wind  being  south,  and  the  course  of  the  river  very 
tortuous,  our  poor  men  toiled  against  the  heavy 
current  until  4 p.  m.,  ere  reaching  Luxor.  The 
day  was  bright  and  calm,  and  the  temperature 
delightful — the  first  day  we  had  which  at  all 


APPROACH  TO  LUXOR. 


43 


met  my  ideas  of  the  Egyptian  climate.  All  the 
way  from  Cairo  we  had  had  it  most  uncom- 
fortably cold,  and  especially  at  night ; the  differ- 
ence between  the  temperature  by  day  and  by 
night  surprising  me — the  night  being  very  cold, 
and  even  by  day  the  winds  were  raw  and  pinch 
ing,  having  a strong  smell  of  Alexandria  and 
the  sea  in  them.  But  to-day,  all  was  mild, 
and  genial,  and  bright — and  as  we  sat  on  the 
deck,  winding  amidst  the  historic  scenes  and 
classic  ruins  of  ancient  Thebes,  it  was  a time  for 
sentiment  and  poetic  musing — but  I will  spare 
my  readers.  My  business  is  with  modern— not 
ancient — Egypt ; with  its  moral  ruins,  aud  not 
its  pictured  tombs  and  stately  temples.  These 
latter  have  been  a thousand  times  described  by 
others  who  have  leisure  and  talent  for  the  task — 
and  who  can  see  in  them  all,  and  much  more, 
than  I can  to  admire.  One  sound  touched  my 
heart  more  than  all  the  voices  coming  down 
from  antiquity.  It  was  the  song  of  the  turtle- 
doves in  the  acacia  groves  on  the  banks.  This 
has  always  been  to  me  a most  affecting  song. 
It  speaks  of  the  condescension  of  our  God. 
Under  the  Jewish  economy,  the  poor  believer 
who  could  not  bring  his  bullock  or  goat  was 
directed  to  bring  two  turtle-doves,  or  two 
young  pigeons,  to  be  offered  on  the  altar  of  his 
God  as  a sacrifice  dor  his  sins.  It  was  the  poor 
man’s  offering.  In  almost  every  grove,  and  often 


44 


Egypt’s  princes. 


in  the  courts  of  the  houses,  these  doves  may  be 
found  in  abundance,  so  that  they  were  always 
accessible,  and  no  man  could  plead  excuse  for 
wanting  an  offering.  They  are  usually  seen  in 
pairs,  and  the  mates  are  seldom  far  apart,  and 
the  plaintive  ditty  with  Avhich  the  day  long  they 
respond  to  each  other,  always  brings  to  my 
mind  a sentence  which  it  not  a little  resembles 
in  length  and  division  of  sound—' '■'■Unto  the  poor 
the  gospel  is  preached.”  Before  we  had  left 
Cairo,  a friend  had  given  Mrs.  Lansing  a pair 
of  Meccan  doves,  which  not  a little  resemble 
the  turtle-dove,  only  that  it  is  often  pure  white, 
with  a black  ring  around  the  neck.  Their  song 
is  also  shorter,  and  the  Muslems  fancy  that  it 
resembles  the  words — “ Fa  Kareem ,”  (Oh,  most 
merciful  One,) — and  hence  they  call  them  Ka- 
reemies,  and  esteem  them  much.  But  our  poor 
male  bird  had  been  killed  by  some  evil  cat  which 
had  found  her  way  to  the  deck  of  the  boat  the 
night  we  were  in  Ghinneh,  and  the  mate  was 
now  sitting  disconsolate  and  with  ruffled  feath- 
ers, mourning  her  loss.  There  are  voices  in 
nature  which  speak  most  touchingly  to  the  soul. 
But  oh,  how  often  we  are  forced  to  feel  that 
there  is  in  our  hearts  a sad  want  of  harmony  and 
unison  with  them ! 

As  we  neared  Luxor,  the  men  and  boys,  re- 
cognizing our  boat,  flocked  down  to  the  shore 
to  meet  us.  I went  up  with  them  to  Monsur’s 


LUXOR. 


45 


room,  but  did  not  find  him  in.*  He  had  taken 
advantage  of  his  Saturday’s  vacation  in  the  school 
to  go  over  to  see  the  ruins  on  the  other  side. 
The  Bishop,  however,  soon  came  down,  and  in- 
vited me  up  to  his  house.  It  consists  of  three 
rooms  on  the  roof  of  the  church,  and  a fine 
view  is  obtained  from  it  of  the  ruins  of  Karnak, 
and  the  magnificent  plain  of  Thebes.  The  valley 
of  the  Nile  is  here  very  wide,  and  clothed  as  it 
is  in  the  richest  green,  and  thickly  dotted  with 
clumps  of  acacias  and  palms,  marking  the  posi- 
tions of  hamlets  and  water-wheels,  Avith  here 
and  there  the  columns  and  gateAvays  of  the 
ancient  city  tOAvering  above  all,  and  enclosed  in 
the  distance  by  the  yeiloAV  Arabian  and  Lybian 
hills,  Avhich,  at  sunset,  would  gloAV  like  a frame- 
Avork  of  burnished  gold,  it  Avas  a most  charm- 
ing picture — one  which  I could  never  weary  with 
admiring. 

Monsur  soon  came,  and  our  coffee  having  been 
finished,  the  Bishop  took  us  doAvn  to  the 
church.  ITe  himself  has  built  it,  mostly  by  the 
aid  of  donations  received  from  the  travelers  to 
whom,  during  the  Avinter  season,  Thebes  is  the 
great  centre  of  attraction.  It  is  a large  and 
solid  building,  with  tAVO  rows  of  pillars  in  the 
midst  supporting  a raised  roof,  through  the  win- 

* ITe  is  a teacher  whom  Brother  McCague  had  left  here.  He 
is  a Syrian,  a graduate  of  Abeih  Seminary,  and  a very  p^- 
mising  young  man. 


46 


EGYPT’S  PRINCES. 


dows  of  which  light  is  admitted.  A raised  place 
in  the  back  part — about  one-third  of  the  whole 
area  — constitutes  the  women’s  department, 
though  it  has  not  yet  been  partitioned  off  by  the 
usual  lattice-work  screen.  Here  I was  happy  to 
find  the  school  forms  which  I had  had  made 
before  Brother  McCague  left  Cairo  ; but  was 
sorry  to  find  that  the  native  carpenter  had  made 
a very  bungling  hand  of  setting  them  up. 
Brother  McCague  had  established  the  school  in 
the  house  of  the  Prussian  Consular  agent,  who 
is  a Copt,  and  who  at  Cairo  had  offered  us  a 
room  for  the  purpose.  But  as  the  season  for 
the  travelers  drew  near,  he  seems  to  have  hoped 
that  some  invalids  wishing  to  spend  a few  months 
at  Thebes  might  need  it,  and  prove  more  profit- 
able tenants ; and  so  he  had  sent  Monsur  notice 
to  move  the  school  to  some  other  quarter.  In 
this  emergency  he  went  to  the  Bishop,  who  re- 
ceived it  into  the  church — with  what  ulterior 
ends,  the  sequel  will  show.  The  first  interview 
with  him  led  me  to  suspect  the  purity  of  his 
motives  ; for  as  we  came  out  of  the  church  he 
pointed  to  a vacant  lot  just  beside  it,  to  which  he 
had  brought  a large  quantity  of  bricks  and  build- 
ing material,  and  on  which  he  said  he  wished 
to  build  a school-house,  as  it  was  not  fitting,  he 
said,  that  the  school  should  permanently  remain 
in  the  church  ; but  that  he  was  in  need  of  the 
wfierewith  to  go  on  with  the  building.  I told 


THE  BISHOP. 


47 


him  we  would  help  him  all  we  could,  but  de- 
termined not  to  commit  myself  too  far.  The 
Bishop  failed  us  in  the  end,  but  he  never  de- 
ceived me.  In  looking  over  my  letters*  written 
to  Cairo  at  the  time,  I find,  under  date  of  the 
succeeding  Monday,  the  following  The  Bishop 
professes  great  devotion  to  our  cause,  but  of 
course  has  his  ends.  Still,  it  is  a favorable 
breeze,  to  which,  for  the  time  being,  we  must 
open  our  sails,  making  the  most  of  it.” 

2d,  Sabbath.  The  Bishop  having  invited  us  to 
attend  services  in  the  church,  and  Monsur  in- 
forming me  that  he  thought  they  would  allow 
me  to  preach,  I sent  up  on  Saturday  evening  to 
inquire  what  would  be  the  Scripture  lessons  for 
the  morrow.  That  in  the  Gospel  was  Mark  x. 
17-31.  I could  not  have  asked  a better  text,  and 
spent  till  one  o’clock  in  the  morning  in  preparing 
to  preach  from  it.  The  exciting  anticipation  of 
having  the  privilege  of  preaching  in  a Coptic 
church,  awoke  me  by  starlight,  but  withal  I was 
not  early  enough,  for  I was  but  just  fairly  seated 
at  my  coffee  and  eggs,  and  the  sun,  not  yet  up, 
was  beginning  to  gild  the  western  hills,  when 
two  messengers  came  from  the  Bishop  to  tell  me 
to  come,  as  the  services  had  already  commenced. 
I hastened  up  to  the  church  with  my  Testament 
under  my  arm,  and  was  pointed  to  a chair  beside 
his  reverence.  They  were  reading  and  chanting 
their  prayers,  partly  in  Arabic,  but  mostly  in 


4S 


EGYPT  S PRIYCES. 


Coptic.  When  the  time  came  for  reading  the 
“ Lesson”  from  the  Gospels,  the  Bishop  first  read 
it  in  Coptic,  with  a deacon  standing  on  each  side 
of  him  with  a lighted  candle.  He  then  asked 
me  to  read  the  translation  in  Arabic,  and  I took 
my  place  behind  the  stand  on  which  the  books 
were  placed,  (there  being  no  pulpit.)  One  of  the 
deacons  came  to  me  with  a lighted  candle,  but 
looking  up  to  the  windows  in  the  roof,  I re- 
marked that  there  was  light  enough,  and  I could 
see  to  read,  which  provoked  a smile  from  those 
around,  and  he  took  his  seat.  I read  the  pas- 
sage above  mentioned,  when  the  Bishop  asked 
me  to  expound,  and  I commenced  my  sermon. 
The  men  and  boys,  large  and  small,  were  sitting 
around  on  mats,  and  the  women  in  the  raised 
place  in  the  back  ground,  where  the  school  is 
kept.  There  were,  I should  think,  from  150  to 
200  present,  and  they  were  all  very  attentive.  I 
spoke  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  when  I 
could  see  that  the  Bishop  was  getting  uneasy, 
and  I stopped.  He  had  good  reason  for  uneasi- 
ness, for  he  had  not  yet  had  his  breakfast,  and  I 
found  that  they  had  yet  the  long  services  of  the 
mass  before  them.  When  all  was  over  I found 
that  it  was  nearly  nine  o’clock,  which,  consider- 
ing that  the  service  commenced  before  sunrise, 
made  a long — not  sederunt , for  as  the  church,  like 
most  churches  of  the  East,  was  unfurnished  with 
seats,  the  people  stood  most  of  the  time.  The 


CHURCH  SERVICE. 


49 


Copts  are  as  noted  in  the  East  as  the  Covenan- 
ters in  the  West  for  the  length  of  their  services; 
and  when  we  consider  that  they  are  almost  alto- 
gether in  incomprehensible  Coptic,  we  must  at 
least  admire  their  patience.  As  I went  out  of 
the  church  I could  not  help  exclaiming,  Poor, 
poor  people,  who  have  no  food  but  this  for  their 
souls. 

But  to  return  to  the  mass,  or  Kuddas,  as  they 
call  it.  The  Bishop  asked  me  to  go  into  the 
Holy  of  Holies,  which,  as  I had  never  witnessed 
the  ceremony  in  Coptic,  I did.  The  inner  room, 
which  I have  called  the  Holy  of  Holies,  as  it 
corresponds  to  that  department  in  the  Jewish 
temple,  is  a small  room  about  ten  feet  square, 
arched  over-head,  with  a narrow  door  on  each 
side,  leading  into  small  dark  vestry  rooms.  It 
is  separated  from  the  body  of  the  church  by  a 
chintz  veil,  into  which  an  opening  is  cut,  large 
enough  for  the  entrance  of  a man  : (this  veil 
occupied  the  place  of  the  panelled  and  carved 
partition  or  image-stand  in  finished  churches): 
and  back  of  the  veil  is  the  altar,  (a  stone  one, 
and  not  a wooden  table,  which  the  high-church- 
men would  doubtless  rejoice  to  learn,)  covered 
with  a cloth  much  greased  by  the  droppings  of 
the  candles.  The  Officiating  priest,  a fine-looking 
young  man,  whose  acquaintance  I had  made  the 
day  before,  was  dressed  in  a dirty  white  linen  robe, 
with  a shawl  of  the  same  material  over  his  head, 
5 


50 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


and  around  his  face,  on  which  were  embroidered 
fancy  designs  and  crosses.  He  stood  in  front  of 
the  opening,  just  within  the  veil  and  before  the 
altar,  and  of  course  with  his  back  to  the  people. 
Besides  him  and  myself  there  were  in  the  inner 
room  a deacon,  (avIio  swung  the  censer  which 
was  occasionally  replenished  by  the  priest  from 
a little  box  of  frankincense  beside  him,  from 
which  he  each  time  took  a pinch,  at  first  with 
his  naked  fingers,  but  after  he  had  washed  his 
hands  for  the  manipulations  of  the  mass,  with 
an  intervening  cloth,)  and  four  boys,  one  of  whom 
was  also  robed.  The  service  was  altogether 
Coptic,  and  was  chanted ; the  deacon  and  boys, 
and  also  at  times  the  people  outside  joining  in 
thg  responses.  The  bread  was  a round  cake, 
about  three  inches  in  diameter  and  one  in  thick- 
ness with  a square  figure  like  a J erusalem  cross 
in  the  center,  which  they  say  represents  the  Sa- 
viour, and  around  it  twelve  other  similar  smaller 
crosses,  for  the  twelve  apostles,  and  five  small 
holes  pierced  into  it  to  represent  the  five  wounds 
of  the  Saviour,  and  around  this  figure  the  pas- 
sage, “ Glory  to  God  in  the  highest,  on  earth 
peace,  good  will  to  men,”  in  the  Coptic.  The 
silver  platter  containing  the  bread,  and  also  the 
cup,  which  was  placed  on  a raised  stand  in  the 
center,  were  each  covered  with  several  small 
silk  embroidered  cloths  of  different  colors  which 
were  slowly  removed,  two  by  two,  by  the  priest, 


THE  MASS. 


51 


and  then  held  up  in  succession  beside  him  on  a 
level  with  his  shoulders,  while  he  was  repeating 
the  service.  After  removing  all  the  cloths,  he 
performed  various  manipulations  over  the  bread, 
such  as  crosses,  passing  his  finger  around  the 
edge  of  the  cake,  placing  it  over  the  cup,  and 
holding  it  in  one  hand  and  placing  the  other  over 
it  while  he  was  constantly  repeating  the  service, 
lie  then  broke  the  bread  into,  I think,  five  pieces, 
one  of  which  he  dipped  into  the  cup,  and  then 
pressed  it  upon  the  other  pieces  successively. 
He  then  ate  a part  himself,  and  the  rest  he  ad- 
ministered to  the  boy  in  robes,  the  latter  walk- 
ing around  the  altar  after  each  mouthful,  hold- 
ing a cloth  closely  to  his  mouth,  to  prevent  the 
possibility  of  a crumb  being  lost.  The  wine  was 
then  taken  with  a spoon  also  by  the  officiating 
priest  and  the  boy.  Throughout  the  whole  cer- 
emony, the  greatest  care  was  taken  to  prevent 
the  waste  of  a crumb  of  the  bread,  or  a drop  of 
the  wine.  Every  time  the  priest  lifted  or  touched 
the  bread,  he  very  carefully  rubbed  his  fingera 
over  the  platter,  and  after  the  bread  was  eaten 
he  first  carefully  picked  up  the  crumbs,  and  theD 
rubbed  the  platter  over  and  over  again,  with  his 
forefinger,  which  he  each  time  licked  off  with  an 
appetizing  smack,  which  must  have  made  the 
teeth  of  the  poor  people  who  were  fasting  out- 
side water.  The  bread  was  elevated  several 
times  to  a level  with  his  head,  when  the  people 


52 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


bowed  most  of  them  half  way,  but  many  of  them 
with  their  faces  to  the  ground.  At  particular 
parts  of  the  service,  too,  the  people  repeated 
prayers,  apparently  very  devoutly  and  earnestly, 
with  their  hands  and  eyes  lifted  to  heaven. 
When  all  was  over,  the  Bishop  came  within, 
and  standing  before  the  opening  in  the  veil, 
blessed  the  people  by  putting  his  hand  upon  the 
face  of  each  as  he  passed,  and  repeating  the 
words  of  the  benediction.  He  then  broke  and 
handed  to  the  people  without  one  of  the  cakes, 
over  which  they  had  a good-natured  scramble, 
each  trying  to  get  at  least  a crumb.  This  of 
course  was  not  considered  as  part  of  the  sacra- 
ment, as  the  bread  had  not  been  blessed.  It  is, 
I think,  the  love-feast  of  which  we  read  in  early 
church  history.  In  the  Greek  church  I have 
seen  a large  dish  of  bread  thus  distributed.  He 
then  gave  Monsur  and  me  each  a loaf,  and  one 
for  Mrs.  L.  when  we  left.  A Coptic  priest  can 
seldom  be  met  on  Sabbath  after  mass  but  he  will 
take  from  his  bosom  and  olfer  one  of  these 
cakes  ; and  it  is  done  with  an  air  which  shows 
that  it  is  regarded  as  an  act  of  Christian  recog- 
nition and  brotherly  good  feeling. 

Afternoon.  Saw  a man  whom  I knew,  from 
his  black  turban,  to  be  a Christian,  fishing  with 
a net ; called  him  to  the  boat,  and  remonstrated 
with  him  for  breaking  the  Sabbath.  He  said, 
“You  are  a priest,  are  you  not?”  I said, 


A COPTIC  PRIEST. 


53 


“ Yes.”  “ So  am  I,”  he  answered.  “ Then,” 
said  I,  “you  are  a successor  of  those  who  were 
fishers  of  fish,  and  the  Master  made  them  fishers 
of  men,  and  you  should  this  day  be  engaged  in 
this  latter  work.”  I talked  with  him  a long 
time,  but  evidently  without  making  much  im- 
pression. He  admitted  the  truth  of  what  I said, 
but  appeared  to  be  a man  whose  mind  had  been 
embittered  against  religion.  Speaking  of  him  to 
another  priest,  in  the  evening,  the  latter  told  me 
that  he  had  not  been  at  cburch  for  years  ; that 
he  was  so  hardened  a man,  that  on  one  occasion 
he  saw  him  beaten  by  order  of  the  bishop,  until 
he  seemed  almost  dead,  and  the  boils  broke  out 
all  over  his  body,  and  yet  he  was  obstinate  ; he 
would  not  yield.  In  thinking  of  this  afterwards, 
it  seemed  to  be  a very  pertinent  illustration  of 
Deut.  xxv.  3.:  “ Forty  stripes  he  may  give  him, 
and  not  exceed ; lest  if  he  should  exceed,  and 
beat  him  above  these  Avith  many  stripes,  then 
thy  brother  should  seem  vile  unto  thee.”  This 
man,  by  being  over-beaten,  had  “ become  vile  ” 
in  the  eyes  of  his  fellow  Christians,  and  lost  his 
own  self-respect.  It  requires  some  insight  into 
oriental  character  to  understand  this.  We  cer- 
tainly would  judge  the  contrary,  viz. : that  his 
power  of  endurance  and  strength  of  will,  in  not 
yielding,  would  be  a matter  of  pride  and  boast- 
ing to  him.  We  certainly,  under  like  circum- 
stances, Avould  be  apt  to  say,  “ The  bishop 
5* 


54 


Egypt’s  princes. 


whipped  me  until  he  was  tired,  and  I did  not 
give  up,”  and  claim  from  others  praise  for  man- 
liness and  strength  of  character. 

The  fact  of  his  being  thus  beaten,  thus  inad- 
vertently mentioned,  shows  what  episcopal  au- 
thority and  church  discipline  are  among  the 
Copts.  Jacob,  the  Bishop  of  Minyeh,  Avho  died 
a few  months  ago,  was  noted  for  the  free  use 
which  he  made  of  the  naboot.*  He  is  said  to  have 
had  several  of  different  sizes,  which  he  had  named 
after  the  names  of  some  of  the  apostles  and  fathers. 
These  he  had  standing  in  the  corner  of  his  room, 
and  his  custom  was, summarily  to  deal  with  each 
case  coming  before  him,  by  ordering  the  offender 
on  his  face,  and  then  ordering  one  of  his  deacons 
to  bring  St.  Paul  or  Peter,  or  Cyril  or  Athan- 
asius, according  to  the  gravity  of  the  offence. 
He  is  said  to  have  killed  two  men  under  the 
naboot.  Thus  he,  as  well  as  we  of  the  West- 
minster Assembly,  had  degrees  of  church  cen- 
sures. It  seems  hard — but  what  can  be  done 
with  a people  who  have  no  keen  sensibilities 
except  in  the  soles  of  their  feet,  and  with  whom 
admonition,  reproof,  rebuke,  etc.,  and  even  ex- 
communication,  would  be  little  more  than  empty 
sound  or  idle  wind.  With  a people  such  as  the 
Egyptians,  I believe  in  the  bastinado.  They  are 
grown  children,  and  for  children  Solomon  pre- 

* The  naboot  is  a heavy  club  of  about  six  feet  long,  and  an 
inch  in  diameter. 


PRIESTLY  POWER. 


55 


scribed  the  rod,  and  Solomon  was  wiser  than 
our  moral  suasionists.  I would,  however,  far 
prefer  seeing  the  rod  iu  the  secular  hand. 

This  Episcopal  power  seems  to  be  a remnant 
of  the  old  Egyptian  regimen,  when  the  priests 
of  towns  were  their  governors,  and  the  temples 
were  at  the  same  time  the  palaces.  Joseph  mar- 
ried the  daughter  of  the  “ prince  ” or  priest  of 
On.  Our  marginal  Bible  gives  the  second 
meaning  as  a various  reading,  but  his  father-in- 
law  probably  united  in  his  person  the  two  offices, 
which  we  know  from  the  sculptures  was  the  cus- 
tom with  the  ancient  Egyptians.  The  name  was 
preserved  after  the  two  offices  were  separated. 
In  2d  Sam.  viii.  18,  David’s  sons  are  called  “ chief 
rulers;”  literally  “Kohenim”  (priests).  But 
they  were  not  priests,  for  that  would  have  been 
against  the  J ewish  law ; and,  besides,  wo  are 
informed  in  the  preceding  verse  that  Zadok  anti 
Ahimelech  were  the  priests.  The  word  is  the 
same,  but  the  offices  had  now  become  distinct. 

While  on  the  subject,  I may  mention  two 
other  analogies  between  the  modern  and  ancient 
priesthood.  In  Gen.  xlvii.  22,  it  is  said : “ Only 
the  land  of  the  priests  bought  he  not;  for  the 
priests  had  a portion  assigned  them  of  Pharaoh, 
and  the  priests  did  eat  their  portion,  which  Pha- 
raoh gave  them  ; wherefore  they  sold  not  their 
lands.”  From  this  we  learn  that  the  priests 
were  proprietors  of  land.  And  when  the  land 


56 


Egypt’s  princes. 


of  Canaan  was  divided  under  Joshua,  the  priests 
also  had  their  cities,  with  their  suburbs,  assigned 
to  them.  So  the  modern  Coptic  priesthood  do 
not  consider  it  derogatory  to  their  sacred  char- 
acter to  be  possessors  of  houses  and  lands.  I 
was  reliably  informed  that  Jacob,  above  men- 
tioned, possessed  at  his  death  2,000  acres  of  the 
rich  land  of  the  Nile  valley,  and  that  cash  to  the 
almost  incredible  amount  of  $80,000  was  found 
in  his  coffers,  which  all  fell  to  the  Patriarch  of 
Cairo,  as  being  the  heir  of  the  Church,  or  rather 
of  her  heirless  bishops.  So  our  friend,  Father 
Makhiel,  pointed  out  to  us  on  Saturday,  from 
the  roof  of  his  house,  his  lands  and  possessions, 
both  in  the  town  and  beyond  on  the  plain.  This 
system  has,  we  think,  here  and  in  the  present  state 
of  religion  and  society , great  advantages.  It 
renders  the  priesthood  independent : an  advan- 
tage which  our  English  friends  boast  of  as  the 
result  of  their  establishment,  with  its  endow- 
ments; but  to  my  mind,  on  many  accounts,  a 
much  less  dubious  advantage  here  than  there. 
It  enables  men  like  Bukhtor,  who  has  some 
property  of  his  own,  to  come  out  on  the  side  of 
truth,  without  any  fear  of  being  starved  by  the 
people  on  whom  he  is  dependent,  or  a cruel 
mother  church ; and  where  the  weekly  functions 
of  the  priesthood  do  not  require  a -week’s  labor- 
ious study  and  preparation,  but  consist  for  the 
most  part  of  an  hour’s  senseless  vociferation  and 


PRIESTLY  WEALTH. 


57 


manipulation,  it  is  much  better  that  the  priest 
should  spend  his  week  days  among  his  cattle 
and  crops,  than  in  the  houses  of  his  parishioners, 
and  that  he  should  earn  his  bread  by  the  sweat 
of  his  brow,  by  plying  the  plow  and  the  mat- 
tock, than  that  he  should  be  left  to  depend  for 
his  livelihood  upon  the  low  arts  of  a selfish 
priestcraft,  and  the  cunningly  devised  rites  of  a 
superstitious  and  secularized  church,  that  he 
may  thus  reach  through  the  enslaved  consciences 
of  a debased  and  abject  people  their  tightly 
drawn  purse-strings.  Whether  I am  right  in 
ascribing  the  fact  in  a great  measure  to  this  or 
not,  it  is  nevertheless  the  fact  that  the  Coptic 
priests  do  not  assume  nor  possess  that  absolute 
power  over  the  consciences  of  their  people  which 
the  priests  of  the  other  eastern  sects  do,  not- 
withstanding their  occasional  use  of  the  naboot. 
And  in  this  fact  is  one  of  our  strongest  grounds 
of  hope  for  the  Copts. 

Another  point  of  analogy  was  the  special  favor 
shown  to  the  priesthood  by  the  government. 
“The  land  of  the  priests  bought  he  not,”  and 
yet  their  necessary  portion  of  daily  food  was 
assigned  them  of  Pharaoh.  And  thus  to  the 
present  day  the  priests  have  many  immunities 
and  privileges.  To  us,  the  wisest  of  these  ap- 
pear to  be,  that  we  missionaries  are  allowed  to 
bring  into  the  country  Bibles,  books,  and  what- 
ever else  we  need,  free  of  custom,  and  that  we 


58 


Egypt’s  princes. 


have  the  privilege  of  traveling  free  on  the  gov- 
ernment railway  between  Alexandria  and  Cairo. 

Monday , 3d.  Two  other  priests  called.  They 
ashed  for  instruction,  saying  that  they  were 
ignorant.  I handed  one  of  them  the  Testament, 
and  he  opened  it  and  read  the  parable  of  the  ten 
virgins.  I called  their  attention  to  the  great 
lessons  therein  taught — that  a large  portion  of 
those  that  are  in  the  church  or  kingdom  of 
Christ,  will  be  found  foolish  virgins,  who,  in  the 
last  day,  will  find  the  door  of  the  kingdom  of 
heaven  shut  against  them ; that  the  foolish  and 
wise  virgins  appeared  as  to  externals  the  same; 
that  the  difference  consisted  in  the  oil  of  divine 
grace  being  found  in  the  hearts  of  the  wise  and 
not  in  those  of  the  foolish  ; and  that  it  was  their 
duty  first  as  individuals,  to  ascertain  their  own 
state,  and  then,  as  priests,  to  do  all  they  could 
to  save  their  people  from  the  awful  dangers  of 
self-deception.  This  latter  duty  I further  urged 
upon  them  from  another  passage  which  he  next 
turned  up — viz.  “ Whosoever  offendeth  one  of 
the  least  of  these  little  ones  that  believeth  in  me, 
offendeth  me,”  etc.  They  appeared  attentive 
and  teachable,  and  I gave  them  some  directions 
how  they  should  pursue  the  study  of  the  Scrip- 
tures, and  promised  to  instruct  them  further 
on  my  return. 

We  went  up  to  the  school,  and  a good  sight 
it  was.  Forty  boys  were  present,  fine  looking 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


59 


fellows,  with  the  old  Egyptian  contour  of  face, 
and  bright  eyes,  only  one  pair  of  which  seemed  to 
have  suffered  from  ophthalmia.  Heard  about 
fourteen  of  them  read,  who  read  very  wrell  in 
the  Testament. 

Next  called  on  the  Bishop  : he  again  spoke  of 
building  a school-room,  and  said  that  the  mate- 
rials were  ready,  only  that  he  had  no  money  to 
pay  the  workmen.  I promised  to  endeavor  to 
obtain  some  assistance  from  the  travelers  on  my 
return  from  the  South.  Noticed  the  inscription 
above  the  church  door.  It  stated  that  the 
church  was  built  by  Father  Makhiel,  (the  pres- 
ent Bishop) ;that  it  was  dedicated  to  St.  George; 
and  its  date  was  1574  from  the  martyrs,  a me- 
mento of  the  bloody  reign  of  Diocletian. 

We  started  at  4 p.  m.,  but  the  Avind  being 
unfavorable  we  did  not  make  much  progress. 
Noticed  that  most  of  the  peasants  were  naked, 
with  the  exception  of  the  Avhite  cotton  cap, 
Avliich  many  of  the  children  were  without,  and 
the  apron  or  bandage  about  the  loins,  just  as 
they  are  delineated  in  the  sculptures. 

4 tli.  Reached  the  sugar  factories  of  Mustapha 
Pasha,  at  Ermenf,  at  2 p.  m.  The  appearance 
of  the  settlement  from  the  river  is  the  most 
beautiful  I had  seen  since  leaving  Cairo.  The 
dull  broAvn  bank  of  the  river,  which,  with  the 
yelioAv  hills  in  the  back-ground,  is  almost  all 
that  can  be  seen,  day  after  day,  from  the  deck 


60 


Egypt’s  princes. 


of  the  boat,  was  here  covered  with  a coat  of 
. luxuriant  halfeh  grass — from  the  water’s  edge  a 
winding  stone  stairway  led  up  to  the  top  of  the 
bank,  on  each  side  of  which  was  a fine  antique 
statue,  with  a couchant  lion  on  a block  of  granite. 
Along  the  bank  was  a fine  avenue  of  acacias, 
with  an  underbrush  of  tall  reeds  on  each  side — 
in  the  back-ground  were  the  extensive  factories 
and  works,  with  the  houses  of  the  operatives, 
all  built  in  a modern  and  chaste  style,  and  neatly 
plastered — and  over  the  corners  and  sides  of 
some  of  the  snow-white  houses  were  creepers 
of  deep  green.  On  the  one  side  were  the  pic- 
turesque pigeon  towers,  with  their  myriad  flocks 
of  circling  tenants,  giving  life  and  cheerfulness 
to  the  scene;  and  on  the  other  side  was  the 
tasteful  mansion  of  the  Pasha,  surrounded  by 
what  was  evidently  a well  arranged  and  well 
stocked  garden  ; and  over  all  towered  three  tall 
chimneys,  one  of  the  sugar  factory  and  the  other 
two  of  the  steam  pumps  which  poured  their  life- 
giving  tide  into  the  vast  plain  of  luxuriant  sugar- 
cane in  the  back-ground.  Nor  was  it,  as  it  is 
usually  the  case  in  oriental  scenery,  distance 
alone  which  lent  enchantment  to  the  view.  On 
closer  inspection,  the  details  were  found  to  sus- 
tain and  strengthen  the  general  impression.  All 
was  neat,  and  clean,  and  tasteful;  and  the  Pasha’s 
garden,  with  its  vine-trellised  walks  and  bowers, 
and  every  variety  of  flowers  and  vegetables, 


ERMENT. 


61 


and  shrubbery  and  fruit-trees,  (the  latter  includ- 
ing even  the  apple  and  pear  of  more  northern 
climes,)  was  a delightful  combination  of  the  use- 
ful with  the  beautiful,  and  took  us  back  to  lands 
where  taste  has  been  long  and  studiously  culti- 
vated, and  where  horticulture  has  become  a 
science;  and  when,  with  Mr.  Scott,  the  chief 
engineer,  I visited  the  pump  and  factories,  and 
examined  their  immense  machinery,  it  was  diffi- 
cult to  realize  that  we  were  in  Africa,  and  500 
miles  from  the  sea-board. 

This  settlement  shows  how  easily  Egypt  might 
be  made  the  garden,  as  it  has  for  ages  been  the 
granary  of  the  world.  These  tasteful  and  com- 
fortable houses  were  altogether  constructed  of 
sun-dried  bricks,  with  rafters  of  the  split  trunks 
of  the  every  where  abounding  date  palm,  covered 
with  the  branches  and  leaves  of  the  same,  and  a 
layer  of  earth ; and  there  are  no  heavy  rains  to 
melt  the  frail  materials.  Where  stone  is  neces- 
sary, as  for  supporting  the  heavy  machinery,  it 
is  everywhere  at  hand  in  the  neighboring  lime- 
stone ranges,  which  enclose  the  valley,  or  in  the 
adjoining  temples,  the  most  of  which  (antiquarian 
research  and  aesthetic  enthusiasm  to  the  con- 
trary, notwithstanding,)  could  be  put  to  ho 
better  use — and  labor  is  cheap.  There  is  a 
teeming  population,  and  the  necessaries  of  life 
are  few  and  easily  obtained — so  that  the  wages 
of  a master  mason  are  25  cents  a day,  and  of  a 
6 


62 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


common  laborer  7 cents.  The  bright  sun  and. 
genial  climate,  the  matchlessly  fertile  soil,  and 
the  great  Nile,  which  pours  its  tide  of  liquid  life 
through  the  length  of  the  land,  and  with  its 
canals  and  lesser  water  courses,  which  carry  its 
fertilizing  and  vivifying  stream,  even  to  the  feet 
of  the  Lybian  and  Arabian  ranges,  and  its  annual 
overflow,  with  its  rich  deposit,  make  its  soil 
perennially  a virgin  soil.  These  are  conditions 
of  agricultural  prosperity  which  I believe  are 
found  in  no  other  known  land,  and  under  their 
influence  the  more  tardy  and  slowly  maturing 
wonders  of  the  vegetable  kingdom,  as  well  as 
the  more  speedy  and  useful  annual  crops,  spring 
up  under  the  hand  of  culture,  and  come  to  ma- 
turity as  if  by  magic.  Of  the  latter,  wheat,  In- 
dian corn,  rice,  cotton,  and  sugar-cane  are  the 
chief,  and  they  are  staples  in  the  world’s  market. 

Modern  enterprise  and  the  modern  code  of 
political  economy  would  say  that  there  is  one 
thing  wanting,  viz.  : coal,  that  powerful  agent 
which  generates  steam,  and  has  in  modern  times 
made  the  wilderness  and  the  solitary  place  to 
blossom  like  the  rose.  But  coal  can  here  be  dis- 
pensed with,  for  if  Egypt  becomes  the  producer 
of  the  world’s  necessities,  she  may  well  afford  to 
continue  dependent  on  others  for  the  few  luxu- 
ries which  she  needs.  The  vessels  which  bear 
cotton  for  the  hands,  and  wheat  for  the  mouths 
of  the  overworked  denizens  of  Manchester,  may 


PRODUCTIONS. 


63 


continue  to  bring  back  a few  bales  of  cotton 
stuffs  for  the  thin  blue  shirt  and  the  heavy  white 
turban,  which  are  alone  needed  by  the  unsophis- 
ticated dwellers  of  this  genial  clime.  What ! you 
will  say,  depend  on  the  fickle  winds  and  sullen 
stream  of  the  Nile  to  bear  the  wealth  of  Egypt’s 
productions  five  hundred  or  one  thousand  miles 
to  the  sea-board ! Yes,  for  the  navigation  of 
the  Nile  has  facilities  which  no  other  river  in  the 
world  possesses. 

For  nine  months  of  the  year  the  famous  Ete- 
sian winds  blow  steadily  from  the  north  by  day, 
wafting  along  the  lateen-sailed  craft  with  a ra- 
pidity which  almost  equals  steam  ; and  by  night 
the  swollen  and  rapid  stream  quietly  bears  down 
the  heavily-laden  craft  with  almost  an  unequaled 
rapidity;  so  that  I believe  were  the  Lybian  hills 
coal,  and  the  Arabian  iron,  it  'would  be  a long 
time  before  steam  and  steamboats  could  compete 
with  the  clumsily  made  native  djerms.  It  could 
not  until  that  passion  for  rushing  ahead  which 
has  possessed,  and  is  ruining  the  Western  na- 
tions, shall  have  taken  possession  of  Egypt  also  ; 
and  I trust  that  day  is  far  distant.  No!  the 
cheery  songs  of  the  Nile-boatmen  are  better  than 
the  crash  and  roar  of  the  steam-engine — and 
what  though  you  be  sometimes  becalmed  ? 
An  occasional  day  of  quiet  meditation  on  the 
deck  of  a sailing  boat,  and  under  an  Egyptian 
sky,  is  far  better,  even  if  material  and  temporal 


64 


EGYPT'S  PBINCES. 


interests  alone  are  to  be  consulted,  than  the  little 
extra  headway  that  might  be  obtained  amidst 
the  fumes  and  steam  and  heat,  and  the  conse- 
quent wear  and  tear  both  to  body  and  mind,  of  a 
steamer.  Nor  do  I believe  that  the  shallow  and 
ever-varying  bed  of  the  river  would  admit 
of  steam  navigation,  except  as  an  amusement  for 
the  Pashas,  with  their  pretty  playthings  of  steam 
yachts.  All  that  seems  wanting  in  this  depart- 
ment are  the  iron  plates  from  Glasgow,  for  a 
class  of  capacious  flatboats  to  take  the  place  of 
the  present  clumsy  native  djerms  ; some  cotton 
presses  from  the  United  States,  by  the  introduc- 
tion of  a few  of  which  some  enterprising  mer- 
chants are  this  year  realizing  their  100  per  cent. ; 
and  a few  sugar  factories,  the  machinery  and 
coal  for  which  the  proprietors  can  well  afford  to 
import  from  England ; these,  and  instead  of  the 
powerful  steam  pumping  machines,  for  the  set- 
ting up  and  working  of  which  a Pasha’s  estate 
and  purse  and  forced  labor  are  called  for,  some 
contrivance  for  raising  the  water  for  irrigation, 
Avhich,  I believe,  is  yet  to  be  done  by  the  screw 
which  Archimedes  formerly  introduced  here  aa, 
the  marshes  were  drained  in  Holland,  and  as 
the  wheat  is  still  ground  in  many  places  here 
by  the  north  wind.  The  man  who  introduces 
the  contrivance  will  deserve  from  the  land  of 
Egypt,  and  especially  from  the  poor  blind-folded 
cattle  who  labor  in  the  tread-mill  of  the  creak- 


THE  SAKIA. 


Egypt’s  Princes. 


NEEDS. 


65 


ing  sakias,*  and  from  the  naked  “ drawers  of 
water”  who  toil  in  the  hard  service  of  the  Sha- 
doof, a monument  of  brass  as  tall  as  Cheops. 
Nay,  Egypt  can  prosper  without  coal,  for  it  has 
in  it  the  elements  of  a great  agricultural  coun- 
try. But  it  has  a need,  nay  two,  which  must 
be  supplied  before  it  can  become  the  great  and 
prosperous  country  for  which  it  is  intended. 

1.  It  needs  the  Gospel  to  deliver  its  people 
from  their  degrading  superstitions  and  abject 
ignorance,  and  that  Gospel  alone  can  procure  for 
them  and  prepare  them  for  a free,  liberal,  and 
fostering  government.  Egypt  is  now  truly  the 
basest  of  kingdoms.  It  is  such  because  the  Lord 
has  fulfilled  his  threatening,  “ I will  make  the 
rivers  dry,  and  sell  the  land  into  the  hand  of  the 
Avicked ; and  I will  make  the  land  waste,  and  all 
that  is  therein  by  the  hand  of  strangers.  I the 
Lord  have  spoken  it.”  The  Lord  has  smitten 
Egypt.  He  has  smitten  and  he  has  promised  to 
heal  her,  “And  they  shall  return  even  unto  the 
Lord,  and  he  shall  be  entreated  of  them  and  shall 
heal  them.” 

2.  The  second  thing  needed,  and  which  will 
follow  as  the  result  of  the  former,  is  a Avise  and 
liberal  government.  The  pre'sent  government  is  a 
cruel  despotism,  and  the  people,  alas,  are  prepared 
for  no  better.  The  attempt  to  force  upon  them  a 

* Water-whoels  for  raising  water  from  the  river  to  irrigate 
the  land. 

6* 


Egypt’s  princes. 


66 

better  before  they  are  prepared  for  it,  would  be 
to  introduce  confusion  and  anarchy  and  every 
evil  work.  The  ruling  house,  since  the  days  of 
Mohammed  Ali,  has  made  the  attempt  to  introduce 
not  a liberal  and  fostering  government,  under 
which  the  land  might  prosper,  but  despotically 
to  force  upon  the  people  the  arts  and  sciences 
of  European  civilization;  and  the  result  has  been 
a failure.  It  has  crushed  the  great  mass  of  the 
people  into  deeper  misery  and  degradation,  and 
this  must  ever  be  the  result  of  such  a scheme. 

Western  civilization  is  in  this  soil  an  exotic. 
It  is  like  the  apple  tree  brought  from  Northern 
climes  under  this  ardent  sun.  It  has  degenerated 
from  a tree  to  a stunted  shrub,  and  its  fruit  is 
rotten  before  it  is  ripe. 

But  I have  wandered  far  from  the  sugar  fac- 
tory of  Mustapha  Pasha.  I was  anxious  to  know 
who  was  the  presiding  and  forming  genius  in 
this  scene  of  beauty,  and  I soon  saw  him,  under 
circumstances  which  caused  a sad  revulsion  in 
the  feelings  of  admiration  which  his  handy  work 
had  caused.  On  landing,  I went  directly  to  the 
dewan  of  the  Coptic  scribes  of  the  establishment, 
in  order  to  inform  them  that  I had  Bibles  for 
sale,  and  also  to  find  John  Markus,  a Copt,  who 
had  bought  a large  number  of  books  from  Mon- 
sur.  Entering  the  room  where  some  dozen  or 
fourteen  of  these  were  sitting  “a  la  Turque,”  on 
their  cushions,  behind  their  little  desks,  and  with 


JOHN  MARKUS. 


67 


their  great  account  books  in  their  laps,  and  all 
in  the  usual  Coptic  confusion  and  disorder,  I 
looked  around,  and  choosing  the  most  intelligent- 
looking  one  on  the  other  side  of  the  room,  I step- 
ped up  to  him  and  asked  him  if  he  knew  John 
Markus.  “ I am  he  !”  he  answered  with  an  ex- 
clamation of  surprise  at  my  knowing  him,  as  he 
asked  me  to  he  seated.  I sat  down  on  the  floor 
beside  him,  but  I had  hardly  finished  the  com- 
pliments and  coffee,  when  I saw  a strange  sight 
from  the  window,  the  description  of  which  I will 
have  to  leave  for  another  chapter. 


CHAPTER  III. 


' I was  sitting  beside  John  Markus  as  I heard 
a strange  clatter  and  a beseeching  cry  of  dis- 
tress, and,  stepping  to  the  window,  I beheld,  for 
the  first  time  during  my  residence  in  the  East, 
the  judicial  administration  of  the  bastinado.  A 
spy  from  the  overseer  of  the  works,  Ameen 
Effendi,  had  been  out  the  night  before,  and  had 
found  the  guard,  who  should  have  been  on  duty 
watching  the  sugar-cane,  asleep  at  their  posts ; 
and  twenty-five  of  them  had  been  brought  up 
for  punishment.  The  place  for  the  administra- 
tion of  the  punishment  was  the  most  public  one 
in  the  village — in  front  of  the  cafe.  The  Effen- 
di, who  had  been  the  judge  in  the  case,  sat  by 
with  a few  of  his  men — thus  the  punishment 
took  place  in  the  presence  of  the  Judge,  accord- 
ing to  Deut.  xxv.  Each  man  stepped  forward 
in  turn,  and  apparently  without  any  reluctance, 
and,  lying  down  on  his  face,  raised  the  soles  of 
his  feet.  Two  men  sitting  on  the  ground,  one 
on  each  side  of  the  culprit,  firmly  grasped  his 
extended  hands,  and  then  placed  their  feet 
against  his  sides.  Two  others,  sitting  likewise 
on  the  opposite  sides  of  his  knees,  held  his  feet 
(68) 


BASTINADO. 


G9 


in  their  place  by  means  of  a stick  about  four 
feet  long,  with  a noose  in  the  middle,  which  was 
wound  around  the  ankles,  they  also  placing  their 
feet  against  his  knees,  so  that  he  was  held  as  if 
in  a vice.  The  torturers  were  two  strong  men, 
who  had  their  flowing  sleeves  tied  up  about 
their  shoulders,  so  as  to  give  the  right  arm  free 
play ; and  the  instrument  of  torture  a Jcarbash , 
which  is  a heavy  whip  much  like  our  cowhide, 
about  five  feet  long,  and  made  of  hippopotamus 
skin.  Each  man  struck  his  foot.  The  whip, 
which  is  a very  heavy  and  severe  one,  was  raised 
high  in  the  air,  and  came  heavily  down,  with  a 
crash  which  reminded  me  very  much  of  our  old- 
fashioned  threshing  with  flails.  The  number  of 
strokes  was  twenty-five.  Some,  whose  hardened 
feet  did  not  seem  to  suffer  so  much,  received  a 
few  more  ; others  who  squirmed  very  much  and 
besought  the  Effendi  very  pitiously  for  mercy, 
were  let  off  with  less.  Most  of  them  did  not 
move,  and  when  they  rose,  after  limping  a few 
steps,  they  put  on  their  shoes  and  walked  off  as 
if  nothing  had  happened.  It  was  to  me  a most 
sickening  sight,  and  yet  it  has  not  changed  my 
opinion  before  expressed,  of  the  expediency  of 
such  punishment  with  a people  such  as  we  have 
here.  The  law  of  Moses  was  made  for  such  a 
people.  It  prescribes  the  rod  for  various  offences, 
and  he  who  enacted  that  law  was  wiser  than  all 
our  Solons. 


70 


Egypt’s  princes. 


I may  be  permitted  to  say  a few  words  iu 
defence  of  this  opinion,  which,  I anticipate,  will 
sound  very  barbarous  in  delicate  and  civilized 
ears : 

1.  The  Naboot , or  Karbaj , simply  inflicts  cor- 
poreal pain.  It  does  not,  as  it  would  with  us, 
entail  degradation  and  infamy,  such  as  would 
make  a man  vile  in  the  eyes  of  his  neighbors,  and 
take  away  self-respect. 

2.  It  is  prompt  and  severe,  and  appeals  to  the 
corporeal  instead  of  the  moral  feelings,  and  this 
punishment  should  do  good  among  a people 
whose  moral  feelings  are  so  imperfectly  devel- 
oped. To  children  and  a child-like  people  it  is 
the  rod  that  giveth  wisdom.  I feel  confident 
that  by  our  code,  with  its  tardy  but  strict  (even 
strictness  is  sometimes  well  dispensed  with  in 
dealing  with  children)  justice — its  delays  in  ad- 
ministration—and  its  lingering  imprisonments 
and  heavy  fines,  with  the  sufferings  which  in 
this  poverty-stricken  land  these  would  necessarily 
inflict,  not  only  on  the  culprits,  but  on  their 
families — more  misery  would  be  entailed  and 
less  crime  prevented  than  by  the  present  system. 
To  the  Church  in  its  nonage, the  ceremonial  law 
contained  in  Leviticus  was  an  admirable  pic- 
torial gospel,  addressed  to  the  corporeal  senses 
of  those  whose  mental  and  reflective  powers 
were  not  yet  sufficiently  developed  to  appre- 
ciate a more  abstract  exhibition  of  truth;  and  so 


PUNISHMENTS." 


71 


it  was  with  its  moral  code,  with  its  appended 
system  of  corporeal  punishment ; and  it  is  now 
equally  applicable  to  a people  of  like  mental 
habitudes.  When  the  gospel  comes  with  its 
higher,  cultivation,  it  brings  with  it  freedom 
from  these  beggarly  elements  and  this  intoler- 
able yoke. 

3.  I do  not  believe  that  the  Naboot  is  in  as 
frequent  requisition  here  as  many  passing  travel- 
ers represent.  That  which  I have  described  is 
the  first  time  I have  witnessed  its  application 
during  a residence  of  ten  years  in  the  East.  I 
do  not  think  that  the  Turks  deserve  the  reputa- 
tion for  wilful  and  despotic  cruelty  which  they 
have  received.  Cases  of  gratuitous  and  unrea- 
soning tyranny  doubtless  exist,  but  I believe 
they  are  rarer;  and  popular  opinion  has  a more 
powerful  influence  than  is  usually  imagined. 
There  is  a freedom  of  intercourse  and  a com- 
munity of  feeling  between  the  rulers  and  the 
ruled,  which  we  seldom  see  in  more  enlightened 

4 . . . ° 

lands,  and  it  has  its  effect  in  smoothing  down 
the  rough  edges  of  arbitrary  power — so  that, 
notwithstanding  all  that  has  been  said  of  Turk- 
ish cruelty,  I have  no  hesitation  in  avowing  my 
belief  that  the  Naboot  is  far  better  in  the  hands 
of  Turks  and  Arabs,  than  it  would  be  in  the 
hands  of  imperious  Englishmen  and  nervous  and 
excitable  Americans. 

4.  There  are  here  checks  and  balances  which, 


72 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


though  very  different  from  those  which  keep  the 
machinery  of  Western  governments  steady,  are 
yet  very  effectual.  True,  we  have  no  free  press 
here  to  expose  the  irregularities  of  mismanage- 
ment and  mal-government ; but  we  have  the 
everlasting  clatter  of  a thousand  tongues,  which 
are  swifter  than  the  pens  of  ready  writers,  or 
the  types  of  steam-presses,  and  they  are  in  the 
heads  of  a people  who  know  everything  and  tell 
every  body  all  they  know.  We  have  no  regular 
constitution  nor  written  code  of  law  and  juris- 
prudence, except  the  crude  apology  for  them 
contained  in  the  Koran  and  traditions ; but  we 
have  an  all-powerful  popular  opinion,  regulated 
and  enlightened  by  many  wise  maxims  which 
have  come  down  from  a remote  antiquity,  and 
by  the  influence  of  contact  and  intercourse  with 
surrounding  nations  of  various  political  systems 
— a popular  opinion  which  is  all  the  more  jeal- 
ously guarded  and  insisted  on  from  the  absence 
of  other  safeguards  of  public  wealv  True,  we 
have  not  here  legislative,  judicial,  and  executive 
departments,  each  acting  in  its  peculiar  and  well- 
defined  province,  and  each  acting  as  a balance- 
wheel  to  the  other.  These  are,  for  the  most 
part,  united  in  the  persons  of  the  rulers,  each 
one  of  Avhom  is  made  all  but  absolute  in  his  de- 
partment; but  there  is  a subordination  of  per- 
sonalities and  an  amenability  of  lower  to  higher 
tribunals,  and  of  all  to  the  decision  of  popular 


GOVERNMENT. 


78 


opinion,  which,  in  a measure,  secures  the  ends  of 
our  limited  monarchies  and  constitutional  gov- 
ernments. The  Sheikh-El-Beled  is  subject  to 
the  Nazir,  the  Nazir  to  the  Mudir,  the  Mudir  to 
the  Viceroy,  the  Viceroy  to  the  Sultan,  and  the 
Sultan  to  the  conscience  of  enlightened  Europe 
and  the  balance  of  European  powers,  so  that 
absolutism,  in  the  strict  sense  of  the  word,  can- 
not be  said  to  exist.  The  higher  tribunal  is  in 
all  cases  accessible  to  the  complaints  and  state- 
ments of  grievances  from  the  subjects  of  the 
lower;  so  that  every  man  who  is  entrusted  with 
authority,  is  also  literally  a man  under  authority, 
and  it  is  thus  made  his  highest  interest  to  secure 
the  respect  and  good-will  of  those  over  whom 
he  rules.  Thus,  while  each  man  may  be  abso- 
lute in  his  own  department,  he  is  very  far  from 
being  independent  or  irresponsible.  The  differ- 
ent departments  are  connected  by  the  bands  of 
a chain  which  cannot  be  broken,  and  each  man 
is  enclosed  and  limited  by  the  bands  of  an  un- 
written law,  which  he  cannot  burst  asunder,  and 
above,  beneath,  and  around  him  is  an  atmos- 
phere of  public  opinion  from  which  he  cannot 
escape. 

I could  produce  numerous  examples  of  the 
harmonious  and  beneficial  working  of  this  sys- 
tem, but  to  do  so  would  carry  me  far  beyond 
my  prescribed  bounds,  and  I prefer  referring  to 
a couple  of  Scriptural  parables  which  beautifully 
7 


74 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


exhibit  the  working  of  that  system  which  I have 
attempted  briefly  to  explain,  Matt,  xviii.  23-38  ; 
Luke  xvi.  1-12.  I find  that  the  author  of  “Vil- 
lage Life  in  Egypt,”  (an  acute  writer,  but  one 
whose  opportunities  of  observation  were  lim- 
ited,) represents  the  above  facts  and  principles 
as  producing  a contrary  effect  to  the  one  whicli 
I have  observed,  and  which  is  described  in  the 
above  parables.  He  says,  “From  these  anec- 
dotes it  will  be  seen  that  the  office  of  Nazir  is 
no  sinecure,  and  it  is  perhaps  natural  that  men 
who  are  themselves  subject  to  such  arbitrary 
treatment  should  go  and  do  likewise  to  their  in- 
feriors. In  the  less  princely  way,  but  with 
equal  severity,  do  the  Nazirs  treat  the  subordi- 
nates, and  especially  the  Sheikhs  of  villages. 
These  again,  it  is  true,  in  order  to  ease  the  smart, 
make  free  with  the  shoulders  below  them.  So 
that  a cuff  from  the  Pasha  of  Pashas  eddies 
away  sometimes  to  the  very  depths  of  the  popu- 
lation, and  is  felt  in  its  consequences  from  the 
Bahairah  to  the  Said.  It  is  impossible  to  calcu- 
late how  many  square  feet  of  human  back  used 
to  require  poulticing  within  a few  days  after  one 
of  Mohammed  AH’s  interviews  with  his  naughty 
children.” 

The  “anecdotes”  which  he  has  related, 
viewed  from  my  stand-point  and  interpreted 
by  those  maxims  of  human,  and  especially  of 
Arab,  nature  which  I have  been  led  to  adopt, 


RETRIBUTION. 


75 


bring  me  to  conclusions  very  different  from  those 
expressed  in  the  above  extract. 

[Note. — While  copying  these  notes,  I am 
able  to  add,  that  about  a month  after  the  date 
of  the  above,  Ameen  Effendi  himself  was  de- 
graded from  his  office,  bastinadoed,  put  in  irons 
and  thrown  into  prison,  and  all  that  most  justly, 
if  popular  report  concerning  his  crimes  be  true ; 
and  while  I was  calling  on  a friend  a few  days 
after,  an  agent  of  his  called  to  ask  most  humbly 
for  a loan  of  a few  thousand  piasters.  Now,  I think 
that  when  he  gave  judgment  against  those  poor 
men,  and  sat  over  them  during  its  execution,  he 
must  have* felt:  “I  myself  deserve  the  like  of 
that,  and  ten-fold  more,  and  my  reckoning  may  also 
come  to-morrow  and  that  this  feeling  would 
mitigate  his  severity,  and,  though  conscience 
might  be  dead,  selfishness  and  pride  would  lead 
him  to  conclude,  “ I,  too,  may  soon  need  the 
pity  and  good  offices  of  this  sympathizing  crowd 
of  spectators,  and  it  illy  becomes  me  now  to 
compromise  their  good  will  by  injustice  or  un- 
due severity.”  It  is  at  least  certain  as  to  this 
particular  case,  that  twenty-five  men  who  would 
desert  their  post,  and  leave  the  cane  of  a large 
district  exposed  to  the  depredations  of  the  vil- 
lagers around,  deserved  twenty-five  stripes  each ; 
and,  in  general,  I must  repeat,  and  sorry  I am 
that  I have  to  do  it,  that  more  cases  ff  unreason- 


76 


Egypt’s  princes. 


ing  barbarity  and  gross  injustice  have  fallen  un- 
der my  notice  committed  by  Franks  than  Arabs. 
The  difference  may  be  explained  on  various 
accounts.  The  ignorance  of  the  former  as  to 
many  of  the  customs  of  the  natives,  and  their 
consequent  mistakes  and  misunderstandings, 
their  nervousness,  caused  by  a debilitating  cli- 
mate, and  many  little  vexations  to  which  a resi- 
dence here  subjects  them,  and  the  different  and 
higher  code  of  right  and  wrong,  according  to 
which  they  judge — these  maybe  mentioned  as 
causes  of  the  difference.] 

But  this  long  digression  has  caused  me  to 
leave  far  behind,  John  Markus  and  his  fellow- 
scribes.  The  open ' ears  of  the  latter,  and  the 
watchful  eye  of  the  overseer  of  the  corps,  who 
was  sitting  before  an  open  window  in  an  adjoin- 
ing room,  did  not  allow  us  to  enter  into  religious 
discourse,  and  so  I invited  him  to  call  on  me  at 
the  boat,  in  the  evening,  and  bade  him  good 
afternoon. 

In  the  evening  he  came  with  two  of  his  sons, 
and  we  had  a long  conversation,  during  which 
he  asked  me  particularly  concerning  our  views 
of  justification  by  faith,  and  transubstantiation, 
and  we  spent  most  of  the  evening  in  the  discus- 
sion of  them.  He  was  from  X egad  eh,  and  had 
evidently  been  tampered  with  by  the  Catholic 
priests  there.  In  the  morning  he  came  again, 


BAKING. 


77 


bringing  with  him  a friend,  who  bought  a num- 
ber of  books.  The  rest  of  the  scribes  did  not 
buy,  as  they  said  they  had  already  been  sup- 
plied by  Monsur,  and  that  their  pay  being  in 
arrears,  they  had  no  ready  money. 

5 th.  Left  Erment  at  10  o’clock,  and,  with  a 
pleasant  breeze,  were  carried  to  Esneh,  which 
we  reached  in  the  evening. 

December  6th.  Spent  at  Esneh,  to  allow  our 
men  to  bake  bread.  They  had  purchased 
about  eight  bushels  of  wheat  at  Erment,  which 
they  here  had  ground  and  baked.  This  is 
their  usual  system.  They  generally  need  to 
stop  at  Osiout  and  Esneh  a day  for  that  pur- 
pose, but  as  we  had  had  an  unusually  quick  pas- 
sage to  Osiout,  the  supply  which  they  brought 
from  Cairo  lasted  them  to  Esneh.  The  bread, 
after  it  is  baked,  is  cut  up  into  slices  and  dried 
on  the  cabin  deck.  The  men  take  two  meals  of 
this  a day,  one  at  eleven  o’clock  and  the  other 
at  sunset,  and  they  prepare  it  for  mastication  by 
soaking  and  stirring  a sufficient  quantity  for 
each  meal,  in  a large  wooden  basin,  until  it  be- 
comes of  the  consistency  of  a thick  pudding, 
and  then  sitting  around  the  basin  as  closely  as 
possible  (spoon  fashion,  as  we  would  say),  they 
help  themselves,  each  with  his  right  hand,  which 
has  been  previously  washed  for  the  purpose,  and 
which  is  supposed  never  to  be  used  except  for 
pure  purposes.  It  is  marvellous  how  soon  they 
7s 


78 


EGYPT’S  PRINCES.. 


will  despatch  a dish  of  this  paste ; and  this,  with 
a raw  onion  and  a cup  of  coffee  following,  and 
with  a change  of  a dish  of  lentiles,  and  an  occa- 
sional sheep,  for  which  they  depend  on  the  lib- 
erality of  their  Khowajeh,*  these  form  their 
“ table  d’  bote and  it  is  remarkable  how  much 
hard  work  they  will  perform  on  so  slender  a fare. 
They  are  a most  docile  and  faithful  race,  and 
those  travelers  who  have  trouble  with  them  are 
usually  themselves  to  blame. 

Arming  myself  with  a letter  of  introduction 
which  the  Bishop  of  Luxor  had  given  me  to  the 
Kummus  Ibrahim,  I started  up  to  find  him,  and  to 
see  the  temple.  At  the  latter  I met  our  friends, 

Messrs.  -,  whose  dahabiyeh  had  kept  us 

company  most  of  the  way  from  Cairo.  The 
temple,  or  rather  portico  (for  it  alone  is  visible, 
having  been  cleared  out  by  order  of  Mahommed 
Ali,  in  1842),  is  very  magnificent.  The  guide- 
book says  it  was  built  by  the  Csesars ; but  I was 
greatly  amused  by  the  answer  of  our  friend’s 
dragoman,  who,  when  they  asked  him. who  built 
it,  answered,  “ Rameses  II. and  then  taking 
them  to  one  of  the  side  walls,  where  a large  bird- 
net  flourished  prominently  among  the  hiero- 
glyphics, informed  them,  with  an  air  of  true  an- 
tiquarian impudence  and  presumption,  “and  this 
is  his  cartoueh.”  Our  travelers  gazed  very 
sagely  at  the  confused  jumble  of  marsh-weeds 

* The  Frank  01  foreign  employer. 


TEMPLE  AT  ESNEH. 


79 


and  aquatic  fowls,  some  entangled  in  the  meshes 
of  the  net,  and  some  flying  away  as  if  frightened 
by  the  artist’s  flagrant  disregard  of  all  rules 
of  perspective,  the  birds  being  doomed  to 
soar  most  awkwardly,  with  one  wing  on  their 
backs,  and  the  other  on  their  breasts.  This 
was  about  enough  for  my  poor  risibilities ; but 
they  were  doomed  to  a farther  trial,  for,  stand- 
ing a few  moments  after, before  a pictured  column 
all  covered  with  hieroglyphics,  one  of  my  friends 
at  my  side  asked  me,  “Are  these  characters 
Arabic?”  I answered,  “No,  they  are  some 
other  language,”  and  turned  away*  musing  on 
the  mania  of  sight-seeing  and  lion-hunting. 

I went  to  the  church,  but  did  not  find  the 
Kummus  Ibrahim  in,  to  whom  my  letter  of  in- 
troduction was  addressed.  I then  started  through 
the  streets  inquiring  for  one  Keddes  Makarius, 
to  whom  I had  been  warmly  recommended  by 
Monsur  as  having  assisted  him  very  much  in 
selling  books,  in  a visit  which  he  had  made  to 
Esneh  some  weeks  previous.  After  a long  search, 
I found  that  he  was  not  in  town,  when  I again 
started  through  the  Christian  quarter  of  the 
town,  informing  those  whom  I met  that  we  had 
books  for  sale  in  the  Dahabiyeh,  and  also  for  the 
same  purpose  visiting  the  Christian  schools ; 
which  I found  wretchedly  kept,  the  one  by  a 
youth  who  was  a relation  of  the  bishop,  and  the 
other  by  two  blind  Areefs.  They  all  said  that 


80 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


they  had  been  supplied  by  Monsur,  and  I re- 
turned rather  discouraged  ; nor  did  any  one  call 
during  the  afternoon,  which  was  far  from  being 
a pleasant  one,  as  we  were  fastened  to  a dirty, 
dusty  bank,  and  were  constantly  annoyed  by 
beggars  and  Ghawaze.  Esneh  has  the  reputa- 
tion of  being  the  most  religious  town  on  the 
Nile,  but  it  had  disappointed  my  anticipations. 
Pleasanter  experiences,  however,  were  in  store 
for  the  future.  Left  towards  evening,  and  sailed 
all  next  day. 

1th.  The  winds  were  light  and  the  climate 
and  temperature  pleasant,  which  we  enjoyed 
very  much,  after  the  high  winds  and  piercing 
cold  which  we  had  experienced  most  of  the  way 
from  Cairo.  Saw  a crocodile  on  the  sunny  bank, 
the  first  we  had  seen.  In  one  place  we  saw  the 
peasants  plowing.  The  plow  had  two  handles 
and  a share  and  coulter,  rude  in  construction, 
but  more  western  in  shape  than  any  we  had 
seen  in  the  -East,  which  have  generally  only  one 
handle.  It  was,  however,  exactly  the  form  of 
those  in  use  centuries  ago,  as  depicted  on  the 
sculptures.  Nearer  the  water’s  edge, a man  was 
sowing  barley  on  the  strip  of  mud  which  had 
been  left  by  the  retreating  Nile.  He  sank  up 
to  the  thighs  in  mud  at  every  step.  This  was 
sowing  in  a good  and  deep  soil,  one  in  which  an 
abundant  harvest  might  be  anticipated  almost 
as  a certaintv.  There  were  neither  thorns  nor 


SOWING. 


81 


stony  places  ; still  there  was  danger  of  the  fowls 
of  the  air  devouring  it,  for  they  were  flying 
about  in  myriads,  and  the  sun  and  wind  had 
covered  the  surface  with  a thin,  dry  crust,  into 
which  the  seed  would  not  sink ; so  that  boys 
were  following  in  the  track  of  the  sower,  floun- 
dering in  the  mud,  and,  as  they  went,  harrowing 
in  the  seed  with  their  fingers.  Such  has  hitherto 
been  our  seeding  time  in  the  valley  of  the  Nile. 
W e have  found  a deep,  rich  soil  in  the  Egyptian 
mind.  In  the  little  patches  into  which  we  have 
been  able  to  cast  the  seed  of  the  Word  there  is 
promise  of  a golden  harvest,  and  already  a few 
handfuls  have  been  given  us  as  an  earnest  of  that 
harvest ; but  it  has  hitherto  been  the  lot  of  the 
sower  to  go  forth  with  weeping — waist-deep,  in 
a mire  of  difficulties.  “ But  he  shall  doubtless 
come  again  with  rejoicing,  bearing  his  sheaves 
with  him.” 

This  is  that  sowing  to  which  Solomon  exhorts, 
in  Ecc.  xi.  1 : “ Cast  thy  bread  upon  the  waters, 
for  thou  shalt  find  it  after  many  days.”  Some 
' commentators  understanding  too  literally  the 
particle  “ upon”  which  in  the  margin  is  given 
“ upon  the  face,”  have  gone  to  the  Indian  rice 
marshes  for  an  example  of  the  actual  casting  of 
the  seed  upon  the  surface  of  the  water.  But  the 
phrase  may  mean,  “ in  the  presence  of — beside  ” 
the  waters  ; and  this  agrees  with  the  fact,  as  we 
daily  witness,  of  the  peasants  going  forth  and 


82 


Egypt’s  princes. 


sowing  the  seed  beside  the  retreating  and  drying 
up  waters  of  the  river,  the  pools  and  canals,  and 
in  the  broad  fields  through  which  it  can  be  dis- 
tributed by  the  water-courses  ; and  the  prophet 
Isaiah  xxxii.  20,  says,  “Blessed  are  ye. that  sow 
beside,  literally  ‘ upon?  all  waters.”  This  use 
of  the  phrase  “ upon  the  waters  ” is  yet  common 
in  Arabic.  When  the  people  would  go  out  for 
a pleasure  excursion,  they  gather  up  their  pipes 
and  coffee-cups,  and  say,  “ Come,  let  us  go  and 
sit  upon  the  waters meaning  beside  the  waters, 
on  the  banks  of  some  neighboring  stream ; and 
the  converse  phrase  is  frequently  used  in  the 
Koran,  in  the  constantly  recurring  j^romise  to 
the  believer  of  “ Gardens,  beneath  which  flow 
rivers  of  waters.” 

Saturday  morning , the  8th — reached  Edfou,  and 
immediately  went  up  to  the  town,  which  is  about 
half  an  hour  from  the  river,  armed  with  a bag 
of  books,  and  an  introductory  letter  to  the 
priest.  Of  this  document  the  following  is  a 
translation  : 


[the  seal.] 

“ Makhiel , Bishop)  of  Esneh  : 

“ The  promulgation  of  this  perfect  blessing 
and  comprehensive  grace  is  unto  our  beloved 
son,  the  Priest  Makhiel.  May  God  bless  thee 
with  heavenly  blessings. 

“ We  inform  you  that  the  most  honorable  and 


A BISHOP  S LETTER. 


S3 

pure  priest,  Mr.  Lansing,  together  with  his  wife, 
who  are  our  most  particular  friends,  are  about 
to  leave  for  your  parts.  He  wishes  to  visit  and 
see  the  southern  country,  and  we  desire  you  to 
receive  him  with  a perfect  reception,  that  he 
may  return  praising  you.  And  that  you  treat 
him  with  the  honor  that  is  due  to  him,  since  he 
is  a man  of  learning  and  high  position  ; and  also 
give  peace  to  all  the  brethren  who  inquire  con- 
cerning us  ; and  may  the  most  high  God  preserve 
you. 

“ 1577,  25th  Hatur.” 

In  the  other  letter  which  he  gave  me  to  the 
priest  of  Esneh,  he  had,  “ In  the  name  of  the 
Lord  Jesus,”  in  the  introduction,  and  Monsur 
told  me  that  in  the  one  which  he  gave  him  he 
had  added,  “ And  in  the  name  of  Mary  and  the 
saints  and  martyrs  ” — a discriminating  mind!  I 
found  said  priest  Makhiel,  who  received  me  very 
cordially,  and  urged  the  people  to  buy  books. 
They  were  evidently  a poverty-stricken  people, 
but  they  took  books  to  the  amount  of  70  piasters, 
which  they  said  was  the  number  of  Christians 
in  the  town.  They  had  no  church,  but  worship- 
ped in  a convent  in  the  mountains.  One  of 
them,  an  intellio’eut-lookino-  man,  having-  heard 
of  our  school  in  Luxor,  expressed  a very  strong 
desire  that  they  might  also  have  a school  in 
Edfou,  and  said  that  he  himself  would  attend 


84 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


with  the  children.  I told  him  that  if  he  would 
read  the  Bible  with  diligence,  and  seek  the  en- 
lightenment of  the  Spirit,  he  would  learn  the 
truth,  which  the  priest  seconded  most  earnestly, 
saying,  “ The  Bible  is  the  life  of  the  soul.  It  is 
the  life  of  the  soul.”  Another  hesitated  at  tak- 
ing the  four  gospels,  in  Coptic  and  Arabic,  at 
20  piasters,  saying  that  it  was  dear ; when  his  wife 
(an  Abyssinian)  interposed,  saying,  “Do  you 
say  it  is  dear  at  20  piasters  ? — one  word  of  it  is 
worth  10,000.”  The  priest  invited  me  in  to 
coffee,  but,  poor  man,  he  had  only  a dark,  low- 
doored house  to  which  to  invite  me,  and  I pre- 
ferred remaining  outside  in  the  sun  and  filth, 
to  walking,  nay,  creeping  in.  I gave  them  an 
exhortation,  to  which  they  listened  very  atten- 
tively, and  I left  them  with  a much  more  favor- 
able impression  of  their  knowledge  and  piety 
than  Mr.  Jewett  obtained  on  his  Arisit.  He  at- 
tempted to  speak  to  them  through  his  interpreter, 
but  found  them  “ almost  destitute  of  ideas.” 
(Perhaps  his  interpreter  did  not  convey  or  awake 
many.)  He  found  that  none  of  them  could  read ! 
and  says,  “ It  was  impossible  to  suppose  that 
they  were  Christians,  on  any  better  ground  than 
because  their  parents  were  such.”  He  should 
have  known  them  better,  before  passing  so  harsh 
a judgment.  For  my  part,  I see  much  in  their 
Christian  character  to  admire,  and  I think  no 
one  can  be  intimately  acquainted  with  the  crafty 


MISSION  WORK. 


85 


ai  t and  unblushing  tyranny  win  eh  have  for  cen- 
turies been  employed  by  the  Muslems  to  seduce 
or  force  them  to  apostatize,  without  feeling  a 
deep  sympathy  with  their  sufferings,  and  admir- 
ation of  their  constancy. 

, I next  went  to  the  temple,  which  is  the  most 
perfect  one  in  Egypt,  and  must  excite  admira- 
tion in  all  beholders.  I would  be  tempted  to 
undertake  a description  of  it,  but  that  I have 
positively  determined  to  leave  the  ancient  Egypt- 
ians and  their  works  to  the  warm  imaginations 
and  glowing  pens  of  those  who  can  neither  un- 
derstand the  language  nor  appreciate  the  char- 
acter of  their  modern  descendants.  My  work  is 
with  the  latter,  and  I can  only  stop  to  express 
the  hope  that  the  building  of  the  temple  was  not 
such  a work  of  tyranny  as  the  clearing  out  of  it 
has  been.  Three  years  ago  the  government 
issued  an  order  to  have  the  rubbish,  which  by 
the  accumulation  of  centuries  had  almost  filled 
it,  cleared  away,  and  for  three  years  the  poor 
peasants  of  Edfou  and  the  surrounding  villages 
have  been  engaged  in  the  herculean  task,  and  of 
course  all  is  done  by  forced  labor.  The  inside 
has  been  all  emptied,  and  about  fifty  men  and 
children  were  at  present  engaged  in  removing 
the  heavy  bank  of  rubbish  which  had  accumu- 
lated around  the  outer  wall.  The  men  filled  the 
baskets  of  the  children  (boys  and  girls),  and  the 
latter  carried  them  away  on  their  heads,  and 


86 


Egypt’s  princes. 


emptied  them  on  a high  mound  adjoining.  The 
task-maker,  kurbaj  in  hand,  took  us  through  the 
temple,  when  he  sued  for  a present.  We  gave 
him  a small  coin,  and  a much  larger  one  to  the 
children,  who  in  his  presence  did  not  dare  raise 
the  usual  shout  for  bak-sheesh.  Perhaps  travel- 
ers would  not  manifest  so  much  impatience  at 
the  “ eternal  cry  of  bak-sheesh  ” (as  they  love  to 
call  it),  were  they  more  intimately  acquainted 
-with  the  circumstances  of  their  innocent  tor- 
mentors. Were  I called  upon  to  act  as  umpire 
in  this  controversy — a controversy  which,  I am 
ashamed  to  say,  is  too  often  settled  by  the  stick 
or  kurbaj,  with  which,  on  coming  to  Egypt, 
too  many  travelers  arm  themselves  (and  which, 
to  keep  up  the  fierce  prestige  of  their  new-grown 
beards  and  moustaches,  they  are  very  free  in 
using)-I  would  decide  that  each  decipherer  of 
hieroglyphics  and  admirer  of  ancient  temples 
should  pay  to  the  poor  people  who  disinterred 
them  a bak-sheesh  proportionate  to  their  admira- 
tion and  appreciation  of  them  when  uncovered. 

: Instead  of  this,  some  officious  or  (as  they  doubt- 
less esteemed  themselves)  public-spirited  travel- 
ers, have  complained  to  the  government  of  the 
annoyance  of  the  boys,  and  the  result  was  that 
a government  official  accompanied  us  all  through 
the  town  with  a long  naboot,  with  which  he  cru- 
elly belabored  the  poor  children.  So  inconsist- 
ent is  human  nature.  These  public-spirited  ones 


ESNEH. 


87 


will  whip  and  complain  of  the  boys,  and  at  the 
same  time  praise  the  liberality  and  public  spirit 
of  the  Pasha,  who,  to  gratify  his  foreign  guest, 
to  enrich  his  museum  with  the  antiques  which 
may  be  disinterred,  and  to  employ  the  faithful 
hands  and  crush  the  faithful  hearts  of  which  he 
has  so  many  thousands  at  his  disposal,  orders* 
the  work.  But  our  travelers  are  “ on  principle ,” 
opposed  to  the  system  of  giving  presents ! “ It 
encourages  mendicancy  and  indolence,  and  every 
evil  work.”  It  might  do  so  in  those  whom  want 
and  the  lash  do  not  force  to  be  industrious.  We 
think,  however,  that  a little  sympathy,  or  at 
least  consideration,  might  be  exercised  by  those 
who  bear  the  Christian  name. 

Learning  that  but  few  Christians  were  to  be 
found  between  Edfou  and  Assouan,  with  not  a 
very  large  community  at  the  latter  place,  we 
took  down  our  big  sail  and  turned  our  faces 
northward.  It  required  a little  self-denial  to 
turn  away  from  the  interesting  ruins  which  were 
yet  to  be  seen  on  the  way  to  the  first  cataract, 
and  especially  at  the  far-famed  Philoe;  but  sight- 
seeing must  be  made  a recreation,  not  a pursuit, 
until  the  seed  of  the  Word  shall  have  been  sown 
in  all  the  land  of  Egypt. 

We  left  Edfou  at  1 p.  m.,  and  floating  down 
the  river,  with  the  help  of  oars  and  a light  south 
wind,  reached  Esneh  at  midnight.  Rising  early 
next  morning,  I found  we  were  moored  below  the 


88 


Egypt’s  princes. 


town,  in  a much  quieter  and  pleasanter  place  than 
the  one  we  had  occupied  before.  On  the  bank 
above  was  a beautiful  acacia  grove,  and  just  be- 
low, a palace  which  was  built  by  Mohammed  Ali, 
with  a fragrant  garden,  and  an  old  dilapidated 
factory  in  the  back-ground. 

As  it  was  Sabbath  (the  9th),  I took  a hasty 
cup  of  coffee  and  light  breakfast,  and  hurried  up 
to  the  church,  which  I reached  just  after  sunrise. 
The  services,  which  had  begun  at  daybreak, 
were  already  far  advanced.  The  children,  at 
least,  had  been  there  long  enough  for  their  child- 
ish impatience,  for  they  were  very  restless,  and 
the  Kummns  Ibrahim  was  keeping  them  in  order 
with  a long  staff,  which,  as  I entered,  he  was 
freely  using  over  their  heads  and  shoulders, 
while  the  service  was  proceeding.  He  provided 
me  with  a seat  in  the  most  conspicuous  place  in 
the  church,  beside  the  reading-desk,  in  the  midst 
of  the  congregation,  who  were  seated  around  on 
the  floor,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  in  number. 
At  different  points  in  the  service,  however,  they 
rose  and  stood,  or  bowed  to  the  earth,  and  re- 
peated the  prescribed  prayers  and  responses. 
As  the  whole  was  in  Coptic,  which  I did  not 
understand  (nor  did  they),  I did  not  think  it  my 
duty  to  join  in  the  dumb  show,  and  kept  my 
seat.  This  seemed  to  act  as  a silent  reproof,  and 
I could  plainly  see  in  the  countenance  of  some 
around  me  an  expression  of  shame  at  their  mean- 


EGYPTIAN  CHILDREN. 


INVITATION  TO  PREACH.  8d 

ingless  performance.  In  the  meantime  the  blind 
Areefs,  three  in  number,  were  taking  the  lead 
most  lustily  in  the  chanting,  which,  together 
with  the  sound  of  the  loud  cymbals  which  they 
beat,  and  the  screams  of  the  boys,  who  chanted 
in  unison,  only  an  octave  higher  than  the  rest, 
made  an  almost  deafening  noise.  Soon,  how- 
ever, a homily  of  Chrysostom,  on  the  emigration 
of  Abraham  from  Ur  of  the  Chaldees  to  the 
land  of  promise,  was  read,  which,  though  not 
marked  for  depth  of  thought,  was  at  least  more 
satisfactory  than  the  Coptic.  A passage  was 
then  read  from  the  gospel  of  Luke,  first  in  Coptic 
by  the  Kummus,  with  all  the  circumstance  of 
candles,  incense,  etc.,  and  with  the  face  turned 
towards  the  east ; and  then,  in  Arabic,  by  a boy 
about  twelve  years  of  age,  and  with  his  face 
towards  the  west.  He  read  very  badly,  and  the 
people  were  constantly  correcting  him  from  all 
parts  of  the  house.  A servant  of  the  bishop 
being  present  from  Luxor,  I noticed  he  had 
some  conversation  with  the  Kummus  apart,  in 
which  I suppose  he  informed  him  that  I had 
preached  in  Luxor  on  the  Sabbath  before,  and 
the  Kummus  coming  forward,  invited  me  to 
speak.  I took  out  my  small  Testament,  and  as 
the  character  of  Abraham  had  previously  been 
held  up  to  them  in  the  homily,  I read  the  first 
four  verses  of  the  4th  of  Romans,  and  preached 
a sermon  on  the  free  justification  of  Abraham  by 
8* 


90 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


faith.  I prefaced  with  expressions  of  brotherly 
love  and  union,  telling  them  how  happy  I was 
to  unite  with  them  in  the  service  of  God,  and 
that  though  of  a different  race,  and  land,  and 
tongue,  we  were  yet  all  one  in  Christ ; that  we 
had  one  God  and  Father,  and  one  baptism,  and 
one  hope,  and  that  we  all  trusted  to  reach  the 
one  home  in  heaven,  prepared  for  all  the  people 
of  God.  I said,  however,  that  there  was  one 
drawback  in  our  Christian  communion,  viz.,  that 
I could  not  understand  and  unite  in  a large  por- 
tion of  their  services,  as  they  were  in  Coptic, 
which  to  me  was  incomprehensible,  and  that  one 
word  with  the  understanding  was  better  than 
ten  thousand  words  in  an  unknown  tongue ; at 
which  some  of  them  smiled,  as  if  to  say,  “ and 
to  us  also  they  are  incomprehensible.”  All, 
even  the  before  restless  boys,  arrested,  perhaps, 
by  the  novelty  of  the  thing,  gave  very  marked 
attention ; and  I was  particularly  struck  with  the 
intelligent  countenance,  and  hearty,  audible  ex- 
pressions of  assent  of  an  elderly  man,  who  was 
on  the  other  side  of  the  partition  which  sepa- 
rated the  men’s  from  the  women’s  department 
of  the  church,  and  whose  face  only  appeared  in 
a small  window.  His  name  I afterward  found 
to  be  Khaleel.  We  were  to  have  a more  intimate 
acquaintance,  as  the  sequel  will  show.  The 
commentary  was  next  in  order,  but  one  sug- 
gested that  my  sermon  would  answer  the  pur- 


INVITATION  TO  PREACH. 


91 


pose,  which  was  agreed  to  by  acclamation,  and 
it  was  dispensed  with,  and  they  proceeded  at 
once  to  the  mass.  This  was  performed  by  a 
young  priest,  and  I was  sorry  to  see  that  in  the 
midst  of  the  service  he  turned  round,  and  elevat- 
ing the  host  before  the  people,  said,  “ Bow  to 
God,”  which  they  did.  He  then  made  a circuit 
in  the  church,  bearing  it,  and  some  of  the  people 
said,  “ Blessed  be  he  that  cometh  in  the  name  of 
the  Lord.” 

The  services  closed  at  10  o’clock,  when  I 
gladly  staggered  out,  giddy  and  faint,  and 
almost  suffocated  from  the  dust  and  the  incense 
smoke,  and  my  head  reeling  from  the  confusion 
of  the  worshipers,  and  the  clash  and  clangor  of 
the  cymbals,  and  the  Coptic  prayers.  In  the 
passage-way  was  a seat,  and  I was  very  happy 
to  accept  the  invitation  of  the  Kummus  to  be 
seated  and  rest  awhile,  which  we  did  over  a cup 
of  coffee,  a number  of  people  seating  themselves 
around  on  the  ground.  A question  arising  con- 
cerning Paul’s  travels,  I took  the  ebony  staff  of 
the  Kummus,  and,  tracing  a rough  map  on  the 
ground,  pointed  out  to  them  the  track  of  his 
principal  missionary  tours,  but  my  geographical 
enthusiasm  carrying  me  beyond  the  bounds  of 
Paul’s  journeys,  to  England,  and  France,  and 
Russia,  I was  at  length  brought  back  by  the  re- 
mark of  one  present,  “ This  is  not  spiritual  con- 
verse!” It  was  Keddes,  whom  I before  men- 


92 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


tioned  as  not  being  in  town  when  I went  up, 
but  who  had  since  returned.  We  returned  to 
“ spiritual  converse,”  in  which  we  continued 
about  an  hour,  when  I returned  to  the  boat,  fol- 
lowed by  Keddes  and  two  others.  These,  after 
about  an  hour,  were  followed  by  the  Kummus, 
Khaleel,  and  two  others  ; and  these  again  by 
other  companies,  and  thus  the  day  was  spent  in 
“ spiritual  converse.”  I was  delighted  with  the 
acquaintance  with  the  Scriptures,  and  earnest- 
ness which  they  exhibited ; and  though  weak, 
and  pained  very  much  in  the  chest,  I was  able 
to  continue  the  conversation  until  near  sunset, 
when  they  at  length  gave  me  a “ breathing  spell.” 
A day  long  to  be  remembered : one  such  a day 
is  better  than  a thousand. 

After  they  had  left,  I went  up  for  a quiet 
stroll  and  meditation  in  the  acacia  grove  above, 
when,  passing  the  open  gate  of  the  factory  above 
mentioned,  my  curiosity  got  the  better  of  me, 
and  I stepped  in,  for  which  I came  near  paying 
dearly.  I noticed  about  the  premises  some  black 
men,  whom  I afterwards  found  to  be  Darfurians, 
but  the  thought  of  danger  from  them  did  not 
enter  my  mind.  So  thoroughly  tame  by  nature 
and  the  strong  hand  of  despotism  are  the  Egyp- 
tians, that  one  feels  everywhere  and  always  safe 
amongst  them.  But  I had  entered  only  a few 
paces,  when  I found  myself  surrounded  by  some 
twenty  or  thirty  of  them,  gesticulating  and  vo- 


DANGER  AND  ESCAPE. 


93 


ciferating  in  their  gibberish  in  a most  violent 
manner,  and  apparently  bent  on  mischief.  One 
of  them  especially,  a tall,  strapping,  half  naked 
fellow,  laid  hold  upon  me,  and  with  eyes  flash- 
ing like  those  of  a wild  beast,  and  with  inflated 
nostrils  and  raised  fist,  seemed  on  the  point  of 
striking,  and  I only  kept  him  at  bay  by  looking 
him  fixedly  in  the  eye  and  demanding,  with  all 
the  sternness  I could  command,  that  he  should 
let  me  alone.  He,  however,  did  not  understand 
me ; but  just  then  one  of  them  came  forward 
and  asked  me,  in  Arabic,  what  I wanted.  I 
told  him,  “Nothing,  only  that  I had  walked  in 
to  look  about  me,”  when  he  took  me  by  the 
other  arm,  and  attempting  to  drag  me  in,  said, 
“ Come,  and  I will  show  you.”  His  friendship 
was  evidently  little  better  than  the  hostility  of 
the  others,  and  my  apprehensions  were  brought 
to  the  highest  pitch,  when  I turned  and  saw 
three  or  four  of  them  tugging  away  at  the  heavy 
gate  to  shut  it.  I saw  that  no  time  must  be  lost, 
and  so  by  one  violent  effort  disengaging  myself 
from  the  grasp  of  my  officious  guide,  I walked 
out  faster  than  I came  in,  but  still  with  as  much 
deliberation  as  my  excjted  nerves  would  allow. 
Walking  off,  I met  a man  whom  I asked  who 
they  were.  He  told  me  they  were  Darfurians, 
who  had  been  brought  from  their  native  land  by 
the  government,  to  be  tamed  for  soldiers,  and 
that  they  were  detained  here  for  a time,  because 


94 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


the  winter  climate  at  Alexandria  was  too  severe 
for  them;  and  he  added,  without  knowing  any- 
thing of  my  adventure  with  them,  “ They  kill 
folks  when  they  get  them  inside.”  I scarcely 
need  add  that  I felt  most  grateful  for  my  narrow 
escape.  Just  before  leaving  Cairo,  I saw  and 
very  much  admired  a regiment  of  these  men, 
with  their  tasteful  uniform  of  scarlet  tarboushes, 
surmounting  their  jet  black  faces,  white  eyes 
and  teeth,  their  scarlet  jackets  with  silver  but- 
tons, and  blue  pants.  I thought  it  a great  im- 
provement on  the  dusty  brown  faces  and  dirty 
white  uniform  of  the  Egyptian  soldiers.  But  I 
shall  take  good  care  hereafter  to  keep  at  a good 
distance  from  them,  at  least  until  tamed. 

December  \0th.  When  I arose,  I found  Keddes 
and  Sedhum,  a tailor,  who  accompanied  him  yes- 
terday. The  former  asked  what  hour  we  took 
breakfast,  and  being  informed,  he  went  ashore  and 
spoke  to  a boy,  who  then  started  up  to  the  town, 
of  the  meaning  of  which  movement  I was  not  lone- 
left  in  the  dark,  for  the  boy  came  down  at  break- 
fast-time with  two  large  dishes  of  fateer,  the  one 
cooked  in  butter,  and  the  other  in  milk.  The 
fateer  is  composed  of  very  thin  unleavened  cakes 
thus  cooked  in  butter  or  milk,  and  then  plentifully 
sprinkled  over  with  fine  sugar.  And  it  is  deli- 
cious. He  had  brought  enough  for  a breakfast 
for  twelve  men,  and  besides  a large  bag  of  dried 
dates  for  our  journey.  It  was  a rich  present ; 


PASTS. 


95 


but  principally  pleasing  to  us  because  it  was  evi- 
dently given  in  the  name  of  a disciple — a disciple 
of  Him  who  has  said  that  “ a cup  of  cold  water 
thus  given,  shall  not  lose  its  reward.”  Poor 
Keddes  and  his  friend  would  not  sit  down  with 
us  to  breakfast ; when  I found  that  the  former 
was  fasting — literally  fasting,  and  not  merely 
exchanging  an  animal  for  a vegetable  diet,  as  is 
done  by  most  of  the  Eastern  Christians.  The 
Coptic  fasts  are  terribly  severe.  Taken  together, 
they  amount  to  about  seven  months  out  of  the 
twelve  ; and  it  is  the  custom  of  the  large  pro- 
portion of  the  people  to  taste  nothing  till  after 
the  daily  morning  prayers ; and  then  they  eat 
no  animal  food,  not  even  milk  nor  eggs.  The 
most  of  them,  during  Lent,  which  is  accounted 
the  holiest  of  the  fasts,  and  lasts  fifty-five  days, 
do  not  eat  till  noon — many  until  3 p.  m.,  and  the 
more  religious  until  sunset.  Of  this  last  number 
is  Keddes  ; though  this  is  not  Lent,  but  the  F ast 
of  the  Virgin.  I talked  with  him  and  his  friends 
a long  time,  endeavoring  to  teach  them  that  the 
Master  had  not  placed  upon  them  this  heavy 
yoke,  but  failed  to  convince  them.  He  utterly 
disdained  dependence  on  his  fasting  or  other 
works  in  the  matter  of  justification  and  accept- 
ance with  God,  but  contended  that  in  these 
warm  climates  they  needed  these  long  fasts,  in 
order  to  mortify  the  flesh  and  the  lusts  thereof. 
Poor  man,  I could  only  commend  him  to  that 


9G 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


great  Agent  in  our  sanctification,  who  is  held 
forth  in  the  Word — the  Spirit,  through  the 
truth.  I found  he  was  making  use  of  the  latter 
most  industriously.  On  a recent  visit  which  he 
had  made  to  Cairo,  he  had  purchased  a copy  of 
a Reference  Testament,  recently  published  at 
Beirut.  He  was  spending  his  evenings  until 
late  at  night  in  reading  this  in  course,  and  had 
got  as  far  as  the  9th  of  Matthew,  looking  out  all 
the  references.  What  a cold,  ease-loving  piety  is 
ours  ! Here  is  a man  fasting  and  laboring  all 
day  long  for  the  support  of  his  family,  and  at 
night  taking  his  light  repast  of  bread  and  vege- 
tables, and  then  sitting  down  over  his  little  lamp 
until  midnight,  and  after  it,  in  the  study  of  the 
Scriptures,  until,  although  yet  a young  man,  he 
has  already  almost  ruined  his  eyes  by  it.  He  is 
not  particularly  bright  in  intellect,  but  he  is  a 
most  earnest  character.  May  he  speedily  be 
brought  into  the  perfect  liberty  of  Christ ! And 
he  will  be  ; for  He  whose  word  is  truth  has  said : 
“ If  any  man  will  do  his  will,  he  shall  know  of 
the  doctrine and  also,  “ If  ye  continue  in  my 
word,  then  are  ye  my  disciples  indeed,  and  ye 
shall  know  the  truth,  and  the  truth  shall  make 
you  free.” 

His  friend  was  not  so  earnest  a character,  and 
seemed  to  be  somewhat  influenced  by  the  pride 
of  intellect ; but  he  had  proceeded  farther  than 
the  other  in  the  doctrinal  knowledge  of  Protes- 


A PROTESTANT  BOOK. 


97 


tantism.  His  narrative  of  the  process  by  which 
he  was  led  to  this  was  interesting.  He  said 
that  a book,  called  the  “ Thirteen  Letters,”  had 
fallen  into  his  hands  (it  is  one  of  the  Beirut 
publications,  written  by  Mr.  Bird  against  the 
papal  errors.)  He  commenced  reading  it,  when 
he  soon  found  that  it  did  away  with  confessions, 
the  mass,  the  priesthood,  image-worship,  etc., 
until  he  began  seriously  to  believe  that  it  would 
leave  nothing  of  the  Christian  religion,  and  was 
strongly  tempted  to  burn  the  book;  to  which 
also  the  friends  whom  he  consulted  strongly 
urged  him.  But  he  said,  “ I at  length  deter- 
mined to  read  it  through,  when,  instead,  I found 
that  it  only  did  away  with  what  was  supersti- 
tious, and  had  been,  superadded  to  our  religion, 
and  not  with  religion  itself;  and  so,”  he  said,  “I 
continued  reading  the  book,  and  am  now  very 
much  pleased  with  it.”  I afterwards  heard  that 
our  friend,  the  Kummus  Ibrahim,  had  been 
reading  this  book,  in  company  with  some  of  his 
people,  when  he  at  length  told  them,  “We  must 
quit  reading  this  book,  for  it  is  knocking  all  the 
pegs  (cogs)  out  of  our  wheel”  (referring  to  the 
well-known  water-wheel.)  ISText  to  the  Bible, 
Thomas  A’Kempis’  Imitation  of  Christ  was 
most  in  demand  with  them.  One  person  seeing 
Mrs.  Lansing’s  pocket  Testament,  wished  to  buy 
it,  though  in  English,  evidently  to  use  it  as  a 
charm. 


9 


98 


EGYPT  S PBINCES. 


A curious  incident  happened  yesterday.  The 
priest  who  had  performed  mass  in  the  morning, 
came  down  with  the  others.  The  servant  offered 
him  a pipe,  when  he  took  from  his  pocket,  and 
put  upon  the  mouth-piece,  a perforated  nipple 
of  wax,  through  which  he  smoked.  In  answer 
to  my  inquiry  why  he  did  so,  he  said  that  as  he 
had  partaken  of  the  consecrated  sacrament  in 
the  morning,  he  was  holy  for  the  day,  and  could 
not  smoke  from  a pipe  which  had  been  in  contact 
with  other  (profane)  lips.  The  idea  seemed  to  be 
that  he  was  charged,  as  it  were,  with  a holy  fluid, 
and  must  keep  himself  insulated  for  the  day. 
While  on  this  subject,  I may  mention  that  I have 
met  with  Copts  who  were  greatly  scandalized  by 
the  report  that  in  the  English  Church  in  Cairo 
what  remained  of  the  bread,  after  communion, 
had  been  eaten  by  the  servants — Muslems  and 
others.  The  Levitical  origin  of  this  prejudice 
is  manifest.  It  is  an  offshoot  from  a more  per- 
nicious error — viz. : there  is  still  in  the  Church 
a priesthood-  besides  that  of  Christ,  that  the 
.ministers  of  the  Church  are  priests,  who  Sabbath 
by  Sabbath  offer  up  in  behalf  of  the  people,  in 
the  mass,  a sacrifice  for  their  sins,  and  thus  their 
minds  are  turned  away  from  that  one  Sacrifice 
which  perfects  forever  them  that  are  sanctified,  to 
one  which  needs  daily  to  be  repeated,  and  which 
can  only  bring  into  remembrance,  but  cannot 
put  away  sin.  This  may  be  called  the  capital 


LUXOR. 


90 


error  of  the  Coptic  Church.  Oh,  that  she  might 
be  brought  to  see  that  the  holy  communion  is  a 
commemorative  and  not  a sacrificial  ordinance — 
that  in  it  Christ  is  offered  to  them,  and  not  to 
God;  and  that  He  possesses  an  everlasting 
priesthood,  and  can  have  no  successor  in  the 
office  ! If  the  Coptic  Church  could  be  convinced 
of  this,  and  could  be  persuaded  to  substitute  in 
her  worship  the  vernacular  for  dead  Coptic,  she 
might  be  considered,  a reformed  church ; but 
when  shall  these  two  corner-stones  be  laid  ? 

Left  Esneli  at  10  a.  m.,  and  reached  Ermeut 
at  4 p.  m.  Stopped  for  half  an  hour,  during 
which  time  I had  a short  interview  with  John 
Markus.  Reached  Luxor  in  the  evening,  but 
found  neither  Lord  IJaddo  nor  letters  from 
Cairo,  both  which  we  expected.  The  want  of 
them  left  us  in  doubts  as  to  what  our  future 
plans  should  be.  Determined  to  wait  a few 
days,  and  leave  all  to  the  disposition  of  Provi- 
dence. 

11  th.  Spent  the  evening  with  Mr.  M.  and 
company,  who  were  moored  in  their  dahabiyeli 
beside  us.  Mr.  M.  was  evidently  far  gone  with 
consumption.  (lie  afterwards  died  at  Cairo.) 
He  inquired  particularly  about  our  work,  and 
next  morning  sent  us  a note  containing  his  best 
wishes  for  our  success, and  a contribution  of  £5 — 
an  encouragement  to  us  in  our  work.  Oh,  that 
grace  and  wisdom  may  be  given  us  to  use  well 


100 


EGYPT S PRINCES. 


the  means  which  are  placed  at  our  disposal  by 
God’s  people  for  the  promotion  of  His  work ! 

12 th.  The  tenth  anniversary  of  our  first  de- 
parture from  Boston  for  the  Damascus  Mission. 
How  little  idea  did  we  then  have  of  either  the 
work  or  the  providences  then  awaiting  us,  or 
of  the  sad  destiny  which  then  impended  over 
that  dear  Damascus  Mission  to  which  we  then 
bent  our  steps  ! It  is  well  that  an  impenetrable 
veil  hangs  over  the  future ; and  now,  when  all 
is  past,  how  like  a dream  it  seems ! The  last 
farewell  and  last  receding  sight  of  that  honored 
parent,  whom  we  then  felt  we  were  not  to  meet 
again  in  the  flesh — the  long  wintry  voyage — 
the  first  strange,  vivid  impressions  of  oriental 
life — the  five  years  of  earnest  preparation  and 
buckling  on  the  armor  for  the  Eastern  work — 
and  just  as  that  work  was  opening  in  bright 
vista,  a sick  bed  and  another  departure  from  a 
dearer  home  — dearer  because  consecrated  by 
purer,  by  heavenly,  affections.  A short  sojourn 
among  the  exciting  scenes  of  the  fatherland,  and 
another  parting  scene,  with  three  bright  young 
faces  in  the  foreground,  one  of  them,  oh,  how 
soon  to  join  the  angelic  band  which  hovers  over 
this  checkered  pathway!  Alexandria,  with  its 
Babel  of  strange  tongues,  and  the  heavy  respon- 
sibilities of  a new  mission — another  fount  of  joy 
springing  up  in  the  new  and  now  desolate  home, 
so  soon  to  become  a river  of  affliction  to  wade 


PROSPECTS. 


101 


through— and  now,  in  this  still  night,  with  the 
ripples  of  the  classic  Nile  whispering  beside  me, 
and  the  wonderful  remnants  of  old  Thebes 
around,  just  entering  upon  a new  and  most  in- 
teresting enterprise  for  the  resuscitation  of  this 
ancient  and  apostolic,  but  now  sunken  Coptic 
Church.  These  are  the  outlines,  and  memory 
fills  them  up  with  light  and  shade  upon  much 
of  which  I would  not  dwell.  And  will  I be  per- 
mitted to  spend  another  decade  in  this  good 
work?  The  frail  flesh  and  this  pained  chest 
answer — No!  Yet,  O God,  grant  it,  if  such  be 
Thy  holy  will,  and  make  me  more  faithful  than 
ever  yet  I have  been  1 And  what  will  be  the 
results  of  other  ten  years  of  sowing  and  reap- 
ing in  this  fertile  valley  ? Egypt  has  her  Nile, 
and  it  has  made  her  what  she  is.  Oh,  that  that 
river,  the  streams  whereof  shall  make  glad  the 
city  of  our  God,  may  soon  overflow  its  banks, 
now  so  narrow  and  restricted,  and  carry  spiritual 
life  and  verdure  unto  the  uttermost  bounds  of 
this  now  barren  valley,  so  that  sower  and  reaper 
may  at  last  rejoice  together  ! 


9* 


CHAPTER  IY. 


December  13 th.  Heard  that  small-pox  was  rag- 
ing in  the  town.  Went  up  with  priest  Antonins 
to  ascertain  the  fact.  Seven  children  had  died 
in  the  bishop’s  family  (connection),  and  the  one 
to  whom  I was  now  taken  was  the  child  of  a 
slave  connected  with  the  family.  It  was  a sad 
and  most  affecting  sight.  The  passage-way  into 
the  house  was  close  and  confined,  and  reeking 
with  unhealthy  odors.  Just  at  the  door  of  the 
room  into  which  I was  led,  several  women  and 
children  were  standing,  as  if  entirely  unconscious 
of  the  deadly  infection  which  surrounded  them. 
The  room,  which  was  about  six  feet  square,  had 
no  window,  and  the  low  door,  opening  upon  a 
narrow  passage-way,  afforded  but  little  ventila- 
tion ; and  there  sat  the  poor  black  mother  with 
the  moaning  child  upon  her  knees,  in  the  worst 
stages  of  confluent  small-pox.  Myriads  of  flies 
were  swarming  around  its  little  face,  attracted  by 
the  filth  and  the  loathsome  disease.  I could  only 
prescribe  cleanliness  and  pure  fresh  air,  the  latter 
being  most  studiously  avoided  by  the  natives  in 
this  disease. 

Being  aware  that  the  Government  made  it 
(102) 


VACCINATION. 


103 


incumbent  on  the  barbers  of  the  town  to  vacci- 
nate the  children,  making  them  an  allowance  of 
a piaster  each,  for  all  the  children  born,  I im- 
mediately asked  to  be  taken  to  this  functionary 
that  I might  learn  the  reason  of  his  failure  to  do 
his  duty.  I found  him  sitting  in  his  shop,  mak- 
ing out  his  report  for  the  Government  of  the 
deaths  which  had  lately  taken  place.  I asked 
him  why  he  did  not  attend  to  his  duty  and 
vaccinate  the  children.  He  said  he  did  it  when- 
ever the  parents  would  bring  their  children  to 
him.  I asked  him  to  show  me  some  specimens 
of  his  work,  when  he  took  me  to  a house  and 
showed  me  a child  in  which  the  vaccine  had  evi- 
dently regularly  taken  elfect.  He  told  me  that 
the  people  were  very  unwilling  to  have  their 
children  vaccinated,  at  which  I could  not  be 
surprised  when  I recollected  the  cry  which  in  en- 
lightened England  was  raised  against  poor  Jen- 
nings, for  attempting  to  evade  the  decree  of 
Providence,  and  to  bestialize  his  species  by  in- 
troducing into  their  system  diseased  matter  from 
the  udder  of  cows.  I was  afterwards  informed 
that  the  unwillingness  of  the  people  had  a deeper 
foundation — that  it  resulted  from  the  fear  of  the 
inoculation  of  the  (so-called)  Frank  disease, 
which  is  fearfully  prevalent — the  result  of  the 
introduction  of  European  civilization,  or  rather 
licentiousness,  into  the  East;  and  at  Esneli,  some 
ten  days  previous,  I had  seen  a child  whose  arm 


104 


Egypt’s  princes. 


was  in  a dreadful  state  of  putrefaction  at  the 
usual  place  of  vaccination : (I  doubt  not  from 
this  cause,  though  at  the  time  I made  no  inquiries 
into  the  matter,  as  I had  no  intimation  of  the 
prevalence  of  the  disease  in  the  country.)  The 
people  also  seemed  to  want  confidence  in  the 
protective  power  of  vaccination,  as  they  said 
that  a number  of  children  had  died  who  had 
been  vaccinated.  I think,  however,  that  in 
these  cases  the  children  may  have  taken  the  in- 
fection before  they  were  vaccinated.  I was  told 
that  many  of  the  parents  bribed  the  barber  not 
to  vaccinate  the  children ; that  he  tken  sent  in 
his  reports  to  the  government,  and  received  his 
piaster  for  each  child,  and  that  when  they  died 
of  small-pox,  he  reported  them  as  having  died  of 
some  other  disease.  He  himself  told  me  that 
many  of  the  children  who  were  dying  daily  were 
dying  of  scarlet  fever,  but  I saw  no  case  of  this 
disease. 

To  finish  this  subject,  while  upon  it,  I may  say 
that  I immediately  sent  to  Cairo  a statement  of 
the  case,  to  be  laid  before  the  sanitary  depart- 
ment, and  also  a request  for  fresh  vaccine  mat- 
ter, as  they  said  they  would  allow  me  to  vaccin- 
ate their  children.  The  result  of  the  former 
was  the  sending  of  most  stringent  orders,  and 
the  adoption  of  new  measures  to  secure  the  de- 
sired end,  by  which  the  sheiks  of  the  town  were 
made  responsible  in  the  matter,  under  threat  of 


NEW  MEASURES  FOR  VACCINATION. 


105 


very  severe  penalties.  This  caused  no  small  stir 
among  the  latter,  and  I was  then  glad  that  in 
sending  the  complaint  I had  taken  the  precau- 
tion to  request  that  my  name  should  not  appear 
in  the  matter,  as  I would  otherwise  have  brought 
upon  myself  their  high  displeasure.  I was  pres- 
ent soon  after,  when,  the  Nazir  having  come 
from  Ghinneh,  they  came  to  him  in  a body,  bit- 
terly complaining  of  the  new  arrangement,  but  he 
summarily  drove  them  from  his  presence.  The 
whole  would  probably  result  in  their  paying  him 
a heavy  bribe  to  be  released  from  the  onerous 
new  arrangements,  and  then  matters  would  go 
on  in  the  old  way ; so  hard  it  is,  even  when  the 
government  has  good  intentions,  to  have  them 
carried  out.  During  the  whole  of  the  three 
months  of  our  stay,  the  disease  prevailed.  I 
cannot  say  how  many  children  were  carried  off 
by  it,  but  I think  that  from  one  hundred  to 
one  hundred  and  fifty  is  a low  estimate.  Fu- 
neral processions,  with  the  blind  sheiks  in  front 
chanting  the  Mohammedan  confession,  and  the 
mourning  women  with  their  piercing  shrieks, 
in  the  rear,  the  little  corpse  wrapped  in  a cloth, 
borne  in  an  ojjen  bier  on  the  head  of  a man, 
passed  our  door  with  hasty  steps  nearly  daily, 
and  the  doleful  wail  of  the  bereaved  mothers 
could  almost  constantly  be  heard  by  day  and  by 
night.  Mr.  Ridgeway,  an  English  traveler,  took 
the  infection,  as  he  thought,  at  Gournou,  on  the 


106 


Egypt’s  princes. 


opposite  side  of  the  river,  where  he  came  into 
contact  with  a case  of  it,  and  was  long  detained 
by  it  at  Osiout,  on  his  way  down,  when  his  wife 
took  it  from  him,  and  died  at  Cairo.  I was  Sub- 
sequently informed  that  the  disease  was  also 
prevalent  at  Esneh,  but  my  informants  seemed 
afraid  to  give  me  the  facts  particularly. 

The  prevalence  of  this  loathsome  disease  added 
another  element  of  doubt  to  the  question  which 
during  this  week  was  engaging  our  anxious 
thoughts,  viz.,  whether  we  should  return  imme- 
diately to  Cairo  in  the  “_/§*$,”  or  remain  at 
Luxor,  and  send  her  back.  Into  the  pros  and 
cons  of  this  question  I need  not  now  fully  enter. 
Suffice  it  to  say,  in  brief,  that  on  the  one  hand 
the  work  seemed  evidently  to  demand  our  re- 
maining. It  had  thus  far  prospered  beyond  our 
most  sanguine  expectations.  There  was  already 
a school  of  over  forty  children,  and  it  in  the 
church ; and  to  have  the  permission  of  preaching 
in  the  same  church  every  Sabbath  with  an  au- 
dience of  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred 
souls,  besides  the  opportunities  which  were 
daily  offering  of  selling  books,  and  conversation 
on  religion  with  a people  who  seemed  so  ready 
to  hear,  gave  advantages  for  the  pursuance  of 
our  work  which  could  not  be  lightly  foregone. 
At  the  same  time,  I saw  that  the  bishop  was  a 
man  who  would  need  so  much  of  politic  manage- 
ment, that  the  future  prosperity  of  the  work 


MISSION  WORK. 


107 


depended  very  much  on  the  continuance  of  his 
good  will,  at  least  until  the  truth  should  obtain 
a footing  in  the  hearts  of  the  people ; and  that 
Monsur,  though  he  had  done  nobly,  was  quite 
unequal  to  cope  with  his  craft,  and  was  also, 
becoming  disgusted  with  his  duplicity,  as  well 
as  repelled  and  discouraged  by  the  apparently 
hopeless  degradation  of  the  people — a feeling 
which,  however  natural,  would,  I saw,  if  not 
checked,  preclude  his  further  usefulness,  (for  this 
people,  like  any  other,  in  order  to  he  raised  from 
their  abject  state,  must  he  heartily  grasped  in  the 
arms,  and  not  merely  touched  with  the  finger- 
ends,)  so  that  I concluded,  should  I go,  it  would 
be  expedient  to  take  him  with  me,  which  would 
look  far  too  much  like  putting  our  hands  to  the 
plow  and  then  looking  hack.  Then,  too,  the 
state  of  our  health,  which  had  been  the  first 
occasion  of  our  coming,  demanded  that  we  should 
remain.  Mrs  L.  was  still  weak,  and  the  pain  in 
my  chest,  with  which  I left  Cairo,  had  increased, 
instead  of  diminishing,  with  the  cold  winds 
which  we  had  experienced  most  of  the  way  up, 
and  we  felt  that  it  would  be  imprudent  to  go 
hack  in  mid-winter  to  the  rains,  and  mud,  and 
dampness  of  Alexandria.  On  the  other  hand,  I 
was  sure  that  poor  Mr.  Hogg  and  the  work 
there  needed  my  presence  and  the  help  which  I 
could  render.  Besides  this,  it  was  not  pleasant 
to  think  of  going  up  to  a native  house  and  send- 


108 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


ing  back  our  boat,  without  knowing  when  she 
might  be  able  to  return  to  us,  and  especially  so 
from  the  prevalence  of  small-pox,  and  in  case  of 
sickness,  we  would  be  far  out  of  the  reach  of 
medical  aid.  These  were  the  main  reasons  which 
weighed  on  either  side.  We  considered  them, 
and  endeavored  to  commit  our  way  to  Him  who 
is  the  breaker  up  of  their  way  before  his  people, 
and  can  deliver  from  the  “ noisome  pestilence,” 
and  protect  from  the  “ destruction  that  wasteth 
at  noon-day,”  and  finally  we  concluded  to  remain. 

December  1 ith.  The  bishop  sent  for  me  on 
the  matter  of  the  new  school-room.  He  wanted 
two  things : First,  a master-mason  from  Esneh 
to  sketch  a plan  for  him ; and  second,  the  mo- 
ney to  commence  with.  As  to  the  former,  I 
gave  him  a plan  which  met  with  his  approval, 
though  in  conversing  with  him  on  the  subject, 
I found  that  he  had  his  mind  fully  as  much  bent 
on  securing  a store-room  for  his  crops,  as  a 
school-room  for  the  children,  (the  former  occu- 
pying for  the  present  one  of  the  three  upper 
rooms,)  and  so  I shaped  my  plans  for  the  accom- 
plishment of  the  double  purpose,  with  which  he 
was  w%ll  contented.  As  for  the  money,  I de- 
termined, as  far  as  possible,  to  keep  it  in  my 
own  possession,  and  a matter  of  hope  with  him, 
depending  for  its  gradual  realization  on  the  con- 
tinuance of  his  favor;  and,  in  fine,  to  trust  him 
with  no  more  than  would  be  a fair  rent  for  our 


SCHOOL  BUILDING  BEGUN. 


109 


present  quarters,  the  church,  and  so  I gave  him  a 
pound.  He  asked  what  a pound  would  do  to- 
wards building  a school,  and  I told  him  that  it 
Avould  at  least  begin  the  work,  and  that  then  we 
would  see.  I soon  found  that  it  would  go  a 
good  way  in  his  manner  of  working,  which  was 
to  send  his  slave,  Sarur,  with  his  camel,  for  the 
stones,  his  servant  Bakhum  cutting  them,  and 
the  boys,  of  whom,  as  is  the  custom,  the  con- 
gregation always  leaves  at  his  disposal  a few,  (as 
Levites,  “ to  do  the  service  of  the  sanctuary,”) 
carrying  the  bricks  and  materials,  and  clearing 
away  the  rubbish  for  the  foundation.  Only  two 
or  three  men  receiving  wages  were  employed, 
and  his  reverence  sat  by  most  of  the  time,  in  his 
morning  dishabille  and  episcopal  staff,  overseeing 
the  work.  He  was,  after  all,  very  well  contented 
with  what  I gave  him,  and  insisted  on  com- 
mencing the  work  on  the  morrow,  (Saturday,) 
though  I finally  persuaded  him  to  delay  it  till 
Monday. 

December  1 5 th.  Spent  in  preparing  for  the 
services  of  the  morrow,  the  “lesson”  to  be  read 
being  Luke  i.  23-38. 

December  I Qth.  The  pain  in  my  chest  and 
side  was  so  severe  that  I could  scarcely  draw  on 
my  boots,  and  drag  myself  up  to  the  church.  I 
feared  much  that  I should  not  be  able  to  preach, 
but  commenced,  and  soon  found  that  the  excite- 
ment made  me  forget  all  my  pains.  The  text 
10 


110 


Egypt’s  princes. 


gave  me  an  opportunity  of  explaining  our  senti- 
ments concerning  the  Virgin  Mary.  The  Copts 
generally  have  two  great  charges  against  Pro- 
testants, the  origin  of  which  I could  never  learn. 
The  one,  that  we  pray  upon  the  house-tops;  and 
the  other  that  we  say  that  the  Virgin  was  a box, 
or  casket,  containing  a precious  jewel — that  the 
jewel  was  taken,  and  the  casket  left  empty,  and 
no  better  than  any  other  ; and  that  in  general  we 
speak  against  her.  I told  them  that  this  was  a 
slander,  and  false— that  we  never  spake  against 
her,  but  in  her  praise — that  as  she  herself  had 
prophesied  that  all  generations  should  call  her 
blessed,  so  we  did — that  we  always  said  that  she 
was  the  “Blessed  among  women,”  and  the  highly 
favored  of  the  Lord, — that  he  was  “ with  her,” 
and  distinguished  her  while  on  eai'th  above  all 
other  women  that  had  ever  lived, — and  that  she 
was  now  with  Him,  happy  and  perfect,  and  glo- 
ried in  heaven, — but  that  while  saying  all  this 
concerning  her,  we  said  nothing  to  her, — that  as 
she  is  in  heaven,  and  we  on  earth,  she  could  not 
hear  us,  nor  should  we  address  her, — and  that  as 
neither  the  angel  Gabriel,  nor  Elizabeth,  nor  any 
one  else,  is  represented  in  Scripture  as  speaking 
to  her,  except  when  present  with  her,  so  we  could 
not  speak  to  her  until  we  should  enter  heaven  to 
be  with  her,— that,  therefore,  we  never  prayed  to 
her  nor  sought  her  intercession,  as  we  knew  that 
the  Son  was  the  only  intercessor  and  mediator 


THE  VIRGIN  MARY. 


Ill 


between  God  and  naan, — and  in  short  that  we  did 
not  allow  her  nor  any  one  else  to  usurp  his  office, 
nor  depend  on  them  to  perform  his  work  of 
saving  us.  This  talk  I noticed  pleased  the  peo- 
ple, but  made  his  reverence  quite  nervous,  until 
seeing  that  he  was  on  the  point  of  stopping  me, 
I went  on  to  the  second  head  of  my  discourse, 
viz. : The  human  and  divine  natures  of  the  Son, 
which  as  I took  pains  not  to  use  the  phrases 
which  are  so  obnoxious  to  their  monophysite 
dogma,  viz. : “ two  natures  in  one  person,” 
pleased  them  much.  I told  them,  which  is  the 
fact,  that  that  whole  controversy  between  them 
and  the  other  sects  is  a mere  verbal  one,  they 
using  the  word  nature  in  the  sense  in  which  the 
others  use  person,  and  that  we  all  agree  that  our 
Saviour  was  perfect  God  and  perfect  man  united 
in  one,  and  that  this  alone  was  necessary,  as 
neither  the  term  nature  nor  person  Avas  used 
in  the  Scriptures.  With  this  they  seemed  con- 
tented, and  I closed  with  an  application  to  the 
women,  telling  them  that  Mary  was  a poor  hum- 
ble fellaha,*  such  as  they  were,  and  that  they,  too, 
should  strive  to  please  God,  and  that  they,  too, 
might  be  favored  and  distinguished  by  him  to  be 
mothers  of  sons  Avho  should  prove  blessings  to 
the  Church  and  to  the  world. 

After  sermon  I strove  to  beg  off  from  remain- 
ing to  the  mass,  whispering  to  the  bishop  thru,  I 

* Peasant,  or  member  of  the  lower  class. 


112 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


was  not  well ; but  he  insisted  on  my  remain- 
ing, as  he  said  it  would  be  a great  shame  to 
leave  before  the  Kuddas,  and  the  people  would 
think  strange  of  it;  and,  moreover,  that  they 
would  soon  be  through  with  it.  Thus  I was 
forced  again  to  sit  by  while  they  went  through 
with  the  meaningless  ceremony.  It  was  gone 
through  with  in  a hurry,  which  made  it  even  a 
greater  farce  than  usual.  The  bishop  charged 
the  officiating  priest  before  entering  the  “hey- 
kel”  to  make  haste,  and  the  latter  threw  about 
him  his  priestly  robes  and  addressed  himself  to 
the  task  in  hand  with  all  his  might,  his  tongue 
running  at  even  a more  fearful  rate  than  usual ; 
the  bishop  meanwhile  occasionally  crying  out 
from  his  seat  outside,  “ Kowam,  Kowam,  quick, 
quick,  skip  that,  skip  that and  this,  with  the 
poor  Copts,  is  what  has  been  substituted  for  the 
Lord’s  Supper ! How  different  from  that  solemn, 
edifying  ordinance  with  us ! 

llth.  Moved  up  to  the  house  of  Mustapha 
Aga.  As  that  worthy  had  not  yet  made  his 
appearance  from  Cairo,  though  daily  expected, 
we  will  leave  a formal  introduction  of  him  for  a 
future  occasion,  and  at  present  introduce  our 
readers  to  his  house,  a room  of  which  was  to  be 
our  quarters  for  three  months  to  come.  Par- 
allel with  the  river,  and  on  a rising  ground, 
sloping  down  to  it,  extend,  800  feet  in  length, 
the  “disjecta  membra”  of  one  of  the  ancient 


A TEMPLE  HOME. 


113 


temples  of  Tliebes.  This  vast  skeleton  is  at 
present  deeply  imbedded  in  sand,  and  covered 
with  the  mud-huts  of  modern  Luxor.  Keeping 
up  the  figure,  its  ribs  may  not  inaptly  be  called 
the  double  row  of  columns,  twelve  in  number, 
which  are  twelve  feet  in  diameter,  and  from 
thirty  to  forty  in  height,  with  wide-spreading 
capitals,  representing  the  full-blown  lotus,  and 
superincumbent  architrave  of  huge  blocks  of 
stone  of  corresponding  dimensions.  This  double 
colonnade  forms  the  pretentious  portico  to  the 
house  of  Mustapha  Aga,  the  most  pretentious 
house  of  the  most  pretentious  personage  in  the 
village.  From  its  roof  a man  daily  scrambled 
up,  by  the  help  of  a palm  trunk,  to  the  top  of 
the  colonnade,  and  from  a flag-staff  on  each  end 
suspended  the  American  and  British  flags — for 
Mustapha  is  the  Consular  agent  for  these  two 
powers. 

The  house  is  built  against  and  partly  between 
the  hindermost  row  of  columns,  between  two 
of  which  is  the  front  door,  entering  into  the 
hall,  on  the  left  of  which  is  the  Consular  office, 
and  on  the  right  our  room,  with  a small  store- 
room adjoining,  and  a small  unglazed  window 
opening  upon  a platform  between  the  next  two 
columns,  and  raised  about  four  feet  from  the 
ground.  To  this  platform  I often  retired  with 
my  Christian  friends  who  did  not  feel  free  to 
converse  among  the  Muslems  in  the  more  public 
10* 


114 


Egypt’s  princes-. 


hall ; and,  by  way  of  being  classic,  I used  to  call 
it  my  “Exhedra,”  while  the  hall,  in  which  I had 
daily  earnest  discussions  with  the  Muslems,  I 
oalled  “ the  Portico.”  The  Exhedra  commanded 
a . view  of  the  open  space  between  us  and  the 
river,  which  was  the  place  of  general  assemblage, 
or  “place  de  la  Concorde”  (discord)  of  the  vil- 
lage— the  Dahabiye^  of  the  traveler — of  which 
there  were  usually  from  six  to  a dozen  bound  to 
the  bank  below;  and  in  the  background  the  vast 
green  plain  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  with 
its  scattered  temples  and  the  vocal  Memnon  and 
his  mute  companion  immediately  in  front,  re- 
ceiving day  by  day,  in  silent  and  majestic  dignity, 
the  first  salutations  of  his  “ beloved  Aurora ;” 
and  again  behind  it,  the  bold  circling  amphi- 
theatre of  tomb-perforated  hills.  This  was  the 
picture  of  Thebes  as  it  is , which,  day  by  day, 
sunk  deeper  and  deeper  into  my  mind,  and  can 
never  be  effaced. 

Within,  our  dark  little  room  looked  gloomy 
enough,  and,  with  its  rugged  brick  floor  and 
mud-plastered  walls,  (which  having  ordered,  pre- 
paratory to  our  occupation,  to  be  whitewashed, 
I found,  on  coming  up  to  it,  had  been  bespat- 
tered with  lime-water,  no  such  a thing  as  a 
brush  being  to  be  found  in  Luxor,)  and  its  roof 
of  split  palms,  it  was  primitive  enough.  And 
when,  having  sent  up  our  little  effects,  and  seen 
the  “Ibis”  spread  her  sails  for  the  northward 


STYLE  OF  LIVING. 


115 


flight  through  “the  land  of  the  overshadowing 
wings,”  I went  up  to  it  and  found  Mrs.  L.  ar- 
ranging our  simple  furniture,  it  looked  truly 
desolate ; and  had  she  given  me  the  least  coun- 
tenance in  so  doing,  we  would  have  sat  down 
for  a turn  of  tlm  blues,  and  repentance  for  the 
step  we  had  taken.  But  she  did  not.  Slower 
than  I had*  been  in  coming  to  the  conclusion  to 
remain,  yet  she  was  now  prepared  to  meet  with 
cheerfulness  all  that  it  involved,  and  before  night 
I had  evidence  that  female  hands  can  make  the 
most  desolate  place  look  home-like,  and  all  was 
well  again.  Our  style  of  living  was  very  simple. 
A settee  on  each  side  of  the  room,  which  served 
for  beds  by  night ; a few  small  mats  on  the  floor, 
a deal  table  from  the  school-room,  and  two  chairs, 
three  cups  and  saucers,  ditto  knives  and  forks, 
and  a few  plates.  Robinson  Crusoe,  in  his  desert 
isle,  possessed  many  more  of  the  comforts  of  a 
civilized  state.  We  learned  how  few  are  the 
necessaries  of  life,  and  with  how  little  one  can  live 
and  be  happy.  As  to  outward  circumstances, 
Diogenes  in  his  tub  could  scarcely  have  envied 
us.  As  to  real  happiness  and  solid  content- 
ment of  mind,  a king  upon  his  throne  might. 

18^/i.  Yakob  the  scribe,  in  the  “ Shoneh,”  or 
government  depot,  who  afterwards  became  our 
fast  friend  and  most  hopeful  disciple,  called  with 
a friend  from  Pesht,  a neighboring  village,  and 
we  had  a long  and  very  interesting  conversation 


116 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


on  the  vitals  of  religion.  On  leaving,  they  re- 
quested me  to  appoint  a time  when  they  might 
come  every  day  to  receive  instruction.  I feared 
that  such  a step  might  awaken  the  suspicions  and 
jealousy  of  the  bishop  and  priests,  and  so  told 
them  that  I would  see  the  latter,  and  have  the 
time  appointed  when  I might  meet  not  only 
them,  but  others,  at  the  church,  o’r  bishop’s 
house.  To  this  they  answered  very  significantly, 
“That  will  not  answer  their  purpose.”  And 
when,  on  calling  on  the  bishop  in  the  afternoon, 
I proposed  the  matter,  I found  they  were  right. 
Pie  said  the  people  were  stupid,  and  took  no  in- 
terest in  religion,  and  would  not  come  together. 
I saw  where  the  difficulty  lay,  and  for  the  pres- 
ent did  not  urge  the  matter.  He,  however,  went 
on  to  say,  in  reference  to  my  last  Sabbath’s  ser- 
mon, that  I would  have  to  be  very  cautious  what 
I taught  the  people;  that  as  yet  they  could  not 
bear  sound  doctrine;  that  I would  have  to  ad- 
vance step  by  step  and  very  gradually ; and 
especially  that  I would  have  to  be  very  careful 
not  to  say  anything  against  the  “holy  mistress,” 
(Mary;)  that  they  loved  her  very  much,  and 
would  not  endure  to  hear  anything  against  her. 
I asked  him  whether  what  I had  said  was  true, 
lie  answered,  “Yes.”  Then  I said,  “The  truth 
never  yet  harmed  one,  and  as  for  the  people, 
I will  take  the  responsibility  of  their  being 
offended.”  The  truth  was,  that  my  doctrine 


HINTS  FROM  THE  BISHOP. 


117 


had  pleased  all  who  heard  me  except  himself.  I 
felt  strongly  tempted  to  break  with  him  at  once, 
and  especially  so  when,  in  the  evening,  Monsur 
informed  me  that  he  had  turned  the  most  prom- 
ising boy  out  of  the  school,  on  account  of  a pri- 
vate quarrel.  The  bishop  has  an  aged  sister 
living  with  him.  This  ancient  dame,  it  seems, 
had  been  in  the  habit  of  patching  up  the  episco- 
pal revenues  by  writing  and  selling  charms  to 
the  people;  and  the  “head  and  front”  of  this 
boy’s  offending  was,  that  he  had  shown  disre- 
spect to  one  of  these  charms : indeed  he  had 
torn  it  in  pieces  and  thrown  it  into  the  Nile. 
This  was  an  act  of  high  daring  which  would 
greatly  endanger  the  craft  in  the  estimation  of 
the  people,  and  could  not  be  suffered  to  go  un- 
punished, and  the  decree  Avent  forth  that  the 
boy  must  leave  the  school.  Monsur  had  pro- 
tested and.  entreated,  but  to  no  avail ; and  I too, 
though  strongly  tempted  to  make  it  the  break- 
ing point,  was  fain  to  keep  silent.  The  school 
Avas  in  the  church,  and  by  means  of  our  friend- 
ship, holloAV  though  it  Avas,  we  were  enjoying 
golden  opportunities  of  reaching  the  people. 
Had  the  bishop  been  alone,  it  would  have  been 
a very  easy  matter  to  throw  him  overboard  at 
once  ; but  I knew  the  strength  of  the  chain  of 
priestcraft  by  which  the  poor  ignorant  people 
were  bound  to  him,  and  for  their  sakes  I deter- 
mined to  put  off  the  evil  day  as  long  as  possible. 


•118 


Egypt’s  princes. 


19 th.  The  bishop  sent  a turkey  and  twenty 
loaves  of  bread.  The  servants,  who  brought 
them,  lingered  about  as  if  their  commission  did 
not  end  with  the  delivery  of  the  present,  and  so 
I gave  them  a present  in  money  to  the  full  value 
of  the  articles  brought,  for  doing  which  his 
reverence,  on  calling  the  next  day,  administered 
a gentle  reproof,  and  I protested  that  it  was 
nothing,  only  a little  present  to  have  the  young 
men  drink  a cup  of  coffee,  and  keep  them  in 
good  humor,  and  that  his  reverence  was  drown- 
ing us  in  the  sea  of  his  bounty,  etc.  Oriental 
compliments  these,  admirably  adapted  to  pro- 
mote reciprocal  good  feeling. 

Hearing  very  near  our  house  a more  bitter 
death- wail  than  usual,  I went  up  to  the  roof, 
when  I beheld  a company  of  women,  in  the 
court  of  our  next  neighbor’s  house,  gesticulating 
and  dancing  in  their  usual  frantic  manner,  the 
men  at  the  same  time  violently  walking  to  and 
fro  in  the  street,  giving  vent  to  their  exclama- 
tions of  grief.  As  such  scenes  afterwards  be- 
came very  familiar  to  us,  I will  here  give  in 
order  a few  points  of  Scripture  illustration 
which  they  suggested  to  my  mind,  some  of 
which  were  new  and  very  striking  to  me. 

1st.  Covering  the  face  and  lips.  I noticed  the 
men  above  mentioned  had  each  a kind  of  shawl 
wound  around  the  head  and  lower  part  of  the 
face,  their  ordinary  turbans  being  removed. 


ORIENTAL  MOURNING. 


119 


Ifiey  were  also  barefooted,  and  I was  particu- 
larly struck  with  the  manner  in  which  they 
carried  their  faces  upwards,  never  looking  to- 
wards the  ground,  which  (being  so  contrary  to 
our  ideas  of  the  effects  of  grief  as  bowing  the 
mourner  to  the  earth,)  together  with  their  un- 
usually quick  step,  and  short  vehement  expres- 
sions, caused  me  for  some  time  not  to  recognize 
them  as  mourners,  and  their  conduct  quite  puz- 
zled me  until  I understood  their  expressions. 
I was  afterwards  very  much  struck  with  the 
agreement  of  all  this  with  the  following  expres- 
sions, Ezek.  xii.  6 : “ Thou  shalt  cover  thy  face, 
that  thou  see  not  the  ground,  for  I have  set  thee 
for  a sign  to  the  house  of  Israel,”  and  verse  12. 
Ezek.  xxiv.  17:  “Forbear  to  cry,  make  no 
mourning  for  the  dead,  bind  the  tire  (turban)  of 
thine  head  upon  thee , and  put  on  thy  shoes  upon 
thy  feet , and  cover  not  thy  lips , and  eat  not  the 
bread-  of  men,”  and  verses  22  and  23.  Also 
Micah  iii.  7,  Es.  vi.  12,  Jer.  xiv.  3,  and  li.  51.* 
2d.  The  “ eating  the  bread  of  men,”  mentioned 
above  in  Ezek.  xxiv.  17,  refers  to  the  following 
custom,  still  prevalent.  The  mourners,  during 

* The  covering  of  the  head  and  lips  in  this  manner  is  used 
on  other  occasions  to  express  sorrow  and  humiliation.  The 
Christians  in  the  upper  country  were  forced  always  thus  to 
appear  among  the  Muslems,  and  I have  seen  them  in  church 
on  the  approach  of  the  host  hasten  thus  to  cover  their  heads 
and  lips.  In  these  cases  it  seems  simply  a badge  of  humilia- 
tion and  respect. 


120 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


the  days  of  mourning,  do  not  bake  bread,  each 
of  the  neighbors  sending  in  a few  loaves,  for  the 
present  supply  of  the  family,  and  then  when  the 
“ days  of  mourning  are  ended,”  they  make  a 
feast,  to  which  the  neighbors  are  invited.  See 
also  Deut.  xxvi.  14,  and  Hosea  ix.  4. 

3d.  Going  barefoot.  This  is  mentioned  in  the 
above  passage,  and  also  together  with  the  cover- 
ing of  the  head,  in  2d  Sam.  xv.  30,  and  xix.  4. 

4th.  Rending  the  clothes.  This  is  frequently 
mentioned  in  the  Scripture  as  a sign  of  grief,  and 
we  frequently  witnessed  it.  It  is  usually  done 
by  the  women,  and  in  the  funeral  procession  they 
may  frequently  be  seen,  apparently  in  a very  os- 
tentatious manner,  holding  up  before  them  and 
tearing  a portion  of  their  veil  or  loose  dress. 

5th.  Connected  with  this,  the  wearing  of,  and 
girding  with  sackcloth , is  often  mentioned,  and 
one  of  the  women  above  mentioned,  had  a strip 
of  sackcloth  around- her  waist  under  her  loose 
dress,  one  end  of  which  she  held  in  each  hand, 
these  ends  protruding  outside  her  garment,  while 
at  the  same  time  she  was  dancing  in  a most  vio- 
lent manner. 

6th.  The  employment  of  mourning  women. 
Their  office  is  fully  described,  Jer.  ix.  17:  “Call 
for  the  mourning  women  that  they  may  come, 
and  send  for  cunning  women  that  they  may 
come,  and  let  them  make  haste,  and  take  up  a 
wailing  for  us,  that  our  eyes  may  run  down 


MOURNING  WOMEN. 


121 


■with  tears,  and  our  eyelids  gush  out  with 
waters.”  Also  2 Chron.  xxxv.  25,  and  Matt, 
ix.  23.  Many  of  these  women  are  “ skillful  of 
lamentation.”  They  usually  describe  in  most 
hyperbolical  terms  the  good  qualities  of  the  de- 
ceased, and  lament  the  stroke  of  fate  by  which 
he  has  been  taken  away.  Being  exercised  in 
the  matter,  they  soon  cause  a great  deal  of  sym- 
pathetic feeling  among  themselves,  and  as  for 
the  spectators,  and  especially  the  bereaved  ones, 
their  hearts  must  be  hearts  of  stone  if  their  eyes 
do  “ not”  run  down  with  tears,  and  their  eye- 
lids gush  out  with  waters.  Two  or  three  points 
in  their  mourning  deserve  special  mention,  as 
being  deeply  founded  in  the  laws  of  the  human 
mind.  1st.  They  do  not  attempt  to  keep  up  a 
long  continued  sorrow.  The  period  of  mourn- 
ing is  more  or  less  extended,  according  to  the 
age,  sex  and  social  station  of  the  deceased,  but 
these  cunning  women  do  not  attempt  to  keep 
up  a long  continued  feeling.  Human  nature 
could  not  endure  that.  Every  high  excitement 
must  have  a speedy  reaction,  and  consequently 
they  only  strive  to  produce  a paroxysm  of  grief, 
violent,  but  short,  and  then  they  leave  till  the 
next  day.  2d.  Their  gesticulations  are  most 
wild  and  frantic,  and  their  expressions  and 
shrieks  of  sorrow,  short  and  piercing.  They 
are  entirely  devoid  of  that  idea  of  tender  melan- 
choly which  we  attach  to  grief,  and  often,  espe- 
11 


122 


• EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


daily  as  accompanied  with  instrumental  music, 
and  the  not  unpleasant  song  of  the  blind  sheikhs, 
repeating  the  confession  of  faith,  convey  to  the 
spectator  the  idea  of  a joyful  rather  than  a 
mournful  occasion.  Their  movements  also  cor- 
respond with  this.  The  procession  moves  at  a 
very  quick  pace,  instead  of  slowly  as  with  us, 
and  the  women  dance,  or  rather  jump  up  and 
down,  in  a manner  so  violent,  that  it  is  wonder- 
ful how  they  can  long  continue  it.  All  this 
shows  that  tendency  in  human  nature  in  all  deep 
and  violent  emotions  of  the  mind  to  pass  from 
one  extreme  to  the  opposite.  Shakspeare  un- 
derstood this  principle  well  when  he  so  often 
introduced  in  the  midst  of  his  most  tragic  scenes 
a clown  or  buffoon  to  relieve  for  a time  the 
audience  from  their  intense  and  painful  excite- 
ment, and  cause  them  to  laugh  at  sayings  and 
actions,  which,  on  other  occasions,  would  only 
have  excited  contempt ; and  J.  B.  Gough  doubt- 
less owes  much  of  his  success  as  an  orator  to  his 
skillful  commingling  of  the  pathetic  and  ludicrous 
in  the  arrangement  of  his  anecdotes.  It  is  won- 
derful to  what  an  extent  even  the  joyful  is  min- 
gled with  the  violent  and  demonstrative  grief 
of  an  oriental  funeral.  The  procession  is  often 
preceded  by  a company  of  boys,  who  run  about 
and  frolic,  singing  as  they  go  their  school  lessons 
from  the  Kuran  in  a most  joyous  strain.  Then 
come  the  religious  sheikhs  (usually  blind)  chant- 


FUNERAL  PROCESSION. 


123 


ing  in  a not  unpleasant  manner,  the  Moham- 
medan confession  of  faith,  “There  is  no  deity, 
but  'Allah,  and  Mohammed  is  the  prophet  of 
Allah.”  Then  follow  the  male  mourners  and 
friends,  who  usually  abstain  in  public  from  all 
demonstration  of  grief.  Then  follows  the  bier, 
not  in  sombre  pall,  but  covered  with  a bright 
colored  cloth,  usually  a Persian  shawl  embroid- 
ered with  scarlet.  At  its  head,  on  an  upright 
staff,  is  placed  the  tarboush  of  the  deceased, 
often  ornamented  with  jewels  and  tinsel.  Bou- 
quets of  flowers  and  green  and  red  flags,  with 
verses  of  the  Kuran,  are  often  carried  in  con 
ncction  with  it.  Behind  it,  follow  the  mourning 
Avomen  and  the  female  members  of  the  family, 
with  their  expressive  and  often  violent  demon- 
strations of  grief. 

7th.  Connected  Avith  this  I may  mention  the 
voluntary  and  formal  character  of  oriental  mourn- 
ing. They  set  about  it  as  a performance  which 
the  usages  of  society  and  the  memory  of  the  de- 
ceased demand  of  them,  and  they  call  upon  the 
Avise,  cunning  Avomen  to  come  and  assist  them 
in  the  work.  Among  the  poorer  classes  Avho 
cannot  afford  to  call  hired  mourners,  the  neigh- 
boring Avomen  are  expected  to  come  and  assist 
in  the  Avork,  and  if  they  do  not  come,  jealousy 
and  hard  feelings  are  the  result ; and  they  may 
expect  to  be  left  to  mourn  alone  A\dien  their  time 
comes.  So  David  called  upon  Israel  to  mourn 


124 


Egypt’s  pkinces. 


for  Abner,  2 Samuel,  iii.  81.  This  voluntary 
character  of  the  mourning  makes  it  a fit  subject 
for  legislation  ; and  the  government  has  recently 
sent  out  an  order  that  the  women  should  not  be 
allowed  to  run  into  excesses  in  their  mourning, 
and  passing  one  day  through  the  streets  with 
Mustapha  Aga,  he  scattered  a company  of 
mourning  women  in  a harsh  and  unceremonious 
manner,  which  would  have  seemed  very  grating 
on  the  feelings  had  their  lamentations  been  the 
expression  of  true  sorrow.  How  different  is  all 
this  from  the  subdued,  chastened,  and  heartfelt 
sorrow  of  the  Christian  heart ! 

The  time  prescribed  by  custom  for  the  mourn- 
ing varies.  Children,  and  especially  females,  are 
often  hurried  away  to  the  tomb  by  the  bearers 
and  sheikhs  alone,  not  even  the  members  of  the 
family  following.  Grown  up  males,  and  espe- 
cially “ an  only  son,”  require  a longer  time,  and 
the  days  of  mourning  are  often  extended  to  two 
or  three  weeks.  All  the  house  of  Israel  mourned 
for  Aaron,  and  also  for  Moses,  thirty  days.  Jo- 
seph and  his  Egyptian  friends  mourned  for  Jacob 
three  score  and  ten  days,  and  afterwards  at  the 
threshing  floor  of  Atad,  which  is  beyond  Jor- 
dan, they  mourned  with  a great  and  very  sore 
lamentation,  seven  days,  so  that  the  inhabitants 
of  the  land  said,  “ This  is  a grievous  mourn- 
ing to  the  Egyptians,”  and  the  Egyptians 
are  still  noted  among  all  the  orientals  for 


DURATION  OF  ORIENTAL  MOURNING.  125 


the  length  and  grievousness  of  their  lamenta- 
tions. 

8th.  Going  about  the  streets.  Solomon  says, 
Ecc.  xii.  5,  “ And  the  mourners  go  about  the 
streets .”  It  was  always  the  custom  in  Luxor 
for  the  mourning  procession  to  make  the  circuit 
of  the  town ; and  when  the  mourning  extended 
over  several  days,  they  each  day  did  so,  going 
through  the  principal  streets. 

9th.  Casting  dust  upon  the  head , and  towards 
heaven.  Job  ii.  12.  This  is  still  the  custom. 
On  the  occurrence  of  a death  the  women  of  the 
house  often  go  to  the  coal  house  or  ash  heap, 
and,  sitting  down,  cover  'themselves  with  coal 
dust  or  ashes,  while  screaming  and  tearing  their 
hair  and  clothes  in  a terrible  manner ; and  in  the 
streets  they  often  bedaub  their  faces  and  clothes 
with  mud. 

10th.  Exclamations  apostrophizing  the  dead.  In 
the  instance  with  which  I commenced,  the  men 
who  were  the  sons  of  the  deceased  were  crying 
out,  “According  to  what  God  has  judged,  O 
my  Father.  In  the  religion  of  God,  O my  Fa- 
ther, O my  Father!  O my  Father.”  This  re- 
minded me  of  David’s  expressions : “ O Absalom, 
my  son,  my  son  Absalom,”  etc.,  and  other  Scrip- 
tural examples.  1 Kings  xiii.  30 ; 2 Sam.  iii.  33  ; 
Jer.  xxii.  18. 

1 1th.  Formal  visits  of  condolence.  These  are 
expected  from  the  friends  of  the  family  of  the 


126 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


deceased,  and  are  often  given  when  there  is  but 
little  friendship  or  true  sympathy  with  the  be- 
reaved, and  sometimes  a long  journey  is  made 
for  the  purpose.  Thus  Job’s  three  friends  came 
to  comfort  him  in  his  affliction,  though  their 
speeches  did  not  exhibit  much  true  sympathy. 
Two  instances  have  come  under  my  notice  in 
which  distant  villages  were  visited  for  the  pur- 
pose. In  one  of  these,  happening  to  be  at  the 
bishop’s  house,  a messenger  came  from  the 
family  of  the  deceased,  announcing  the  death 
of  a mother,  and  asking  for  a friend  to  come 
and  comfort  them.  The  bishop  ordered  one  of 
the  priests  to  go,  at  the  same  time  complaining 
of  it  as  a hardship,  saying  that  when  she  was 
living  they  wished  her  out  of  the  way,  but  that 
now  she  had  died,  she  had  suddenly  become 
very  dear  and  precious  to  them.  I asked  them 
what  consolations  they  offered  on  such  occasion® 
He  said,  “ Oh,  we  say  that  Adam  died,  and 
Abraham  died,  and  that  all  the  pati’iarchs  and 
fathers  died,  and  that  we  all  must  die — and  the 
like  empty  talk.”  Three  other  priests  besides 
the  one  about  to  go,  and  a number  of  the  people 
being  present,  I made  them  sit  down  and  gave 
them  a specimen  of  the  consolations  of  the  gos- 
pel, and  then  having  the  priest  bring  his  Testa- 
ment, I turned  down  the  leaves  of  the  15th  of 
1st  Cor.,  and  the  11th  and  14th  of  John,  and 
told  him  to  read  for  them  those  chapters,  and 


PRIESTLY  CONSOLATIONS. 


127 


explain  them  as  well  as  he  could  ; and  the  next 
day  when  he  returned  he  said  he  had  done  so, 
and  they  thought  it  much  better  than  the  stereo- 
typed phrases  which  they  had  been  accustomed 
to  use.  Many  of  those  phrases,  however,  are 
very  expressive  and  pretty.  I was  struck  with 
the  following : in  consoling  for  the  death  of  a 
child,  if  there  be  other  children,  it  is  said,  “ The 
blessing  is  in  those  that  remain” — and  if  an  only 
child — “ God  will  replace  it  by  a better.”  But 
I Avill  not  give  more,  for  such  expressions  lose 
their  force  in.  translating.  They  are  mostly  the 
maxims  of  a stoic  philosophy.  They  do  not  offer 
to  the  smitten  heart  the  strong  consolation  of 
Him  who  is  the  resurrection  and  the  life,  and 
truly  they  are  “ empty  talk.” 

I might  mention  other  points  of  Scripture  il- 
lustration, but  these  are  the  most  important. 

It  is  important  to  remark  that  many  of  those 
customs  exist  only,  and  all  of  them  in  greater 
perfection,  among  the  Muslems,  and  especially 
those  of  Bedouin  origin,  than  among  the  Chris- 
tians and  Jews.  The  latter  might  have  been 
suspected  of  copying  them  from  the  Bible,  but 
the  former  cannot.  Thus  testimony  is  borne  to 
the  fidelity  of  the  description  of  oriental  man- 
ners and  customs  contained  in  the  Scriptures, 
and  thus  strength  is  added  to  the  strong  chain 
of  argument  by  which  they  are  proved  authentic. 

Before  leaving  the  subject  I may  be  permitted 


128 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


to  mention  a classical  illustration.  Most  of  the 
women  carried  in  their  hands  in  the  funeral  pro- 
cessions long  staves  of  a kind  of  reed  abundant 
in  Egypt.  These  they  flourished  in  the  air  over 
their  heads,  and  taken  in  connection  with  their 
leapings  and  convulsions,  they  reminded  me  of 
the  orgies  of  the  Bacchantes  with  their  thyrsus 
staves.  They  selhied  only  to  want  the  deerskin 
nebris,  and  the  ancient  Egyptian  priests,  as  de- 
picted in  the  funeral  processions  in  the  Theban 
tombs,  wore  a leopard  skin.  I have  never  seen 
elsewhere  this  carrying  of  staves,  and  it  was  in- 
teresting to  witness  it  in  Thebes,  from  which 
we  know  so  much  of  the  Greek  and  Roman 
mythology,  as  well  as  the  Christian  superstitions, 
have  their  origin. 

The  following  description  given  by  Herodotus, 
“ the  father  of  history,”  of  what  he  saw  in  Egypt 
over  2,300  years  ago,  is  also  interesting,  as  illus- 
trating a number  of  these  customs.  He  says, 
“ The  following  is  the  way  in  which  they  con- 
duct their  mournings  or  funerals.  On  the  death 
in  any  house  of  a man  of  consequence,  forthwith 
the  women  of  the  family  beplaster  their  heads, 
and  sometimes  even  their  faces,  with  mud,  and 
then  leaving  the  body  indoors,  sally  forth  and 
wander  through  the  city,  with  their  dress  fast- 
ened by  a band  and  their  bosoms  bare,  beating 
themselves  as  they  walk.  All  the  female  rela- 
tions join  them  and  do  the  same.  The  men,  too, 


ANCIENT  FUNERALS. 


121) 


similarly  begrit,  beat  their  breasts  separately. 
When  these  ceremonies  are  over,  the  body  is 
carried  away  to  be  embalmed.  The  sculptures 
on  the  ancient  tombs  represent  the  mourners 
as  performing  the  same  acu. 


CHAPTER  V 


Afternoon  19 th.  Walked  out  and  met  the  man 
who  came  the  other  day  with  Yakob.  Was  sorry 
to  learn  that  he  was  to  return  in  a few  days  to 
his  native  village,  Pesht.  As  this  was  a place 
not  put  down  on  the  maps,  and  I had  never 
heard  of  it,  I asked  him  about  it,  when  he  told 
me  that  in  ancient  times  it  was  a large  town, 
but  that  a certain  bishop  passing  through  the 
streets  one  day,  some  boys  who  were  playing 
chanced  to  throw  a missile,  which  put  out  his 
reverence’s  eye,  when  he  cursed  the  town,  and 
thus  cursed  it  had  ever  since  remained ; and 
that  most  of  its  inhabitants,  having  learned  by 
experience  that  they  could  not  prosper  in  so 
ill-starred  a place,  had  removed  to  other  parts 
of  the  country;  and  that  he  had  avoided  the 
effects  of  the  bishop’s  curse  by  building  his 
house  a short  distance  off  from  the  town.  Thus 
Egypt  also  has  her  Jericho.  Josh.  vi.  26. 

20 th.  Went  out  as  usual  to  seek  some  one  to 
whom  I might  speak  the  Word  of  Life.  Met 
Yakob,  and  for  more  than  an  hour  we  sat  con- 
versing in  the  sun,  and  on  a disagreeable  dusty 
bank.  Found  that  he  had  spent  most  of  his  life 
(130) 


ILLNESS  OF  THE  BISHOP. 


131 


in  Khartum,  far  into  the  interior.  I was  delighted 
with  the  deep  interest  with  which  he  received 
the  truth,  and  his  submission  to  the  Word  of 
God  in  all  points  of  controversy. 

Called  on  the  bishop,  and  found  him  not  at  all 
well.  lie  had  been  ailing  ever  since  I came, 
and  I had  been  giving  him  medicine  which  he 
thought  did  him  great  good  ; but  he  insisted  on 
taking  more  blue  pill  than  I wished  to  venture 
on  administering,  especially  as  he  had  a great 
antipathy  to  taking  oil  after  it,  thinking  arrack 
would  do  quite  as  well.  The  latter,  together  with 
his  fasting  diet,  was  evidently  causing  his  illness. 
He  showed  me  the  measure  of  the  amount  he 
daily  took,  and  I persuaded  him  to  come  down  to 
half  his  usual  allowance,  and  also  pressed  him  to 
break  his  fast.  He  said  that  he  would  willingly 
do  so,  but  that  the  people  would  say  that  he  had 
turned  infidel.  He  expressed  strong  faith  in  my 
medicines.  At  the  same  time  he  talked  strange- 
ly and  mysteriously  of  visions  which  he  had  had 
during  a former  illness — of  Mary  and  others  of 
the  heavenly  host  passing  before  him  and  speak- 
ing to  him,  and  seemed  to  speak  despondingly 
that  he  was  not  now  thus  favored.  I told  him 
that  he  should  not  regard  this — that  the  wise 
man  said  that  dreams  come  “ through  the  multi- 
tude of  business,”  and  that  therefore  we  should 
not  regard  them  as  either  good  or  bad  omens — 
when  I was  quite  surprised  to  hear  him  say  in  an- 


132 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


swer  that  these  were  not  dreams  of  which  he 
spake,  but  actual  visions,  which  he  saw  when 
wide  awake.  He  said  this  hesitatingly  and 
dubiously,  as  if  he  hardly  thought  I would 
believe  him,  as  other  and  more  superstitious 
ones  had  done — as  if  he  himself  hardly  believed 
what  he  was  asserting.  To  this  I could  answer 
nothing,  as  it  took  me  entirely  beyond  my 
sphere  of  thought  and  experience.  It  was, 
however,  to  me  an  interesting  incident,  as  help- 
ing to  solve  a problem  which  I was  then  deeply 
pondering,  viz : how  it  came  to  pass  that  the 
ancient  church,  and  especially  the  Coptic  church, 
had  been  so  imposed  upon  by  “ lying  Avonders.” 
I was  then  reading  a volume  which  I had  before 
borroAved  from  him,  viz. : The  Life  of  St.  Bak- 
hum,  (Pachomius  of  Church  History,)  and  found 
it  quite  full  of  visions,  dreams,  apparitions,  and 
miracles,  and  all  narrated  in  a simple,  artless 
style,  and  attended  Avith  circumstances  *which 
shoAved  that  the  renoAvned  saint  himself,  his  co- 
temporaries, and  the  narrator,  were  all  alike  sin- 
cere and  in  earnest.  I could  not,  (and  yet  for  the 
time  I did  not  see  why  I should  not,)  receive  their 
united  testimony,  especially  Avhen  we  recollect 
the  number  of  those  avt1io  were  deceived.  More 
than  6,000  were  folio Aving  Bakhum  to  the  con- 
A'ents  which  he  established  in  this  neighborhood. 
I see  it  now,  and  the  bishop’s  visions  helped  to 
put  me  on  the  track.  This  tempts  me,  as  usual, 


ORIENTAL  VISIONS. 


133 


to  go  into  a long  digression  on  the  subject,  hut  I 
must  for  the  present  forego  the  pleasure,  hoping 
if  ever  I get  through  with  these  notes,  (and  have 
any  time  left  for  writing,)  to  be  able  to  return  to 
the  subject.  I may  here,  however,  be  permitted 
to  make  a couple  of  general  remarks,  Avhich,  to 
those  who  think  and  have  the  imagination  to 
transfer  themselves  to  a different  state  of  society 
from  that  in  which  they  live,  will  suffice  to  lay 
bare  the  whole  subject.  These  “lying  wonders” 
seem  to  require  in  the  age  in  which  they  are  pro- 
duced and  received  two  conditions : 

1.  The  existence  of  a superstitious,  wonder- 
loving  people,  whose  minds  have  been  deeply 
stirred  and  excited  on  religion;  but  who,  at  the 
same  time,  are  not  living  under  the  full  blaze  of 
Gospel  light — who  have  some  knowledge  of  un- 
seen realities,  but  who,  at  the  same  time,  have 
not  had  them  revealed  to  the  eye  of  faith,  with 
that  clearness  with  which  it  is  the  province  of 
the  Gospel  to  reveal  them. 

2.  Certain  men,  (and  in  such  a state  of  society 
these  will  not  be  wanting,)  Avho  will  supply  the 
demand  which  is  thus  created  for  lying  legends. 
These  legend  mongers,  judging  from  their  Avorks 
and  the  books  which  describe  their  lives,  may 
clearly  be  divided  into  tAVO  classes:  First,  Bare- 
faced impostors  — men  Avho  deliberately  and 
craftily  set  themselves  for  their  own  private 
ends  to  furnish  food  for  the  popular  craving 


134 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


which  we  have  described.  They  boldly  and 
unblushingly  put  forth  their  cunningly  devised 
fables,  and  lay  claims  to  lying  wonders,  and  they 
are  readily  received  by  a people  not  disposed  to 
be  skeptical,  nor  competent,  (were  they  so,)  to 
sift  evidence  and  detect  imposture. 

The  second  class  are  a simple  race — a “ feeble 
folk” — like  the  conies,  and  like  them  they  “make 
their  houses  in  the  rocks.”  They  are  the  true 
monks ; not  the  men  who  are  led  by  either  craft 
or  indolence  to  assume  the  monkish  robe.  They 
are  themselves  deceived,  and  self- deceived  before 
deceiving  others.  They  are  men  of  ardent  but 
not  Avell-balanced  minds.  Their  imaginations 
are  warm,  and  they  are  inflamed  by  meditation, 
and  fasting,  and  prayer,  and  solitude,  until,  in 
their  disordered  conceptions,  the  inner  and  the 
outer  worlds  become  all  confused.  They  lose 
the  power  of  always  discriminating  between  the 
ideal  and  the  real,  the  subjective  and  objective, 
fancy  and  fact.  They  mistake  their  internal 
impressions  for  external  perceptions.  They  hear 
voices  which  come  not  from  without,  but  only 
from  the  depths  of  their  oVn  spirits.  They  see 
visions  which  are  only  painted  on  the  internal 
surface  of  the  retina — they  receive  visits  from 
angels  and  demons,  which  are  the  creations  of 
their  own  disordered  imaginations — they  believe 
what  they  wish  to  be  true,  and  these  crude  crea- 
tions of  their  own  fancies  they  throw  out  upon 


COPTIC  AUTHORS. 


135 


a credulous  public,  too  ready  to  receive,  and 
once  afloat,  they  do  not  suffer  diminution  as  they 
pass  from  mouth  to  mouth. 

This  second  class  is  by  far  the  more  danger- 
ous of  the  two ; for  sincerity  carries  with  it  a 
power  which  with  the  masses  can  (even  in  more 
enlightened  communities)  disarm  skepticism,  and 
dispense  with  proofs.  Of  the  former  class  was 
the  author  of  the  Memoir  of  Sit  Damiane,  (the 
famous  saintess  of  the  Coptic  Church,)  with  her 
forty  virgins.  He  was  a bold  fabricator  who 
cut  his  story,  as  we  would  say,  “from  whole 
cloth.”  Of  the  latter  class  was  Pachomius. 
He  was  a sincere  and  earnest  man,  and  his  dis- 
ciple, Tadrus,  (Theodoras,)  was  a singularly 
simple  and  transparent  character.  It  is  pleasing 
to  find  in  his  memoir,  mixed  with  much  that  is 
superstitious,  such  strong  evidences  of  true  and 
sincere  piety,  and  also  that  he  was  so  free  from 
many  of  the  corruptions  which  have  since  been 
superadded  to  the  Coptic  faith.  He  possessed, 
too,  with  all  his  simplicity,  good  administrative 
powers,  and  a keen  discernment  of  character. 
His  power,  as  well  as  the  favorable  attitude 
of  the  public  mind  towards  such  a delusion, 
and  the  depth  of  the  moral  disease,  and  especi- 
ally the  licentiousness  which  it  was  sought  thus 
either  to  cure  or  flee,  were  shown  by  the  suc- 
cess which  attended  the  movement  of  which  he 
was  the  leader.  There  had  before  been  ascetics, 


136 


Egypt’s  princes. 


who  hacl  fled  to  the  living  death  of  the  desert ; 
but  though  not  the  founder  of  the  monastic 
life,  he  was  the  founder  of  regularly  organized 
monastic  institutions.  His  first  convent  was 
founded  on  the  island  of  Tabenna,  near  Ghinneh, 
and  he  preached  monasticism  with  such  suc- 
cess, and  built  up  his  convent  for  the  reception 
of  his  followers  so  industriously,  that  he  soon 
found  himself  surrounded  by  a company  of  fif- 
teen hundred  monks.  These  he  left  under  the 
chai'ge  of  Tadrus,  and  went  to  Edfou,  and  built 
a similar  convent,  and  thus  he  and  a few  of  his 
faithful  followers  successively  swarmed  from 
hive  to  hive,  until,  at  his  death,  he  found  him- 
self at  the  head  of  a large  number  of  convents 
containing  about  7,000  monks.  His  brother, 
John,  succeeded  Tadrus  as  his  right-hand  man, 
and  his  sister  also  founded  a convent  for  women, 
which  flourished. 

On  a future  occasion,  I may  write  something 
about  the  rule  of  life  which  he  prescribed  to 
his  followers ; for  the  present  I must  proceed 
with  the  narrative.  We  cannot  help  admiring 
the  self-sacrificing  spirit  which  led  these  men 
thus  to  renounce  the  world,  and  devote  them- 
selves to  the  austerities  of  a monkish  life.  Had 
that  self-sacrifice  and  devotion  been  employed 
in  the  evangelization  of  Africa,  it  would  have 
carried  the  Gospel  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

In  speaking  of  the  two  great  needs  of  Egypt, 


CIVILIZERS. 


137 


it  will  be  seen,  from  my  making  the  second  item 
the  result  of  the  first,  and  from  the  manner  in 
which  I speak  of  a forced  civilization,  that  I do 
not  sympathize  wivh  those  theorists  who  would 
make  steam  and  modern  improvements  in  the 
arts  and  sciences  the  great  agencies  which  are 
to  regenerate  the  world,  and  make  it  enlightened 
and  happy.  The  opinions  which  I then  had 
in  my  mind  to  oppose,  are  well  set  forth  in  the 
following  extracts,  which  have  since  fallen  under 
my  notice : 

“ Steam  is  the  acknowledged  new  element  of 
advancement  by  which  this  age  is  distinguished 
from  all  wrhich  have  preceded  it.  By  its  magical 
power  distance  is  set  at  naught,  and  the  produc- 
tions of  the  antipodes  are  brought  rapidly  to- 
gether. Coal  must  therefore  henceforth  be  the 
motor  and  meter  of  all  commercial  nations. 
Without  it  no  modern  people  can  become  great, 
either  in  manufacture  or  in  naval  art.  As  an 
illustration  of  this,  if  the  disgression  may  be 
allowed,  the  mighty  transformations  which  are 
this  day  taking  place  in  the  countries  about  the 
Mediterranean,  especially  among  the  Turks,  where 
lives  the  presiding  genius  of  Muslemism,  might 
be  adduced.  The  paddle-wheels  of  European 
intelligence  and  enterprise  are  there  daily  break- 
ing up  the  stagnant  waters  of  oriental  supersti- 
tion, ignorance,  and  despotim.  Not  a steamer 
plows  the  waters,  from  the  pillar  of  Hercules  to 
12* 


138 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


the  Sea  of  Japan,  that  goes  not  as  a herald  6f 
civilization  and  Christianity  to  those  benighted 
nations.  Already  has  steam  navigation  wrought 
a mighty  change.  It  has  changed  the  whole 
moral,  political  and  social  world.  It  has  brought 
nations  into  neighborhood,  made  them  acquainted 
with  one-another’s  advantages,  disadvantages, 
virtues  and  vices,  and  thus  struck  a death-blow 
to  a thousand  prejudices  and  superstitions,  and 
made  many  tribes  of  rude  barbarians  ashamed 
of  their  ignorance  and  barbarism,  and  resolved 
to  imitate  their  improved  neighbors.  It  has 
wrought  a mighty  change  on  the  habits  of  the 
sluggish  nations  of  the  East.  The  paddle-wheels 
of  improvement,  and  the  terrific  puffs  of  the 
fire  and  smoke  of  reform,  have  broken  up  the 
stagnant  waters  of  every  nation,  from  Constanti- 
nople to  Japan.” — Quarterly  Review. 

“ But  the  innovation  of  the  mightiest  magni- 
tude, the  one  which  has  done  most  to  break  up 
the  stagnation  of  Turkish  Orientalism,  is  the 
introduction  of  steam  navigation.  This  has 
opened  a new  chapter  to  the  sluggish  mind  of 
the  East,  and  portends  a revolution,  moral,  po- 
litical, social  and  intellectual,  of  vast  interest  to 
the  Christian  philanthropist.” — Read's  Hand  of 
God  in  History. 

These  extracts  contain  a modicum  of  truth, 
but  their  expressions  are  far  too  strong  and  en- 
thusiastic; and,  if  I mistake  not,  their  authors 


FALLACIES. 


139 


have  fallen  into  the  common  error  of  putting 
the  effect  for  the  cause.  They  would  doubtless 
point  to  Egypt  as  the  brightest  example  of  the 
truth  of  what  they  assert — and  I will  briefly 
state  the  case  as  it  presents  itself  to  my  mind 
here  in  Egypt. 

1.  Mere  contact  and  familiarization  of  the 
mind  with  the  steam-engine,  or  any  other  work  of 
art,  is  not  enough  to  raise  and  enlighten  a people. 
If  this  were  the  case,  the  Egyptians  must  always 
have  been  enlightened,  for  since  the  days  of 
Tkothmes  and  Rameses  they  have  always  had 
before  their  minds  monuments  of  science  and 
art,  in  comparison  with  which  the  steam-engine 
is  a child’s  plaything.  The  sight  of  an  engine 
may  lead  a few  inquiring  minds  into  investiga- 
tions into  the  nature  of  a piston  and  a valve,  of 
the  properties  of  steam,  and  the  power  of  a 
vacuum,  whicli  may,  to  a certain  extent,  enlarge 
their  capacities  and  spheres  of  thought ; but 
then  the  question  is,  whether  this  enlargement 
will  be  used  to  subserve  any  good,  social,  moral 
or  political  end.  The  mere  contemplation  of  a 
wrork  of  art  will  no  more  make  men  enlightened 
and  happy,  than  natural  theology  will  make 
them  Christians. 

But  the  fact  is,  that  very  few  will  inquire  or 
investigate.  It  is  too  far  above  them.  It  is  an 
intruder  into  their  “ stagnant  waters,”  which 
they  content  themselves  with  gazing  upon  in 


140 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


stupefied  amazement,  as  people  would  look  upon 
a ghost,  intruding  into  the  common  walks  of 
life.  This  is  not  a figure  of  speech.  A friend 
told  me  that  one  day,  when,  from  some  accident, 
the  train  stopped  in  its  course  and  would  not 
proceed,  he  overheard  a fellah  saying  to  his 
neighbor:  “The  affreet  (demon)  of  the  Franks 
is  bewitched  to-day.” 

But  2.  It  would  not  accomplish  the  ends  pro- 
posed were  it  otherwise — were  the  engine  not  a 
foreign  intrusion,  but  a result  of  self-developed 
enterprise  and  intelligence.  For  such  in  reference 
to  the  ancient  Egyptians  were  the  monuments  of 
science  and  artistic  skill  to  which  I have  alluded, 
and  which  have  been  to  this  day  the  wonders  and 
the  models  of  the  world,  and  yet  the  people  who 
conceived  and  executed  them  were  a nation  of 
miserable  slaves.  The  gods  which  they  wor- 
shipped were  cats,  and  serpents,  and  beetles  and 
hawks,  and  crocodiles  — indeed,  almost  every 
creeping  and  living  thing,  so  that  it  was  said 
that  it  was  easier  to  find  a god  than  a man 
in  Egypt ; and  if  it  be  true  that  men  become 
assimilated  to  that  which  they  worship,  we 
need  bring  no  further  proofs  (which  we  might 
abundantly  do,  were  it  necessary)  as  to  what 
they  were,  morally,  politically,  socially  and  in- 
tellectually ; and  like  causes  produce  like  ef- 
fects. Were  it  otherwise — were  the  theory  of 
the  authors  whom  I have  quoted  correct,  France 


DEFECTS. 


141 


should  be,  as  to  her  “ moral,  political,  social,  and 
intellectual  ” character,  one  of  the  first  and  hap- 
piest of  nations,  one  to  which  the  Christian  phi- 
. lanthropist  might  point  with  pleasure ; and  yet, 
what  is  the  fact  in  France — poor,  corrupt,  hollow- 
hearted,  enslaved,  unhappy  France?  Something 
more  effective  than  art  and  science,  more  mighty 
than  coal  and  steam,  or  the  civilization  of  which 
they  may  be  the  “ motor  or  meter,”  is  needed  to 
regenerate  her  and  make  her  happy. 

But  3.  Our  authors  evidently  attribute  the 
“ mighty  transformations  ” which  they  imagine 
have  here  taken  place,  or  are  about  to  take  place, 
as  the  result  of  steam  navigation,  to  the  contact 
which  is  thus  brought  about  between  “ European 
intelligence  and  enterprise,  and  Oriental  super- 
stition, ignorance,  and  despotism.”  We  suppose 
their  idea  is  that  each  steamer  must  be  “ a herald 
of  civilization  and  Christianity  to  those  benighted 
nations,”  because  each  steamer  bears  to  them 
civilized  and  Christian  men,  and  not  from  any 
inherent  virtue  which  the  steamer  itself  possesses. 
This  might  be  the  case,  were  all  who  are  brought 
civilized  and  Christian  men,  and  were  they,  after 
coining  here,  true  to  their  principles.  But  the 
contrary  is,  alas  ! the  fact.  It  is  a low  estimate 
to  say  that  nine  out  of  ten  of  those  who  come  have 
not  been  prepared  by  their  previous  training  to 
exert  an  influence  for  good  upon  those  to  whom 
they  come,  but  rather  for  evil.  Thus  the  influence 


142 


Egypt’s  princes.' 


of  the  few  who  have  had  a different  training  is 
more  than  counteracted ; and,  even  as  to  them- 
selves, they  soon  find  it  much  easier  to  glide  along 
Avith,  than  to  oppose,  the  overpowering  current 
which  on  every  hand  they  must  breast.  Unless 
their  good  principles  have  been  cast  in  a very 
stern  mould,  they  soon  wilt  and  wither  like  plants 
transplanted  into  an  arid  soil  and  under  a burning 
sun;  and  it  is  lamentable  to  see  how  even  English- 
men, instead  of  raising  to  their  own  high  level 
those  around  them,  are  dragged  doAvn  to  the  very 
earth  by  the  inert  mass  Avhich  on  every  side  at- 
taches to  them.  There  is  in  morals,  as  well  as  in 
physics^  a law  of  gravitation.  There  are  some 
bright  exceptions  to  these  general  remarks.  Their 
influence  is  good,  and  they  deserve  all  praise. 
Such  being  the  case,  the  influence  upon  the  na- 
tives is  such  as  might  have  been  expected.  They 
learn  the  vices  but  not  the  virtues  of  the  new- 
comers. They  fail  of  the  “ advantages,”  but  se- 
cure for  themselves  and  entail  upon  their  children 
the  “ disadvantages  ” of  civilization.  Steam  na- 
vigation has  opened  a new  chapter  to  the  sluggish 
mind  of  the  East.  But  it  is  a chapter  Aitfrose  head- 
ing is,  “ A spurious  and  hollow  civilization,”  and 
whose  subdivisions  are,  “ A grasping  avarice,  an 
unbounded  licentiousness,  and  a flippant  skepti- 
cism.” It  has  “ made  them  ashamed  of  their  ig- 
norance and  babarism,”  but  unsophisticated  ig- 
norance and  barbarism  are  better  than  a painted 


THE  FACTS. 


143 


and  polished  corruption.  It  has  destroyed  super- 
stition, hut  superstition  is  easier  dealt  with — is 
nearer  the  truth,  than  hard-hearted  infidelity.  I 
am  now  in  a position  to  make  the  comparison.  I 
have  found  in  this  journey  among  the  poor  peas- 
ants of  "Upper  Egypt,  a sense  of  want  and  a 
desire  of  improvement,  a readiness  to  part  with 
their  scanty  earnings  for  books  on  religion  and 
science,  and  an  earnestness  in  their  study  such 
as  I have  never  met  with  in  Alexandria  and  other 
seaport  towns  where  intercourse  with  the  Franks 
has  been  enjoyed.  Difference  of  race  may  in  part 
account  for  the  marked  difference,  (for  these 
descendants  of  the  ancient  Copts  are  an  earnest, 
inquiring  people ;)  still  the  fact  exists,  and  it  is 
significant. 

The  following  is  a type  of  the  new  class  of  phi- 
losophy which  is  springing  up  under  the  tuition 
of  their  European  teachers.  On  my  last  trip 
between  Alexandria  and  Cairo,  I had  sitting  just 
in  front  of  me  a sprig  of  what  may  be  called 
Young  Egypt,  a youth  just  entering  his  teens. 
He  was  decked  out  in  the  usual  style,  with  cloth 
coat  and  pants,  silk  vest,  and  massive  gold  chain. 
He  was  reading  (as  attentively  as  his  constant 
smoking  of  cigarettes  Avould  allow)  an  English 
book,  which  I found  to  be  “ Female  Life  among 
the  Mormons.”  (In  a trip  which  I had  taken  a 
few  days  before,  I had  as  “ compagnon  du  voy- 
age” one  of  these  chaps  reading  “Barnum’s 


144 


EGYPT  8 PRINCES. 


Autobiography”  in  French.)  It  would  take  me 
a long  time  to  describe  the  airs  which  he  put  on 
at  the  different  stations  at  which  we  stopped, 
with  his  compeers  of  the  telegraph  service.  One 
expression  will  serve  as  a significant  index  of  the 
whole.  The  train  was  moving  rather  slowly, 
when  he  impatiently  looked  out  of  the  window, 
and,  puffing  out  a volume  of  smoke,  he  said, 
“This  driver,  d — n his  eyes,  is  going  very 
slow !”  This  boy  had  spent  five  years  in  a Pro- 
testant mission  school,  and  as  he  was  engaged  in 
the  telegraph  service,  his  subsequent  associations 
had  been  with  Englishmen.  What  might  I tell 
of  those,  and  they  are_  the  large  majority,  who 
have  had  their  training  in  Jesuit  and  Lazarist 
schools,  and  whose  subsequent  intercourse  has 
been  with  the  low  Italians  and  French,  of  whom 
we  have  thousands  in  Alexandria,  the  off-scour- 
ing of  Europe  ? 

4.  Steam  navigation,  and  the  other  modern 
improvements  of  which  it  may  be  considered  the 
type,  must  (in  order  to  accomplish  the  great  re- 
sults expected  from  it)  be  the  result  of  native 
development,  (assisted,  it  may  be,  from  without, 
but  still  native  and  indigenous,)  or  those  expec- 
tations will  be  disappointed.  It  must  not  be  an 
exotic — a foreign  “intrusion  into  the  stagnant 
waters  ” forced  upon  the  people  before  they  are 
prepared  for  it,  and  against  their  wills.  The  con- 
trary has  been  the  case  here,  and  it  has  been  and 


OPPRESSIONS. 


145 


is  ruining  the  country  and  crushing  the  spirit  of 
the  people.  Mohammed  Ali  initiated  that  policy, 
and  his  family  has  since  followed  it.  It  has  given 
Egypt  an  appearance  of  prosperity  which  has 
made  many  people  loud  in  its  praise,  but  I cannot 
agree  with  them ; for  it  is  for  the  most  part  only 
an  appearance — a glittering  mask  seen  at  Alex- 
andria and,  in  a measure,  at  Cairo  ; behind  it  is 
poor,  deformed,  down-trodden  Egypt.  I will  give 
a few  examples  to  illustrate  my  meaning.  And, 
first,  we  will  mention  one  of  the  first  acts  of  Mo- 
hammed Ali’s  reign,  which  has  obtained  a world- 
wide notoriety — the  digging  of  the  Mahmudiyeh 
Canal,  between  Alexandria  and  the  Nile.  For 
this  work  it  is  said  that  250,000  or  300,000  of 
the  poor  peasants  were  driven  together,  and 
under  great  privations  and  the  lash  of  the  task- 
master, they  performed  the  task  in  a month. 
23,000  men  are  said. to  have  fallen  victims  to  the 
hardships  endured,  but  even  this  oblation  on  the 
altar  of  Alexandria’s  prosperity  must  have  been 
a small  matter  compared  with  the  crushing  effect 
of  such  an  act  of  despotism  on  the  other  275,000, 
their  families  and  villages.  The  dam  over  the 
Nile,  just  below  Cairo,  was  hardly  a less  work; 
and  it  was  performed  in  the  same  manner.  It 
never  has  answered  any  purpose,  except  to  serve 
as  a toll-gate  for  the  annoyance  of  passing  boats 
and  the  increase  of  the  already  swollen  revenues 
of  the  Government;  and  there  it  stands,  a monu- 
13 


146 


Egypt’s  princes. 


ment  of  the  folly  of  an  ignorant  despot,  under- 
taken at  the  suggestion  of  an  ignorant  French 
engineer.  Factories,  foundries,  bridges,  colleges, 
etc.,  were  built  all  over  the  land,  and,  empty  and 
unused,  they  have  since  been  falling  to  ruins ; 
young  men  were  torn  from  the  bosom  of  their 
families  and  sent  to  England  and  France,  some 
of  them  to  school,  and  others  to  learn  trades — 
apparently  a wise  though  a despotic  measure ; 
but  it  has  not  met  the  expectations  which  it  in- 
spired. Most  of  the  young  men  came  back  with 
that  little  learning  which  the  poet  declares  to  be 
a dangerous  thing.  As  most  of  them  were  sent 
to  France,  they  came  back  infidels,  and  nearly 
all  of  them  on  their  return  met  with  obstacles  to 
the  carrying  out  of  the  purposes  for  which  they 
were  sent,  which  rendered  the  whole  measure 
next  to  an  entire  failure.  Take  one  example.  A 
young  man  was  sent  to  Glasgow  to  learn  the 
trade  of  carpet-weaving.  He  spent  some  years 
there,  during  which  time  he  made  a profession 
of  Christianity,  and  was  baptized.  He  came 
back  with  all  the  necessary  machinery  for  a large 
carpet-factory.  This  he  set  up,  and  one  carpet 
was  made,  when  it  was  found  that  carpets  could 
be  imported  from  Europe  much  more  cheaply 
than  made  here,  and  the  enterprise  was  aban- 
doned. This  young  favorite  of  the  Government 
has  since  been  retained  in  its  employment,  but 
at  worts  for  which  his  former  training  gave  him 


DEGRADATIONS. 


147 


no  special  fitness,  and,  of  course,  at  a rate  of 
wages  much  higher  than  he  has  deserved.  Soon 
after  he  returned  from  England  he  essayed  to 
take  a stand  as  a Christian,  when  Mohammed 
Ali  called  him  up  and  asked  him  whether  he  had 
sent  him  to  England  to  learn  Christianity  or 
carpet-weaving.  This  question  from  such  a 
man  as  Mohammed  Ali,  was  sufficient,  and  he 
has  never  since  dared  to  manifest  any  Christian 
tendencies. 

And  this  is  the  policy  which  has  since  been 
pursued  by  the  reigning  house.  Gangs  of  labor- 
ers— men,  boys  and  girls — may  everywhere  be 
seen  driven  like  cattle  to  their  work  by  the 
bayonet  of  the  soldier  and  the  lash  of  the  task- 
master, and  humanity  hardly  knows  whether  to 
rejoice  in  the  fact  that  that  lash  is  seldom  needed, 
except  for  a threatening  crack.  Yet  so  it  is.  So 
degraded  have  the  people  become,  so  accustomed 
to  regard  themselves  as  the  slaves  and  mere 
tools  of  Effendina,  the  Pasha,  that  they  have 
come  to  regard  this  trampling  upon  their  rights 
as  men,  as  a matter  of  course,  and  the  cheerful 
songs  of  the  long  lines  of  children  which  fde 
along  with  their  baskets  of  earth  or  hods  of 
mortar  upon  their  heads,  usually  supply  the  in- 
citement to  their  heavy  toil,  which  would  other- 
wise be  administered  by  the  lash. 

The  following  dialogue  will  illustrate  the  esprit 
da  corps  of  these  gangs  of  Egyptian  peasants. 


148 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


In  one  of  my  donkey  rides  one  evening,  outside 
of  the  gates  of  Alexandria,  I overtook  a boy, 
about  twelve  years  of  age,  going  out  to  the 
palace  which  the  Pasha  was  building  for  his 
sister  on  the  Mahmudiyeh,  in  which  work  he, 
with  hundreds  of  others,  was  engaged.  I saluted 
him  with 

“ Good  evening,  my  boy ; where  are  you  go- 
ing ?” 

He  returned  my  salutation,  and  answered, 
“ To  the  works.” 

“ From  which  village  are  you  ?” 

“From  such  an  one,”  he  said,  mentioning  a 
town  near  Cairo. 

“ Plow  many  people  are  there  here  from  your 
village  ?” 

“ A hundred.” 

“ And  how  long  are  you  to  remain  here  in  the 
works  ?” 

“ A month.” 

“ And  then  who  will  come  to  take  your 
places  ?” 

“ Another  hundred  from  our  village,  and  each 
village  sends  its  share.” 

“What  wages  does  Effcndina  give  you?” 

“Nothing;  would  Effcndina  give  us  wages — 
he  is  our  master !” 

“ And  what  do  you  eat  during  all  this  month?” 

“ Bread  ; here  it  is,”  pulling  out  of  his  bosom 
and  handing  me  a hard  black  loaf. 


INHUM  ANITIES. 


149 


Handing  it  back  to  him — “And  did  you  bring 
bread  enough  with  you  for  the  whole  month 
from  your  village  ?” 

“No;  we  brought  all  we  could  carry,  and 
when  it  is  finished,  we  will  have  to  bake.  But 
keep  the  loaf — keep  it,  you  are  welcome  to 
it.” 

“You  said  you  carried  it;  but  did  you  not 
come  here  on  the  railroad  ?” 

“No,  we  came  afoot.” 

“How  many  days  did  it  take  you  to 
come  ?” 

“Four  days.” 

“ And  will  you  go  back  also  afoot  ?” 

“ Certainly.” 

“ And  why  not  by  the  railroad  ?” 

“ The  railroad  is  Effendina’s.  He  built  it  for 
the  Franks.” 

By  this  time  we  had  reached  his  stopping- 
place  beside  the  road  under  an  acacia  tree. 

“ And  is  this  your  house  ?” 

“Yes,  I sleep  here.”  There  was  his  store  of 
black  bread  in  a large  net-work  bag  made  of 
palm  leaf  rope.  It  was  a cold,  raw  night,  and 
as  he,  barefooted  and  ragged,  nestled  down  be- 
side his  bag  of  bread  which  lay  rolled  in  the 
dust,  I turned  away  with  a full  heart,  saying, 
“ Good  evening,  my  boy,  and  may  God  give  you 
patience  till  the  day  of  deliverance.” 

And  thus  it  is  that  railroads,  factories,  fortifi- 
13* 


150 


Egypt’s  princes. 


cations  and  palaces,  almost  'without  number,  are 
being  raised  throughout  the  land.  Their  tower- 
ing walls  are  laid  upon  the  very  heart  of  poor, 
crushed  Egypt.  Their  stones  are  cemented 
with  her  people’s  blood.  The  pjoet  Thomson 
wrote  well  concerning  the  pyramids  and  other 
works  of  ancient  art  which  remain  unto  this 
day: 

“ Instead  of  useful  works  like  nature,  great, 

Enormous,  cruel  wonders  crushed  the  land. 

And  round  a tyrant’s  tomb,  who  none  deserved, 

For  one  vile  carcass  perished  countless  lives.” 

But  it  may  be  objected, — The  poet’s  sentiment 
is  not  altogether  applicable  to  the  present  works; 
for  many  of  them,  such  as  railroads,  factories, 
etc.,  are  “ useful  works,”  and,  therefore,  the 
good  which  will  in  the  end  result  from  them, 
will  at  length  more  than  counterbalance  the 
temporary  evil  incident  on  their  first  construc- 
tion. I deny  it.  They  are  not  useful  works.  A 
railroad  which  is  built  as  I,  a little  more  than  a 
year  ago,  saw  the  one  between  Cairo  and  Suez 
being  built,  by  10,000  forced  laborers,  who, 
from  overwork,  insufficient  food,  and  the  bitter 
cold  of  the  desert  nights,  were  dying  by  hun- 
dreds— the  privileges  of  which,  when  built,  can 
be  available  to  but  few  of  the  natives  of  the 
land  on  account  of  the  high  rates  of  fare — which, 
in  short,  is  built  simply  to ’accommodate  the  over- 


ASSUMPTIONS. 


151 


land  passengers  from  a distant  nation,  and  to 
swell  the  overgrown  revenues  of  one  man — 
revenues  which  are  expended,  not  for  the  good 
of  the  people,  or  to  promote  the  permanent  pros- 
perity of  the  land,  but  foolishly  lavished  on  the 
whims  of  a despot,  and  to  enrich  a crowd  of 
sycophants  and  parasites,  mostly  foreigners — 1 
such  a railroad  is  not  a “useful  work.”  Its  iron 
rails  are  laid  upon  the  necks  of  the  people,  who 
are  crushed  to  the  very  earth  while  a few  ride 
triumphantly  over  them.  It  is  an  engine  for  the 
accomplishment  of  that  which  has  always  and 
everywhere  been  the  chief  function  of  despotism 
— the  exaltation  of  the  few  at  the  expense  of  the 
million,  and  to  render  still  more  wide  and  im- 
passable the  gulf  between  the  rich  and  the  poor, 
the  nabobs  and  the  serfs.  Such  a railroad  is  not 
a useful  work.  And  so  of  other  similar  works. 
A sugar  factory — the  expense  of  furnishing  the 
machinery  for  which  can  be  undertaken  only  by  a 
Pasha,  which,  to  pay,  must  be  built  and  worked 
by  forced  labor,  which  must  depopulate  a dozen 
villages  that  their  lands  may  serve  for  its  wide 
cane  fields,  and  the  profits  of  which  are  absorbed 
by  one  man,  or  a favored  few,  and  not  divided 
among  a large  company  of  that  middle  class  of 
society  which,  wherever  it  exists,  is  its  pillar,  its 
stay  and  hope — such  a factory  is  not  a “ useful 
work.”  And  even  taking  that  which  we  have 
admitted  to  be  the  most  hopeful  measure  of  a 


152 


Egypt’s  princes. 


forced  civilization,  viz.,  the  sending  of  young 
men  to  the  schools  and  workshops  of  England 
and  France,  how  signally  and  how  naturally,  too, 
has  it  failed.  Take,  for  instance,  our  friend,  the 
carpet-weaver, — what  must  be  the  results  to 
himself  and  to  his  countrymen  of  his  sojourn  in 
Glasgow  ? As  to  himself,  the  first  feelings 
which  would  result  from  his  being  thus  violently 
torn  from  the  bosom  of  his  country  and  his 
native  land,  and  sent  away  to  a land  of  infidels 
and  among  a people  of  strange  customs  and 
tongue,  would  be  anything  but  pleasant.  But 
this  feeling  would  naturally  soon  wear  off,  and 
then  (and  the  attention  which  he  would  receive 
abroad  would  assist  in  the  matter,)  he  would 
come  to  look  upon  himself  as  the  protege  of  a 
king,  and  a favorite  of  government,  soon  to  re- 
turn to  his  people  a traveled  hero  and  a prodigy 
of  modern  science.  lie  naturally  comes  to  re- 
gard himself  as  a made  man,  one  whose  liveli- 
hood, nay,  fortune,  is  sure;  and  the  incentives 
to  that  strenuous  effort  and  stern  self-discipline 
which  make  men,  are  wanting,  (nor  do  his  early 
training  and  associations  supply  them,)  and  he 
comes  back  the  possessor  of  that  “ little  knowl- 
edge” which  the  poet  says  “is  a dangerous 
thing,” — an  empty  pretender,  who  is  fit  for  little 
but  to  be  an  on-hanger  of  the  court — a weak- 
minded,  emasculated  sycophant,  who,  when  ques- 
tioned as  to  his  faith,  dare  not  say  that  his  soul 


THE  TRUE  REFORMER. 


153 


is  his  own.  Men  are  not  made  of  such  stuff, 
nor  under  such  a regimen.  Sammie  Arkwright, 
the  barber,  was  not  thus  made  Sir  Samuel  Ark- 
wright, the  inventor  of  the  spinning  jinney  and 
the  founder  of  England’s  manufacturing  wealth. 
Such  sturdy  oaks  are  not  grown  in  the  “ hot-bed 
of  royal  patronage,”  but  in  the  native  soil  where 
they  must  contend  with  the  tempest  and  the 
blast. 

Thus  much  as  to  the  results  to  the  man  him- 
self. Then,  as  to  his  countrymen,  the  income 
of  one  village,  at  least,  is  required  for  such  an 
experiment.  To  send . this  young  man  to  Scot- 
land ; to  support  him  while  there ; to  purchase 
and  bring  out  the  machinery  necessary  for  the 
senseless  project  of  a carpet  factory  in  Egypt, 
and  then,  when  it  has  failed,  to  support  this 
young  favorite  in  some  government  sinecure — 
these  things  require,  at  least,  the  income  of  a 
whole  town ; that  is  to  say,  a whole  town  must 
be  kept  for  years  in  a state  of  serfdom,  in  order 
to  support  this  experiment. 

A nation  is  not  thus  made  great,  prosperous 
and  happy.  The  process  by  which  this  is  effected, 
is  one  which  commences  with  the  lower  classes 
of  society,  and  by  raising  them,  raises  all.  It  is 
the  distinguishing  trait  of  Christianity  to  do 
this.  It  commences  with  individuals,  and  the 
lowest  and  the  poorest  of  them.  It,  first  of  all, 
enfranchises  them  from  the  bondage  of  sin  and 


154 


EGYPT’S  PRINCES. 


Satan.  It  makes  them  “ free  indeed with  that 
liberty  with  which  Chirst  makes  his  people  free, 
and  thus  it  lays  the  only  true  foundation  for 
their  regeneration  and  amelioration  “ intellectu- 
ally, morally,  socially  and  politically.”  Other 
influences  may  conspire  to  assist  in  the  work. 
Foreign  civilization  may  lend  a helping  hand. 
Government  may  foster  and  encourage  native 
talent  and  industry.  Modern  inventions  and 
improvements  in  the  arts  of  life  may  furnish  a 
high  and  advanced  starting  point,  but  still  Chris- 
tianity must  ever  be  the  “ motor  and  meter  ” of 
true  civilization — the  regenerator  of  a people. 
It  is  a time  sentiment,  that  “ the  nation  is  only 
the  aggregate  of  individual  conditions,  and  civi- 
lization itself  is  only  a question  of  personal  im- 
provement.” Christianity  alone  is  the  system 
which  brings  forth  the  individual  and  the  'per- 
sonal. The  system  which  I have  spoken  against, 
exalts  the  few  into  the  high  places  of  temporal 
wealth  and  position,  and  divides  the  mass  into 
two  great  classes — a crowd  of  spiritless,  fawn- 
ing sycophants  and  aspirants  for  office  and  royal 
favors  around  the  throne,  and  behind,  the  undis- 
tinguished and  degraded  mass,  without  ambition, 
hope,  or  motive  to  manly  exertion  and  self- 
improvement. 

I am  conscious  that,  in  this  chapter,  I have 
given  one  side  of  the  subject,  and  that  some 
things  could  be  said  somewhat  to  enliven  the 


THE  TRUE  REFORMER. 


]/)5 


dark  features  of  this  picture,  but  with  the  re- 
strictions which  I have  given,  I can  trust  to  the 
bright  and  glowing  minds  of  my  readers  to  cast 
sufficient  light  upon  these  dark  pages. 


150 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

20th.  This  evening  Lord  Haddo  came.  See- 
ing ns  descending  to  the  beach  to  call  upon  him, 
he  sent  off  his  small  boat,  when  one  of  the  boat- 
men insulted  Mrs.  L.  This  I resented,  which 
called  forth  an  insolent  rejoinder  from  one  of 
them,  that  “ they  were  accustomed  to  deal  with 
big  folks,  and  that  it  was  a pity  if  they  could 
not  properly  hand  my  lady  into  the  boat.”  At 
this  I refused  to  go  off  with  them  and  turned  to 
find  another  boat,  when,  as  their  master  was 
observing  them  from  the  deck  of  the  dahabiyeh, 
they  came  to  terms.  This  was  my  first  encoun- 
ter with  these  men,  and  I cannot  explain  what 
tribulations  I was  destined  to  suffer  with  them 
the  next  three  months.  His  Lordship  had  re- 
ceived his  dahabiyeh  for  the  winter  as  a cour- 
tesy from  the  Viceroy,  and  its  crew  of  sixteen 
men,  puffed  up  with  pride  by  their  gay  liveries 
and  connection  with  royalty,  and  pampered  by 
luxury  and  indolence,  were  the  most  unmanage- 
able crew  of  lazy,  hasheesh-smoking  Arabs  I ever 


LORD  HADDO. 


157 


met.  I had  many  rich  scenes  with  them,  which 
with  the  pen  of  a Stephens  might  prove  very 
graphic  in  the  recital ; bnt  with  this  general 
notice  I will  leave  them,  referring  my  readers  to 
the  narratives  of  Nile  travelers  for  abundant 
details  of  similar  scenes.  I have  read  many  of 
these,  and  have  besides  been  called  upon  to 
mediate  in  many  quarrels  between  travelers 
and  their  men,  and  I must  confess  that  the  men 
are  generally  in  the  right,  and,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  this  crew,  I have  never  met  a more  trust- 
worthy, tractable,  and  industrious  race  of  men 
than  the  Nile  boatmen. 

I found  his  Lordship  not  much  improved  in 
health.  He  had  sold  books  for  4,000  piastres, 
though  he  had  met  with  several  drawbacks.  First, 
he  had  not  in  sufficient  quantity  the  books  needed, 
viz.,  the  Bible  and  parts  of  the  Bible,  which  is  the 
book  most  in  demand  in  Egypt.  Second,  Father 
Makhiel,  whom  we  had  given  him  to  act  as  col- 
porteur, had  been  unwell  the  first  twenty  days 
of  the  voyage,  and  Lord  Haddo  had  been  under 
the  necessity  of  making  his  boatmen  colporteurs. 
This  the  latter  liked  very  much  after  they  had 
once  overcome  their  Muslem  repugnance  to  hav- 
ing anything  to  do  with  the  Christian  book,  for 
as  his  Lordship  sold  beneath  our  regular  prices, 
it  gave  them  a margin  to  fill  up  in  the  way  of 
securing  pipe  money  for  themselves,  and  conse- 
quently, when  Makhiel  recovered,  and  was  able 


158 


EGYPT’S  PRINCES. 


again  to  resume  the  work,  they  were  unwilling 
to  resign  their  commissions  into  his  hands. 
Thus  a very  unhappy  rivalry  arose,  the  effects 
of  which  were  had  on  those  who  purchased ; for, 
first,  the  varying  prices  shook  their  confidence  in 
us  Bible  sellers  as  men  of  one  word  and  one 
price,  (a  character  which  we  had  labored  hard 
to  establish,)  and  thus  sent  them  back  to  their 
old  Arab  custom  of  cheapening  and  higgling; and 
second,  they  were  often  forced  to  receive  the 
book  from  the  Muslems  with  remarks  not  very 
complimentary  to  either  the  book  or  those  who 
professed  its  faith,  and  thus  their  sensibilities 
were  often  sadly  outraged,  so  much  so  that 
Makhiel  told  me  they  often  bought  the  book, 
not  because  they  needed  it,  but  simply  to  get 
it  out  of  the  hands  of  those  vile  Muslems.  But 
Lord  Haddo  knew  nothing  of  all  this,  as  Mak- 
hiel, not  knowing  English,  could  not  inform 
him,  and  Ali,  his  dragoman,  was  afraid  to  do  it, 
and  so  they  did  what  was  far  worse,  they  them- 
selves attempted  to  fight  the  men,  a battle  in 
which  I need  hardly  say  they  came  off  second 
best,  and  when  they  reached  Luxor  they  were 
in  the  habit  every  night  of  retiring  to  bed  with 
the  fear  of  being  thrown  overboard  before 
morning.  Of  course,  all  this  cut  the  sinews  of 
Makhiel’s  energy  in  the  work,  and  the  men  hav- 
ing a selfish  reason  for  diligence,  Lord  Haddo 
had  come  to  the  conclusion  that  his  Muslems 


BIBLE  WORK. 


159 


were  more  diligent  than  the  Christian  in  the 
good  work.  I had  unconsciously  given  theso 
men  the  key-note  of  my  course  of  policy  with 
them  in  the  affair  of  handing  Mrs.  L.  into  the 
boat,  and  was  able  evei  after  to  manage  them 
though  often  with  great  difficulty,  and  especially 
after  their  Ramadan*  commenced,  when  by  nigh! 
they  would  only  give  themselves  to  gluttony 
and  hemp-smoking,  and  by  day  their  empty 
stomachs  and  hasheesh-burnt  brains  made  them 
willing  subjects  of  the  demon  of  irritability. 

21  st.  Spent  the  forenoon  in  company  with 
Father  Makhiel  in  a visit  to  the  Bishop.  The 
two  having  been  old  friends,  had  many  past  re- 
miniscences to  recall,  and  I found  them  in  cor- 
dial sympathy  in  their  dislike  to  the  Patriarch. 
His  edition  of  Antar  and  his  order  for  Russian 
images  for  his  new  cathedral  in  Cairo  were 
severely  criticized. 

Saw  Lord  Haddo  in  the  afternoon.  He  pro- 
posed that  we  should  go  up  with  him  to  Assouan, 
and  then  he  hire  for  us  a smaller  boat,  and  we 
spend  a month  .in  exploring  and  distributing 
books  in  Nubia.  But  though  this  would  have 
been  very  pleasant,  I clung  to  the  proverb  that 
“ a bird  in  the  hand  is  worth  two  in  the  bush 
and  I could  not  in  Nubia  nor  anywhere  else 
expect  to  enjoy  better  opportunities  of  preach- 
ing the  truth,  both  in  the  church  and  in  private, 
* A Muslem  feast  of  forty  days’  duration. 


160 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


than  I then  had  in  Luxor;  and  so  I declined.  An 
acre  of  ground  well  cultivated  is  better  than  a 
plantation  run  to  weeds.  There  is  no  need  of 
tracing,  like  Alexander  the  Great,  our  outlines 
of  flour  over  a larger  surface  than  we  at  present 
are  prepared  to  build  upon.  Jowett  explored 
and  marked  out  all  Egypt,  and,  indeed,  all* the 
East,  and  what  did  it  result  in  ? When  we  are 
ready  to  occupy  Nubia,  it  will  be  time  enough 
to  explore  it ; and  besides,  on  the  Nile,  it  is  a 
principle  to  push  up  the  stream  when  the  wind 
blows,  and  we  were  now  enjoying  a wonderful 
breeze  of  priestly  favor,  which,  by  the  time  we 
could  return  from  such  a trip,  might  have  subsi- 
ded into  a dead  calm,  or  be  succeeded  by  a 
counter-gale.  Already  I found  I had  to  trim  my 
sails  very  skillfully  in  order  to  keep  them  full, 
and  a short  time  after  a side  flaw  struck  us 
which,  like  a gust  from  one  of  the  steep  cliffs  on 
the  eastern  shore  of  the  river,  set  us  all  upon 
our  beam  ends  in  a moment. 

I may  here  as  well  go  back  a little  and  bring 
up  the  history  of  our  relations  with  his  Rever- 
ence the  Bishop.  I have  already  stated  that 
Brother  McCague,  on  his  visit  here  last  autumn, 
established  the  school  in  a private  house,  and 
that  when  this  was  needed  by  the  owner,  the 
bishop  had  kindly  removed  the  school  to  the 
church.  He  evidently  had  a two-fold  motive  in 
this : first,  to  secure  our  help  in  building  a 


A BISHOP. 


161 


school-room  and  some  store-rooms  for  the  Epis- 
copal tythes,  on  the  lot  beside  the  church,  for 
which  he  had  already  collected  the  materials, 
and  second,  to  secure  our  influence  Avith  the 
Frank  travelers  Avho  might  sojourn  there,  as  it 
had  been  principally  by  means  received  from 
them  that  he  had  built  the  church,  and  he  judged 
that  we  would  be  able  to  secure  a continuance 
of  their  favors.  Besides  he  knew  that  he  was 
in  bad  odor  Avith  Fadil  Pasha  in  Ghinneh,  and 
he  thought  he  might  need  some  political  pro- 
tection for  the  Avork.  For  building  the  church, 
he  had  obtained,  from  the  Government,  through 
the  English  consul  at  Cairo,'  a firman,  and  it  had 
enabled  him  to  build  the  church  by  forced  labor, 
lie  often  used  to  boast  that  that  church  came  as 
easy  as  water.  There  was  another  strong  bond 
by  Avhich  he  was  bound  to  the  school.  He  had 
convinced  Brother  McCague,  when  there,  that 
besides  Monsur  their  regular  areef  (or  school- 
master) Avas  necessary  in  the  school,  and  also 
Priest  Antonins,  his  nephcAV,  a lazy  fellow,  who 
had  spent  a feAv  Aveeks  in  Mr.  Beider’s  school  in 
Cairo,  Avhere  he  had  acquired  a feAv  Avords  of 
English,  enough  to  enable  him  to  palm  himself 
off  upon  the  Luxorites  as  a prodigy  of  learning, 
and  upon  the  verdant  among  the  travelers  the 
false  scarabsei*  which  he  spent  his  time  in  manu- 
facturing. Each  of  these  tAvo  was  to  receive  a 
* Images  of  beetles  as  worshiped  by  the  ancient  Egyptians. 

14* 


162 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


pittance  of  wages  per  month,  and  the  areef 
richly  earned  his,  for  he  was  a good  teacher,  and 
the  school  was  so  large  that  he  was  needed. 
And  Antonias  had  also  in  the  beginning  done 
good  service  by  using  his  priestly  influence  in 
bringing  in  the  children,  but  now  he  had  nothing 
more  to  do,  and  I found  on  reaching  there  that 
he  had  no  more  conscience  of  either  his  school 
or  priestly  duties  than  to  spend  his  time  sitting 
in  the  street  on  the  sunny  side  of  a wall,  carving 
with  his  knife  false  scarabise  to  palm  off  on  the 
travelers.  His  want  of  conscience  in  the  matter 
was  so  great  that  he  even  boldly  asked  me  a 
few  days  after  reaching  there,  for  the  loan  of  my 
Wilkinson,  that  he  might  copy  from  it  the  car- 
touches  of  the  kings,  from  Menes  down  to  the 
Ptolemies,  to  serve  as  patterns  for  his  art.  I said 
to  him,  “Very  well,  go  with  me  to  the  house  and 
get  it but  when  there,  I took  him  aside  and 
gave  him  such  a lecture  that  he  was  glad  to  .get 
off  without  it,  and  henceforth  he  abandoned  the 
trade,  at  least  in  public.  Still  it  was  a great 
problem  to  know  what  to  do  with  him.  In 
^securing  to  our  cause  such  a priest,  we  were  put 
in  the  position  of  the  man  who  got  the  elephant. 
The  next  question  was  to  know  how  to  feed  him 
and  what  to  do  with  him.  He  could  not  be  dis- 
missed without  giving  mortal  offense  to  the 
bishop,  and  this,  in  our  circumstances,  would 
not  answer ; and  to  pay  him  even  the  pittance 


THE  BISHOP. 


103 

of  $4  per  month  of  mission  money,  for  the 
mere  exercise  of  his  influence  in  keeping  the 
children  in  the  school,  this  still  less  would  an- 
swer. So  I did  the  best  thing  I could  think  of 
for  the  time.  I was  reading  the  life  of  Pachomius, 
and  other  Arabic  manuscripts,  and  found  the 
hand-writing  very  crabbed,  and  trying  to  the 
eyes,  and  so  I proposed  to  use  him  as  eyes,  to 
read  to  me  several  hours  in  the  day.  But  this 
was  looked  upon  by  the  bishop,  who  could  not 
imderstand  my  scruples  in  the  matter,  as  only  a 
wedge  to  foist  him  altogether  out  of  our  service, 
and  besides  it  was  too  much  like  work  for  poor 
Antonius,  and  he  soon  discontinued.  This  was 
the  first  bucket  of  cold  water  upon  the  new  zeal 
of  the  bishop.  Then,  secondly,  my  sermons  in 
the  church  were  soon  found  to  be  quite  too 
popular  with  the  people.  All  his  objections  on 
this  score  he  put  on  the  ground  of  my  disparag- 
ing the  Virgin.  But  this  I never  did.  I extolled 
her  virtues  and  piety  in  the  highest  terms,  but  I 
said  she  was  a mortal,  and  we  should  not  pray 
to  her.  But,  thirdly,  he  found  he  was  not  getting 
all  the  money  out  of  us  he  had  hoped  for.  The 
system  of  doling  the  money  out  to  him  for  build- 
ing the  new  school-house,  only  about  as  fast  as 
Ave  were  getting  the  value  of  it  in  the  rent  of 
the  church  as  school-room,  did  not  meet  his  ex- 
pectations. If  Solomon  had  lived  in  the  year 
15  77  of  the  martyrs  (they  don’t  date  there  A.D, 


164  Egypt’s  princes. 

but  from  Diocletian)  lie  would  have  added  the 
Bishop  of  Luxor  to  his  list  of  things  which  cry, 
give,  give.  I kept  my  hand  hard  clenched,  but 
I assure  you  it  was  a hard  task  to  do  so.  The 
building  had  now  been  going  on  a month,  and  I 
had  only  given  $5,  and  was  determined  to  give 
no  more  for  some  time  to  come ; but  it  was  very 
amusing  to  see  all  the  artifices  which  he  set  on 
foot  to  cause  the  hard  muscles  to  relax. 

About  this  time  the  bishop  undertook  to  take 
me  in  with  a coup  d'etat , and  I am  sorry  to  say 
that  for  the  time  he  succeeded.  The  whole 
story  extended  over  several  weeks,  but  I will 
now  undertake  to  tell  it  all,  so  that  the  thread 
of  the  narrative  may  not  be  broken,  and  then  go 
back  for  my  scattering  notes. 

Fadil  Pasha  of  Ghinneh,  who  was  then  the 
Governor  of  all  this  district  as  far  as  Assouan, 
was  a terrible  tyrant,  but  withal  a man  of  a 
good  deal  of  decision  and  rough  justice  for  a 
Turk.  He  was  then  just  levying  forced  laborers 
from  all  his  district  to  dig  in  the  canal  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river.  This,  as  is  usual  in 
such  cases,  he  did  by  demanding  from  each  vil- 
lage their  quota,  to  be  apportioned  among  the 
inhabitants  and  sent  on  by  the  shaikhs  of  the 
villages:  The  bishop  came  to  me  with  the  story 
that  George,  the  Christian  shaikh  of  Luxor,  was 
his  inveterate  enemy,  and  that  he  was  making 
■this  conscription  a pretext  to  annoy  him  by 


STRATEGY. 


165 


taking  away  the  men  who  were  at  work  on  the 
school-house,  and  that,  men  who  according  to 
the  rules  of  apportionment  were  not  subject  to 
the  draft;  and  that  he  had  been  guilty  of  other 
outrages,  such  as  interfering  with  the  men  who 
brought  stones  for  the  work,  etc.  This  also 
touched  me,  although  I had  told  the  bishop  from 
the  first  that  we  would  undertake  no  responsi- 
bility in  the  building,  except  that  of  furnishing 
our  mite  towards  the  work,  and  that  when  done 
the  house  would  be  his,  and  that  we  only  wished 
him  to  allow  us  to  serve  the  community  by  keep- 
ing a school  in  it.  But  still  it  seemed  too  hard 
to  have  our  work  thus  interfered  with,  and  in 
an  evil  day  I consented  to  make  a representation 
to  the  Governor  on  the  subject.  On  this  the 
bishop  immediately  brought  in  a scribe,  who 
— with  an  abundance  of  dark  phraseology,  and 
rhetorical  flourishes,  for  which  the  Coptic  scribes 
are  noted,  by  which  they  so  cover  up  the  sting 
of  a communication  that  it  can  only  be  detected 
by  one  initiated — wrote  what  purported  to  be  a 
I request  that  our  men,  to  the  number  of  twenty, 
might  be  allowed  to  go  on  undisturbed  in  the 
work,  and  complaining  of  the  malversations  of 
the  shaikh.  I noticed  that  the  document  did 
not  say  categorically  that  these  men  were  not 
subject  to  the  draft,  and  called  their  attention  to 
it,  but  they  insisted  that  it  was  all  right,  and  I 
confess  the  truth  I was  simple  and  did  not  see 


1G6 


EGYPT'  S PT.INCES. 


the  plot,  and  so  it  was  sent  as  it  was.  I also  re- 
presented the  case  to  Lord  Haddo,  who  wrote 
a note  in  French,  asking  the  kind  attention  of 
the  Governor  to  the  subject.  The  Governor 
took  it  as  a claim  of  exemption  for  these  men 
from  their  just  duty  in  the  canal,  and  wrote 
us  each  a very  polite  note,  reminding  us  that  it 
was  the  law  of  the  land  that  no  church  nor  school 
should  be  built  without  a license  from  the  Vice- 
roy, and  that  if  we  had  received  one  from  head- 
quarters, he  would  be  very  happy  to  furnish  the 
men  to  execute  it.  To  this  document  I did  not 
see  fit  to  return  any  answer,  except  through 
Mustapha  Aga,  our  consular  agent  in  Luxor, 
“ that  we  were  not  fellahs,  and  under  Turkish 
but  American  law — that  we  were  living  in  the 
country  with  the  knowledge  and  tacit  consent 
of  the  Government,  and  that  our  business  was 
to  establish  schools  and  labor  for  the  enlighten- 
ment of  the  people,  and  that  we  only  claimed 
the  same  right  of  being  allowed  to  pursue  our 
^ avocation  unmolested  which  courtezans  and  grog- 
i shop  keepers  and  other  unlawful  characters  en- 
joyed, and  that  besides,  even  in  their  law,  we 
had  never  read  that  school-houses  were  included 
in  the  prohibition  of  churches.”  This  to  him ; 
and  to  the  bishop  I said,  “We  will  still  go  on 
with  the  work  with  such  men  as  we  can  get,  and 
if  they  take  them  all  away,  we  will  labor  with 
our  own  hands.  We  shall  not  admit  his  right 


THE  DESIGN. 


167 


to  prohibit  our  building.”  Had  the  bishop  been 
either  wise  or  honest,  he  would  have  fallen  in 
with  my  whim  and  set  the  Government  at  de- 
fiance, and  the  result  would  propbably  have 
been  that  the  case  would  have  been  referred  to 
Cairo,  where  we  could  have  got  the  consuls  to 
back  us,  and  a precedent  might  have  been  es- 
tablished for  building  churches  and  schools 
throughout  the  land  without  a government  per- 
mit. But  the  bishop  was  neither  wise  nor  honest. 
I could  not  then  bring  him  to  take  that  view  of 
the  subject,  nor  did  he,  until  in  the  case  of  Faris, 
six  months  later,  he  and  all  Egypt  learned  our 
power.  After  that  I saw  him  in  Cairo,  and  lie 
freely  admitted  his  error.  So  at  the  time  he 
was  immovable,  and  the  work  stopped.  This 
led  me  to  study  his  conduct,  and  finally  to  seo 
through  his  plot,  which  was  simply  to  secure 
exemption  from  the  work  in  the  canal  for  twenty 
men,  when  he  could  readily  get  so  many  to 
work  for  him,  gratis,  and  then  he  would  eat,  as 
the  Arab  phrase  has  it,  but  perhaps  I might  say, 
writh  a nearer  approach  to  truth,  drink,  in  the 
form  of  arrack,  the  money  which  he  should  re-. 
ceive  from  me  and  the  travellers  for  paying  his 
workmen,  and  besides  it  would  put  into  his 
hand  a large  patronage,  and  make  him  almost  as 
important  for  the  time  being  as  a consular  agent. 
And  from  the  first  this  had  been  a great  point 
which  he  had  striven  to  carry  with  me,  viz.,  that 


168 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


I should  use  ray  influence  to  have  him  appointed 
American  Consular  Agent  in  the  place  of  Mus- 
tajiha  the  Muslem,  and,  all  I had  been  able  to  say, 
I could  not  convince  him  that  it  would  not  be 
fitting  for  a bishop  and  an  ambassador  of  the 
■Great  King  of  Heaven  to  stoop  to  an  agency  for 
one  of  earth’s  little  kings. 

By  the  time  I had  come  to  the  above  sage 
conclusion  as  to  his  motives  in  the  movement, 
(and  I should  have  done  so  before,  had  I not 
been  of  that  race  of  Dutchmen  who  never  see 
the  point  of  a joke  till  the  next  day,)  Fadil 
Pasha  had  received  my  answer,  which  was  truly 
Dutch  in  its  sturdy  obstinacy,  and  he  sent  down 
an  agent  to  inquire  into  the  matter.  I now  had 
nothing  to  say  but  that  I still  clung  to  the  doc- 
trine of  the  message  as  to  our  rights  in  the 
matter,  but  that  the  bishop  had  deceived  me,  and 
I had  thrown  him  overboard,  and  would  do 
nothing  more  in  helping  him  build  the  school. 
This,  of  course,  brought  him  down  with  his  full 
weight  upon  the  bishop,  and  it  was  not  long  be- 
fore all  the  males  in  his  family  connection,  who 
were  to  have  been  so  neatly  exempted,  were, 
right  or  wrong,  in  the  canal  under  the  lash  of 
the  taskmaster,  and  when  some  of  them  showed 
themselves  refractory  they  were  sent  to  Ghinneh 
to  engage  in  the  honorable  occupation  of  sweep- 
ing the  streets,  with  a long  iron  appendage  to 
their  feet.  I need  hardly  say  that  from  that 


COPTIC  SUPERSTITIONS. 


169 


day  our  school  in  the  church  was  doomed.  The 
bishop  finally  saddled  his  pony  and  rode  to 
Ghinneh  and  humbled  himself  before  the  Pasha, 
when,  after  a sharp  reprimand,  his  offence  was 
pardoned.  I will  now  return  to  the  thread  of 
my  narrative. 

22 d.  The  bishop  being  in  high  spirits  about 
our  proposed  letter  to  Fadil  Pasha,  I thought 
I would  strike  the  iron  while  hot,  in  the  mat- 
ter of  securing  his  consent  to  a proposition 
which  I had  already  mentioned  to  him,  viz.,  to 
have  also  an  afternoon  service  in  the  church.  I 
went  in  the  evening  and  found  the  priests  and 
some  of  the  people  in  the  church  saying  prayers. 
On  my  return  I stopped  with  them  till  midnight. 
It  was  the  Feast  of  the  Virgin,  and  they  were 
repeating  the  twenty-four  chapters  of  fulsome 
and  blasphemous  praise  to  her  which  the  Coptic 
Church  has  borrowed  from  the  Greeks.  Oh ! 
how  sickening  are  these  exhibitions  of  blind 
superstition ! I found  the  bishop  ready  to  ad- 
mit the  force  of  my  plea  for  an  afternoon  service 
to  explain  the  Epistle,  as  we  did  the  Gospel 
lesson  in  the  morning,  and  the  matter  was  ar- 
ranged. All  his  own  opposition  to  the  measure 
he  endeavored  to  put  on  the  shoulders  of  the 
people,  saying  that  they  were  too  indifferent  to* 
the  subject  to  attend,  but  I agreed  to  be  respon- 
sible for  them. 

23 d.  Sabbath.  Preached  in  the  morning  in  the 

15 


170 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


church.  The  lesson  of  the  day  was  in  continu- 
ation of  the  one  of  last  Sabbath — Luke  i.  39  to 
65 — so  that  I was  obliged  to  give  them  a third 
sermon  on  the  Virgin.  The  bishop  was  evidently 
very  uneasy  under  it,  but  still  bore  it  well,  and 
I was  happy  to  observe  that  when  the  deacons 
came  to  him  to  burn  incense  and  bow  to  him,  he 
motioned  them  away,  and  he  had  a custom  which 
much  amused  some  of  the  people,  of  occasionally 
interrupting  me  by  saying,  “Yes,  it  is  just  so; 
I knew  it  all  once,  but  have  forgotton  it.”  These 
expressions  at  length  became  by-words  among 
the  people,  who  expressed  sorrow  that  their 
bishop  had  forgotten  so  much. 

In  the  afternoon  a large  audience — about  100 
men — was  present,  and  I was  allowed  to  conduct 
the  service  in  my  own  way;  so  we  had  no  mum- 
mery of  dead  Coptic  prayers.  When,  however, 
I proposed  to  pray  in  my  own  way  before  ser- 
mon, he  interposed  that  it  was  not  necessary ; 
but  I carried  my  point,  telling  him  that  prayer 
was  good  on  all  occasions,  and  especially  when 
we  meet  in  the  church  for  God’s  worship.  I 
gave  them  an  exposition  of  the  first  part  of  the 
first  chapter  of  Romans.  It  was  a good  sight 
#to  see  so  many  sitting  around  so  attentive  to  the 
word,  and  Monsur  and  Makhiel  tell  me  that  the 
people  were  much  pleased  with  that  style  of 
worship. 

25th.  Received  a letter  from  Faris  at  Osiout 


THE  PATRIARCH’S  DEATH. 


171 


that  (he  Patriarch  had  sent  there  an  excommu- 
nication against  all  the  parents  who  should  send 
their  children  to  our  school.  About  the  same 
time  word  also  came  from  the  brethren  at  Cairo 
that  he  was  there  moving  heaven  and  earth 
against  us,  and  had  even  caused  public  prayers 
to  be  made  in  the  church  against  our  work  in 
the  upper  country.  Was  strongly  tempted  to 
send  up  a counter  excommunication  against  him 
for  printing  Antor  and  importing  Russian  idols, 
and  did  anathematize  most  vigorously  in  my  own 
little  circle,  but  soon  afterwards  he  was  taken 
away  by  a sudden  and  mysterious  death,  and  thus 
the  sun  of  this  so-called  Protestant  Patriarch  set 
in  darkness.  Many  of  the  people  interpreted 
his  death  as  a judgment  for  his  opposition  to  us. 

2Qth.  Called  on  the  bishop  and  found  him 
with  the  Testament, and  also  a volume  of  Church 
history,  open  before  him.  lie  was  in  a very 
dejected  frame  of  mind  on  account  of  the  Pasha’s 
answer  to  us  which  had  come  to  hand  the  day 
before.  He  seemed  almost  ready  to  renounce 
the  world  and  retire  a second  time  to  the  desert 
and  a monkish  life.  When  I left  him  he  was  in 
a more  cheerful,  or  at  least  resigned  frame  of 
mind. 

Went  in  the  evening  with  a party  of  Ameri- 
cans to  see  the  temple  of  Karnak  by  moonlight ; 
and  Karnak  by  moonlight,  the  donkey-boys  on 
the  way  assured  us,  in  phrases  which  they  had 


172 


Egypt’s  princes. 


picked  up  from  enraptured  sight-seers,  was 
“magnificent,  charming,  exquisite (The  latter 
they  gave  as  an  American  adjective.)  I shall 
leave  the  subject  with  this  their  description,  for 
I have  no  other  adjectives  at  command  that  will 
convey  any  adequate  conception  of  these  stupen- 
dous ruins.  They  must  be  seen,  and  I was  so 
much  impressed  with  that  moonlight  view  of 
them,  covering  as  it  did  all  defects  and  obsceni- 
ities  of  sculpture,  and  bringing  all  out  in  such 
magnified  and  yet  mellowed  proportions,  that  I 
was  almost  tempted  to  decide  that  they  should 
be  seen  only  by  moonlight.  I cannot,  however 
resist  the  temptation  of  giving  a bit  of  gossip. 
After  wandering  about  for  a long  time  through 
the  ruined  courts  and  sculptured  colonnades,  and 
when  we  had  gathered  together  to  leave,  and 
the  donkey-boys  with  their  donkeys  were  around 
us,  it  was  proposed  to  have  a song,  and  after 
some  discussion  the  hymn  commencing  “Before 
Jehovah’s  awful  throne”  was  settled  upon  as 
the  most  fitting  for  relieving  the  surcharged 
poetic  sentiment  of  the  company.  I must  con- 
fess I did  not  see  the  force  of  singing  that  hymn 
before  those  nasty  old  gods,  and  not  being  a 
singer,  at  any  rate,  I stepped  back.  The  circle 
was  formed  in  the  midst  of  the  great  hall,  and 
the  first  line  was  sung,  when  the  donkeys,  not 
waiting  for  the  proper  pause,  joined  in  with  such 
an  uproarious  chorus  that  the  young  people  of 


GOSPEL  TEACHINGS. 


173 


the  part}'  were  at  once  forced  to  change  their  tune 
to  a loud  hah-hah!  The  graver  members  of  the 
circle  still  hung  to  it,  but  at  the  end  of  the  third 
line  the  paroxysm  of  the  braying  beasts  being 
yet  in  full  blast,  they  too  broke  down,  and  we 
all  had  a hearty  laugh,  and  then  mounted.  I 
have  never  before  seen  so  plump  a fall  from  the 
sublime  to  the  ridiculous. 

2 1th.  Went  to  see  the  Memnonium  and  the 
vocal  Memnon  and  his  sister  on  the  other  side 
of  the  river.  For  description  see  the  guide 
books  and  travelers’  journals,  passim. 

In  the  evening,  with  the  little  company  which 
gathered  nightly  at  Monsur’s  room.  The  Chris- 
tians, who  were  shy  in  coming  to  me  in  my  Mus- 
lem  quarters’,  were  in  the  habit  of  meeting  here, 
and  Makhiel  and  Monsur  strove  to  instruct 
them  in  the  way  of  life,  while  I labored  with  the 
Muslems  at  Mustapha  Aga’s.  I found  many  of 
them  very  willing  to  listen,  and  especially  Yu- 
seph  the  mufti  of  the  town,  who  was  an  intelli- 
gent, and  seemed  a very  upright  and  virtuous 
man.  He  was  a graduate  of  the  Azhar,  the 
great  Muslem  university  at  Cairo,  and  it  was  a 
pleasure  to  talk  with  him.  As  he  was  a satellite 
of  Mustapha,  writing  his  letters  and  doing  his 
other  business  for  him,  he  came  in  almost  every 
evening,  and  thus  I had  frequent  opportunities 
of  conversing  with  him,  and  established  with 
him,  I think,  sundry  new  canons  of  interpre- 


174 


Egypt’s  princes. 


tation  applicable  to  tlie  revelation  of  Moham- 
med. Mustapha,  too,  being  consular  agent  for  sev- 
eral European  powers,  and  the  recognised  head 
of  the  Muslem  clique  of  the  town,  Kis  house  was 
the  great  resort  for  the  neighbors,  and  thus  we 
usually  had  a good  audience  of  droppers-in  to 
hear  our  discussions. 

Apropos  of  our  rebuff  from  Fadil  Pasha,  he 
was  made  the  subject  of  our  gossip  this  evening, 
after  more  important  matters  were  disposed  of. 
Each  one  present  had  some  story  to  tell  of  his 
tyranny,  and  by  Moslems  and  Christians  alike 
he  seemed  to  be  feared  and  hated.  Father 
Makhiel  on  his  way  down  had  visited  the  prison 
at  Ghinneh.  He  found  in  it  about  500  prisoners, 
and  on  inquiring  for  what  crimes  they  were 
there,  he  concluded  that  most  of  them  were 
there  wrongfully.  One  man  was  pointed  out 
to  him  who  had  been  there  a year  and  a half  be- 
cause he  failed  to  produce  his  dead  son  when 
the  lot  fell  upon  him  for  the  army,  although  he 
brought  testimonials  of  his  death  from  the  shaikh 
of  his  village,  the  doctor  who  attended  him,  the 
grave  digger,  and  other  witnesses.  Six  others 
came  to  him  and  said  they  were  the  remnant  of  a 
family  of  eighteen,  who  had  been  imprisoned 
three  and  a half  years  because  a young  man  of 
the  family  had  deserted  from  the  army.  Most 
of  them  were  there  for  debt — that  is,  for  failing 
to  pay  t ie  Government  taxes.  The  tax  on  each 


TYRANNY. 


175 


acre  of  land  is  here  from  $3  to  $4.50,  besides 
forced  labor  and  many  other  improvised  exac- 
tions ; so  the  burdens  of  the  poor  fellaheen  are 
heavy  enough,  and  one  cannot  help  exclaiming 
with  the  Psalmist,  O Lord,  how  long  ? 

Still  it  must  be  admitted  that  since  the  reiim 

o 

of  this  Governor  the  country  has  been  in  a state 
of  quiet  and  security  not  known  before.  Before, 
murder  and  robbery  were  rife,  now  peace  and 
order  reign.  And  after  all  it  cannot  be  expected 
that  a man  who  must  so  systematically  harden  his 
heart  by  the  constant  use  of  the  rod,  should  bo 
tender  and  considerate  when  humanity  or  even 
sound  policy  point  them  out  as  the  better  plan. 
The  present  conscription  for  the  canal  is  an  ex- 
ample of  this.  The  whole  young  wheat  crop 
of  this  section  has  just  been  cut  off  by  the  worm, 
and  the  people  were  just  beginning  to  plow  and 
re-sow  the  ground  when  this  order  came.  The 
state  of  the  case  was  represented  to  him,  but  he 
would  not  delay  the  work  for  a couple  of  weeks, 
though  it  might  as  well  have  been  done ; and 
the  result  will  be  an  almost  total  failure  of  the 
heaviest  crop  of  the  country,  and  hundreds  more 
of  the  poor  fellaheen  will  next  spring  have  to 
suffer  the  naboot  and  imprisonment  for  failure 
to  pay  the  taxes. 

29th.  Went  to  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings  and 
Deir  El  Bekre  and  Asaseef.  I had  now  been 
here  nearly  a month,  and  had  not  seen  these 


176 


EGYPTS  PRINCES. 


great  sights,  and  I found  that  the  travelers  who 
had  come  from  the  ends  of  the  earth  to  see 
them,  were  beginning  to  put  me  down  in  their 
boohs  as  a strange,  if  not  a stupid  man,  for  my 
indifference  to  these  ancient  and  wonderful 
works  of  art,  and  so  I started  out,  determined 
to  kill  the  last  lion.  Perhaps  I should  not  speak 
so  lightly  about  them,  for  truly  they  were  won- 
derful, and  I found  before  I left  that  the  longer 
I walked  in  their  shadows,  the  deeper  did  the 
impression  of  their  vast  proportions  and  exqui- 
site workmanship  sink  into  my  mind.  Still  I 
must  confess  that  a living  specimen  of  a modern 
Egyptian  is  to  me  a greater  curiosity,  and  an 
object  of  deeper  interest  than  a host  of  mum- 
mied- kings ; and  I can  find  more  to  interest  me 
in  digging  among  these  ruins  of  society  and  re- 
ligion, than  in  musing  among  the  sculptured  col- 
umns of  ruined  temples. 

On  our  way  we  passed  the  canal,  and  saw  the 
men,  about  5,000  in  number,  at  work.  They 
were  in  gangs,  those  from  each  village  working 
together  under  their  shaikh  as  task-master,  and 
the  work  was  measured  out  to  them  by  the 
square  dra  (the  dra  is  twenty-two  inches.)  The 
men  cut  the  ground  loose  with  mattocks,  and 
filled  with  it  the  baskets  which  the  children  car- 
ried to  the  top  of  the  bank  on  their  heads.  The 
Egyptians  know  no  other  way  of  doing  this 
kind  of  work,  and  when  Mohammed  Ali  im- 


GENERAL  DEGRADATION. 


177 


ported  wheelbarrows  for  them,  they  carried 
them,  filled  -with  earth,  upon  their  backs,  and 
soon  concluded  that,  after  all,  they  were  no  great 
improvement.  The  digging  of  these  canals  for 
irrigating  the  whole  land  in  this  manner,  and 
annually  clearing  out  of  them  the  thick  layer 
of  mud  which  the  overflowing  Nile  brings  down, 
is  a Herculsean  work.  But  even  this  was  not 
enough,  and  the  Suez  Canal  had  to  come  to 
crush  the  poor  fellah  still  further  into  the  earth. 
Let  France  build  the  canal  if  she  will,  England 
to  the  contrary  notwithstanding,  but  let  French- 
men do  the  work. 

While  there,  we  saw  one  man  nabooted  for 
attempted  desertion.  One  would  thiuk — at  least 
one  who  carried  with  him  American  ideas — that 
the  people  could  be  induced  to  do  these  works 
voluntarily,  as  they  are  for  their  own  good,  and 
they  must  starve  without  them ; but  here  we 
havg  no  such  public  spirit.  The  people  are  like 
children  who  must  be  driven  to  their  tasks. 
Over-government  and  over-guidance  have  taken 
away  from  them  the  stimulus  and  necessity  of 
self-government.  They  cheerfully  fall  in  with 
this  order  of  things  which  would  be  so  galling 
to  us,  and  think  that  everything  must  be  done 
by  legislation.  They  have  never  yet  come  up 
to  the  truth  “ that  the  function  of  government 
is  negative  and  restrictive  rather  than  positive 
and  active.” 


178 


Egypt’s  princes. 


We  brought  a supply  of  books  with  us,  of 
which  the  scribes  who  were  over  the  works 
bought  freely. 

30/A.  Preached  in  the  morning  in  the  church 
on  Luke  i.  57  to  the  end,  and  in  the  afternoon 
on  Romans  i.  Also  at  11  a.  m.  to  a company 
of  fourteen  travelers  on  Mr.  Fellow’s  boat.  The 
dahabiyehs  of  travelers  were  now  coming  in 
great  numbers,  and  we  who  had  before  longed 
for  some  one  occasionally  to  speak  a word  of 
English  to  us,  had  now  a plenty  of  gay  society. 
We  were  now  in  the  midst  of  the  holydays,  and 
almost  every  evening  were  invited  out  to  dine, 
which,  after  our  long  dieting  on  the  dry  market 
of  Luxor,  was  very  grateful. 


THE  WINDS. 


179 


CHAPTER  VII. 

31s<  and  January  ls£.  Terribly  cold,  windy 
days,  so  that  we  were  not  able  to  get  out  much, 
and  inside,  too,  we  were  forced  to  sit  in  the  dark, 
as  to  keep  out  the  wind  we  had  to  close  the 
shutter  of  our  only  unglazed  window,  and  even 
then  a storm  of  wind  and  sand  came  in  through 
the  crevices  around  it.  This  was  a south  wind, 
and  all  winter  I noticed  that  our  cold  winds  came 
from  the  south.  This  particularly  struck  me  as 
it  was  so  contrary  to  our  expei’ience  iu  Cairo, 
where  our  south  wind  is  always  a hot  wind,  or 
sirocco.  It  is  also  very  contrary  to  the  theory 
framed  by  Herodotus  2,300  years  ago.  This  is 
such  a precious  bit  of  philosophy  that  I cannot 
forbear  quoting  it.  He  says  : 

“ It  is  the  sun,  also,  in  my  opinion,  which,  by 
heating  the  space  through  which  it  passes,  makes 
the  air  iu  Egypt  so  dry.  There  is  thus  perpetual 
summer  in  the  upper  parts  of  Lybia.  Were  the 
position  of  the  heavenly  regions  reversed,  so  that 
the  place  where  now  the  north  wind  and  the 


180 


Egypt’s  princes. 


winter  have  their  dwelling  became  the  station 
of  the  south  wind  and  of  the  noonday,  while  on 
the  other  hand  the  station  of  the  south  wind  be- 
came that  of  the  north,  the  consequence  would 
be  that  the  sun,  driven  from  the  midheaven  by 
the  winter  and  the  northern  gales,  would  betake 
himself  to  the  upper  parts  of  Europe,  as  he  now 
does  to  those  of  Lybia,  and  then  I believe  his 
passage  across  Europe  would  affect  the  Ister 
exactly  as  the  Nile  is  affected  at  the  present 
day.  And  with  respect  to  the  fact  that  no 
breeze  blows  from  the  Nile,  I am  of  opinion 
that  no  wind  is  likely  to  arise  in  very  hot  coun- 
tries, for  breezes  love  to  blow  from  some  cold 
quarter.  Let  us  leave  these  things  however  to 
their  natural  course,  to  continue  as  they  are  and 
have  been  from  the  beginning.” 

So  wTe  too  will  return  to  the  thread  of  our 
story,  and  let  these  things  take  their  natural 
course  until  Professor  Maury  can  come  over  and 
set  them  right,  or  at  least  explain  why  they  are 
as  they  are. 

We  may,  however,  be  permitted  to  remark 
that  if  the  above  extract  be  a fair  specimen  of 
the  state  of  Grecian  philosophy  in  the  time  of 
Herodotus,  he  should  not  be  accused  as  he  is  by 
Plutarch  of  “malevolence  towards  the  Greeks” 
for  admitting,  as  he  often  freely  does,  that  the 
Greeks  were  indebted  to  the  Egyptians  for  most 
of  their  scientific  as  well  as  mythological  ideas  ; 


BOOKS. 


181 


and  Cicero,  who  received  at  second  hand  from 
the  Greeks  the  few  ideas  which  he  was  accus- 
tomed to  propound,  bombastically  flattered  his 
Greek  masters  at  the  expense  of  truth,  when 
he  said  that  Mercury  (the’  Egyptian  Thoth) 
went  from  Arcadia  to  Egypt  and  gave  laws  and 
learning  to  the  Egyptians,  and  that  Actius,  the 
son  of  Sol,  being  an  Astronomer,  went  from 
Greece  to  Egypt,  where  he  founded  the  city  of 
Heliopolis. 

2d.  Took  Father  Makhiel  and  a bag  of  books 
and  started  for  Zeiniyeh  and  1ST egali  El  Hattab. 
At  the  former  village,  which  is  about  an  hour’s 
ride  to  the  north  of  Luxor,  we  found  a few  Copts 
who  bought  nearly  all  our  books,  and  so  we 
turned  back.  On  our  way  back  we  met  another 
Copt  who  was  from  N egad  eh,  to  whom  we  also 
sold  a Bible  and  a Testament. 

8 d.  Makhiel  took  a fresh  supply  of  books  and 
returned  to  the  latter  place,  where  he  found 
about  500  Copts  to  whom  he  sold  books  to  the 
amount  of  166.20  piastres.  The  Christians  of 
these  two  villages  have  no  churches  of  their 
own,  so  they  must  worship  at  Luxor,  and  on 
feast  days  and  great  occasions  they  go  to  the 
Convent  of  Pachomius,  about  two  hours’  distant 
in  the  edge  of  the  Eastern  desert. 

To-day  I had  a high  scene  with  the  bishop. 
The  time  had  come  around  for  paying  the  areef 
and  Antonius  their  second  month’s  wages.  The 
16 


132 


Egypt’s  princes. 


former,  Monsur  had  paid  last  month  through  the 
bishop — at  least  he  had  given  the  bishop  the 
money  for  him,  but  the  poor  areef  complained 
that  but  a small  pittance  of  it  had  reached  him, 
and  this  month  he  wished  the  money  to  pass 
directly  from  “our  hand  to  his.”  So  on  reaching 
the  episcopal  palace  I said  that  the  time  had 
come  around  for  paying  them,  and  asked  that 
the  areef  might  first  be  called  up.  This  called 
forth  a good  deal  of  hemming  and  hawing,  with 
sundry  nervous  twitchings  on  his  chair,  and  a 
hint  that  he  could  hand  him  the  money ; but  I 
persisted,  and  finally  the  areef  had  to  be  sent  for, 
though  the  point  was  yielded  with  the  apprecia- 
tive remark,  “ I suppose  you  wish  to  pay  him 
his  wages  in  his  own  hand.”  When  he  came 
up  I said,  “ O Areef,  your  wages  are  seventy 
piastres,  are  they  not  ? commencing  at  such  a 
time;  and  you  have  received  one  month’s  wages, 
and  now  another  is  due,  is  it  not  so  ?”  He  hesi- 
tated and  did  not  answer,  when  the  bishop  made 
a terrible  effort,  and  brought  up  from  his  poor, 
fasting  stomach  a most  emphatic  “Yes,”  though 
the  effort  made  the  perspiration  start,  which  in 
another  moment  came  rolling  down  in  great 
dirty  globules  like  peas.  The  areef  did  not  dare 
contradict  him,  and  so  I paid  him  his  month’s 
wages  and  sent  him  back.  But  now  came  the 
more  difficult  case  of  Antonins.  I had  not  been 
able  to  bring  this  worthy  down  to  anything  like 


A SCENE. 


183 


work.  He  would  neither  come  regularly  to  read 
with  me,  nor  would  he  study  the  Testament  as 
I urged  him  much  to  do,  that  he  might  be  pre- 
pared for  the  discharge  of  his  priestly  functions, 
and  my  duty  in  his  case  was  plain.  It  was  that 
indicated  by  Paul  in  the  aphorism  “ that  if  any 
would  not  work,  neither  should  he  eat so,  after 
sending  for  him,  I commenced  with  his  rever- 
ence by  stating  certain  broad  principles  on  which 
we  act  in  such  matters,  which  are  embodied  in 
the  phrase  “ quid  pro  quo,"  and  also  as  to  our  re- 
sponsibility in  the  sight  of  God  for  a right  appli- 
cation of  mission  money ; but  he  could  not  see 
the  point  of  all  this,  and  I was  finally  forced  to 
meet  the  question  point  blank  and  refuse  to  give 
him  anything  until  he  should  earn  it,  either  in 
the  school,  or  in  reading  with  me,  or  in  dis- 
charging his  duty  as  priest.  This,  of  course, 
called  forth  a tremendous  outburst  from  the 
bishop,  and  in  the  midst  of  it  he  laid  bare  the 
whole  subject  in  one  sentence  by -saying  that 
“ Antonius  was  his  nephew,  and  had  been  well 
brought  up — that  he  had  made  him  priest  only 
to  save  him  from  the  conscription;  that  his  spirit 
was  too  big  to  beg  his  livelihood  from  the  poor 
fellaheen,  and  that  he  must  live.”  That  was  it  ; 
in  shorter  phrase — “ Too  proud  to  beg,  and  too 
lazy  to  work.”  Still  I carried  my  point,  and  am 
proud  of-  my  diplomacy  when  I say  that  I did  it 
without  a final  break  with  his  reverence.  This 


184 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


I knew  must  come  at  no  distant  day,  and  then , as 
often  before,  I was  strongly  tempted  to  throw 
the  old  bishop  overboard  with  his  crew  of  igno- 
rant priests  and  all  belonging  to  him.  But  I knew 
that  should  I then  do  it,  the  poor  people  would 
have  to  go  along  with  him,  and  so  for  the  time 
I concluded  to  be  patient,  and  strive  slowly  to 
unloose  the  knots  and  bands  of  superstition  and 
priestcraft  by  which  they  were  bound  to  him, 
and  then  farewell  forever  to  this  system  of  policy. 
So  I bore  with  him,  sometimes  storming,  some- 
times flattering,  meeting  craft  with  counter  craft? 
and  I felt  that  I was  fast  acquiring  the  wisdom 
of  the  serpent,  if  not  the  meekness  of  the  dove. 
And  yet  they  say  he  is  the  choice  of  the  thirteen 
bishops  of  the  Coptic  Church.  If  so,  I cannot 
help  feeling  that  it  would  be  a blessing  if  they 
all  with  their  priests  and  deacons,  and  monks, 
and  all  the  seven  orders  of  them,  could  be  instan- 
taneously prepared  for  heaven,  and  then  the 
earth  open  and 'swallow  them,  like  Korali  and 
his  company.  The  poor,  oppressed,  priest-ridden 
people  would  then  receive  the  Gospel  and  live. 

4 th.  Sjrent  most  of  the  day  in  the  house,  an 
unusual  thing  for  me,  as  for  the  most  part  I 
spent  my  days  in  the  open  air,  breathing  the  de- 
lightful, invigorating  air  of  the  Said,  and  exer- 
cising my  weak  lungs  in  talking  to  all  who 
would  listen.  Mustapha  bought  a Bible  and 
two  Testaments  for  his  two  sons  whom  Mrs.  L. 


OPPRESSIONS. 


185 


was  teaching.  The  Mufti  had  purchased  a Bible 
some  time  before* 

In  the  afternoon,  went,  as  was  our  custom,  to 
call  on  Lord  Haddo.  Our  sail  back  across  the 
river  almost  made  even  me  sentimental.  There 
were  three  steamers  with  a long  row  of  dahabi- 
yehs  lying  beloAV  Luxor,  and  their  bright  array 
of  torches  gleaming  on  the  bank  and  reflected 
from  the  water,  with  the  stately  columns,  and 
towering  propylon  of  the  temple  of  Luxor  rear- 
ing their  lofty  heads,  and  casting  their  lengthened 
shadows  in  the  background,  and  above, the  bright 
moon,  and  beneath,  the  placid  Nile,  and  all 
around, the  clustering  associations  of  “hundred- 
gated Thebes.”  It  was  enough  to  make  one  far 
less  poetical  sentimentalize.  But  the  exhilarating 
cup  was  dashed  from  my  lips  by  the  thought 
of  those  steamers.  One  of  them  was  occupied 
by  the  brother  of  the  King  of  Sweden,  the 
other  by  a Neapolitan  Prince,  and  the  third  by 
a Russian  consul.  All  these  were  the  guests  of 
the  Viceroy,  and  these  steamers  were  given  to 
them  free,  together  with  firmans  to  the  shaikhs 
> of  all  the  villages  to  levy  for  them  all  necessary 
supplies  from  the  peasants,  and  I am  sorry  to 
say  all  of  them  did  not  have  sense  enough  not  to 
avail  themselves  of  the  privilege.  Others  after- 
wards came  in  the  same  manner,  and  among 
them  Mr.  De  Leon,  our  American  Consul  Gen- 
eral. Now  I have  no  objections  to  the  Viceroy 
16* 


186 


Egypt’s  princes. 


of  Egypt  being  hospitable,  but  I cannot  without 
a flush  of  anger  see  this  hospitality  exercised  at 
the  expense  of  the  eggs,  and  chickens,  and  vege- 
tables of  the  poor  fallaheen.  Charity  begins  at 
home.  At  the  same  time  other  steamers  of  the 
Viceroy  were  taking  down  relays  of  hundreds 
of  forced  laborers  for  the  Suez  Canal.  These 
the  French  Company  agreed  to  pay  7 piastres* 
per  day  for  their  labor.  But  it  paid  their  wages 
to  the  Viceroy,  and  I need  not  say  that  but  little 
of  it  reached  the  fellaheen.  It  was  said  to  be 
consumed  in  expenses,  viz.,  in  taking  the  men 
down  to  the  works  and  back  again,  for  I have 
been  able  to  hear  of  no  other  expenses  which  the 
government  has  incurred  for  them. 

So,  instead  of  going  up  to  my  room  to  spin 
out  in  my  notes  long  sentimental  lucubrations 
about  our  moonlight  sail,  I merely  find  in  them, 
“ Delightful  sail  in  returning  from  Lord  Haddo’s 
boat.  Three  steamers  containing  so  and  so — all 
Pasha’s  guests — nonsense .”  Yes,  and  it  is  worse 
than  nonsense.  It  is  outrageous,  and  “ if  there 
be  treason  in  this,  then  let  those  who  may,  make 
the  most  of  it.” 

5 th.  Saturday.  Called  on  the  bishop  to  get  the 
Scripture  lessons  for  the  morrow.  He  was  too 
busy  to  attend  to  me,  overseeing  the  slaying  of 
a beef,  for  the  feast  which  was  to  commence 

*A  piastre  is  about  three  cents  and  a half,  United  States 
money. 


A BISHOP. 


187 


that  night  at  12  o’clock.  Part  of  the  beef  was 
sent  very  ostentatiously  to  the  poor,  and  the  rest 
was  left  for  him  and  his  household  to  break  their 
fast  upon,  and  for  the  entertainment  of  guests 
who  should  come  from  distant  places  to  keep  the 
feast.  On  such  occasions  the  priests  are  put  to 
considerable  expense,  as  they  are  expected  to  be 
hospitable ; but  they  can  afford  it.  This  feast, 
I should  mention,  was  their  Christmas,  accord- 
ing to  their  old-style  calendar,  to  which  the 
Copts  in  common  with  the  Greeks  and  the  other 
oriental  sects  still  cling. 

In  the  evening  I went  to  the  church  to  wit- 
ness the  ceremonies,  and  remained  until  11 
o’clock.  I found  the  bishop  sitting  in  his  chair 
of  state,  in  the  central  nave  of  the  church  ; and 
never  before  realized  how  exact  a copy  the  Cop- 
tic dress  and  ceremonial  are  of  the  old  Egyptian 
ones  used  in  the  service  of  the  gods  as  portrayed 
on  the  old  temple  walls.  He  was  arrayed  in  a 
purple  robe  all  blazing  with  gold,  with  a tall 
mitre  on  his  head  like  a veritable  Amun  Re.  In 
his  right  hand  he  held  a serpent-headed  sceptre, 
and  in  his  left  the  cross,  which,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  loop  on  the  top,  is  exactly  like  the 
old  symbol  of  life  so  invariably  seen  in  the  hands 
of  the  old  deities,  while  the  people  in  the  same 
manner  were  kissing  it,  and  bowing  and  praying 
and  offering  incense  to  him.  The  whole  made 
me  feel  that  I was  in  some  ancient  temple  of  the 


188 


Egypt’s  princes. 


heathen  Egyptians,  in  which  the  sculptures  had 
simply  started  into  life. 

Then,  too, there  were  some  things  which  were 
intensely  Jewish.  The  officiating  priests  had  to 
be  blessed,  and  their  garments  crossed  and  breath- 
ed upon.  Thus  this  Moses  “ sanctified  Aaron 
and  his  garments  and  his  sons,  and  his  sons’  gar- 
ments with  them.”  And  then  a whole  dish  of 
common  cakes  were  brought  to  him,  and  after  a 
very  minute  examination  of  them  one  was  chosen 
which  was  “ without  spot  or  blemish”  for  the 
sacrifice  of  the  mass.  So  too  the  old  Egyptian 
priests  turned  over  and  over  and  examined  the 
kine  which  were  offered  in  sacrifice  to  Apis. 
Herodotus  thus  describes  the  process  : 

“ One  of  the  priests  appointed  for  the  purpose 
searches  to  see  if  there  is  a single  black  hair  on 
the  whole  body,  since  in  that  case  the  beast  is 
unclean.  He  examines  him  all  over,  standing  on 
his  legs,  and  again  laid  upon  his  back ; after 
Avhich  he  takes  the  tongue  out  of  his  mouth  to 
see  if  it  be  clean  in  respect  of  the  prescribed 
marks.  He  also  inspects  the  hairs  of  the  tail  to 
see  if  they  grow  naturally.  If  the  animal  is  pro- 
nounced clean  in  all  these  various  points,  the 
priest  marks  him  by  twisting  a piece  of  papyrus 
round  his  horns,  and  attaching  thereto  some 
sealing  clay,  which  he  then  stamps  with  his  own 
signet-ring.  After  this  the  beast  is  led  away ; 
and  it  is  forbidden  under  penalty  of  death  to 


PRIESTLY  CORRUPTIONS. 


189 


sacrifice  an  animal  which  has  not  been  mai'ked 
in  this  way.” 

The  bishop  himself  performed  mass,  and  the 
whole  service  lasted  till  midnight,  when  feasting 
and  drinking  commenced  and  were  kept  up  the 
rest  of  the  night. 

6 th.  Sabbath.  I need  hardly  .say  there  was  no 
service  in  the  church  to-day.  They  had  “ prayed” 
enough  last  night  to  suffice  for  this  Sabbath,  and 
besides,  half  the  people  were  yet  engaged  in  the 
debauch  then  commenced,  and  the  other  half 
were  sleeping  off  its  effects.  It  is  one  of  the 
saddest  proofs,  as  well  as  exhibitions  of  the  deep 
corruption  of  the  Coptic  church,  that  obedience 
to  the  church’s  talmud  secures  impunity  in  the 
transgression  of  God’s  commands  and  the  neglect 
of  his  ordinances.  If  a man  only  tythes  mint  and 
anise  and  cummin  in  his  observance  of  the  tra- 
ditions of  the  elders,  he  may  safely  say  Corban  of 
all  the  weightier  matters  of  the  law.  He  may  be 
a Sabbath-breaker,  liar,  thief,  and  profane  person, 
indeed  he  may  live  in  the  open  transgression  of  all 
the  precepts  of  the  moral  code,  and  yet  maintain 
his  “ good  and  regular  standing”  in  the  church. 
But  if  in  accordance  with  the  precept  of  the 
Apostle,  “to  let  no  man  judge  him  in  meat  or 
drink,  or  in  respect  of  an  holy  day  or  of  the  new 
moon  or  of  the  Sabbath  days,”  lie  presumes  to 
break  one  of  the  appointed  fasts  or  transgress 
even  the  least  of  the  precepts  of  the  church,  it  is 


190 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


a crime  to  be  punished  by  the  judges,  for  the 
priests  cannot  forgive  it.  “ Thus  they  make 
void  the  law  of  God  by  their  traditions.” 

But  though  thus  relieved  from  public  duty,  it 
was  not  an  idle  day  for  me.  A few  of  the  people 
were  sober,  and  they  came  to  me,  and  among 
them  a squad  of  scribes  from  Erment  came  to 
spend  the  afternoon,  and  I need  hardly  say  that 
the  doings  of  the  last  evening,  and  of  that  day, 
gave  me  ample  topics  of  discourse.  In  the  even- 
ing, too,  we  had  a pleasant  meeting  Avith  them  at 
Monsur’s  room. 

'Jth.  In  the  forenoon  went  over  the  river  for 
an  excursion  and  sight-seeing  with  Mr.  Phelps, 
of  Ncav  York,  and  family.  It  was  a great  pleas- 
ure to  meet  there  this  gentleman,  and  many  other 
Christian  men  and  women,  who  encouraged  us 
in  our  work,  and  their  Christian  fellowship  was 
most  refreshing.  Mr.  Phelps  is  a member  of  the 
Board  of  Managers  of  our  American  Bible  Soci- 
ety, and  what  he  saw  here  of  our  work  enabled 
him  to  do  us  good  service  on  returning  home. 

At  the  bishop’s  in  the  afternoon  I chanced  to 
meet  together  the  three  priests  of  the  town; 
gave  them  a lecture  on  the  proper  discharge  of 
their  duties  as  pastors  and  teachers  of  the  people, 
and  urged  them  to  come  regularly  to  me  that  I 
might  instruct  them,  and  also  urged  the  bishop 
to  send  them.  In  doing  this  I found  that  the 
highest  argument  which  I could  bring  really  to 


TEACHING. 


191 


bear  upon  their  minds  was  a selfish  one.  I told 
them  that  they  now  saw  that  the  people  were 
determined  to  be  enlightened  — that  all  these 
Bibles  and  books,  which  they  had  bought  and 
were  reading,  must  have  their  legitimate  effect — 
that  the  times  of  the  old  ignorance  were  now 
past — that  they  could  not  stop,  even  if  they 
would,  this  onward  movement  or  obscure  this 
light — that  to  attempt  to  do  so  would  only  be 
like  trying  to  eclipse  the  sun  by  raising  against  it 
their  palms,  and  that  their  only  true  policy  was 
to  fall  in  with,  instead  of  breasting,  the  popular 
current,  or  they  would  soon  find  themselves  left 
high  and  dry  on  the  banks.  They  complained 
bitterly  of  the  niggardly  manner  in  which  the 
people  supported  them  ; which  I contrasted  with 
the  liberal  manner  in  which  the  people  deal  with 
the  clergy  in  our  land,  and  assured  them  that 
when  they  should  thus  do  their  duty,  they  too 
would  be  thus  appreciated  and  bountifully  dealt 
with. 

8 tli.  Saw  the  priests  again,  and  urged  upon 
them  the  same  subject.  They  agreed  to  meet 
me  regularly  every  evening  at  Monsur’s  room, 
and  that  night  we  met  for  the  first,  and  I com- 
menced expounding  to  them  1st  Timothy. 

A steamer  came  bringing  another  party  of  the 
Viceroy’s  guests.  A number  of  his  dismissed 
employees  had  also  taken  the  opportunity  of 
coming  up  in  her  to  see  some  lands,  with  which, 


192  Egypt’s  princes. 

on  being  dismissed  from  the  government  service, 
they  had  been  pensioned.  I may  here  state, 
that  some  months  ago  the  Viceroy  was  seized 
with  a spasm  of  economy,  which  led  him  to  dis- 
miss hundreds  of  the  government  employees, 
many  of  whom  holding  sinecures  should  long 
before  have  been  dispensed  with,  but  many  others 
were  useful  public  servants,  who  were  labori- 
ously filling  important  public  offices.  But  it 
was  a broad  sweep  of  “ Islahh,”  which  in  west- 
ern phrase  means  “retrenchment  and  reform,” 
and  good  and  bad  went  alike.  But  so  paternal 
a government  as  we  here  have  could  not  thus 
throw  them  upon  the  cold  charities  of  the  world 
unprovided  for,  and  so  it  gave  them  lands  for 
their  future  support.  This  was  done  by  send- 
ing around  to  the  shaikhs  of  the  villages  to  know 
what  public  lands  were  still  left  unoccupied,  con- 
nected with  each  village.  These  were  divided 
into  parcels  of  varying  sizes,  and  then  distrib- 
uted by  lot  to  the  pensioners  ; each  one  receiv- 
ing a number  of  acres  proportioned  to  the  years 
he  had  spent  in  the  service.  By  this  arrange- 
ment some  of  them  received  very  valuable  prop  * 
erties,  but  the  majority  received  what  was  quite 
valueless,  as  lying  either  too  high  or  too  low  to 
render  the  inundation  of  the  Nile  available  for 
culture.  A number  also  received  old  burying- 
grounds,  and  in  some  instances  those  which  were 
still  in  use.  One  of  these  who  had  now  come, 


A PLAN. 


193 


found  that  his  lot  had  given  him  the  high  ridge 
back  of  the  village  occupied  by  the  Christian 
cemetery,  and  one  corner  of  which  had  also  been 
set  apart  for  invalid  Europeans  dying  on  the 
Nile.  Of  course  he  had  nothing  to  do  but  go 
back  to  Cairo  and  represent  his  case,  and  in  the 
course  of  months,  by  a system  of  log-rolling  and 
bribing  of  under  officials,  he  might  succeed  in 
getting  it  changed.  He  amused  me  much  by 
narrating  how  another  one  similarly  situated 
with  himself  had  managed.  He  went  to  the 
village  where  the  lot  had  cast  his  portion,  and 
on  showing  the  paper  which  described  it  to  the 
shaikhs  of  the  village,  they  told  him  that  it  was 
the  burying  ground.  He  asked  them  what  was 
to  be  done,  and  if  they  could  not  give  him  an- 
other parcel  of  land  from  the  lands  of  the  village. 
They  told  him  they  had  no  other  unoccupied 
land,  and,  besides,  were  there,  they  had  no  au- 
thority to  make  the  exchange — that  he  must  go 
to  headquarters  at  Cairo.  He  had  no  inclination 
for  this,  and  so  laid  his  plan,  and  taking  a room 
in  the  village  settled  down  apparently  to  rest 
awhile  from  the  fatigues  of  the  journey.  After 
a few  days  he  heard  early  one  morning  the  death- 
wail,  and  sending  his  servant  out  to  inquire  who 
was  dead,  found  that  it  was  one  of  the  shaikhs 
of  the  village — a man  held  in  great  respect  in 
all  the  surrounding  country.  I should  have  men- 
tioned that  he  was  a Turk,  and  had  been  in  the 
11 


194 


Egypt’s  princes. 


military  branch  of  the  service,  and  that  the  Turks 
always  carry  with  them  a prestige  of  terror  with 
the  Arabs.  So  he  said  to  his  servant : “ Make 
haste  and  hand  me  down  my  sword  and  pistols, 
and  make  ready  eatables  and  drinkables.  I 
shall  go  out  to  smell  the  air  to-day.”  The  serv- 
ant did  as  he  was  directed,  though  not  a little 
surprised  on  finding  his  master  insisting  on  a 
very  liberal  provision  of  arrack  being  made,  and 
was  also  astonished  on  going  out  to  find  that 
his  master’s  taste  led  him  to  the  gateway  of  the 
burying-ground  instead  of  some  shady  nook  on 
the  banks  of  the  Nile  for  his  day’s  enjoyment. 
He,  however,  had  nothing  to  do  but  obey  orders, 
so  he  spread  the  carpet  for  his  master,  who  im- 
mediately, as  the  phrase  is,  commenced  “ filling 
his  head  with  arrack.”  Soon  the  funeral  pro- 
cession emerged  from  the  village,  and  slowly 
wended  its  way  to  the  burying-ground.  The 
blind  shaikhs  were  in  advance,  chanting  the 
confession  of  faith,  then  the  bier,  and  then  the 
friends  and  neighbors  and  mourning  women. 
It  was  a great  funeral,  for  the  deceased  was  a 
highly  respected  man  in  the  village.  When  they 
came  up  to  the  gate  he  sprang  forth  like  an 
affreet  with  sword  in  one  hand  and  pistol  in  the 
other,  which  he  brandished  over  their  heads 
while  he  swore  a great,  oath  that  the  first  man 
who  advanced  a step  to  enter  the  gate  was  a 
dead  man.  They  of  course  were  unarmed,  and 


- ITS  SUCCESS. 


195 


they  saw  besides,  that  the  fumes  of  arrack  were 
playing  with  his  brain,  and  they  feared  and  fell 
back.  Then  the  elders  of  the  people  came  up  to 
him,  and  in  a spirit  of  peace  and  conciliation 
demanded  a parley,  when  they  represented  to 
him  that  this  would  not  answer,  but  was  a great 
shame,  as  he  and  they  were  all  brother  Moslems, 
and  the  deceased  was  a great  man  among  them, 
and  they  adjured  him  by  the  life  of  Mohammed, 
and  the  head  of  the  Viceroy,  and  by  his  own 
head  and  beard,  that  he  let  them  pass  in  peace 
and  bury  their  dead.  But  he  in  reply  swore 
by  the  life  of  all  these  deities,  and  sundry  other 
outlandish  Turkish  ones,  that  he  would  not  let 
them  pass — that  he  had  received  the  burying 
ground  by  the  allotment  of  fate  and  the  munifi- 
cence of  the  Viceroy,  and  that  it  was  his,  and  he 
must  make  his  livelihood  out  of  it,  and  that  he 
would  only  let  them  pass  on  condition  that  they 
pay  him  500  piastres ; and  the  result  was  that 
they  were  obliged  to  come  to  his  terms  and  pay 
the  money,  when  he  suffered  them  to  pass.  He 
told  them,  moreover,  that  this  would  hereafter 
be  the  regular  price  for  a shaikh  or  great  man, 
but  that  he  would  allow  a common  man  to  be 
buried  for  300  piastres.  I need  only  add  that 
the  people  of  the  village  soon  after  had  a meet- 
ing at  which  they  decided  to  give  him  a por- 
tion of  good  arable  land  in  lieu  of  his  burying 
ground. 


196 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


9 th.  Received  and  answered  letters  from 
Osiout  showing  that  the  persecution  of  the 
priests  against  our  school  is  still  raging  there. 

Called  on  Mr.  Monier,  a Frenchman,  who  has 
resided  here  some  years,  and  has  built  a fine 
house  on  the  south  end  of  the  great  temple  of 
Luxor,  which  has  in  contrast  with  the  native 
mud  hovels  a very  comely  appearance  from  the 
river  and  all  the  surrounding  country.  Went 
below  his  house  to  see  the  last  court  and  sanctum 
of  the  temple.  But  alas!  what  a desecration  was 
there ! I found  he  had  converted  it  into  a pig- 
sty ! The  abomination  of  the  Egyptians  was 
here  in  the  Adytum — the  very  holy  of  holies  of 
the  temple.  The  countenances  of  the  old  gods, 
usually  so  placid,  seemed  covered  with  angry 
frowns,  and  the  scepters  to  tremble  in  their 
hands,  while  the  sacred  basilisks  in  their  crowns 
seemed  audibly  to  hiss,  though  Clement  of  Alex- 
andria, had  he  been  there,  might  have  insis- 
ted that  the  pigs  were  as  decent  occupants  as 
had  ever  been  there.  He  says : “ The  Egyptian 
temples,  and  the  propyla  or  gateways  before 
them,  and  their  courts  and  groves  and  conse- 
crated grounds,  are  all  superbly  decorated.  Their 
halls  also  are  supported  by  innumerable  pillars. 
Their  walls  glitter  with  precious  stones  and  with 
most  skillfully  executed  pictures.  The  shrines 
blaze  with  gold,  and  silver,  and  amber,  and  with 
variegated  marbles  from  India  and  Ethiopia.  The 


A VISION. 


197 


Adytum,  or  most  sacred  place,  is  overshadowed 
by  a curtain  embroidered  with  gold.  But  when 
you  enter  this  sacred  enclosure  and  are  anxious 
to  see  that  which  is  most  worthy  of  contempla- 
tion, inquire  for  the  image  of  the  divinity  that 
dwells  in  the  temple;  perhaps  a shrine-bearer  or 
some  other  minister  attached  to  the  worship 
that  is  performed  there,  looking  extremely  grave 
and  singing  a hymn  in  Egyptian,  draws  aside 
the  vail  a little  so  that  the  god  appears.  But 
instead  of  worshiping  him  you  burst  into  a 
hearty  laugh.  Instead  of  the  god  we  were  so 
anxious  to  see,  we  behold  a cat,  or  a crocodile, 
or  a common  snake,  or  some  such  foul  creature, 
altogether  unfit  to  be  in  a temple,  but  only  in 
their  places  in  dark  holes  and  mud.  Behold  the 
god  of  the  Egyptians ! A beast  reposing  on  a 
piece  of  purple  tapestry !” 

Ezekiel  saw  a similar  sight  in  the  temple  of 
God  at  Jerusalem — ch.  viii.  *7-12.  “And  he 
brought  me  to  the  door  of  the  court ; and  when 
I looked,  behold  a hole  in  the  wall.  Then  said 
he  unto  me,  Son  of  man,  dig  now  in  the  Avail ; and 
when  I had  digged  in  the  wall,  behold  a door. 
And  he'  said  unto  me,  Go  in  and  behold  the 
wicked  abominations  that  they  do  here.  So  I 
went  in  and  saAV,  and  behold  every  form  of 
creeping  things,  and  abominable  beasts,  and  all 
the  idols  of  the  house  of  Israel  portrayed  upon 
the  wall  round  about.  And  there  stood  before 
17* 


198 


Egypt’s  princes. 


them  seventy  men  of  the  ancients  'of  the  house 
of  Israel,  and  in  the  midst  of  them  stood  Jaaza- 
niah,  the  son  of  Shaphan,  with  every  man  his 
censer  in  his  hand,  and  a thick  cloud  of  incense 
went  up.  Then  said  he  unto  me,  Son  of  man, 
hast  thou  seen  what  the  ancients  of  the  house  of 
Israel  do  in  the  dark,  every  man  in  the  chambers 
of  his  imagery  ? for  they  say  the  Lord  seeth  us 
not ; the  Lord  hath  forsaken  the  earth.” 

This  passage  shows  that  the  Israelites  of  Eze- 
kiel’s time  had  made  a large  importation  of 
Egyptian  idolatry.  The  picture  which  he  saw 
in  vision  is  most  faithful  to  the  originals.  The 
“ dark  chambers  in  connection  with  the  temples 
with  secret  doors  leading  to  them,  the  creeping 
things  and  abominable  beasts,  and  idols  por- 
trayed upon  the  walls  round  about  in  these 
chambers  of  imagery ; the  ancients  of  the  house 
of  Israel,  with  every  man  his  censer  in  his  hand, 
so  that  a thick  cloud  of  incense  went  up  ” — an 
artist  might  almost  draw  an  Egyptian  temple 
from  the  description.  For  my  part  I must  frown 
with  Ezekiel  on  beholding,  as  I here  daily  must, 
these  abominations  in  the  temple  of  God  ; but 
I laughed  heartily  with  old  Clement  at  the 
French  idea  of  the  pigs  in  the  Adytum  of  the 
old  heathen  temple,  and  will  leave  enthusiastic 
Egyptologers  to  frown.  I had  done  enough  of 
this  at  this  same  drove  of  pigs  for  the  depreda- 
tions which  I had  seen  they  were  allowed  to 


EPISCOPAL  POWER. 


199 


make  on  the  unfencecl  and  unhedged  crops  of 
the  poor  fellaheen,  as  well  as  the  unnecessary 
offence  of  their  presence  to  the  prejudices  of  the 
Muslems.  The  fields  in  Egypt  are  only  separated 
by  “landmarks”  as  in  old  Jewish  times,  and  so 
the  peasants  had  no  protection  against  them  ex- 
cept to  guard  their  crops  by  night  and  by  day.1 
Had  they  belonged  to  a native,  there  would 
have  been  a legal  remedy ; but  Mr.  M.  was  a 
Frenchman,  and  we  Franks  are  privileged  per- 
sons in  Egypt.  I must,  however,  do  Mr.  M.  the 
justice  to  say  that  I do  not  know  that  he  was 
aware  of  the  nuisance  his  pigs  were  to  the 
neighbors,  as  he  was  seldom  there.  He  had 
given  two  of  his  pigs  to  the  bishop,  and  these 
were  not  treated  with  the  same  immunity ; for 
one  day  on  calling  on  his  reverence,  I found  him 
in  a towering  passion,  and  he  had  just  fulminated 
an  episcopal  thunderbolt  of  excommunication 
against  any  and  every  one  of  his  flock  who 
should  purchase  meat  from  the  butcher  of  the 
town,  who  was  a Muslem.  I found  on  inquiry 
that  the  pigs  had  got  out  of  the  enclosure  of  the 
bishop  and  entered  the  field  of  the  butcher,  and , 
done  some  damage  to  his  crops,  when  he  had 
gone  by  night  and  poisoned  them  both.  So  the 
poor  Christians  had  no  alternative  left  them  but  to 
enter  upon  a second  Lent, unless, indeed, they  might 
choose  to  eat  poisoned  pork ; and  the  butcher  had 
to  shut  up  shop  as  far  as  his  Christian  custom- 


200 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


ers  were  concerned,  and  of  course  he  was  soor 
brought  penitent  enough  to  the  episcopal  con- 
fessional, and  very  cheerfully  performed  the  pre- 
scribed penance,  when  the  episcopal  bull  was 
recalled  and  chained,  and  the  Christians  ate  meat 
again.  This  incident  tempts  me  as  usual  to  go 
into  a long  digression  describing  like  puttings 
forth  of  the  episcopal  prerogative, and  the  happy 
consequences  in  securing  the  authority  of  the 
Church ; but  I will  spare  my  readers.  One  bishop 
I know  who  has  left  a whole  village  under  the 
ban  unto  this  day, because  he  found  one  morning 
that  the  saddle  cloth  of  his  ass  had  taken  French 
leave  during  the  night. 

An  instructive  incident  occurred  this  after- 
noon. I was  sitting  in  the  porch  beside  Mus- 
tapha,  when  a very  venerable  old  man,  a religious 
shaikh  from  Gournou  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river,  came  up.  Mustapha,  who  would  not  readily 
be  charged  by  any  one  with  being  a very  super- 
stitious Muslem,  received  him  with  great  rever- 
ence, and  after  kissing  his  hand  bade  him  be 
seated  on  a chair  which  stood  near.  The  old 
man  declined,  when  Mustapha  adjured  him  to 
take  it  and  be  seated.  The  other  answered, 
“ Am  I a man  to  sit  on  a chair  ? a chair  is  not 
for  the  like  of  me,”  and  squatted  on  the  ground. 
Mustapha  invited  him  to  stay  and  eat,  but  this 
he  also  declined,  when  Mustapha  said,  “ Then 
pray  a fatihah  (opening  chapter  of  the  Koran) 


INCIDENTS. 


201 


for  me;”  when  the  old  man  arose,  and,  holding 
his  open  hands  before  his  face  as  if  reading  from 
a book,  as  is  the  custom  of  the  Muslems  in  many 
of  their  prayers,  he  repeated  the  chapter.  Mus- 
tapha  then  gave  him  a present,  and  he  left  his 
blessing  and  departed.  The  incident  showed 
the  reverence  in  which  such  characters  are  held 
by  the  people,  and  the  efficacy  which  they  attach 
to  the  repetition  of  the  Fatihah. 

The  bishop  to-day  seemed  very  discontented 
and  cross.  The  evening  exercise  with  the  priests 
seemed  to  prosper  and  promise,  and  the  people 
at  once  hailed  it  as  a hope  for  something  better 
than  dead  Coptic  prayers  and  masses  in  their 
church  services ; but  the  bishop  seemed  to  think 
that  in  this  also  I had  stolen  a march  upon 
him. 


« 


202 


Egypt’s  princes. 


CHAPTER  A III. 

10th.  Thought  it  would  do  bis  reverence  good 
to  take  him  for  a call  on  Mr.  Phelps  and  party, 
and  sent  him  word  accordingly.  He  sent  back 
a short  answer  that  he  was  not  well  and  could 
not  go,  and  at  noon  Monsur  came  and  told  me 
that  he  had  called  him  up  from  school  and  given 
him  a very  sharp  talking  to.  So  in  the  afternoon 
I went  to  call  on  him.  I went  with  the  expec- 
tation of  a scene,  and  was  not  disappointed. 
When  he  saw  me  enter  the  room  he  averted  his 
countenance,  and,  indeed,  turned  his  back  squarely 
upon  me,  with  his  face  to  the  wall.  I asked 
him  what  the  matter  was,  and  he  answered  me 
curtly  that  he  “ did  not  know  us  Americans — 
that  he  knew  the  English,  and  they  were  his 
friends.”  I,  however,  had  no  idea  of  allowing 
him  thus  to  cut  my  acquaintance,  and  so  I entered 
and  took  my  seat  beside  him,  and  commenced 
tugging  at  his  sleeve  and  expostulating  with 
him.  All  I could  get  from  him  for  a long  time 
was  that  the  English  were  his  friends,  and  that 


THE  BISHOP. 


203 


Mr.  and  Mrs.  Leider  were  the  right  kind  of  mis- 
sionaries ; that  lie  had  long  known  them,  and 
they  had  always  befriended  him,  but  that  ever 
since  his  acquaintance  with  us  all  had  gone 
wrong  with  him.  I knew  he  had  sufficient 
reasons,  special  as  well  as  general,  for  such  a 
conclusion,  but  I soon  found  that  the  occasion 
of  the  present  pout  was  the  loss  of  a pole  from 
the  sakia  in  his  garden,  and  I forthwith  set  my- 
self to  comfort  him  to  the  best  of  my  ability.  I 
think  I have  never  before  been  called  to  quote 
the  consolatory  passages  of  our  holy  religion  on 
so  trivial  an  occasion,  and  after  a time  I suc- 
ceeded. lie  again  turned  his  face  full  and  pleas- 
ant upon  me,  and  I rejoiced  once  more  in  the 
light  of  his  countenance.  Poor  man  ! transport- 
ing myself  for  a moment  to  his  shoes,  and  trying 
to  look  at  things  as  he  must  view  them,  I could 
not  but  feel  that  my  course  had  been  a very  try- 
ing one  to  him,  and  as  he  had  now  melted  down 
so  nicely,  I too  grew  soft,  and  relaxed  my  hard- 
pressed  grasp  and  gave  him  a second  £ (I  had 
given  him  one  soon  after  coming)  on  school-rent 
account.  This,  for  the  time,  made  him  forget  the 
affair  of  Antonius,  and  that  of  Fadil  Pasha,  and 
all  the  rest  of  his  grievances,  and  so  I seized  the 
opportunity  to  introduce  another  subject  which 
had  lately  been  on  my  mind.  He  had  spoken 
of  his  friends?  the  Leidors.  Mrs.  L.  had  some 
time  before  sent  him  a couple  pictures,  the  one 


204 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


I think  a baptismal  scene,  and  the  other  a pic- 
ture  of  some  English  beauty,  intending,  I sup- 
pose, that  he  should  hang  them  in  his  room  to 
give  it  an  air  of  taste  and  cheerfulness ; but  he 
had  supposed  that  they  were  for  the  church,  and 
so  had  suspended  them  there  among  the  staring 
pictures  of  the  Virgin  and  saints  by  native 
artists,  and  I noticed  that 'when  travelers  visited 
the  church  he  took  special  pride  in  pointing 
out  these  pictures  to  them,  and  telling  that 
they  were  from  Mrs.  Leider.  I now  told  him 
that  I was  sure  she  had  no  idea  of  his  applying 
them  to  such  a use ; that  we  Protestants  are  all 
very  much  opposed  to  the  use  of  pictures  in  the 
church,  and  that  the  next  thing  he  would  hear 
would  be  that  some  one  of  these  travelers  had 
gone  to  Cairo  and  reported  to  Mrs.  L.,  or  gone 
to  England  and  informed  the  public  there,  that 
Protestant  missionaries  in  Egypt  were  furnish- 
ing Coptic  churches  with  pictures  for  worship, 
when  he  would  soon  have  Mrs.  L.  down  upon 
him  with  her  full  weight,  and  he  would  repent 
his  putting  the  pictures  in  the  church.  This  all 
took  him  aback.  He  thanked  me  for  interfering, 
and  promised  to  take  down  the  pictures.  After 
a good  deal  more  of  talk, 'I  left  him  in  a much 
more  amiable  frame  of  mind  than  when  I came, 
and  entertaining  better  opinions  of  American 
missionaries. 

Next  went  down  to  Lord  Haddo’s  boat,  and 


A RIFLE  PRACTICE. 


205 


found  him  in  spirit  for  some  rifle  practice.  He 
had  a couple  fine  rifles,  and  putting  up  a mark 
far  away  on  the  shore,  we  tried  our  hand.  In 
his  weakness  he  was  forced  to  rest  his  piece  on 
the  skylight  of  the  dahabiyeh,  while  I held  mine 
at  arm’s  length ; and  we  fired  with  a result  which 
afterwards  brought  the  rifle  up  to  me,  with  a 
neat  note,  stating  that  I had  deserved  it  and 
must  keep  it  as  a memento  of  our  pleasant  win- 
ter’s work  together.  May  English  lords  and 
American  plebeians  never  have  occasion  for  other 
rifle  practice  than  the  like  of  this. 

1 1 lh.  The  bishop  called  and  Avas  “as  good  as 
pie.”  I asked  him  if  he  had  yet  taken  down  the 
pictures.  He  said,  no,  but  he  intended  doing  it 
that  afternoon.  I said,  While  you  are  about 
it,  make  a clean  sweep  of  it  and  take  down  all 
the  pictures.  He  insisted  that  the  people  Avould 
not  stand  that,  and  I told  him  that  he  knew  that 
the  men  had  already  abandoned  the  worship  of 
them,  and  that  as  for  the  Avomen,  who  Avere 
accustomed  to  improve  the  opportunity  after  the 
men  left  the  church  to  have  a good  turn  at  beat- 
ing their  breasts  and  offering  their  prayers  before 
them,  they  also  would  soon  be  reconciled  to  the 
change,  and  then  all  would  thank  him  for  taking 
the  lead  in  a great  reform.  He,  however,  could 
not  be  convinced  of  this,  and  was  beginning  to 
regard  me  again  as  an  American  innovator, 
Avhen  the  subject  was  turned  by  Mustapha,  Avho, 
18 


206 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


sitting  by,  asked  what  we  were  whispering 
about,  when  I told  him,  “ Oh,  nothing,  only  I 
am  trying  to  pour  new  wine  into  old  bottles,” 
at  which  the  bishop  laughed  heartily.  Mustapha 
asked  for  further  explanation,  and  the  bishop 
was  pleased  that  I did  not  seem  inclined  farther 
to  expose  him.  But  it  was  now  Mustapha’s  turn 
to  try  the  episcopal  liberality,  or  rather  want 
of  it,  more  severely  than  even  I had  done.  I 
learned  soon  after  landing  there  that  these  two 
worthies  had  long  lived  at  swords’  points — that 
they  were  in  fact  the  recognized  heads  of  the 
two  opposing  factions  of  the  village.  The  line 
of  division  between  these  was  for  the  most  part 
the  one  which  in  most  places  separates  Chris- 
tian from  Muslem,  but  I found  here  the  two 
clans  overlapping  each  other.  Some  of  the 
Christians  adhered  to  Mustapha’s  party,  while  a 
few  of  the  Muslems  hated  Mustapha  and  favored 
the  bishop.  It  was  a great  trial  to  the  bishop 
at  first  that  I took  quarters  in  Mustapha’s  house, 
and  he  long  insisted  that  we  should  come  up 
and  chum  writh  him,  in  his  single  available  room 
above  the  church.  But  I feared  that  so  close 
a contact  would  soon  breed  familiarity  and  dis- 
gust, and  then  Mustapha’s  room  was  the  best, 
and,  indeed,  the  only  habitable  one  in  the  village. 
Besides,  I thought  it  policy  to  keep  in  with  both 
parties,  and  I afterwards  found  that  I was  able 
very  nicely  to  play  off  on  my  boards  bishop 


A SCENE. 


207 


against  Aga.  The  two  were  striving  to  keep  in 
ray  good-books,  and,  in  appearance  at  least,  were 
most  friendly  with  each  other.  The  people 
were  astonished  to  see  Mustapha  calling  on  the 
bishop  and  being  entertained  by  him  as  if  he 
were  an  old  friend,  and  to  see  him  on  the  other 
hand  holding  the  bishop’s  stirrup  while  mount- 
ing his  pony  at  his  door.  In  the  mean  time  I 
rode  the  bishop’s  pony  when  I needed  recreation, 
and  had  my  dinner  cooked  in  Mustapha’s  kitchen 
when  hungry. 

But  to  return  to  our  conference.  Mustapha 
now  proposed  to  the  bishop,  and  urged  very 
strongly,  that  the  Muslem  boys  should  be  per- 
mitted to  attend  our  school  at  the  church.  This 
proposition  was  the  result  of  a good  deal  of  talk 
and  reasoning  on  the  subject  which  I had  had 
with  him  day  by  day,  and  with  the  other  leading 
Moslems  of  the  place,  and  I was  delighted  to 
find  that  he  had  at  length  so  far  thrown  aside 
the  old  Muslem  bigotry  as  to  make  it ; but  how 
was  I astonished  and  disgusted  when  the  bishop 
responded  with  a most  emphatic  “ Only  your 
boys.”  I knew  in  general  how  strong  and 
mutual  the  feelings  of  dislike  between  the  two 
sects  are,  but  I was  not  prepared  for  such  an 
exhibition  of  Christian  bigotry  and  exclusive- 
ness, and  it  was  so  decided  that  I saw  that  there 
was  no  need  of  taking  up  an  argument  against 
it.  Indeed,  I was  stupefied,  and  could  have  said 


208 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


nothing  had  I wished,  and  so  the  subject  was 
immediately  dropped.  The  next  day,  of  course,  I 
took  the  bishop  to  task  for  it,  when  I was  no  less 
astonished  to  find  that  his  opposition  was  not  simp- 
ly the  result  of  the  general  antipathy  between  the 
sects,  but,  said  he,  “If  the  Muslems  come  to  the 
church  they  will  witness  our  rites  and  ceremo- 
nies and  make  sport  of  them.”  Alas  for  Chris- 
tianity when  her  adherents  have  to  be  ashamed 
of  her  rites ! 

In  talking  that  evening  with  Mustapha,  I was 
surprised  to  find  that  he  believed  in  the  lying 
miracles  of  St.  Pachomius.  But  so  it  is.  The 
more  I study  practically  and  in  their  modern 
developments  the  two  religions,  the  more  I see 
that  they  stand  on  common  grounds,  and  ac- 
knowledge common  principles,  and  consequently 
respect  one  another’s  superstitions,  and  the  true 
reason  of  the  bitter  enmity  between  them  is 
party  spirit,  and  that  for  the  most  part  political 
party  spirit.  The  one  has  its  saints,  and  the 
other  its  santons — the  one  its  Lent,  and  the  other 
its  Ramadan — the  one  its  hadj  to  Mecca,  and 
the  other  its  pilgrimage  to  Jerusalem — the  one 
its  Ave  Maria  and  our  Father,  and  the  other 
its  fatihah — the  one  says,  “ In  the  name  of  the 
Father,  and  Son,  and  Holy  Ghost,”  and  the 
other  testifies  that  there  is  no  deity  but  Allah, 
and  that  Mohammed  is  the  prophet  of  Allah; 
and  the  real  controversy  between  them  is  the  one 


DISTINCTIONS. 


209 


arising  from  ths  fact  that  the  one  is  the  ruling 
and  the  other  the  subject  race.  And  such,  too, 
one  must  conclude  on  reading  ancient  church 
history,  was  the  true  issue  between  Copts  and 
Greeks  in  those  hard-fought  battles  on  the  floors 
of  the  councils  of  Ephesus  and  Chalcedon,  and 
the  subsequent  councils.  The  Greeks  were 
the  “ melchite”  or  kingly  church,  basking  in  the 
favor  of  the  Greek  emperors  at  Constantinopls, 
and  the  spirit  which  made  Dioscorus  rave  like  a 
madman  was  not  the  famous  “ odium  theologi- 
cum,”  but  the  natural  jealousy  of  a subject  and 
depressed  race.  Monophysite  and  Monothelite 
shibboleths  were  mere  decoy  ducks — banners 
which  were  unfurled  to  catch  the  eye  of  the 
multitude  while  they  fought  the  battle — and 
when  the  Copts  were  finally  beaten  under  these, 
they  welcomed  the  Muslems  as  their  allies,  and 
in  so  doing  took  to  their  bosoms  a viper  which 
has  stung  them  to  this  day. 

This,  together  with  the  interview  of  the  day 
with  the  bishop,  opened  the  way  for  a long  and 
very  satisfactory  conversation  with  Mustapha 
and  the  Mufti.  The  latter  is  a very  fine  man. 
He  neither  smokes  nor  drinks  coffee — a rara 
avis  in  Arabdom — and  is  a very  good  Arabic 
scholar. 

To-day  word  came  from  England  that  Lord 
Aberdeen  had  closed  his  bng  and  eventful  ca- 
reer. The  intelligence  was  brought  from  Cairo 


210 


Egypt’s  princes. 


by  a Sir  Robert  Wilmot,  whose  servant  had  no 
more  sense,  on  reaching  Luxor,  than,  to  go  di- 
rectly to  Lord  Haddo’s  boat  and  bluntly  tell 
him  that  his  father  was  dead.  It  was  not  unex- 
pected, but  still  it  was  a sad  blow  to  him,  in  his 
weak  and  shattered  state,  thus  to  receive  the 
news.  His  own  letters  had  been  delayed  and 
came  the  next  day.  Lady  LI.  came  ashore,  and 
I went  with  her  to  Sir  Robert’s  boat,  when  we 
found  that  the  tidings  were  doubtless  correct ; 
but  had  the  servant  possessed  a little  of  the 
Arab  etiquette  in  such  matters,  he  would  have 
kept  quiet,  and  suffered  the  news  to  come  by 
regular  course  of  mail. 

Thus  the  longest  and  brightest  earthly  career 
must  have  its  close.  The  dying-messages  which 
came  gave  precious  evidence  that  the  busy  life 
had  been  succeeded  by  the  heavenly  rest.  In 
reviewing  that  life,  we  cannot  help  feeling  that 
its  great  error  was  the  not  comprehending  the 
old  Scotch  covenanting  spirit  which  had  its  re- 
surrection in  the  notable  “ ten  year’s  conflict  ” 
which  resulted  in  the  disruption  of  the  Church 
of  Scotland.  Perhaps  his  too  long  association 
with  English  politics  and  church  ideas  disquali- 
fied him  for  that  intimate'  sympathy  with  the 
Scotch  character  which  was  called  for  in  that 
crisis.  But  it  is  human  to  err,  and,  after  all, 
God  has  brought  good  out  of  that  great  evil. 
The  Free  Church  was  too  brilliant  a jewel  to  be 


TRUE  GREATNESS. 


211 


retained  in  its  sombre  setting  of  “ moderatism,” 
as  a mere  ornament  to  the  breast  of  patronage. 
May  it  long  blaze  in  the  mediatoral  crown  of 
King  Jesus. 

Hereafter  we  must  call  our  friends  Lord  and 
Lady  Aberdeen,  and  would  that  we  could  oftener 
see  an  earl  and  a countess  of  the  realm  engaged 
in  so  noble  a work  as  that  in  which  they  so  nobly 
and  zealously  lent  a helping  hand  that  winter.  I 
have  seen  people  at  home  in  our  democratic 
America  who  scout  at  aristocracy,  and  think 
that  titled  people  must  necessarily  be  proud,  and 
yet,  though  doubtless  very  good  Christian  peo- 
ple in  their  way,  they  are  above  distributing 
tracts,  and  many  other  humble  methods  of  serv- 
ing Christ.  They  must  do  what  they  do  in  a 
certain  conventional  style,  and  with  that  eclat 
and  circumstance  which  destroy  the  power  of 
Christian  effort.  Would  that  such  ones  could 
have  seen  this  earl,  too  weak  to  walk,  riding 
through  an  Arab  village,  selling  Testaments  to 
the  astonished  natives  who  crowded  around  him; 
and  his  good  lady,  day  after  clay  keeping  our 
book-accounts,  filling  our  colporteuring  bags, 
and  selling  perm/  tracts,  and  administering  to 
the  ailments  and  bodily  wants  of  the  little  dirty, 
sore-eyed  Arab  boys  who  crowded  down'to  their 
boat.  Such,  be  they  titled  or  not,  are  heaven’s 
aristocracy,  for  they  are  not  too  proud  to  serve  the 
King  of  Heaven,  even  in  the  humblest  capacity. 


212 


Egypt’s  princes. 


We  had  on  the  Nile  that  winter  another  Eng- 
lish earl  who  made  himself  notable  in  another 
way.  He  had  a punt  covered  Avith  canvas,  and 
which,  on  the  water,  looked  at  a distance  like  a 
crocodile.  In  the  jirow  of  this  he  had  mounted 
a small  cannon,  and,  stretching  his  long  length 
in  the  bottom,  together  with  an  English  sailor 
who  steered  and  paddled  in  the  stern,  he  would 
drop  doAvn  behind  a flock  of  geese  or  ducks, 
and  then,  when  near  enough,  let  fly  at  them, 
often  killing  forty  or  fifty  at  a shot.  This  was 
not  sport,  but  carnage,  and  after  his  return  to 
England  I saw  it  duly  reported  in  the  papers 
Iioav  many  thousands  of  ducks,  geese,  pelicans, 
cranes,  etc.,  he  had  killed.  I had  the  pleasure 
of  dining  Avith  him  one  evening,  and  found  him 
brimful  and  overfloAving  Avith  the  one  subject. 
He  seemed,  for  the  time,  at  least,  a man  of  but 
one  idea,  and  some  wag  gave  him  the  euphonious 
title  of  Lord  Goosey-Gander. 

12 th.  Received  a large  package  of  letters 
from  America  over  which  we  spent  a delightful 
forenoon.  Reports  of  secession  and  impending 
war  were  becoming  louder  and  stronger,  and 
had  we  not  been  too  busy  to ' think  much  of  it, 
it  Avould  have  been  a sore  trial  to  be  so  far  out 
of  the  tegular  channels  of  the  news  of  the  day. 

To-day  an  American  party  left,  Avho  gave  me 
some  countenance  in  my  want  of  enthusiasm 
about  antiquities.  They  spent  only  a day  and 


INCIDENTS. 


213 


a half  at  Thebes,  and  voted  the  Nile  and  her 
dahabiyes,  Egypt  and  her  ruins,  a bore.  I find 
that  our  American  friends  generally,  though  most 
of  them  will  not  suffer  themselves  to  give  ex- 
pression to  the  sentiment,  think  the  Nile  boat 
too  slow  a coach  for  their  go-a-headitiveness. 
If  they  could  go  up  in  steamers,  and  thus  do  the 
Nile  in  a fortnight,  they  would  enjoy  it.  But 
where,  then,  would  be  the  romance  ? 

To-day  an  Arab,  who  said  he  was  agent  for 
some  Pasha  from  Tripoli,  told  a funny  story. 
This  Pasha  having  gorged  himself  from  the  body 
politic,  as  the  Pashas,  like  leeches,  usually  do, 
instead  of  going  to  Constantinople  that  salt  might 
be  thrown  upon  his  tail,  and  then  suffer  him- 
self to  be  stripped  of  his  ill-gotten  gain,  as  is 
the  custom,  slipped  off  to  America,  and  there 
invested  his  money,  and  some  time  after  sent  his 
agent  there  to  collect  it.  He,  on  arriving,  found 
‘that  he  could  not  collect  the  money  without  the 
bond  or  a power  of  attorney,  and  so  he  came 
back,  biting  his  fingers.  This  man  offered  Mus- 
tapha  half  the  interest  to  intercede  for  him  in 
the  matter,  and  Mustapha  wished  me  to  put  him 
in  track  of  doing  it ; but  what  business  has  a 
Muslem  to  loan  money  on  interest  when  it  is 
contrary  to  their  religion,  and  sending  his  men 
there  without  anything  to  show  for  the  money  ? 
Truly,  this  is  putting  new  wine  in  old  bottles. 

14 th.  Sabbath.  Preached  this  morning  on  Luke 


214 


Egypt’s  princes. 


ii.  1-14.  This  proved  to  be  my  last  sermon  in 
the  bishop’s  church.  As  we  had  not  had  service 
last  Sabbath,  at  the  close  I reminded  the  people 
of  the  afternoon  service,  and  in  the  afternoon 
went  there  and  found  the  church  closed,  and 
that  the  bishop  and  priest  had  left  notice  that 
there  would  be  no  service,  and  then  had  gone 
out  “to  smell  the  air.”  Still  a number  of  the 
people  had  collected  at  the  church  door,  and  I 
told  them  that  I would  meet  them  in  the  evening 
at  Monsur’s.  Whether  the  bishop  had  had  any- 
thing to  do  with  it  or  not  I cannot  say,  but  I 
saw  that  the  meeting  with  the  priests  was  be- 
ginning to  flag  in  interest,  and  determined  no 
longer  to  restrict  it  to  them.  In  the  evening  a 
dozen  came,  and  with  them  Antonius,  I fear 
more  as  a spy  than  a learner.  In  the  room  of 
Monsur’s  host,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  hall, 
was  a company  who,  when  sent  for  to  come  to 
worship,  said  they  did  not  wish  to  come.  Their 
loud  voices  disturbed  us  a good  deal  in  our  wor- 
ship, and  on  coming  out  I noticed  in  passing  the 
window,  that  priest  John  was  among  them,  and 
that  they  were  playing  dice  with  the  arrack- 
glasses  in  their  midst ! O tempora ! O mores  ! 
Such,  then,  were  the  results  of  my  lectures  on 
Timothy  to  the  priests,  in  which  they  had  often 
expressed  themselves  so  deeply  interested.  I 
was  confirmed  in  my  determination  to  limit  our 
evening  meetings  no  longer  to  the  priests. 


PREACHING. 


215 


15/A.  Met  with  a number  of  persons  in  the 
street,  to  whom  I preached  the  Word,  especially 
to  a company  gathered  in  front  of  Mo'nsur’s 
house.  I found  the  developments  of  yesterday 
had  put  the  people  all  on  the  tiptoe  of  excite- 
ment and  expectation  as  to  what  would  come 
next,  and  not  at  all  disposed  to  justify  their 
bishop  in  his  course.  In  the  evening  about 
twenty  persons  were  present,  and  I lectured  to 
them  on  Rom.  ii.  How  applicable  is  the  truth 
of  this  chapter  now  to  a dead  Christian,  as  it 
was  when  penned  to  the  dead  Jewish,  Church. 
When  I came  to  the  end,  I paraphrased  by  sub- 
stituting the  words  Christian  and  baptism  in 
the  place  of  “Jew”  and  “circumcision,”  which 
seemed  to  come  home  to  them  with  peculiar 
power.  For  he  is  not  a Christian  who  is  one 
outwardly,  neither  is  that  baptism  which  is  out- 
ward in  the  flesh ; but  he  is  a Christian  who  is 
one  inwardly,  and  baptism  is  that  of  the  heart,  in 
the  spirit,  and  not  in  the  letter,  whose  praise  is  not 
of  men  but  of  God.  In  the  midst  of  the  discussion 
I noticed  one  man  who  was  leaning  back  behind 
his  neighbor,  and  I thought  lie  must  be  sleepy, 
for  I had  been  very  long,  though  usually  one  can 
hardly  be  too  long  with  the  Copts;  but  soon  his 
neighbor  changed  his  position  a little,  so  that  the 
light  fell  upon  his  face,  and  I saw  the  tears  were 
running  down  his  cheeks.  It  was  to  me,  in  the 
midst  of  all  the  discouragements  and  trials 


216 


Egypt’s  princes. 


which  the  tortuous  ways  of  the  bishop  had  in- 
flicted upon  me,  a token  for  good.  I had  long 
been  beating  the  flinty  rock,  and  could  it  be  true 
that  at  length  the  waters  were  beginning  to  flow 
out  ? Gibbon  well  compares  the  Coptic  Church 
to  a dried  and  ghastly  mummy.  Could  it  be 
that  these  dried  bones  and  leathern  muscles  and 
sinews,  withered  and  parched  for  ages,  were  yet 
to  live?  O Lord,  Thou  knowest ! 

16^.  Found  the  bishop  cold  and  stiff.  Fadil 
Pasha  was  bearing  hard  on  some  of  his  relations, 
and  it  was  evident  that  in  this  as  in  his  other 
troubles,  he  was  giving  up  all  hope  of  compassing 
his  ends  through  me.  His  demeanor  seemed  to 
show  that  he  had  definitely  made  up  his  mind  to 
a new  course  of  action,  viz.,  secret  war,  to  be 
covered  by  a polite  exterior  in  his  intercourse 
with  me.  There  was  one  respect  which  I have 
not  yet  mentioned,  in  which  his  acquaintance 
with  me  had  not  met  his  sanguine  expectations. 
He  had  evidently  hoped  that  he  would  be  able 
to  use  me  as  an  efficient  mediator  and  dragoman 
with  the  travelers,  and  that  he  would  be  able  to 
thrust  my  hand  deeply  into  their  pockets.  I 
may  here  state  that  the  seat  of  his  bishopric  is 
properly  at  Esneh  and  not  Luxor,  and  that  he 
had  long  since  removed  to  the  latter  place, 
though  it  contained  comparatively  few  Copts, 
principally  on  account  of  the  travelers.  These 
spend  only  a day  at  Esneh,  but  usually  a couple 


THE  BISHOP. 


217 


weeks  at  Luxor,  and  he  had  received  from  them, 
especially  while  building  his  church,  large  con- 
tributions. Many  who  could  see  only  the  sur- 
face, and  especially  Church  of  England  men, 
who  had  had  their  training  in  the  High-Church 
School,  and  of  course  regarded  him  as  a high 
dignitary  in  a church  which  is  an  elder  sister  in 
the  Episcopacy,  were  disposed  to  fraternize  and 
be  liberal  with  “the  good  old  bishop.”  But  here 
he  was  in  great  need  of  an  interpreter.  Antonius 
knew  but  few  words  of  English,  and  the  drago- 
men of  the  travelers  are  mostly  Muslems,  who 
could  not  be  expected  to  sympathize  in  such 
a matter,  and  all  of  them  in  principle  bound 
to  protect  their  howajah  from  all  depredations 
except  their  own.  But  here  it  was  that  I sig- 
nally failed  him.  Had  he  gone  on  in  building 
the  school -house,  I could  easily  have  raised 
money  enough  for  him  to  build  ten  schools ; but 
this  failing,  I could  not  consent  to  suffer  myself 
to  be  carried  around  by  him  like  a borrowed 
baby  in  the  arms  of  a street  beggar.  When 
travelers  with  High-Church  tendencies,  or  who, 
hearing  as  much  of  our  story  as  I thought  they 
had  any  business  in  knowing,  expressed  a desire 
to  make  his  acquaintance,  I called  with  him  on 
them,  and  then  went  with  them  to  return  the 
call ; but  I could  not  go  further  than  this,  and 
consequently,  like  most  dragomen,  I sometimes 
had  to  translate  what  he  wished  to  say  to  them 
19 


218 


EGYPT’S  PRINCES. 


not  literally,  but  according  to  the  sense — that  is 
ray  sense  of  what  was  proper  to  be  said.  In 
these  interviews  I am  often  greatly  amused  by 
the  arts  of  mendicancy  with  which  he  plies  them. 
First,  when  he  calls  upon  them,  the  watch  is 
pulled  out  and  flourished  every  five  minutes,  and 
as  it  can  speak,  it  easily  introduces  its  story  and 
ticks  most  eloquently  in  praise  of  its  generous 
donor.  Then,  when  the  call  is  returned,  the  two 
telescopes  are  brought  out,  and  first  the  long 
one  is  put  to  the  eye  of  the  poor  short-sighted 
dupe,  and  it  enables  him  to  see  far  away  over 
the  propylon  of  Karnak,  and  over  long  reaches 
of  river  and  plain,  a stranger  coming  bearing 
like  gifts,  and  then  the  short  one  is  brought  into 
requisition,  which  brings  him  still  nearer  and 
within  gun-shot  range,  when  the  double-barreled 
fowling  piece  of  Salame  the  servant,  (also  a 
present  to  him,)  is  brought  out,  which  easily 
brings  him  down,  and  he  is  bagged,  lawful  game. 
But  this  year  the  game  seemed  to  fly  too  high, 
and  for  some  inexplicable  reason,  episcopal 
cloaks,  silver  communion  vessels,  and  other  like 
presents  were  not  forthcoming  as  freely  as  was 
expected,  and  after  a Avdiile  the  conclusion  was 
come  to  that  I was  not  a missionary  of  the  good 
old  stamp  who  used  to  send  boat-loads  of  books  to 
be  distributed,  (gratuitously,  of  course,)  among 
the  people ; and  one  Sabbath  I heard  that  our 
English  service  in  the  dahabiyeh  had  been  a very 


A FEAST. 


219 


barren  one,  as  to  practical  results,  because  it 
bad  brought  after  it  no  “surrah”  (parcel),  the 
proceeds  of  a collection  for  his  reverence. 

In  this  connection  I cannot  help  telling  of  a most 
recherche  dinner  which  I one  evening  had  with 

his  reverence.  A certain  Mr. attended 

morning  service  in  the  Church  one  Sabbath.  He 
was  an  Englishman,  and  evidently  of  the  High- 
Church  school — at  least  so  I gathered  from  the 
fact  that  his  mind  seemed  much  more  full  of 
reverence  for  this  old  apostolical  Coptic  Church, 
with  its  regular  succession  of  bishops,  priests, 
sacraments,  etc.,  than  with  joy  at  the  novel  and 
hopeful  fact  of  a Protestant  missionary  preach- 
ing in  a Coptic  church.  Indeed,  it  almost 
seemed  to  me  that  he  regarded  my  part  of  the 
performance  in  the  light  of  an  intrusion  into  the 
regular  and  settled  order  of  things.  However 
that  may  be,  he  kindly  invited  the  bishop  and 
his  pro-tempore  curate  to  dine  with  him  the 
next  evening,  which  invitation  we  were  very 
happy  to  accept.  When  the  occasion  came,  the 
curate,  of  course,  had  to  act  as  dragoman,  and 
many  were  the  kind  and  pretty  sayings  which 

Mr.  and  Mrs. had  to  trouble  him  with 

translating  for  “his  reverence,”  and  “his  lord- 
ship  the  bishop.”  Unfortunately  his  lordship 
was  fasting,  and  so  he  could  touch  scarcely  any 
• of  the  rich  viands  which  had  been  prepared.  As 
• soon  as  the  soup  came  on,  his  first  question 


220 


Egypt’s  princes. 


was  whether  it  contained  any  “ zefr,”  (grease,) 

and  Mrs. said  she  thought  it  was  purely 

a vegetable  soup.  So  I told  him  that  he  might 
eat,  and,  as  he  seemed  yet  to  be  doubtful,  I as- 
sured him  that  there  was  not  the  least  particle 
of  grease  in  it,  and  that  I would  be  responsible 
if  in  partaking  of  it  he  broke  fast.  We  all  then 

went  at  our  soup,  but  soon  Mrs. and  I 

both  found  a small  cube  of  meat  in  our  plates. 
We  exchanged  significant  glances,  but  said 
nothing,  and  as  it  happened  there  was  none  in 
his  plate, he  ate  the  soup,  grease  and  all,  without 
greasing  or  otherwise  defiling  his  conscience.  I 
suppose  I must  hold  myself  answerable  for  that 
sin,  if  sin  it  be.  Then  came  on  the  more  solid 
food,  course  after  course  — turkeys,  chickens, 
meat,  in  rich  and  savory  succession  ; but  he  could 
touch  none  of  them.  He  could  only  eat  dry 
bread  and  some  vegetables  which  we  assured 
him  must  be  clean,  though  even  they  had  the 
smell  of  the  prohibited  zefr  on  them.  I fear 
they  had  been  in  the  pot  with  the  meat,  that 
they  were  so  savory.  But  in  the  drinkables  the 
bisho])  indemnified  himself.  In  them  there  w’as 
no  zefr,  and  so  he  had  no  scruples  in  freely  par- 
taking, and  by  the  time  he  had  taken  two  tum- 
blers of  ale,  and  half  a dozen  (I  cannot  be  posi- 
tive as  to  the  exact  number,  but  think  this  within 
the  mark)  glasses  of  sherry  and  another  kiud 
of  wine  of  which  I have  forgotten  the  name,  he 


A HAPPY  BISHOP. 


221 


was  gloriously  eloquent.  He  sat  cross-legged 
on  the  settee  of  the  dahabiyeh,  and  I sat  oppo- 
site him,  and  so  all  his  eloquence  poured  itself 
upon  me.  I can  now  see  him,  his  voice  raised 
high,  and  his  arms  flourishing.  “Khowajah 
L , you  are  the  light  of  our  country.  Be- 

fore you  came  we  were  in  darkness  ; but  the  sun 
has  arisen  upon  us.  You  are  the  St.  Paul  of  our 
land;  you  have  brought  us  the  true  gospel.  You 
are  St.  John,  the  beloved  disciple.  You  are — 
you  are — ” I never  before  received,  and  think 
I never  again  shall,  such  high  eulogy.  Then  came 
the  dessert  with  the  spiced  cordial  in  small  but 
mighty  glasses,  and  now  our  friend  was  at  home. 
The  little  glasses,  (and  the  cordial  was  even  an 
improvement  on  arrack,)  the  nuts,  and  the  empty 
stomach,  all  were  exact  in  accordance  with  the 
most  approved  style  of  Arab  drinking.  But  I soon 

thought  it  necessary  to  tread  on  Mr. ’s 

toe,  and  thus  give  him  a hint  to  hold  his  hand. 
I have  told  as  much  of  this  story  as  is  funny,  and 
will  also  hold  my  hand. 

llth  I had  had  a great  deal  of  hard  work  and 
anxiety  lately,  and  felt  that  a little  recreation 
would  not  be  amiss,  and  so  arranged  to  go  with 
a Mr.  R.  to  the  eastern  mountains  for  a hunt  for 
hyenas  and  wolves  which  the  people  said  often 
came  down  to  the  plain.  I also  wished  to  at- 
tend that  night  the  “ feast  of  the  baptism”  at  the 
old  convent  of  St.  Pachomius  in  the  border  of 


222 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


the  desert.  Monsur  and  he  and  I started  in  the 
afternoon,  taking  our  beds  and  provisions  with 
us.  After  three  hours’  ride  on  our  donkeys  we 
came  to  the  hills,  where  we  soon  started  a couple 
of  wolves,  but  as  we  did  not  know  their  lairs, 
and  they  could  see  us  and  flee  before  we  could 
get  within  bullet  range  of  them,  we  soon  gave 
them  up  and  returned  to  the  convent.  It  was 
now  sunset,  and  the  people  were  collecting  from 
the  neighboring  villages  to  the  convent,  which 
except  on  feast  occasions  is  deserted.  We  took 
our  lunch  outside  under  a tree  and  then  went  in, 
where  the  priests  kindly  received  us,  and  we 
spread  our  beds  beside  the  central  altar  and  sat 
down  upon  them.  Soon  the  jieople  began  to  say 
that  it  was  time  to  commence  services,  when  one 
of  the  priests  arose  and  immediately  commenced 
at  the  top  of  his  voice  to  repeat  the  Coptic 
prayers,  introductory  to  the  mass.  One  of  those 
present  cried  out  to  him,  “ Turn  your  face  to 
the  Lady,”  when  he  squared  himself  before  the 
altar  of  the  virgin,  the  central  one  in  the  church. 
He  was  soon  joined  in  the  responses  by  the  loud 
voices  of  two  bellowing  deacons — a fitting  bass 
for  the  high  tenor  of  the  clanging  cimbals,  which 
they  vehemently  beat  together,  and  the  work  of 
the  night  was  fairly  under  way.  At  such  a 
debut,  my  young  friend,  who  had  been  brought 
up  a Quaker,’  opened  wide  his  eyes,  and  I rallied 
him  by  saying  that  in  Quaker  and  Copt  the  ex- 


A COPTIC  SERVICE. 


223 


tremes  had  met.  That  night  they  went  through 
with  three  long  masses,  besides  the  services 
special  to  the  occasion  which  I shall  presently 
describe.  The  principal  of  these  were  the  bless- 
ing of  the  water,  and  the  baptism  (if  baptism  it 
may  be  called)  of  all  present.  The  church  is  a 
new  one,  built  on  the  site  of  the  old  convent,  and 
the  baptistery  or  font  in  which  it  is  customary  at 
this  feast  to  immerse  all  the  males,  not  being  yet 
built,  they  instead  took  two  jars  of  water  hold- 
ing three  or  four  gallons  each,  and  after  praying 
over  them  about  an  hour,  the  officiating  priest 
occasionally  stirring  the  water  with  a stick,  as  if 
stirring  in  the  holiness  which  his  prayers  impart- 
ed (so  we  used  to  stir  the  corn  meal  into  the 
boiling  water  to  make  hasty  pudding),  he  then 
applied  it  to  the  persons  of  all  the  males  present. 
This  was  done  by  dipping  a small  cloth  into  the 
water,  and  then  applying  it  to  the  insteps,  wrists, 
and  foreheads  of  the  congregation  who  one  by 
one  came  forward  for  the  purpose. 

This  to  us  was  novel ; but  the  baptism  of  two 
children,  to  which  they  next  proceeded  in  an- 
other part  of  the  church,  was  pitiful.  It  was 
performed  in  the  women’s  department  of  the 
church,  for  the  fathers  did  not  appear  in  the 
service,  the  women  presenting  the  children,  and 
these  of  course  could  not  enter  the  holy  of  holies, 
nor  even  the  men’s  department,  without  defiling 
it  (although  the  people  generally  were  sitting 


224 


Egypt’s  princes. 


there  beside  and  around  the  altar,  smoking  and 
talking  as  if  in  a khan.)  I have  never  before  or 
since  witnessed  the  rite  administered  as  it  then 
was.  It  was  reduplicated.  The  first  time  it 
was  mostly  in  Arabic.  That  part  of  it  was  very 
impressive  and  affecting  in  which  the  mother, 
taking  the  child  and  facing  the  west,  renounced, 
in  the  name  of  the  child,  the  devil  and  his  works 
and  service,  and  then  turning  to  the  east  em- 
braced the  Saviour  and  his  righteousness  and 
service.  Three  times  the  priest  asked  her,  “ Do 
you  embrace  Christ  for  this  child  ?”  and  three 
times  she  emphatically  answered,  “I  do.”  (There 
are  traces  of  this  ceremony  in  the  English  bap- 
tismal service.)  The  priest  then  sprinkled  water 
on  the  child,  and  I thought  the  ceremony  was 
completed.  But  the  two  children  were  then 
taken  to  another  part  of  the  church,  where  was 
a font  large  enough  for  their  immersion,  and 
another  priest  completed  the  ceremony  this  time 
all  in  Coptic.  The  children  were  stripped  naked, 
and  with  long  repetitions  of  prayers  they  were 
three  times  immersed  in  the  font,  and  then  the 
priest  commenced  the  process  of  anointing  them 
with  holy  oil,  which  he  did  by  dipping  his  thumb 
into  the  oil,  and  then  commencing  at  the  wrist 
of  the  child,  tracing  it  along  all  its  members  and 
joints.  The  church  was  so  cold  that  we  needed 
our  heavy  shawls  around  us  to  keep  warm,  and 
the  priest  was  an  old  trembling  man,  and  very 


A COPTIC  BAPTISM. 


225 


awkward  in  his  manipulations,  and  as  the  poor 
things  lay  there  on  a garment  on  the  ground, 
blue  and  screaming,  until  utterly  exhausted  they 
could  cry  no  longer,  I became  so  indignant  that 
I could  hardly  restrain  myself  from  interfering. 
I could  no  longer  wonder  that  (as  the  Copts  say 
is  the  case)  the  children  are  often  killed  by  the 
process.  This  done,  the  priest  proceeded  in  the 
same  clumsy  manner  to  dress  the  children  in 
their  new  white  clothes,  when  he  handed  them 
to  the  mothers,  who  seemed  to  take  them  with 
a feeling  like  that  of  Zipporah,  when  she  said, 
“ surely  a bloody  husband  art  thou  to  me  because 
of  the  circumcision.” 

At  length,  about  4 o’clock  in  the  morning,  I 
grew  sleepy  and  very  weary  of  the  everlasting 
shouting  and  the  din  of  cimbals.  People  who 
are  not  in  the  secret  may  wonder  how  they  find 
materials  for  such  long  and  almost  endless 
prayers,  but  the  wonder  will  cease  when  they 
learn  that  one  word  will  sometimes  last  an  hour. 
For  instance,  hallelujah,  which  is  a favorite  word 
with  them,  they  commence  hah,  hah,  hah,  for 
the  first  quarter  hour,  and  then  le,  le,  le,  for  the 
next,  and  so  on  to  the  end  of  the  word,  and  then 
the  chorus  joins  in  with  a magnificent  hallelujah , 
repeated  several  times. 

As  I lay  down  to  sleep  it  was  with  feelings 
sad  and  gloomy  enough  at  this  sad  exhibition  of 
the  perversion  of  our  holy  religion,  and  this  feel- 


226 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


ing  was  deepened  by  the  gloom  of  the  church 
around,  whose  broad*  aisles,  now  covered  with 
sleeping  figures,  Avere  very  partially  lighted  by 
only  one  tiny  flickering  lamp,  and  that  senseless 
shout  now  hoarse  and  grating  Avas  still  going  up. 
But  as 'I  raised  my  eyes  I beheld  through  a small 
hole  in  the  arched  roof  a bright  star  quietly 
tAvinkling  in  the  zenith  and  casting  its  ray  of 
light  into  that  gloom.  It  was  to  me  a star  of 
hope  sending  even  there  its  ray  of  promise,  and 
I fell  asleep  praying  that  the  Sun  of  Righteous- 
ness might  soon  appear  to  dispel  all  that  thick 
darkness. 

When  the  sound  of  prayer  ceased,  I and  the 
others  awoke,  and  it  was  soon  broad  daylight. 
The  priests  then  brought  food  and  Ave  all  ate, 
when  I told  them  that  it  was  hoav  my  turn  to 
officiate.  Monsur  had  read  for  them  the  Arabic 
passages  of  the  Scriptures  which  came  up  in  the 
course  of  the  services  through  the  night,  at  which 
they  were  greatly  pleased,  as  he  read  them  much 
better  than  the  deacons  could,  and  so  noAV  I told 
>them  that  they  had  all  had  their  turns  and  I must 
have  mine.  So  after  washing  and  taking  a cup 
of  coffee,  as  they  usually  do  after  eating,  they  all 
sat  down  again  on  the  floor,  and  I took  out  my 
Testament  and  read  the  first  part  of  the  third 
chapter  of  John,  and  gave  them  a sermon  on  the 
baptism  of  the  spirit,  and  the  new  birth.  We 
then  parted  and  Avent  each  one  to  his  b*mm. 


THE  BISHOP. 


227 


1 8 th.  Found  on  reaching  Luxor  that  the  bishop 
] sad  been  talking  with  Mustapha  about  the 
school,  and  I thought  that  when  he  came  to  his 
greatest  enemy  to  consult  on  the  subject,  it  was 
high  time  to  remove  It  from  the  church.  He 
had  also  told  Monsur  just  before  starting,  the 
day  before,  that  ever  since  the  school  had  been 
in  the  church  the  curse  had  been  upon  him,  and 
he  had  been  in  trouble.  I asked  Mustapha  if  he 
could  direct  us  to  a room  that  we  could  rent,  and 
he  immediately  said  that  he  had  one  in  the  other 
end  of  the  village  to  which  we  were  welcome. 
He  rejoiced  in  the  opportunity  of  thus  strength- 
ening the  bonds  by  which  we  were  bound,  and 
secretly  vexing  his  great  enemy  ; and  so,  going  to 
see  the  room,  and  finding  it  would  answer,  I 
gave  orders  to  have  it  whitewashed  and  prepared 
for  the  school.  I felt  that  it  was  useless  having 
any  more  scenes  with  the  bishop,  and  determined 
quietly  to  dissolve  the  partnership.  Still  he  did 
not  know  of  this  purpose  of  removing  the  school, 
and  it  was  left  for  him  to  be  guilty  of  the  first 
act  of  open  breach,  which  he  was  on  the  follow- 
ing Sabbath. 

1 9lh.  Called  on  him  for  the  text  for  the  mor- 
row, and  he  referred  me  to  the  areef  to  give  it 
to  me.  We  were  both  about  equally  cool,  and 
our  interview  was  a short  one. 

2 Oth.  Sabbath.  Went  to  the  church  and  took 
mv  place  beside  him  in  my  usual  seat.  He  feign- 


228 


Egypt’s  princes. 


ed  not  to  see  me,  and  was  deeply  in  earnest  in 
the  business  in  hand.  He  made  the  responses 
with  great  fervor,  and  as  an  extra,  he  treated 
the  people  to  a homily  from  St.  Chrysostom. 
This  he  had  entered  into  the  programme  by  way 
of  substitute  for  my  sermon.  When  the  sermon 
was  over  he  blessed  and  dismissed  the  people, 
who,  astonished  at  this  procedure,  grumbled  and 
whispered  among  themselves,  when  finally  one 
cried  out  that  those  w7ho  wished  to  hear  me 
preach  should  remain.  To  this  I answered  that 
I would  not  preach  in  any  man’s  church  without 
his  consent, and  immediately  left.  In  this  answer 
I followed  my  first  impulse,  and  it  was  doubtless 
the  course  which  most  men,  at  least  most  Ameri- 
cans, would  have  taken,  but  I afterwards  repent- 
ed it.  It  would  have  been  better  had  I taken  it 
for  granted  that  that  was  the  church  of  Christ 
and  not  of  the  bishop,  and  that  I had  a right  to 
preach  the  Gospel  in  it  if  the  people  wished  it, 
and  then  and  there  to  have  had  a battle  and  a 
division  of  the  house.  At  all  events  I went  home 
with  the  comfort,  that  like  Paul  I could  preach 
* in  my  own  hired  house,  and  that  people  would 
come  to  hear  me  there.  We  had  lately  been 
talking  of  a visit  to  Esneh,  which  is  the  great 
centre  of  the  Copts  of  the  bishopric,  and  this 
evening  Antonius  was  dispatched  there,  which 
was  ominous.  It  seemed  that  the  war  was  to 
be  carried  into  Africa. 


MUSTAPHA. 


229 


21. si.  To-day  the  bishop  made  it  with  Monsur 
an  absolute  condition  of  the  continuance  of  the 
school  in  the  church  that  Tadrus  (who  the  read- 
ers will  recollect  threw  the  paper  charm  into  the 
Nile)  and  the  Muslem  boys  should  not  be  pei'- 
mitted  longer  to  attend*  Mustapha  saw  him, 
and  he  told  him  that  he  was  ready  to  see  me  if 
I would  call  and  make  peace  with  him.  But  I 
felt  that  war  was  now  much  better  than  the  hoi 
low  peace  which  I had  so  often  patched  up  with 
him,  and  so  declined. 

Many  of  the  people  were  forward  in  showing 
their  sympathy  with  me  in  the  quarrel.  One  of 
the  leading  men,  who  indeed  was  the  main  stay 
of  the  church,  showed  his  by  sending  us  a large 
basket  of  bread. 

22 d.  This  day  was  a very  busy  one  in  prepa- 
rations for  a feast  which  Mustapha  proposed 
giving  to  the  travelers  who  were  there.  It  came 
off  in  the  evening,  and  a grand  affair  it  was. 
There  were  nineteen  guests,  of  whom  about  an 
equal  number  were  English  and  Americans. 
The  feast  from  first  to  last  was  “ a la  Arab,”  ex- 
cept the  champagne,  which  in  a Muslem  feast 
was  a Frank  innovation.  First  came  the  soup, 
then  a lamb  stuffed  with  raisins,  nuts  and  rice, 
and  roasted  whole,  then  the  two  turkeys,  chick- 
ens, pigeons,  and  all  the  et  ceteras.  Some  of 
the  guests,  not  knowing  what  they  were  to  ex- 
pect, came  in  white  kids,  but  when  they  came 
20 


230 


Egypt's  princes. 


into  the  dining-room  and  found  that  they  had  to 
sit  on  the  floor  and  eat  with  their  fingers,  they 
at  first  looked  aghast,  but  they  took  off  the  kids 
and  rolled  up  their  sleeves,  and  when  once  they 
got  into  the  spirit  of  the  occasion  they  all  seemed 
to  enjoy  it  very  much.  Mustapha,  our  host, 
stood  by  like  Abraham  with  his  three  guests 
while  we  ate,  and  he  seemed  greatly  to  enjoy 
the  wry  faces  which  we  made  when  we  burned 
our  fingers  in  carving  the  sheep  and  fowls  with 
our  hands,  and  we  in  turn  enjoyed  his  attempts 
at  being  hospitable  and  facetious  in  his  broken 
English.  One  of  the  guests,  a Mr.  Douglass, 
asked  me  about  our  mission  work,  and  on  re- 
turning to  his  boat  sent  up  a kind  note  with  a 
contribution  of  £10.  We  had  before  received  a 
number  of  liberal  donations  from  the  travelers 
in  aid  of  our  work.  I never  asked  any  one  for 
help.  ■ My  position  was  such  at  Mustapha’s,  who 
was  both  English  and  American  consular  agent, 
and  who  often  needed  me  to  help  in  his  post 
office  business,  that  I could  hardly  avoid  becom- 
ing acquainted  with  all  who  came.  They  natu- 
rally asked  about  my  business  there,  when  I 
gave  them  an  account  of  our  work,  and  then 
those  who  chose  to  offer  pecuniary  aid  did  so. 
I must  admit  in  this  connection  that  the  English 
seemed  more  liberal  in  this  matter  than  the 
Americans ; although  the  dragomen  always  pre- 
fer going  with  American  parties,  as  they  say  the 


AMERICANS  AND  ENGLISH. 


Americans  are  more  lavish  with  their  money. 
I think  we  Americans  are  more  sectarian  than 
the  English  are;  at  least  we  seemed  better 
trained  to  do  through  our  own  church  or  board 
what  we  do.  It  is  true  the  English  have  that 
remnant  of  the  popish  dogma  of  infallibility 
which  they  have  concentrated  as  a “ caput1 
mortuum”  in  that  little  emphatic  tiie,  as  the 
church,  the  clergy,  etc.,  but  still  they  seem  to  be 
readier  than  we  are  to  lend  a helping  hand  to  a 
good  work  wherever  they  find  it. 

23 d.  The  bishop  sent  to  have  me  call,  or  to  say 
that  he  would  call  on  me.  I sent  word  back 
that  I would  be  at  leisure  and  in  my  room  after 
an  hour,  and  happy  to  see  him,  but,  as  I expected, 
he  did  not  come. 

24 th.  The  new  school-room  being  now  ready 
we  to-day  moved  the  school  there.  I went  down 
to  see  things  properly  arranged  and  settled,  and 
had  hardly  got  there  when  his  reverence  came 
puffing  up  the  stairs.  Mustapha  was  with  me, 
and  we  took  him  into  a little  side  room,  when  he 
asked  why  we  had  been  in  such  a hurry  to  leave 
the  church.  I told  him  it  was  to  get  out  of  his  wayj 
and  to  remove  the  curse  from  his  house.  I need 
not  attempt  to  describe  the  long  conversation 
which  followed.  At  the  end  of  it  he  begged  my 
pardon  for  what  had  happened,  and  promised  to 
walk  straight  in  the  future  ; but  he  besought  me 
no  longer  to  preach  against  the  dogmas  of  the 


232 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


church.  I told  him  I could  not  consent  to  teach 
anything  except  what  I found  in  the  Bible,  and 
that  if  in  the  Bible  there  was  anything  opposed 
to  the  doctrines  of  the  church  I could  not  help 
it.  He  seemed  now  when  it  was  too  late,  heart- 
ily sorry  that  he  had  teazed  us  until  he  forced  us 
to  remove  the  school  from  the  church.  Espe- 
cially when  I told  him  that  this  would  look 
pretty  in  the  eyes  of  his  English  friends  to  see  a 
Christian  school  removed  from  the  church  to  a 
Muslem  house.  I told  him,  however,  what  I 
had  before  told  the  people,  that  had  we  only 
continued  to  pay  Antonins  $4  per  month,  he 
would  for  that  sum  have  sold  the  whole  Chris- 
tian community  of  the  place  into  our  hands  as 
Protestants — that  it  was  very  cheap,  as  it  only 
amounted  to  about  two  and  a half  cents  per  head 
for  each  month,  but  that  even  at  that  low  rate 
it  was  against  our  principles  to  buy  souls. 

25 th  to  Feb.  3d.  Nothing  of  note  occurred  dur- 
ing this  week.  The  school  was  flourishing  in  its 
new  quarters.  A few  of  the  Christian  boys  had 
left,  and  a few  Moslems  came  and  took  their 
places.  The  latter,  however,  did  not  make  good 
their  promise  to  send  all  their  children  in  case 
we  would  remove  the  school  from  the  church. 
This  matter  is  after  all  in  a great  measure  in  the 
hands  of  the  schoolmasters,  both  Christian  and 
Muslem.  The  parents  generally  exercise  but 
little  authority  over  the  children.  They  go  to 


THE  CHILDREN. 


233 


school  when  they  choose,  and  their  old  teachers 
usually  have  them  under  their  control.  Had  we 
taken  the  Muslem  areef  into  our  employment  we 
would  have  secured  all  the  Muslem  children.  But 
this  would  have  involved  the  dismissal  of  the 
Christian  one,  as  we  had  not  work  enough  for 
them  both,  together  with  Monsur — and  with  him 
would  have  gone  the  Christian  boys.  As  it  was, 
the  bishop  was  doing  all  he  could  to  get  him 
away,  but  he  clung  to  his  seventy  piastres  and 
would  not  leave  us. 

Still,  independently  of  the  bishop’s  influence, 
the  number  of  pupils  in  the  school  had  fallen  off 
from  forty  to  twenty.  This  was  caused  by  the  fact 
that  it  was  now  the  height  of  the  season  for  the 
travelers.  Many  of  the  children  had  to  run  after 
the  donkeys,  in  taking  the  visitors  around  to  see 
the  ruins,  and  others  had  to  go  day  by  day  down 
to  the  dahabiyelis  to  offer  for  sale  the  scarabau 
and  little  antiquities  which  they  and  their  friends 
had  collected  during  the  summer.  The  Viceroy 
claims  for  himself  all  the  antiquities  which  are 
found,  and  he  constantly  keeps  a large  number 
of  forced  laborers  taken  from  the  neighboring 
villages  at  work  digging  for  them  among  the 
tombs  on  the  other  side  of  the  river.  These  of 
course  have  many  opportunities  of  hiding  in 
their  clothes  small  articles  that  they  find,  and 
then  in  winter  they  stealthily  offer  them  for  sale. 
Besides  this  there  is  a large  business  carried  on 
20* 


234 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


in  manufacturing  scarabsei  with  their  penknives, 
like  our  friend  Antonius,  which  in  winter  are 
gobbled  up  at  enormous  prices  by  the  flock  of 
geese  which  every  winter  comes  from  the  North. 
For  the  travelers  who  choose  to  give  prices  va- 
rying from  $1  to  $250  for  a bit  of  stone  carved 
into  the  shape  of  a beetle,  it  matters  little 
whether  the  carving  was  done  'last  summer  or 
four  thousand  years  ago,  provided  they  do  not 
know  the  difference.  But  for  the  boys,  and  in- 
deed the  whole  population  of  Luxor,  this  is  a 
ruinous  business.  All  Luxor,  from  Mustapha  and 
the  bishop  down  to  the  smallest  urchin  that  can 
hang  on  to  the  tail  of  a donkey,  depends  for  the 
most  part  on  the  travelers  for  a livelihood,  and 
whether  they  be  donkey-boys  who  learn  to  mouth 
great  English  oaths,  and  charge  Englishmen  two 
prices  for  the  use  of  their  animals,  or  guides-  who 
take  them  to  see  sights  which  they  can  as  well 
see  alone,  and  filch  from  the  boys  part  of  their 
earnings,  or  antiquity-mongers  who  palm  on 
them  false  antiquities,  or  charge  ten  prices  for 
true  ones,  the  whole  business  is  most  demoral- 
izing. It  gives  a distaste  for  all  regular  and 
settled  work,  and  eats  out  all  habits  of  thrift  and 
industry.  The  children  cannot  compose  their 
minds  and  settle  down  to  hard  study  ; and  as  for 
the  men,  all  Luxor  is  not  able  to  support  a gar- 
den patch  to  furnish  sojourners  with  garden 
vegetables,  and  we  have  all  winter  been  forced 


PAM  STEPIIANUS. 


235 

to  bring  a precarious  supply  from  other  villages 
and  from  Cairo.  In  winter  it  is  all  excitement 
and  eager  scrambling  for  the  bright  coins  which 
are  so  profusely  scattered  by  the  inexperienced 
travelers ; and  in  summer  I suspect  they  spend 
most  of  their  time  in  counting  over  their  gains, 
and  in  desultory  searchings  among  the  tombs, 
and  endless  bargaining  among  themselves  for  a 
stock  in  trade  for  the  next  season.  I constantly 
notice  that  the  Luxorites  are  fiir  behind  their 
neighbors  of  other  villages  in  thrift  and  indus- 
try, and  begin  to  suspect  that  we  have  made  a 
mistake  in  making  this  one  of  our  first  stations 
in  Upper  Egypt. 

This  week  Lord  Aberdeen  made  an  excursion 
to  Negadch  and  Ghous,  where  he  sold  books  for 
800  piastres.  Father  Makhiel,  when  they  re- 
turned, was  in  ecstacies  about  a man  named 
Fam  Stephanus  whom  they  had  found  in  Ghous. 
He  said  he  had  spent  a day  and  a night  with 
him  in  most  interesting  spiritual  converse — that 
he  had  got  far  beyond  the  A B C of  contro- 
versy about  images,  confession,  etc.,  and  that 
they  spent  the  time  in  discussing  the  high  mys- 
teries of  religion,  and  in  investigating  and  ex- 
plaining difficult  passages  of  Scripture.  I after- 
wards became  acquainted  with  this  man,  and 
found  that  in  intelligent  piety  he  justified  Mak- 
hiel’s  high  encomiums. 


236 


Egypt’s  princes. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

4 th.  Left  with  Lord  Aberdeen  for  our  long- 
talked  of  excursion  to  Esneh.  We  had  hut  just 
spread  our  sails  when  far  in  the  north  we  saw  a 
couple  dahabiyehs  with  American  flags  coming. 
We  had  already  received  word  by  mail  from 
Cairo  that  the  brethren  there  had  sent  us  with 
an  American  party  a few  boxes  of  books,  and  so 
we  turned  back  and  were  not  disappointed  in 
finding  them.  All  winter  our  trouble  was  to 
get  sufficient  books  to  meet  the  demand  which 
we  everywhere  found,  and  our  stock  had  now 
become  low,  so  now  we  started  again  feeling 
rich.  Just  above  Luxor  the  river  is  very  tortu- 
ous in  its  course  for  several  miles,  and  this,  to- 
gether with  the  hindrance  to  the  north  winds  of 
the  high  western  hills  opposite  Luxor,  almost 
always  leaves  a vessel  becalmed  for  several  hours, 
when  the  men  must  track.  After  thus  toiling 
along  for  some  distance  we  found  ourselves  at 
3 p.  m.  opposite  a small  village  called  Maris. 
Going  up  on  the  bank  we  found  a goatherd  who 


JOURNEYING . 


237 


told  us  that  there  were  a few  Christians  in  the 
village,  which  was  about  four  miles  distant ; so, 
taking  Father  Makhiel,  we  filled  our  hags  with 
books  and  started  off  for  it.  When  we  reached 
the  village  we  sought  out  the  house  of  the  shaikh, 
as  they  said  they  had  neither  church  nor  priest, 
and  threw  on  him  the  responsibility  of  calling 
together  the  Christians,  who  soon  came  and 
bought  a number  of  books.  Then  after  giving 
them  a word  of  exhortation  to  read  the  books 
with  diligence,  and  thus  make  up  for  their  lack 
of  spiritual  privileges,  we  proceeded  to  Erment, 
where  we  also  sold  well. 

5 th.  This  morning  the  big  dahabiyeh  came, 
and,  after  purchasing  some  necessaries  and  sell- 
ing some  books,  we  again  set  sail,  and  with  a 
fine  wind  we  reached  Esneh  at  3 p.  m.  I went 
up  to  the  town  and  called  on  the  Kummus  Ibra- 
him, and  our  old  friend  Khaleel,  who  returned 
with  me  to  the  boat  to  pay  their  respects  to  his 
lordship. 

This  finished,  we  took  a hasty  glance  at  the 
temple  which  antiquarians  say  is  a very  ancient 
one,  but  it  has  now  been  mostly  torn  down  to 
furnish  building  stones  for  the  neifrhborinn;  fac- 
tory.  It  was  now  sunset,  and  the  dahabiyeh 
was  far  ahead  of  us,  so  we  got  a couple  of  boys 
with  donkeys  who  agreed  to  take  us  to  the  fac- 
tory, we  promising  them  in  turn  each  a copy  of 
the  Psalms  on  our  arrival.  We  reached  there 


238 


Egypt’s  princes. 


at  8 o’clock,  almost  frozen  with  our  chilly  ride, 
after  our  warm  walk  with  our  heavy  back-load 
of  books,  and  our  warmer  discussion  in  the  close 
room  of  the  shaikh.  We  were  also  ravenously 
hungry,  as  a light  lunch  furnished  by  the  hospi- 
tality of  the  shaikh  was  all  the  dinner  we  had 
had,  and  the  dahabiyeh  was  not  yet  there,  and 
would  not  likely  come  before  morning,  so  we 
had  to  cast  about  us  for  food  and  lodging.  I 
spied  on  the  shore  the  boat  of  Mr.  Harris,  one 
of  our  English  merchants  from  Alexandria,  with 
whom  I presumed  I could  get  a night’s  lodging ; 
but  first  we  went  into  the  sugar  factory,  which, 
as  it  was  now  the  crushing  season,  was  in  full 
operation  night  and  day,  in  the  hot  fumes  of 
which  our  chills  soon  left  us,  and  we  allayed 
the  sharp  cravings  of  hunger  by  a delightful 
draught  of  the  rich  cane  juice.  We  then  went 
to  the  house  of  the  chief  scribe  of  the  factory, 
who  hearing  our  story  at  once  invited  us  to 
spend  the  night  with  him,  but  the  remembrance 
of  past  experiences  of  Coptic  fleas,  and  other 
worse  vermin,  led  me  to  accept  the  invitation 
only  for  Makhiel,  while  I went  down  to  Mr. 
Harris’s  boat.  Miss  Harris  soon  extemporized 
an  abundant  supper,  and  then  arranged  upon 
the  lounge  what  she  termed  a shake-down  for 
the  night’s  rest.  Then  as  it  was  time  for  her  to 
retire,  I went  up  again  to  the  Copts,  knowing 
that  they  as  usual  would  be  in  for  a long  “ sa- 


SABBATH  WORK. 


239 


hara,”  and  the  evening  is  the  only  time  when 
one  can  usually  get  at  the  scribes,  as  they  are 
closely  kept  at  their  work  seven  days  in  the 
week.  I found  them  just  sitting  down  to  a 
bountiful  meal,  which  in  the  meantime  they  had 
prepared  for  Makhiel,  and  of  course  was  forced 
to  join  them,  though  I had  already  made  ample 
amends  for  the  privations  of  the  past  day.  But 
an  Arab  meal  never  makes  it  necessary  for  one 
not  hungry  to  feign  eating  long,  and  it  was  soon 
through  with.  Then  came  the  richer  repast — • 
the  feast  of  reason  and  the  flow  of  soul.  John 
Marcus  (our  old  friend  mentioned  in  the  former 
part  of  these  notes),  and  a number  of  the  neigh- 
bors were  present,  and  also  a priest  from  a dis- 
tant place,  who  was  a relative  of  our  host.  They 
fell  in  with  most  of  the  doctrinal  statements 
which  we  made,  but  excused  themselves  from 
corresponding  practice  by  saying  that  they  were 
not  freemen  and  their  own  masters,  that  they 
were  in  such  abject  slavery  to  the  Viceroy  and 
to  Mustapha  Pasha,  who  is  the  proprietor  of  tho 
factory,  that  they  were  unable  to  do  as  they 
wished.  In  the  single  item  of  working  on  the 
Sabbath,  which  they  are  all  forced  to  do,  I was 
forced  to  admit  the  justice  of  their  plea.  But 
even  here  I urged  them  to  take  a stand  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  demands  of  their  religion  and 
the  dictates  of  their  consciences.  But  this  is  a 
very  hard  case.  The  Copts  have  almost  a mo- 


240 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


nopoly  of  the  account  and  book-keeping  of  tho 
government ; and  being  trained  to  this  business 
from  early  youth,  if  dismissed  from  the  service 
they  are  fit  for  nothing  else,  and  starvation  stares 
them  in  the  face.  They  formerly  were  not  ob- 
liged to  work  on  the  Sabbath,  and  it  is  provoking 
to  think  that  an  English  employe  of  the  govern- 
ment was  instrumental  in  imposing  upon  them  this 
yoke ; and  now  it  seems  impossible  for  them  to 
shake  it  off,  except  by  a general  strike  through- 
out the  country,  and  for  this  they  have  not  yet 
as  a community  sufficient  moral  principle  or  con- 
cert of  action.  One,  or  a few  individuals  who 
should  take  a stand  on  the  subject,  would  be 
punished  by  the  government,  which  cannot  be 
expected  to  understand  or  enter  into  their  scru- 
ples, as  refractory  persons,  besides  the  want  into 
which,  should  they  succeed,  they  would  involve 
themselves  and  families.  This  state  of  things  is 
one  of  the  most  serious  obstacles  to  success 
among  this  large  and  most  influential  class  of 
the  Coptic  community. 

Still,  in  general*  I could  urge  upon  them  that 
the  slavery  of  Said  and  Mustapha  Pasha  was  as 
nothing  compared  with  the  heavy  spiritual  yoke 
under  which  they  had  voluntarily  thrust  their 
necks — that  the  finger  of  a priest  was  thicker 
than  the  loins  of  a Pasha — that  if  the  Pasha 
should  force  them  to  confess  their  sins  to  priests 
who  were  miserable  sinners  like  themselves,  and 


SELF-IMPOSED  BONDAGE. 


241 


vO  work  out  their  salvation  by  seven  mouths  of 
»aost  austere  fasting  in  a year,  and  drive  them 
A'.ff  every  month  or  two  to  the  convents  in  the 
mountains,  to  spend  the  long  cold  night  in 
screaming  hah,  hah,  hah,  and  to  pay  tithes,  and 
heavy  perquisites  besides,  to  a priesthood  which 
labored  not  for  their  spiritual  edification;  this 
would,  indeed  be  a bondage  heavier  than  that  of 
the  children  ol  Israel  under  their  forefathers — 
that  it  was  only  because  they  had  first  rendered 
themselves  mosi  abject  spiritual  slaves,  vile  in 
spirit  and  emasculated  in  all  their  powers,  that 
effeminate  Muslems,  whose  bodily  and  mental 
powers  had  evaporated  between  the  debauchery 
of  the  harem  and  the  steam  and  suffocation  of 
the  hot  bath  were  able  thus  to  rule  it  over  them ; 
and  that  if  they  would  only  first  arise  and  shake 
off  the  self-imposed  yoke  of  priestly  bondage,  I 
could  be  security  that  they  would  not  long  be 
under  the  other.  This  outburst  was  not  very 
palatable  to  the  priest  who  was  present,  but  all 
the  rest  said  Amen  to  it.  It  was  now  after  mid- 
night, and  I left.  John  Marcus  went  down  with 
me  on  his  way  to  his  own  house,  and  told  me 
that  at  my  last  visit  there  I had  forever  settled 
for  him  the  doctrine  of  justification  by  faith 
alone. 

Glh.  This  morning  Lord  Aberdeen  proposed  a 
measure  which  proved  a very  efficient  one  for 
facilitating  our  work.  He  had  brought  with 
21 


242 


Egypt’s  piiinces. 


him  a very  fine  tent,  and  this  we  pitched  in  the 
grove  below  the  town,  and  spreading  in  it  mats 
and  carpets,  and  taking  to  it  a box  of  hooks,  we 
were  prepared  to  receive  buyers,  and  to  accommo- 
date a small  audience  for  hearing  the  Word. 
Here  Makhiel  and  I labored  forenoon  and  after- 
noon and  evening  with  a constancy  which  left 
me  neither  time  nor  strength  for  keeping  up  my 
notes.  We  found  that  we  were  seldom  left  without 
an  audience.  Khaleel,  Keddes,  and  a few  others, 
were  almost  constant  attendants,  and  they  formed 
a nucleus  around  which  the  constant  -stream  of 
passers-by  eddied,  most  of  them  only  remaining 
an  hour  or  so,  and  then  passing  on  to  their 
business.  As, too,  we  had  now  set  up  house,  the 
custom  of  the  country  required  of  us  to  observe 
the  rites  of  hospitality,  and  so  we  kept  one  of 
the  boatmen  with  us  to  fill  the  pipes  and  boil  the 
coffee,  and  thus,  what  with  books,  and  preach- 
ing, and  refreshments,  our  tent  soon  became  a 
favorite  resort. 

There  is  here  a large  settlement  of  Berbers  or 
Nubians,  and  their  children  purchased  a great 
many  penny  tracts.  One  of  our  tracts  was 
called  "The  Best  of  the  Weary,”  and  the  latter 
word,  oy  changing  one  letter  of  it,  they,  in 
their  crooked  pronunciation  of  the  Arabic,  had 
changed  to  “ Serpent,”  and  so  wre  had  a rush  of 
them  for  “ The  Rest  of  Serpent.”  May  it  give 
many  of  them  rest  from  “ that  old  serpent  which 


RELIGIOUS  SERVICES. 


243 


is  the  Devil  and  Satan ; ” who  deceived  our  first 
parents  and  has  since  gone  about  destroying 
their  progeny ! Makhiel  held  his  hand  hard 
upon  the  tracts,  and  would  seldom  sell  them  one 
until  they  had  taken  a Bible  or  a Testament.  lie 
said,  “ These  tracts  are  sweet  but  evanescent ; 
you  read  them  once  or  twice  and  then,  like  a 
bacat  (bouquet)  of  flowers,  they  wither  and  fade 
in  your  hands ; but  this  book  is  like  a bit  ot 
musk  in  a trunk.  As  often  as  you  open  it,  it 
diffuses  its  fragrance,  and  it  retains  it  unimpaired 
for  years.” 

9th.  We  removed  our  tent  to  a new  place  on 
the  other  side  of  the  town,  so  that  all  its  people 
might  have  an  opportunity  to  come  to  us.  I 
was  rejoiced  to  find  that  the  mission  of  Antonins 
to  this  place  had  proved  a failure.  Ibrahim,  the 
Cummus,  or  head  priest,  was  one  of  our  most 
constant  attendants  at  the  tent,  and  to-day  (Sat- 
urday) he  invited  me  to  come  and  preach  to- 
morrow in  the  church.  He  is  a good,  simple- 
minded  man,  and,  I find,  no  admirer  of  the 
Bishop. 

10th.  Sabbath.  The  people  of  Esneh  have  the 
reputation  of  being  the  most  religious  in  Egypt, 
and  I found  the  services  at  the  church  much  fuller 
and  longer  than  at  Luxor.  When  I asked  the 
reason  of  this  they  told  me  that  the  bishop  had 
there  curtailed  them  for  his  own  convenience. 
Perhaps  his  curtailed  mass  is  the  one  which  in 


244 


Egypt’s  princes. 


after  times,  in  the  days  of  sporting  Lords  and 
complaisant  priests,  was  known  in  England  as  the 
“ hunting  mass.”  I was  happy  to  find  also  that 
instead  of  only  one  Scripture  lesson  in  Arabic 
they  had  several.  These  the  Kummus  pointed 
out  to  me  yesterday,  and  I chose  among  them 
John  viii.  51-59  for  my  text.  It  gave  me  a fine 
opportunity  for  bringing  out  two  points  most 
important  for  them,  as  they  were  for  the  Jews  in 
the  days  of  the  Saviour : First,  That  the  keep- 
ing of  Christ’s  sayings  is  the  true  test  of  disciple- 
ship  to  Him,  and  second,  that  religion  is  not  a 
hereditary  thing,  and  as  the  Jews  were  not  per- 
mitted to  presume  that  they  were  God’s  peojfie 
because  they  were  Abraham’s  seed,  so  they  also 
should  not  put  their  trust  in  the  fact  of  the 
Evangelist  Mark  having  been  the  founder  of 
their  Church,  and  they  descended  by  regular 
succession  from  the  saints  and  martyrs  of  olden 
times. 

After  service,  the  Kummus  took  us  to  his 
house,  where  breakfast  was  brought  to  us,  and 
then  we  remained  till  noon,  explaining  the  Word 
to  a company  that  still  clung  to  us,  and  who 
brought  forward  many  difficult  passages  to  be 
cleared  up.  Then  Iihaleel  and  Keddes  accom- 
panied us  to  the  dahabiyeh,  and  spent  the  rest 
of  the  day  with  us.  Their  earnestness  and  in- 
satiable avidity  for  the  truth  astonished  me, 
and  before  they  left  I took  them  aside  into  one 


DOCTRINAL  DISCUSSIONS. 


245 


of  the  cabins  and  had  prayer  with  them.  Du- 
ring prayer  I noticed  Khaleel  held  his  hand 
before  his  face  like  a Moslem,  which  confirmed 
an  impression  which  the  discussion  into  which 
lie  had  occasionally  led  us  through  the  week, 
had  made  on  my  mind,  that  he  had  been 
tainted  with  Muslem  views  of  truth.  He  seemed 
to  embrace  every  opportunity  to  lead  us  into 
discussions  of  the  doctrines  of  the  Trinity  and 
the  sonship  and  atonement  of  Christ.  It  is  no 
wonder  that  such  a corrupted  form  of  Chris- 
tianity as  we  here  have,  often  drives  earnest 
minds  elsewhere  to  seek  for  the  jewel  of  truth. 
I had  also  noticed  that  Christians  and  Muslems 
seemed  to  live  on  very  amicable  terms.  One 
day  a Muslem  funeral  passing  through  the 
streets,  I noticed  in  the  procession  quite  a num- 
ber 'of  Christians,  and  they  told  me  that  Mus- 
lems also  attended  their  funerals.  This  I have 
never  seen  elsewhere. 

Wth.  Sedhum  (already  mentioned  in  the  for- 
mer part  of  these  notes)  came  to-day  from  Edfou 
and  immediately  left  business  and  joined  our 
regular  congregation.  Poor  Kiddes  was  still 
clinging  to  his  fasting  and  other  superstitious 
rites  of  the  church,  of  the  fallacy  of  which,  as  I 
have  already  narrated,  I failed  to  convince  him 
on  my  last  visit.  On  coming  here  last  week  the 
subject  was  again  renewed,  and  I soon  found 
that  the  only  way  to  convince  him  was  to  give 
21* 


24G 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


him  the  fall  Scripture  testimony  on  the  subject, 
and  so  taking  my  Concordance,  I made  out  a 
full  list  of  all  the  passages  of  Scripture  in  which 
fasting  is  mentioned,  arranging  them  so  as  to 
show  the  Scriptural  times,  methods,  and  ends  of 
fasting.  This  paper  I gave  him,  and  told  him 
to  take  his  Bible  and  review  the  whole  subject, 
and  then  act  accordingly.  To-day  he  came  down 
to  the  dahabiyeh  before  we  went  up  to  the  tent, 
and  Makhiel  and  the  dragoman  were  just  sitting 
down  on  the  deck  to  their  breakfast  of  fried 
eggs,  when  I told  him  “ Kiddes,  take  hold  and 
welcome.”  He  quietly  answered,  “ I have  had 
my  breakfast  to-day.”  He  had  taken  the  great 
stand.  The  Bible  had  convinced  him,  and  he 
had  broken  fast,  and  henceforth  he  is  no  longer 
a Copt,  but  a Protestant. 

12 Ih.  Keddes  came  this  morning  with  onfe  of 
the  blind  areefs.  While  this  one  was  sipping 
his  coffee  Keddes  beckoned  to  me  to  follow  him 
outside  the  tent,  when  he  told  me  that  he  had 
last  night  had  a terrible  contest  with  him  until 
after  midnight,  on  the  subject  of  the  new  stand 
he  had  taken.  I think  I have  already  remarked 
that  the  blind  areefs  are  usually  in  Scriptural 
knowledge  the  most  intelligent  men  in  the  com- 
munity. In  all  controversies  and  doubtful  points 
they  are  the  oracles,  and  their  decisions  carry 
with  them  great  weight.  They  teach  the  chil- 
dren and  live  upon  the  benefactions  of  the  peo- 


POWER  OP  TRUTH. 


247 


pie,  and  I have  usually  found  it  expedient  to 
propitiate  their  favor  by  a present  of  a copy  of 
the  Psalms,  and  in  some  cases  a Testament  or 
Bible.  This  man,  Kiddes  told  me,  came  to  him 
exhorting  him  to  beware  of  false  prophets,  which 
Kiddes  answered  by  telling  him  and  those  with 
him  to  beware  of  him,  and  not  excommunicate 
him  as  they  threatened,  or  he  would  take  back 
the  idols  which  he  had  given  to  all  the  churches 
from  Esneh  to  Assouan,  and  hang  them  up 
around  the  rooms  of  his  house  by  way  of  orna- 
ment. (He  in  his  blind  devotion  had  some  time 
before  made  a large  donation  of  pictures  to  these 
churches,  which  now  he  heartily  repented.)  lie 
told  them  moreover  that  if  these  pictures  had 
had  virtue  in  them,  and  his  fastings  merit,  they 
should  have  preserved  him  from  the  loss  of  sev- 
enteen purses  (about  $280)  which  had  lately 
been  stolen  from  him  in  Cairo.  But  Kiddes 
did  not  depend  alone  upon  his  hard  arguments 
and  sturdy  obstinacy  to  carry  him  safely  through 
this  wordy  ordeal,  for,  reminding  me  that  I had 
by  mistake  passed  over  this  areef  in  my  gift  of 
copies  of  the  Psalms  to  the  areefs,  he  had  that 
morning  presented  him  one  as  from  me,  and  had 
now  dragged  him  down,  though  very  reluctant 
to  come,  on  the  plea  that  I wished  to  see  him, 
and  that  it  would  be  impolite  not  to  call.  This 
I felt  had  all  been  very  keenly  managed,  and 
offered  to  repay  him  for  the  copy  of  the  Psalms 


248 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


which  he  had  presented  in  my  name.  But  he 
said  “No,  I used  to  buy  pictures  for  the  churches, 
now  I think  I can  afford  to  grant  a book.”  W e 
now  slipped  into  the  tent  again  where  we  found 
Makhiel  entertaining  the  areef  and  the  others 
who  had  come.  He,  not  having  been  aware  of 
our  departure  nor  our  return,  must  have  con- 
cluded by  this  time  that  the  strange  preacher 
whom  he  had  pictured  to  himself  as  a wolf  in 
sheep’s  clothing,  was  a very  quiet  man.  But  I 
had  now  learned  my  man,  and  could  deal  my 
blows  where  they  would  tell.  It  was  not  a 
difficult  matter  to  drag  in  the  passage  about  the 
false  teachers  who  were  as  wolves  in  sheeps’ 
clothing,  when  I took  occasion  to  explain  at 
length  who  they  were  and  what  their  character- 
istics, to  whom  the  Saviour  applied  those  epi- 
thets. The  24th  chapter  of  Matthew  served  me 
for  a full  length  portrait  of  them,  and  it  was  evi- 
dent before  I was  done  that  all  present,  even  the 
areef,  could  see  in  the  picture  a strong  family 
likeness  to  the  chief  priests  and  scribes  in  their 
own  midst,  and  that  they  need  no  longer  apply 
the  description  to  us  foreigners.  This  served 
me  for  the  Gospel  “ lesson”  for  the  forenoon 
service,  and  then  for  the  Epistle  I took  the  first 
chapter  of  1st  Corinthians,  which  so  well  de- 
scribes the  sin  of  sectarianism  and  party  spirit. 

In  the  afternoon  Sedhum  asked  me  for  a few 
charges  of  powder  to  add  to  the  stock  which  ha 


RELIGIOUS  CEREMONIES. 


249 


had  already  provided  for  the  occasion  of  the 
baptism  of  his  child,  which  he  expected  soon  to 
celebrate  at  a convent  of  Pachomius,  back  of 
Edfou.  This  gave  me  another  text,  and  I asked 
him  why  he  should  go  a journey  of  two  days  to 
have  his  child  baptized  at  a place  accounted  holy, 
while  that  God  whose  ordinance  it  is,  is  the  Om- 
nipresent One.  And  it  also  gave  an  opportunity 
to  explain  the  ordinance  at  length  and  show  how 
they  had  corrupted  it.  He  promised  to  present 
his  own  child  in  baptism  instead  of  having  the 
mother  or  a godmother  do  it,  and  to  strive 
afterwards  to  train  it  up  “ in  the  nurture  and 
admonition  of  the  Lord.” 

The  use  of  firearms  in  religious  ceremonies 
and  rejoicings  in  the  East  is  very  common. 
Swords  are  also  often  used.  I once  attended  a 
feast  of  the  Virgin  at  her  noted  convent  at 
Sadainiah  above  Damascus,  where  the  whole 
week  Avas  spent  by  the  assembled  crowds  in 
sword  exercises  in  the  church  and  in  repeating 
poetry.  The  manner  in  which  the  latter  Avas 
performed  was  an  illustration  of  the  manner  in 
Avhich  the  Psalms  of  David  should  be  sung  in 
our  churches.  There  Avere  several  poets  present, 
and  sometimes  one  of  these,  forming  the  people 
into  a large  circle,  would  take  his  place  in  the 
centre,  and  then  giving  them  a chorus,  like  that 
in  the  136tli  Psalm,  he  would  each  time  impro- 
vise a sentence,  and  then  they  in  full  orchestra 


250 


EGYPT  S FRIXCES. 


would  break  in  with  the  chorus  which  he  had 
given  them.  How  magnificent  it  would  sound 
to  have  that  Psalm  thus  sung  in  our  churches. 
The  choir  that  now  squeaks  out  Watts’  dogger- 
els away  off  in  the  gallery  to  come  down  before 
the  people  and  chant  the  separate  verses,  and 
then  the  whole  congregation  in  full  chorus  to 
join  in  the  glorious  refrain,  “For  his  mercy  en- 
dureth  forever:”  or  that  sublime  107th  Psalm 
in  which  after  longer  periods  the  chorus  still 
recurs,  “ Oh  that  men  would  praise  the  Lord  for 
his  goodness,  and  for  his  wonderful  works  to  the 
children  of  men.”  A number  of  the  Psalms  were 
evidently  intended  thus  to  be  sung.  In  some 
of  them  the  chorus  seems  only  to  be  given  in  the 
first  verse,  and  then  not  repeated  after  each  verse 
or  period.  Such  for  example  appears  to  be  the 
first  verse  of  the  118th  Psalm:  “ Oh  give  thanks 
unto  the  Lord  for  He  is  good,  because  his  mercy 
endureth  forever.”  Then  at  Sadainiah,  they  had 
another  system  which  answered  to  the  parallel- 
ism of  the  Psalms,  which  one  must  notice  is  the 
structure  of  most  of  them.  Two  poets  took  their 
places  in  the  ring,  and  improvised  sentences  in 
response  to  each  other,  the  second  each  time 
bringing  a parallel  to  the  sentence  of  the  first, 
either  repeating  in  different  words  or  explaining 
or  amplifying  his  sentiment.  While  doing  tins  the 
circle  about  them  would  slowly  and  compactly 
move  around  keeping  time  with  the  chanting 


SINGING  PSALMS. 


251 


and  with  the  musical  instruments  with  their  feet 
and  hands,  while  the  sword  exercises  were  go- 
ing on  just  without  the  ring.  The  whole  brought 
to  mind  very  vividly  the  149th  Psalm:  ‘'Praise 
ye  the  Lord,  sing  unto  the  Lord  a new  song  and 
his  praise  in  the  congregation  of  the  saints.  . . . 
Let  them  praise  his  name  in  the  dance.  Let  them 
sing  praises  to  him  with  the  timbrel  and  harp.  . . . 
Let  the  high  praises  of  God  be  in  their  mouth  and 
a two-edged  sword  in  their  hand.'1''  Thus  David 
could  “sing  of  mercy  and  of  judgment,”  and 
thus  to  this  day  the  Arabs  wreath  the  sword 
with  the  olive  branch.  Tims,  Paul  too,  could  call 
upon  men  “to  behold  the  goodness  and  sever- 
ity of  God,”  and  could  cry  out,  “ Oh  the  depth 
of  the  riches  both  of  the  wisdom  and  knowledge 
of  God.  How  unsearchable  are  his  judgments , 
and  his  ways  past  finding  out.”  But  in  these 
days  the  sentimentality  of  modern  poetasters 
lias  voted  David  a heathen,  because  he  penned 
the  109th  Psalm,  and  even  Paul,  in  some  of  his 
views,  -an  old  fogy.  But  “ nevertheless  the 
foundation  of  God  standetli  sure,”  and  on  the 
reverse  faces  of  his  seal  are  these  mottoes,  “The 
Lord  knoweth  them  that  arc  his — and  let  every 
one  that  nameth  the  name  of  Christ  depart  from 
all  iniquity.” 

David  and  his  harp  following  the  flocks  of 
Jesse  were  brought  still  more  forcibly  to  my 
mind  when  they  offered  to  bring  me  a shepherd 


252 


Egypt’s  ebinces. 


who  they  said  could  improvise  poetry  the  eve- 
ning long,  hut  they  failed  to  find  him  and  so  I 
missed  that  treat. 

I may  remark  while  on  the  subject, that  I have 
sometimes  heard  the  psalms  which  are  in  paral- 
lelisms sung  in  the  Coptic  churches  by  two  com- 
panies of  singers,  the  one  old  men  and  the  other 
boys,  whose  voices  were  pitched  an  octave 
higher,  and  the  effect  was  delightful.  Every 
one  I think  will  agree  that  the  reading  of  the 
Psalms  in  the  English  Episcopal  service,  in  which 
the  people  respond  to  the  clerk,  is  the  most  edi- 
fying  part  of  the  service.  But  even  this  is  not 
enough.  The  whole  congregation  should  he 
divided  into  two  parties  and  then  they  should  be 
chanted,  not  read. 

But  this  hard  week’s  work  must  he  brought 
to  a close,  as  Lord  Aberdeen  wished  to  proceed 
to  Assouan.  Our  plan  had  been  that  after  his 
visit  here  he  should  proceed  on  his  journey,  and 
I return  on  horseback,  or  by  some  chance  boat. 
He,  delighted  by  our  success  here,  and  tire  man- 
ifest interest  of  the  people,  wished  to  keep  me 
with  him  in  the  trip  to  Assouan  and  back,  but  I 
did  not  think  it  right  to  leave  Mrs.  L.  so  long 
alone  in  the  midst  of  the  small-pox  at  Luxor. 
He  then  proposed  that  we  should  return  for  her 
and  all  go  together,  but  I could  not  entertain 
this  idea,  for  I saw  that  even  with  me  alone  his 
mind  was  much  engrossed  with  the  care  of  male- 


A NIGHT'S  FEAST. 


253 


ing  everything  pleasant  and  comfortable,  and  I 
feared  that,  with  us  both,  his  hospitality  would 
in  his  enfeebled  state  prove  too  much  for  his 
nerves.  So  it  was  concluded  that  I should  return, 
and  as  there  were  no  dahabiyehs  coming  down, 
in  which  I could  get  a chance,  and  in  an  open 
native  boat  there  was  a risk  of  being  forced  to 
sleep  out,  he  sent  up  to  the  Bey  and  had  a horse 
brought,  but  when  I mounted  and  tried  the  sad- 
dle, preparatory  to  the  journey  on  the  morrow, 
I found  the  pain  in  my  side  so  severe  that  I could 
not  ride,  so  he  concluded  to  take  me  back  to 
Luxor  and  then  return. 

That  evening  was  to  be  our  last  in  Esneh,  and 
Kiddes  had  made  arrangements  for  making  a 
feast  for  me  and  some  of  our  new-made  friends. 
When  he  announced  this  at  sunset  I was  dis- 
mayed and  said,  “ Kiddes,  you  see  the  state  I 
am  in.  I have  talked  all  day,  indeed  the  whole 
Aveek,  and  am  hoav  too  Aveak  to  stand  or  Avalk.” 
He  answered,  “We  will  carry  you.”  To  this, 
seeing  how  great  a disappointment  to  them-  a 
refusal  Avould  be,  I assented  ; and  so  clasping  my 
arms  around  the  necks  of  Kiddes  and  Sedhum, 
and  they  theirs  around  my  back,  they  dragged 
me  up  to  the  house.  Besides  our  old  acquaint- 
ances, I found  he  had  got  in  a couple  of  friends 
whom  he  had  not  been  able  to  entice  to  the  tent 
to  hear  the  neAV  teacher,  and  we  had  but  just  got 
seated  Avhen  the  Testaments  were  brought  out 
22 


254 


Egypt’s  princes. 


and  1 was  asked  to  expound  a chapter.  This 
was  done  and  then  dinner  was  brought  on,  after 
which  the  Testaments  were  again  brought  out, 
and  he  asked  me  to  give  them  a specimen  of  the 
manner  in  which  they  should  carry  on  family 
worship  in  their  houses.  I read  another  chap- 
ter, with  a few  remarks,  and  then  led  them  in 
prayer,  the  women  meanwhile  standing  in  the 
door  passage  where  they  could  hear  and  not  be 
seen.  They  then  dragged  me  down  again  to  the 
dahabiyeh.  Noble  men!  I could  hav§  stayed 
there  to  spend  my  life  with  them. 

1 3 tli.  We  to-day  bade  farewell  to  our  friends 
and  turned  our  prow  towards  Luxor.  The  wind 
was  calm  during  the  forenoon,  and  with  the 
strong  current  and  the  oars  of  the  men  we  made 
good  progress.  The  Nile  boatmen  always  sing 
in  rowing.  One  of  them  improvising  or  repeat- 
ing their  silly  ditties,  and  the  rest  shouting  the 
chorus.  The  chorus  to-day  was 

“ Ya  lil-asabiyeh  fe  liomat.  El  Medan 
Sevastopol  akhuthha  asaker  Es  Sultan.” 

(Oh  to  the  lions  in  the  reach  of  the  race-course 
Sevastopol  was  taken  by  the  soldiers  of  the  Sultan.) 

Such  are  the  thanks  of  the  “ sick  man”  to  Eng- 
land and  France  for  their  kind  interposition  to 
save  him  from  the  great  northern  bear  when  he 
came  down  to  craunch  his  bones. 

We  met  Mr.  Riley,  of  New  York,  whose  ac- 


INCIDENTS. 


255 


quaintance  we  had  made  at  Luxor,  and  who  was 
afterwards  very  kind  to  us.  He  brought  a letter 
from  Mrs.  L.  containing  the  sad  news  that  small- 
pox was  in  the  house — that  two  of  Mustapha’s 
children  had  taken  it  and  one  of  them  died  of  it. 

At  Jebelein  (“the  two  mountains,”  which  on 
both  sides  of  the  valley  here  come  down  very 
close  to  the  river,)  tl^e  north  wind  became  so 
strong  that  we  were  obliged  to  lie  by  for  the 
rest  of  the  day. 

14 th.  The  wind  still  being  strong,  Makliiel  and 
I went  to  the  west  side  of  the  river,  where  we 
had  heard  there  was  a village  containing  Copts. 
After  trying  the  w'ay  I found  it  would  prove 
too  long  a walk  for  me,  and  so  sending  him  I 
returned  and  took  the  small  boat  and  went  down 
to  a village  on  the  east  bank  which  was  nearer 
shore ; I found  in  it  but  one  Christian  family. 
The  old  man  was  weaving,  and  neither  he  nor 
his  son,  who  soon  came,  could  read.  They  were 
very  illiterate.  Indeed,  all  I could  get  out  of 
them  of  Christian  knowledge  "was  about  half  of 
the  Lord’s  Prayer.  I was  by  this  time  hungry, 
and  asked  them  if  they  could  furnish  me  with  a 
loaf.  They  brought  me  a load  of  “bittaws,” 
(small  Indian  loaves,)  and  some  cheese.  After 
eating  I offered  to  pay  them,  but  they  said,  “No  ! 
would  we  take  money  for  bread ! that  would  be 
a shame.”  They  said  they  had  children ; so  I 
gave  them  a Testament  and  some  tracts,  and  they 


2d6 


EixfPT  S PRINCES. 


promised  to  have  their  children  taught  to  read. 
By  this  time  a couple  of  Muslems  had  come  in, 
and  so  I took  my  Testament  and  read  and  ex- 
plained the  parable  of  the  Prodigal  Son.  They 
seemed  delighted  with  it,  and  the  old  man  and 
his  son  said  they  had  never  before  heard  it.  I 
then  left  and  had  proceeded  about  twenty  min- 
utes when  one  of  the  Muslems  came  running 
after  me,  wishing  me  to  go  back,  saying  that  the 
whole  village  had  now  collected,  and  that  they 
wished  to  hear  that  same  teaching.  This  invi- 
tation it  was  very  hard  to  decline,  but  the  wind 
had  now  lulled,  and  the  dahabiyeh  had  started, 
and  I did  not  feel  able  to  walk  back,  and  so  I 
had  to  commend  him  to  the  books  I had  left,  and 
them  all  to  the  leading  and  enlightenment  of 
God’s  word  and  spirit. 

But  I found  after  he  left,  that  Makhiel  had 
not  yet  come  down  on  the  opposite  bank,  and  so 
I stopped  at  another  village  which  was  near  at 
hand.  In  it  I found,  as  in  many  villages  of  the 
Nile,  only  one  Copt,  and  he  the  Government 
accountant  and  tax-gatherer.  He  met  me  in  the 
street  before  his  door,  and  so  we  sat  down  there, 
as  we  often  must  do  when  the  house  is  not  large 
enough  for  a harem  and  reception-room.  The 
coffee  was  brought  out,  showing  that  there  was 
no  lack  of  hospitality,  and  he  brought  a Bible. 
The  Muslems  going  and  coming  began  to  sit 
down  on  each  side  of  the  street,  to  see  who  the 


INSTRUCTION. 


257 


new-comer  was,  and  what  his  business,  and  soon 
I had  a company  of  twenty  or  thirty  of  them. 
I offered  to  sell  them  books,  and  on  inquiring 
>what  books  I had,  I told  them  the  Holy  Book 
of  God.  The  Khateeb  (orator)  of  the  Mosque, 
was  present,  and  so  they  referred  the  matter  to 
him.  He  examined  my  wares  and  dubiously 
shook  his  head.  I then  quoted  to  him  the  first 
verses  of  the  “ Cow  ” chapter  of  the  Koran 
which  say,  “ There  is  no  doubt  in  this  book.  It 
is  a direction  to  the  pious  who  believe  in  the 
mysteries  of  faith,  who  observe  the  appointed 
times  of  prayer,  and  distribute  alms  out  of  what 
we  have  bestowed  on  them,  and  who  believe  in 
that  revelation  which  hath  been  sent  down  to 
thee,  and  that  which  hath  been  sent  down  to 
the  prophets  before  thee,  and  have  firm  assurance 
of  the  life  to  come.  These  are  directed  by  their 
Lord,  and  they  shall  prosper.”  I then  said  that 
their  own  prophet  being  judge,  they  must 
believe  in  “ that  which  hath  been  sent  down  to 
the  prophets  before  him,”  which  they  admitted 
was  the  revelations  of  Moses  and  Jesus,  and  the 
Prophets,  that  unless  they  believed  them  they 
were  not  “ directed  by  their  Lord  and  should 
not  prosper,”  and  that  they  could  not  believe 
them  unless  they  would  buy  and  read  the  book. 
This  argument  I have  often  used  with  the  Mus- 
lems,  and  they  have  sometimes  bought  Bibles 
on  the  strength  of  it.  The  Khateeb,  however, 
22* 


258 


Egypt’s  princes. 


brought  up  the  old  Muslem  argument,  that  the 
Jews  and  Christians  had  corrupted  the  Bible, 
which  led  to  a long  discussion,  in  which  the 
company  admitted  that  their  champion  was 
worsted.  The  Christians  sat  amazed  to  see  me 
thus  beard  the  lion  in  his  den,  and  to  hear  me 
quote  the  Koran,  whidh  the  Muslems  do  not 
allow  them  to  read,  as  they  say  that  none  buu 
the  clean  must  touch  it. 

I limped  down  to  the  boat,  and  now  found 
Makhiel  waiting  on  the  other  side.  On  the 
shore  it  Avas  very  hot,  but  on  the  water  we 
found  it  cooler,  and  I took  a sound  nap  in  tho 
stern  of  the  boat,  while  Makhiel  held  over  us 
the  umbrella,  and  the  men  rowed  us  down  to 
the  dahabiyeh,  Avhich  Ave  overtook  at  Erment. 
Here  we  found,  as  it  was  market-day,  and  many 
villagers  in  from  neighboring  places,  that  the 
men  had  sold  a large  number  of  books.  My 
long  nap,  and  a bountiful  dinner  Avhich  her  Lady- 
ship had  in  readiness  for  me,  refreshed  me  for 
neAV  adventures.  I accordingly  went  up  and 
^took  my  seat  on  the  shore  to  see  who  would 
come.  John  Markus  spying  me  from  the  win- 
doAV  of  the  DeAvan,  took  the  liberty  of  closing 
his  day’s  work  as  it  was  now  near  night,  and 
came  out.  We  had  a long  talk,  but,  poor  man, 
I thought  I noticed  then  the  beginnings  of  what 
wras  very  marked  in  a subsequent  visit,  viz. : 
that  he  had  come  to  a stand,  and  that  on  the 


CONSCIENTIOUS  SIN. 


259 


question  of  Sabbath-breaking.  He  promised  to 
read  constantly  his  Bible,  and  to  walk  according 
to  it  and  his  conscience.  But  it  is  hard  urging 
a man  to  follow  his  conscience  whose  bread 
depends  upon  his  systematic  commission  of  a 
known  and  acknowledged  sin.  The  one  sin 
known  and  indulged  in  sears  the  conscience  and 
eats  out  the  spiritual  life.  One  thing,  at  least,  I 
told  him  he  could  never  again  do.  He  could 
no  longer  go  as  the  others  do  to  the  priest  and 
confess,  and  receive  absolution,  and  the  false 
peace  of  conscience  which  it  brings,  while-  he 
and  the  priest  were  both  aware  that  there  was 
one  sin  unconfessed  and  unrepented  of — nay,  dis- 
tinctly proposed  to  the  mind  as  a sin  to  be  lived 
in  all  the  days  of  his  life.  I left  him  in  a state 
of  pitiful  anxiety  and  distress,  and  trust  the 
Lord  may  lead  him  in  his  own  good  wav  and 
bring  him  to  a wide  place.  We  left  at  sunset, 
and  reached  Luxor  at  eleven  o’clock  p.  :u. 


CHAPTER  X. 

15 th.  I must  now  return  to  bring  up  the 
thread  of  Theban  history.  The  Bishop  was  ab- 
sent on  a visit  to  Ghinneh,  to  pay  his  respects 
to  Fadil  Pasha.  And  well  he  might  do  so,  for 
that  dignitary  had  put  forth  his  hand  to  vex 
him  still  more  in  the  persons  of  his  relatives, 
and  some  of  them  had  been  taken  to  sweep  the 
streets  of  Ghinneh,  with  the  attachment  of  a 
ball  to  their  legs  by  way  of  rolling  them.  Now 
I understood  why,  after  his  ugly  cut  of  me  in 
the  church,  he  had  twice  sent  to  me  to  be  recon- 
ciled, and  why,  unable  to  stoop  so  low  as  to  cal’ 
on  me,  he  had  even  come  to  the  new  school- 
house  as  the  neutral  ground,  and  attempted  t( 
patch  up  a false  reconciliation  ; why  also  he 
shut  himself  up  in  his  room  and  refused  to  see 
any  one,  and  even  had  no  heart  for  public  ser- 
vices in  the  church  on  the  Sabbath.  He  hoped 
still  to  use  me  in  propitiating  or  subduing  the 
Pasha,  and  when  my  journey  to  the  south  cut 
off  this  hope,  he  took  his  departure  for  the 
north  to  see  what  he  could  do  by  a personal 
interview.  On  leaving  he  forbade  the  Christian 
(260) 


CHRISTIAN  SCHOOLS. 


261 


boys  attending  the  school  any  longer,  and  they 
for  the  moment  obeyed,  but,  as  soon  as  his  back 
was  turned,  they  returned  to  school.  But  I had 
come  back  just  in  time  to  see  them  scatter 
again.  Word  came,  I know  not  how,  that 
I Fadil  Pasha  had  expressed  a determination  to 
deal  with  the  boys  who  should  continue  coming 
to  the  school,  so  all  the  Christian  boys,  except 
six,  left.  These  seemed  determined  to  bravo 
the  ire  of  both  Bishop  and  Pasha.  The  parents 
of  the  rest  came  to  me,  and  with  a sorrow  which 
was  evidently  unfeigned,  said  that  they  did  not 
care  for  the  Bishop,  that  they  would 'send  their 
children  in  spite  of  him,  but  that  Fadil  Pasha 
was  a mighty  man,  and  was  too  much  for  them. 
That  they  were  sincere  in  this  was  evident  from 
the  fact,  that  up  to  this  time  they  had  continued 
sending  their  children  in  spite  of  the  prohibi- 
tion of  the  Bishop.  I could  not  believe  that 
Fadil  Pasha  had  taken  any  such  step,  but  they 
evidently  believed  it  and  that  was  enough.  It 
thinned  our  poor  school  terribly.  I tried  to 
talk  it  out  of  their  heads,  but  in  vain.  I might 
have  traced  the  report  up  to  its  source  and  then 
have  striven  to  correct  it,  or  if  true  to  reverse  it, 
even  if  necessary  by  a visit  in  the  wake  of  the 
Bishop  to  the  Pasha,  but  I was  heartily  sick  of 
Luxor  politics — indeed,  my  hard  labor  ^t  Esneh 
had  left  me  unfit  for  anything  but  the  bed.  I 
had  learned  in  that  trip  that  there  was  yet  a 


262 


Egypt’s  princes. 


great  deal  of  the  land  of  Egypt  outside  of 
Luxor,  in  which  labor  would  be  much  more 
productive.  The  time  of  our  departure  was 
also  at  hand,  and  it  was  evident  that  Monsur, 
weak  in  body  and  unable  to  cope  with  the  wiles 
of  the  adversary,  could  not  be  left  behind  for 
the  summer,  and  so  for  the  few  days  which  we 
were  to  remain  I determined  to  let  things  swing. 
In  my  notes  of  the  time,  I find  the  following 
entry : “ This  whole  movement  is  doing  good. 
It  has  brought  down  upon  the  Bishop  the  odium 
among  his  own  people,  which  he  so  richly 
deserves.  The  school  for  the  time  suffers,  but 
he  will  yet  find  that  like  old  Kronos  he  has  only 
swallowed  a stone  in  swaddling  clothes,  and 
that  there  is  a young  J upiter  growing  up  to 
manly  strength  in  the  mountains,  who  will  yet 
be  down  upon  him  and  make  him  vomit  up 
what  he  has  swallowed.” 

The  report  of  Fadil  Pasha’s  interference  to 
crush  the  school  was  true,  but  I did  not  ascer- 
tain its  truth  till  we  were  on  our  return  voyage 
home.  I was  then  informed  at  Ghinneh  and  at 
Osiout,  that  the  Bishop  on  going  there  had 
secured  the  interest  of  the  Italian  Catholic 
priest,  whose  influence  with  the  Pasha  through 
the  French  Consular  agent  was  considerable  ; 
and  tha^  one  of  the  enemies  of  our  cause  at 
Osiout,  had  also  written  to  a relative  of  his  who 
was  a favorite  scribe  with  the  Pasha,  securing 


THE  BISHOP. 


263 


his  influence  against  us.  When  they  once  got 
the  Pasha’s  ear  they  could  of  course  tell  him 
anything  they  chose  about  this  strange  Ameri- 
can and  his  doings  and  purposes,  and  there  was 
no  one  present  to  contradict  them.  My  curt 
message  formerly  sent  to  him  would  probably 
not  predispose  him  in  our  favor,  so  we  will* 
have  to  admit  that  the  Bishop  of  Luxor  at  last 
triumphed.  But  it  was  a well-fought  battle,  and 
we  Americans  have  since  learned  that  an  occa- 
sional defeat,  even  in  a good  cause,  is  no  dis- 
grace. His  triumph  was  a greater  moral  defeat 
to  him  than  though  he  had  been  conquered. 
All  the  Copts  who  heard  of  it,  even  the  debased 
Luxorites,  blushed  with  shame  to  see  a Christian 
bishop  thus  fight  against  a Christian  school 
generously  established  by  Christian  philanthropy 
for  the  instruction  of  their  children  in  the  oracles 
of  truth,  and  that  he  finally  scrupled  not  to  call 
to  his  aid  a Catholic  priest  and  a Muslem  Pasha. 
And  if  any  were  disposed  to  think  differently, 
the  victory  which  we  achieved  a few  months  later 
in  the  case  of  Paris,  which  made  the  ears  of  all 
Egypt  tingle,  set  us  all  right  again. 

1 1th.  Sabbath.  I was  too  unwell  to-day  to 
preach  either  in  Arabic  or  English,  though  a 
number  of  dahabiyehs  were  in  port. 

1 SM.  To-day  Mustapha  made  a good  specula- 
tion. Our  American  Consul-General  had  secured 
for  him  (I  hardly  know  whether  by  him  here,  I 


264 


Egypt’s  princes. 


intend  to  say  for  himself  or  for  Mustapha,)  from 
the  Government,  permission  to  dig  for  antiqui- 
ties, and  Mustapha,  with  his  Consular  agencies 
and  his  Muslem  Agaship,  was  able  to  command 
sufficient  patronage  to  have,  like  the  Viceroy, 
his  band  of  laborers  in  the  tombs,  these  mines 
of  antiquity.  These  were  willing  to  labor  for 
the  small  pickings  they  were  able  to  appropriate 
to  themselves,  while  they  gave  the  large  things 
to  Mustapha. 

I will  not  tell  how  he  often  had  to  brow-beat 
them  to  make  them  disgorge  a share  at  least  of 
the  scarabsei  which  they  found  ; but  they  could 
not  conceal  in  their  bosoms  the  mummies,  and 
to-day  he  had  a couple  of  fine  ones  sent  to  a 
Mr.  D.,  whose  taste  took  that  direction.  They 
were  evidently  man  and  wife,  and  both  cases 
were  of  very  superior  workmanship,  though  the 
husband’s  was  much  the  finest.  A bargain  was 
soon  struck  for  this  one  for  fifty  pounds,  and 
Mr.  D.  invited  a few  of  us  to  be  present  at  the 
opening,  which  took  place  in  Mustapha’s  back 
hall.  The  two  beautifully  carved  cases  which 
enclosed  the  mummies  were  sawn  through  and 
broken  up  ; though  had  they  been  taken  to  Eng- 
land with  the  mummies  in  them,  he  would  have 
something  worth  seeing  for  his  money.  The 
body  was  then  unwrapped,  bandage  after  band- 
age, until  the  ornaments  were  reached,  and  they 
were  a few  trinkets,  such  as  he  might  have  pur- 


MUMMIES. 


265 


chased  from  any  of  the  boys  for  a dollar.  But 
Mr.  D.  then  concluded  that  the  treasures  must 
he  with  the  wife,  and  so  he  purchased  the  other 
one  for  twenty  pounds,  and  this  too  was  un- 
wrapped ; and  the  result  of  the  dusty  job  was 
a heap  of  dried  dust,  and  bones,  and  bitumen. 
Poor  Mr.D.  had  got  the  value  of  a dollar’s  worth 
of  antiquity  for  three  hundred  and  fifty  dollars — a 
pretty  dear  whistle  ! People  may  wonder  at  this 
and  call  it  infatuation  ; but  not  long  since  a mum- 
my was  found  »of  an  Egyptian  Queen,  in  which 
golden  ornaments  were  found  to  the  amount  of 
thirty-four  pounds  weight ; and  so  who  knows 
but  that  each  mummy  may  be  a queen,  and  men 
will  invest  in  lotteries.  The  Luxorites,  however, 
are  better  connoisseurs,  and  can  better  judge  of 
the  value  of  one  of  their  mummied  ancestors 
than  the  strangers  can,  and  they  themselves 
open  the  mummies  that  are  likely  to  contain 
treasures.  They  can  distinguish  between  a 
mummy  of  the  times  of  the  Pharaohs  and  of 
the  Ptolemies  ; and  it  is  said  they  sometimes 
replace  one  of  the  former  by  one  of  the  latter 
in  the  cases  which  they  sell  to  their  Frank  cus- 
tomers. Of  course,  I do  not  intend  to  insinuate 
that  either  Mustapha  or  his  Gournour  diggers 
had  done  this  in  the  present  case.  Mustapha 
did  well  with  his  curiosities,  and  he  had  still  a 
statue  for  which  he  pretended  to  ask  $1,000. 
It  usually  stood  very  conspicuously  in  the  centre 
23 


266 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


of  the  main  hall.  But  when  our  Consul-Qeneral, 
Mr.  De  Leon,  visited  here  a few  wTeeks  ago,  it 
was  removed  to  the  harem,  and  I was  charged 
not  to  say  anything  about  it. 

Among  the  notable  things  of  Luxor  is  the 
tomb  of  a noted  Muslem  saint,  called  Abu  El 
Llajaj,  and  his  mulid  or  feast  has  this  week  kept 
Luxor  in  a perfect  turmoil.  This  Abu  ElHajaj 
must  have  been  a redoubtable  cavalier,  for  horse- 
manship was  the  leading  feature  of  his  feast. 
Many  came  from  distant  places  %dth  their  line 
horses,  and  the  exercises  were  kept  up  through 
the  week  in  the  open  space  between  Mustapha’s 
house  and  the  river. 

I was  surprised  that  they  did  not  undertake 
the  famous  Eastern  tournament  of  the  Jereed, 
but  they  did  not.  The  spectators,  who  num- 
bered thousands,  arranged  themselves  in  anjiri- 
mense  ring,  within  which  the  exercises  were 
performed  to  the  sound  of  harsh,  horse  music, 
which  was  kept  up  by  the  hour.  A quick  start, 
a brisk  run,  and  a sudden  stop  and  wheelabout 
were  the  favorite  feats  of  the  riders.  The  horses 
were  bleeding  at  the  mouth  by  the  savage 
bits  with  which  they  were  thrown  upon  their 
haunches  when  in  full  run,  and  their  sides  were 
gashed  and  bleeding  by  the  shoveled  stirrups 
which  served  for  both  stirrup  and  spur.  And 
this,  together  with  the  music,  made  them  act  as 
if  infuriated. 


MUSLEM  FESTIVITIES. 


267 


Meanwhile  the  men  might  be  seen  here  and 
there  forming  little  circles  and  lashing  themselves 
into  fury  by  the  Derwish  exercises.  In  the 
evening  the  mosque  of  Abu  El  Hajaj  and  its  pre- 
cincts were  beautifully  illuminated,  and  feasting 
and  revelry,  dancing  and  torchlight  processions 
were  the  order  of  the  programme.  Many  were 
the  offerings  which  were  made  to  the  saint,  and 
many  the  sheep  that  were  sacrificed  and  eaten.* 

Thus  when  the  Israelites  made  their  Golden 
Apis  in  the  wilderness,  “ Aaron  made  proclama- 
tion and  said,  ‘ to-morrow  is  a feast  of  the  Lord,’ 
and  they  arose  up  early  in  the  morning  and 
offered  burnt-offerings  and  brought  peace-offer- 
ings, and  the  people  sat  down  to  eat  and  to 
drink  and  rose  up  to  play.” 

I am  ready  to  admit  even  to  the  most  skepti- 
cal Egyptologer  that  Israel  borrowed  that  part 
of  their  religion  of  the  desert  from  Egypt.  This 
introduces  a large  subject  which  in  these  days 
has  led  many  believing  souls  into  deep  waters. 
I shall  do  little  more  than  state  the^  question. 
Indeed  I am  not  qualified  to  do  much  more,  for 
modern  and  not  ancient  Egypt  has  been  my  study. 

* I use  the  word  “ sacrificed,’’  although  it  is  the  common 
opinion  that  the  Moslems  have  no  sacrifice,  because  the  Arabic 
has  no  other  word  to  describe  the  slaying  of  an  animal,  even 
for  the  table.  And  in  one  sense  it  is  a religioug  rite,  partak- 
ing of  the  nature  of  a sacrifice;  for  unless  the  name  of  God  be 
named  upon  the  animal  in  the  act  of  slaying,  its  flesh  is  pro- 
hibited. 


268 


Egypt’s  princes. 


In  visiting  the  ruined  temples  and  tombs  of 
Egypt,  nothing  at  first  so  strikes  the  Christian 
beholder  as  the  marked  similarity  between  the 
Egyptian  sculptures  and  many  of  the  rites  and 
ordinances  of  the  Jewish  religion.  We  see  the 
gods  usually  in  triplets  or  trinities — the  ark  often 
carried  in  solemn  procession,  with  the  accompa- 
nying symbols  of  the  deities,  with  sacrifices  and 
offerings  and  incense,  and  many  other  things 
which  Moses  must  either  have  borrowed  from 
the  Egyptians,  or  they  from  him,  or  from  some 
earlier  teachers  of  the  religion  of  the  Bible. 

Most  of  our  Egyptologers  take  the  former 
horn  of  the  dilemma  and  make  Moses  little  more 
than  an  Egyptian  plagiarist,  and  the  pure  crys- 
tal fountain  of  living  water  which  welled  up  at 
the  foot  of  Sinai,  they  have  pretended  by  many 
devious  ways  to  trace  up  for  its  source  to  the 
muddy  waters  of  the  Nile.  It  is  lamentable  that 
so  many  of  our  antiquaries  are  skeptics  or  open 
infidels,  and  one  cannot  stand  before  the  tem- 
ples and  gdumns  and  towering  obelisks  of  an- 
cient Egypt,  or  with  torch  in  hand  thread  the 
devious  mazes  of  the  rock-hewn  tombs  and 
behold  the  neatly-cut  and  gorgeously-painted 
myths  and  long  lines  of  mysterious  hieroglyphics 
which  everywhere  present  themselves  in  such 
lavish  profusion,  without  sighing  for  the  time 
when  some  Christian  scholar,  who  has  the  genius 
and  leisure,  shall  grasp  the  key  which  has  been 


SCRIPTURE  ALLUSIONS. 


269 


found,  and  devote  his  life  to  the  unlocking  of 
these  secrets  of  the  past. 

I wish  to  make  only  two  remarks  which  for 
the  present  should,  I think,  hold  our  faith  in 
God’s  word  firm  and  unwavering.  First,  the 
disagreement  which  we  behold  in  the  result  of 
the  labors  of  different  eminent  Egyptologers — 
the  sweeping  character  of  the  conclusions  which 
they  often  evidently  draw  from  very  narrow 
premises,  and  in  many  cases  their  manifest  ’pen- 
chant to  throw  disparagement  upon  Bible  history, 
should  make  us  cautious  in  implicitly  following 
them.  However  unlearned  one  may  be  in  anti- 
quarian lore,  he  cannot  look  into  a book  like 
that  of  Bunsen  without  feeling  that  he  is  not  a 
safe  guide.  As  far  as  we  can  follow  him,  he  is 
evidently  in  the  midst  of  a thick  German  fog, 
and  one  feels  a chilly  tremor  coming  over  him 
lest,  should  he  follow  him  too  far,  the  proverb 
of  the  blind  leading  the  blind  should  receive  its 
fulfillment. 

Secondly,  it  is  probable  (even  admitting, 
which  in  many  cases  we  are  not  yet  prepared  to 
do,  that  the  monuments  were  prior  to  the  time 
of  Moses,)  that  the  people  who  lived  before  Moses, 
and  even  the  antediluvians,  knew  much  more 
about  the  true  religion  than  the  mere  outline 
given  in  the  Pentateuch  would  lead  a superficial 
reader  to  conclude.  In  the  Old  Testament  we 
have  so  distant  a view  of  the  religion  of  God, 
23* 


270 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


which  was  revealed  to  Adam  and  his  immediate 
progeny,  that  only  the  bare  outlines,  the  skele- 
ton as  it  were,  of  the  picture  is  seen.  In  the 
Egyptian  sculpture  we  have  a part  of  that  pic- 
ture, filled  up  and  mixed  with  much  extraneous 
matter,  brought  nearer  to  view.  Let  us  not  suf- 
fer the  nearer -picture  to  hide  from  our  view  the 
more  distant  one.  And  how  much  more  of  that 
more  distant  one  would  we  see,  could  we  apply 
to  our  eye  the  telescope  of  a juster  interpreta- 
tion. Our  Saviour  has  given  us  a specimen  of 
this  when  He  so  logically  deduced  the  doctrine 
of  the  resurrection  of  the  dead  and  a future 
state  from  the  phrase,  “ I am  the  God  of  Abra- 
ham and  of  Isaac  afid  of  Jacob.”  Take  a speci- 
men of  the  application  of  each  of  the  two  fore- 
going remarks.  I met  at  Thebes  an  antiquary 
with  whom  one  could  not  long  be  without  ob- 
serving that  he  improved  every  opportunity  to 
throw  discredit  upon  the  Mosaic  narrative.  He 
made  a remark  in  the  course  of  the  conversation, 
that  he  had  no  doubt  the  ancient  Egyptian,  or 
language  of  the  hyeroglyphiCs,  was  the  original 
language  of  the  human  family.  I asked  him 
what  proof  he  had  of  this.  He  said  the  fact  that 
the  Egyptian  is  a very  polished  and  complex 
language,  that  it  therefore  must  have  been  first, 
and  that  men  afterwards  reduced  their  system 
of  language  to  greater  simplicity.  I told  him  that 
I would  draw  exactly  the  opposite  conclusion 


HIEROGLYPHICS. 


271 


from  his  premises.  I then  said  to  him,  “ Yon 
will  at  least  admit  that  such  a man  as  Adam 
lived,  and  Cain  and  Abel  and  Abraham  and  Ish- 
mael,  and  others  mentioned  in  sacred  history.” 
He  answered,  “ Oh  yes,  we  have  evidence  of  that 
in  records  independent  of  the  Bible.”  “Well,” 
I remarked,  “ these  names  are  all  significant,  and 
in  the  Hebrew  of  the  Mosaic  narrative  that  sig- 
nificance is  explained  in  words,  for  the  most  part 
verbs,  which  express  the  reason  of  the  name. 
Thus  we  know,  from  Arab  records  which  are 
independent  of  the  Bible,  that  such  a man  as  Ish- 
mael  existed.  Now  take  his  name,  ‘The  Lord 
said  thou  shalt  call  his  name  Ishmael,  because 
the  Lord  hath  ishmaeled  (heard)  thy  affliction.’ 
Now,  does  the  connection  here  existing  between 
the  name  and  the  verb  expressing  the  reason  of 
it,  exist  in  this  or  any  similar  case  in  the  old 
Egyptian  ?”  “No.”  “ Can  it  exist  in  any  trans- 
lation ?”  “No.”  “Then  the  Hebrew  is  not  a 

translation,  but  the  very  language  in  use  when 
he  was  named.  And  so  of  Adam,  Cain,  Abel, 
and  the  others,  and  if  you  can  find  your  old 
Egyptian  beyond  them  you  are  welcome  to  do 
so.”  This  man  had  spent  years  in  the  sfcudy  of 
antiquity,  and  has  the  reputation  of  being  an 
able  reader  of  hieroglyphics.  We  will  leave 
him  to  follow  their  tortuous  complexities,  while 
we  still  will  walk  in  the  plain  path  in  which  our 
fathers  trod. 


272 


Egypt’s  princes. 


Another,  a Christian  man,  who  had  read 
Hengstenberg  and  similar  works,  remarked  one 
day,  that  we  must  admit  Moses  borrowed  much 
from  the  Egyptians.  He  instanced  the  Cheru- 
bimic  figures  we  see  so  constantly  amidst  the 
sculptures.  I had  just  then  in  my  pocket  an 
antique  signet-ring,  on  which  was  engraved  the 
symbol  of  one  of  the  deities  between  the  wings 
of  a cherub.  Taking  it  out  I said  : “ Granting 
the  point,  which,  however,  it  would  be  difficult 
to  prove,  that  this  stone  was  carved  before 
Moses  lived,  you  would  then  conclude  that 
Moses  borrowed  from  it,  or  its  contemporaneous 
sisters  on  the  temples,  the  idea  of  the  Cherubim.” 
Certainly.”  “But,”  I said,  “ the  Cherubim  are 
much  older  than  Moses.  We  have  them  first  placed 
at  the  east  of  the  Garden  of  Eden  when  Adam 
was  expelled.  Have  any  of  the  antiquaries 
been  through  that  gate  and  found,  beyond, 
Egyptian  Cherubim  from  which  those  were 
copied  ? So  we  have,  in  this  bit  of  stone,  on 
the  admission  which  we  have  made,  that  it  is 
older  than  Moses,  or  even  on  the  supposition 
that  it  is  a copy  of  those  that  are  older,  a proof 
of  the  truth  of  the  narrative  of  Moses  older 
than  himself.  This  is  an  interesting  subject, 
but  we  must  return  to  Abu  El  Hajaj. 

Sabbath , the  24 th.  This  was  the  great  day  of  the 
feast.  We  had  service  in  English  in  one  of 
the  dahabiyehs,  but  it  was  impossible  to  get 


FESTAL  PROCESSION. 


273 


any  Arabs  together.  All  Luxor  seemed  crazy. 
The  crowd  in  front  and  around  the  house  was 
immense,  and  the  discharge  of  fire-arms,  with 
the  din  of  music  and  the  shouting  of  the  multi- 
tude, deafening.  We  went  down  to  Mr.  Riley’s 
boat  to  secure  a little  Sabbath  quiet ; had  it 
not  been  Sabbath,  the  ceremonies  of  that  day 
would  have  been  an  interesting  study.  The 
main  feature  in  the  procession  was  a boat 
rigged  up  as  a daliabiyeh  and  drawn  upon  a 
rude  sledge,  and  in  it  sat  Mustapha’s  little  daugh- 
ter, decked  out  most  gorgeously  in  flaming  silks, 
and  jewelry,  and  tinsel.  The  sight  of  it,  to- 
gether with  the  multitude  shouting,  and  singing, 
and  dancing,  and  beating  their  musical  instru- 
ments, recalled  similar  scenes  which  are  so  fre- 
quent in  the  Scriptures,  as  well  as  the  removals 
of  the  Ark  of  God,  first  to  the  house  of  Obede- 
dom  and  then  to  the  house  of  David  ; when 
David  and  all  Israel  played  before  God  with  all 
their  might,  and  with  singing,  and  with  harps, 
and  with  psalteries,  and  with  timbrels,  and 
with  cymbals,  and  with  trumpets,  and  when 
King  David  danced  and  played  before  the  Ark. 

They  also  had  in  the  procession  a camel  bear- 
ing a Mahmal,  with  a new  richly  embroidered 
silk  cover  for  the  tomb  of  the  shaikh,  similar  to 
the  one  which  is  annually  sent  with  such  cere- 
mony to  the  prophet’s  tomb  at  Mecca. 

We  were  this  evening  honored  with  the  arrival 


274 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


of  a distinguished  gijest.  Before  leaving  Cairc* 
I had  noticed,  riding  with  the  Viceroy  in  his 
carriage  of  state,  a tall,  dark-skinned  Arab.  This 
was  Ahmed  Abu  Sin,  the  shaikh  of  the  Bedawin 
in  the  region  of  Khartum,  at  the  junction  of 
the  White  and  Blue  Niles.  This  morning  a 
messenger  came  to  Mustapha,  post-haste,  inform- 
ing him  that  this  dignitary  was  on  his  way  up, 
and  would  stop  at  his  house  a few  days  to  recruit, 
as  he  was  sick.  This  put  Mustapha  in  a great 
fever  of  excitement  and  preparation  ; and  about 
sunset  the  dahabiyehs  containing  him  and  his 
suite  came.  He  was  sick  enough  with  a dan- 
gerous attack  of  inflammation  of  the  lungs. 
(Consumption  or  pulmonary  diseases  seldom 
occur  in  Egypt,  exce2>t  with  the  Central  Afri- 
cans, who  are  accustomed  to  a much  warmer 
climate.)  His  attendants  carried  him  up  .to 
Mustapha’s,  but  first  took  him  around  to  the 
Mosque  of  Abu  El  Hajaj,  that  at  his  tomb  the 
healing  power  of  this  great  patron  saint  of 
Luxor  might  be  sought.  Fortunately,  a Dr. 
Douglass  from  Canada  was  in  port,  and  he  came 
up  and  prescribed  for  the  old  man,  but  as  he 
left  the  next  morning,  I had  to  attend  to  the 
administering  of  the  medicine,  usually  not  an 
easy  matter  with  the  Arabs,  who  believe  more 
in  charms  and  saints  than  in  medicines.  The  old 
shaikh  was  a noble  looking  man,  and  he  had  in 
his  suite  a company  of  noble  men  who  seemed 


AN  INCIDENT. 


275 


devotedly  attached  to  hin>.  He  had  with  him  a 
mufti  who  seemed  his  favorite,  aud  who  was  a 
man  of  mind  and  intelligence.  He  had  purchased 
at  Cairo  a large  box  of  books,  to  which,  though 
not  without  a good  deal  of  Muslem  scruple,  he 
made  a few  additions  from  our  stock.  It  was 
for  some  time  difficult  to  believe  that  under  a 
black  skin,  and  from  two  thousand  miles  up  the 
Nile,  we  should  find  so  much  mental  polish.  lie 
always  lifted  his  master’s  head  when  I admin- 
istered the  medicine,  and  repeated  the  formu- 
lary, “ In  the  name  of  God,  and  the  Prophet, 
and  Abu  El  Hajaj.”  A good  example  this  for 
us.  It  would  be  far  better  for  us  were  medicine 
oftener  administered  and  taken  in  the  name  of 
God  and  in  dependence  upon  his  healing  power. 
“ The  Lord  killeth  and  maketli  alive  ; He  bring- 
etli  down  to  the  ground  and  bringeth  up  ; He 
maketli  sore,  and  bindeth  up  ; He  woundeth, 
and  his  hands  make  whole.” 

25  th  to  March,  2d.  This  week  I had  a high 
time  in  discussions  with  the  Muslems.  We  had 
two  muftis,  the  shaikh’s  and  our  own  old  friend 
Yuseph ; two  cadis  (judges),  the  one  of  Luxor 
and  another  from  Asseirut,  who  had  remained 
after  the  feast,  and  a number  of  other  learned 
dignitaries,  and  the  presence  of  our  sick  shaikh 
brought  a constant  crowd  around  us,  so  that  we 
did  not  lack  for  an  audience.  The  Muslem  rule 
is  never  to  enter  into  controversy  with  Chris- 


276 


Egypt’s  princes, 


tians,  and  they  will  seldom  allow  Christians  with 
impunity  to  presume  to  controvert  their  dog- 
mas. They  quote  for  this  a passage  of  the  Ko- 
ran, which  says,  “ Do  not  controvert  the  people 
of  the  book  (Christians  and  Jews)  except  with 
that  which  is  better which  they  usually  inter- 
pret as  prohibiting  all  controversy ; an  interpre- 
tation which  I think  is  founded  on  the  persuasion 
that  they  cannot  stand  their  ground  in  a fair 
controversy.  It  is  therefore  a delicate  matter 
to  engage  a company  of  bigoted  Muslems  in  a 
religious  discussion.  They  seem  to  feel  that  the 
only  proper  weapon  with  us,  if  they  only  dared 
use  it,  is  the  sword.  I led  them  into  the  discus- 
sion by  placing  myself  into  the  attitude  of  an 
inquirer.  I told  them  that  their  book  said  that 
“ the  religion  with  God  is  Islam,”  and  that  it 
consigned  us  unbelievers  to  the  torments  of  hell- 
fire,  boiling  water,  serpents  and  scorpions,  and 
like  terrible  things,  which,  as  my  soul  was  dear 
to  me,  I had  no  desire  of  encountering ; that  I 
was  ready  to  renounce  Christianity  and  embrace 
Islam,  if  they  would  only  convince  me  that  the 
former  is  false  and  the  latter  true,  and  that  I 
was  ready  to  hear  their  arguments,  and  was  sure 
they  had  sufficient  regard  for  my  eternal  inter- 
ests to  present  them.  They  could  only  say  that 
there  is  no  deity  but  Allah,  and  that  Mohammed 
was  his  prophet.  I told  them  that  1 already  be- 
lieved the  first  article  of  that  faith,  and  wished 


MUSLEM  DISCUSSION'S 


277 


proof  for  the  second.  They  continued  referring 
me  to  the  Koran,  and  said  that  I must  first  receive 
it  and  then  it  would  give  me  all  necessary  instruc- 
tion. But  I insisted  that  they  must  first  bring 
proof  that 'the  Koran  is  true  and  divine  before  I 
could  believe  its  teachings  and  be  profited  by 
them.  In  the  Koran,  Mohammed  constantly  tes- 
tifies to  himself ; but  we  must  first  settle  the 
previous  question,  Is  his  testimony  true  ? Is  it 
God  speaking  through  him,  or  the  testimony  of 
a mere  man  to  himself?  In  one  word,  was  Mo- 
hammed a true  prophet  ? To  this  they  could 
absolutely  say  nothing,  except  that  I must  first 
believe  the  book  and  then  I would  learn.  But 
I told  them,  why  should  I not  then  after  receiv- 
ing Islam  relinquish  it  again,  as  I had  received 
it,  as  soon  as  any  other  system  should  present 
itself  to  me  unsupported  like  it  by  proof?  This 
opened  the  whole  subject  of  evidences,  and  it 
was  fully  discussed,  and  then  we  proceeded  to 
other  points.  I love  controversy  with  Muslems. 
There  is  a certain  selfish  gratification  or  pride  in 
being  able  with  impunity  boldly  to  attack  them, 
while  the  native  Christians  around  dare  not  un- 
dertake it.  It  is  fun  to  maul  a man  with  one’s 
naked  fists,  who  has  a drawn  sword  in  his  hand, 
which  his  religion  commands  him  to  use,  and 
yet  he  dare  not  do  it.  It  seems  manlier  than  to 
fight  the  poor,  weak  defenseless  Copts,  who  usu- 
ally after  a few  passes  cry  for  quarter.  The 
24 


278 


Egypt’s  princes. 


difficulty,  however,  is  to  get  them  fairly  engaged. 
Besides  the  obstacle  which  I have  just  mention- 
ed, it  is  necessary  in  the  outset  to  allow  them  to 
preserve  the  dignity  and  prestige  which  is  theirs 
as  the  ruling  race,  until  the  blood  is  up,  and 
then  the  harder  one  strikes  the  better.  I have 
found  it  very  useful  in  breaking  the  first  reserve 
to  quote  freely  several  passages,  or  short  chap- 
ters from  the  Koran.  For  a Christian  to  do  this 
seems  so  strange  a thing  to  them  that  they  con- 
clude that  you  must  be  an  initiated  one,  and 
perhaps  a Muslem  in  disguise,  and  it  almost  in- 
variably makes  them  communicative. 

In  argument  they  are  much  more  acute  than 
solid,  and  I have  found  certain  small  arms  more 
effective  against  them  than  the  big  guns  of 
heavy  calibre  which  we  find  in  the  books  on  the 
Muslem  controversy. 

We  also  had  Kiddes,  from  Esneh,  with  us 
this  week.  Hearing  that  we  were  to  leave  the 
first  of  next  week,  he  saddled  his  ass,  and  put- 
ting on  also  a bag  of  dates  as  a gift  to  us  for 
the  journey,  he  came.  With  him  and  with  the 
three  or  four  from  Luxor,  who  seemed  to  be 
really  impressed  with  the  truth,  I had  many 
earnest  conferences  this  week,  and  strove  to 
have  them  established  in  the  faith. 

On  Saturday,  Abu  Sin,  who  was  now  much 
better  and  impatient  to  be  again  on  his  journey, 
left.  I fear,  as  is  usual  with  the  Arabs,  that 


KINDNESSES. 


279 


Abu  El  Hajaj  got  more  credit  for  liis  recovery 
than  Dr.  Douglass’  medicine  and  my  nursing. 
Still,  he  seemed  truly  grateful  for  the  attention 
he  had  received  during  his  illness.  He  said  he 
would  like  much  to  see  me  in  his  own  country, 
and  I doubt  not  but  that  should  I go  he  would 
extend  to  me  the  rites  of  Arab  hospitality  and 
the  protection  for  which  the  Bedouin  Arabs  are 
so  noted.  I afterwards  gave  a company  of  Ger- 
man missionaries,  who  left  Cairo  for  Abyssinia,  a 
letter  of  introduction  to  him,  and  they  wrote 
back  that  he  received  them  with  great  kindness, 
and  was  of  special  service  to  them  in  their  fur- 
ther journey. 

3(/.  To-day  Lord  Aberdeen  came.  He  had 
been  taken  in  tow  by  a government  steamer  at 
Assouan,  so  that  he  came  sooner  than  we  ex- 
pected. At  Assouan  he  hired  for  us  a dahabiyeb, 
in  which  we  were  to  go  down  to  Cairo  in  com- 
pany with  him,  selling  books  by  the  way.  Mr. 
Riley,  who  took  a deep  interest  in  our  work, 
Avas  also  very  kind  to  us,  and  offered  to  take  us 
down  in  his  boat,  although  it  was  pretty  strait 
for  three  passengers.  We  were  now  provided 
for,  but  yet  he  concluded  for  a time  at  least  to 
join  our  party,  and  Avell  it  was  he  did  so,  as  the 
sequel  will  sIioav. 

bth.  We  Avere  iioav  all  preparation  for  our  de- 
parture— “on  the  Aving  of  departure,”  as  the 
Arabs  Avould  express  it — and  to-day  the  daha- 


280 


EGYPT’S  PRINCES. 


biyeh  came  from  Assouan,  and  we  concluded  to 
start  the  next  morning.  The  dahabiyeh  was  a 
pretty  rough-looking  affair,  but  it  was  the  best 
Assouan  afforded,  and  we  were  accustomed  to 
rough  it.  I had  hired  a horse  to  take  down 
with  me  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  the  villages 
more  distant  from  the  Nile.  Past  experience 
had  taught  me,  that  though  the  spirit  was  willing 
the  flesh  was  too  weak  to  allow  me  to  walk  from 
village  to  village  under  the  burning  sun  of  Egypt 
with  the  simple  apostolical  equipage  of  staff  and 
scrip.  The  Apostles  did  not  have  to  carry  the 
scrip  full  of  big  Bibles. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


Qth.  This  morning  we  took  our  departure  from 
Luxor.  The  bishop  did  not  come  down  to  the 
ship  to  bid  us  farewell,  and  give  us  his  apostol- 
ical benediction,  and  his  “May  God  make  it 
easy  for  you,”  on  our  journey.  He  still  kept 
himself  closely  shut  up  in  his  room.  News  of 
the  patriarch’s  sudden  death  came  a few  days 
ago,  and  now  he  seemed  to  be  seized  with  a sud- 
den spasm  of  contrition,  on  account  of  his  long 
enmity  to  him,  and  now  they  said  he  put  all 
his  sulks  on  the  ground  of  mourning  for  him. 
I have  no  doubt,  however,  that  he  was  heartily 
glad  when  he  saw  our  backs,  and  came  out  of 
his  retirement.  The  new  wine  had  burst  the 
old  bottles.  “ What  communion  hath  light  with 
darkness  ?” 

Many  of  his  people,  however,  came  down  to 
say  their  partings,  and  pray  for  a prosperous 
journey  for  us  home,  and  for  a short  separation. 
Some  of  them  shed  tears,  and  with  none  of  them 
was  our  parting  more  affecting  than  with  our 
good  friend — nay,  our  son  in  the  Gospel  — 
Kiddes. 


24* 


(281) 


282 


Egypt’s  princes. 


At  length  the  parting  words  were  all  said, 
the  dahabivehs  loosed  from  the  shore,  and  Mr. 
Riley  and  I mounted  our  ponies.  On  mine  I 
had  a pair  of  saddle-hags  well  stuffed  with  books, 
as  we  purposed  taking  Zeinieh  and  ISTega  El  Kat- 
tab  in  our  way.  As  we  left,  a thundering  com- 
plimentary discharge  of  firearms  saluted  our  ears. 
Mustapha  led  off  with  his  cannon,  and  then  the 
guns  and  pistols  popped  from  different  parts  of 
the  town.  Our  men  from  the  boats  answered 
them,  and  thus  we  bid  adieu  to  Luxor  and  Abu 
El  Ilajaj. 

On  our  way  we  passed  once  more  through 
the  great  temple  of  Karnak,  and  took  a sad  part- 
ing glance  at  its  ruined  walls  and  towering  pro- 
pyla,  through  the  mute  but  elegant  sculptured 
images  and  scenes  of  which  we  had  so  often  held 
communion  with  the  spirits  of  the  misty  past, 
and  then  we  were  soon  at  Zeinieh.  Here  we 
sought  out  the  house  of  the  Christian  shaikh, 
and  we  wTere  soon  surrounded  by  a large  com- 
pany of  hearers.  A sick  child  was  brought  in 
that  we  might  prescribe  for  it,  whose  case  showed 
such  hard-hearted  neglect  on  the  part  of  the  pa- 
rents as  to  call  out  a homily  on  the  last  verse  of 
the  Old  Testament : “ And  he  shall  turn  the 
heart  of  the  fathers  to  the  children,  and  the  heart 
of  the  children  to  their  fathers,  lest  I come  and 
smite  the  earth  with  a curse.”  The  cruel  neg- 
lect of  parents  of  their  children  in  this  country, 


transubsta  Initiation. 


283 


especially  in  sickness,  is  heartrending  to  behold. 
At  Luxor,  one  day  I was  called  up  to  a house 
where  a woman  had  not  long  before  lost  a child 
with  the  small-pox,  and  she  had  carelessly  left  a 
second  child  upon  a cotton  bed  with  a lamp  also 
standing  upon  it,  which  was  upset,  and  the  poor 
child  was  literally  broiled  and  calcified  in  the 
burning  bed.  The  hardness  of  heart  which  the 
mother  manifested  at  the  harrowing  sight  was 
pitiable.  The  next  day  the  little  sufferer  was 
relieved  from  its  torments. 

Other  subjects  of  discussion  then  came  up, 
and  in  the  midst  of  them  what  was  our  surprise 
on  beholding  Ividdes  enter.  Unable  yet  to  give 
us  up,  he  had  followed  on  his  donkey.  One  of 
those  present  was  keen  for  controversy.  lie 
brought  up  various  topics,  and  among  them 
transubstantiation.  The  Copts  can  hardly  be 
said  to  have  a settled  faith  on  this  subject.  It  is 
not  a dogma  of  the  church,  and  there  is  one  pas- 
sage in  their  favorite  Chrysostom  which  we  can 
always  quote  to  them,  and  to  which  they  always 
assent:  “That  as  the  Jewish  sacrifices  were 
types  of  Christ,  so  the  Lord’s  Supper  is  a retro- 
spective typ«?.”  Still  they  have  in  their  church 
service  some  expressions  which  seem  to  favor 
the  dogma ; and  then  many  have  taken  it  up 
from  Catholic  books  which  the  Romish  church 
has  palmed  off  on  them,  and  which  they  receive 
as  orthodox  without  knowing  the  source  whence 


284 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


they  came.  The  general  faith  of  the  church  is 
perhaps  nearer  the  Consubstantiation  of  Luther 
than  either  our  view  or  the  Romish  one.  In  the 
midst  of  the  discussion  the  Muslem  shaikh  of  the 
village  had  dropped  in ; and,  after  listening  for 
some  time  with  great  interest,  he  broke  in  with 
the  exclamation,  “That  man  speaks  the  truth,” 
when  he  joined  in  the  discussion  very  warmly 
on  my  side,  until  Kiddes,  his  eyes  flaming  with 
rage,  jumped  up  and  broke  out  upon  him  with, 
“ What  business  have  you,  who  are  a Muslem, 
with  our  religion  ? Away  with  you.  This  con- 
versation concerns  only  ourselves.”  The  Mus- 
lem answered  as  warmly,  and  for  a time  we  all 
had  ado  enough  to  keep  them  apart.  Kiddes 
had  understood  the  Muslem  as  only  wishing  to 
revile  and  cast  reproach  upon  our  religion ; but 
when  the  people  of  the  village  assured  him  that 
this  was  not  so,  but  that  the  Muslem  had  long 
been  an  earnest  reader  of  our  Scriptures,  and 
that  he  was  always  talking  to  them  in  the  same 
strain  in  which  I had  done  about  then-  supersti- 
tions, Kiddes  cooled  down,  and  then  stepped  up 
to  our  newly-found  Muslem  Protestant  and  asked 
his  pardon  and  kissed  his  head,  and*all  was  calm 
again. 

When  our  discussion  was  finished,  the  Mus- 
lem warmly  invited  us  to  his  house ; and  feeling 
that  we  could  not  decline,  Kiddes  and  Mr.  R. 
and  I went  down,  and  he  treated  us  to  a cup  of 


AT  NEGADEH. 


285 


coffee,  by  which  time  a number  of  the  Christians 
had  also  come,  and  so  we  had  another  talk,  when 
we  bade  him  farewell,  and  Kiddes  also,  a second 
time,  and  proceeded  on  our  journey. 

In  less  than  half  an  hour  we  reached  Nega  El 
Kattab,  where  we  found  a kummus,  or  arch- 
priest, who  bore  the  strange  name  of  Salaf.  He 
seemed  a simple-minded  man,  and  sat  down  with 
us  in  the  street ; but  we  had  not  talked  long 
before  on  came  Kiddes  jogging  on  his  diminu- 
tive donkey.  The  kummus  proved  to  be  from 
Esneh,  and  an  old  friend  of  hk  ; so  he  helped  us 
on  a great  deal  in  our  short  interview.  Then  we 
had  to  have  a third  parting  scene.  I did  not 
wish  a succession  of  them  all  the  way  to  Cairo, 
and  so  I said,  “ Kiddes,  it  is  enough ; we  must 
now  gallop  to  our  boat,  and  you  must  return. 
God  be  with  you.”  We  again  embraced,  when 
we  sprang  upon  our  horses  and  a long  gallop, 
or  rather  steeple  chase,  of  fifteen  miles  we  had 
of  it  over  water-courses,  shadoofs,  and  plowed 
ground,  and  it  was  far  in  the  evening  before  we 
reached  the  boats,  which  had  stopped  opposite 
Negadeh  to  await  us.  But  oh,  what  a night  we 
spent ! Bugs ! bugs  ! bugs ! crawling  out  of 
every  crack  and  crevice,  marching  over  the  set- 
tees in  squadrons,  dropping  from  the  roof ; the 
old  boat  seemed  alive,  and  on  every  side  they 
came  up  in  troops,  apparently  determined  to 
dispute  possession  with  us.  But  I will  leave  the 


286 


EGYPTS  PRINCES. 


subject,  as  Oriental  travelers  have  done  it  ample 
justice.  I can  occasionally  spend  a sleepless 
night  under  such  circumstances  very  good-hu- 
moredly ; but  to  have  such  an  one  after  that 
day’s  labor  was  too  bad. 

7 th.  There  is  here  (Negadeh)  a very  large 
Coptic  community ; but  Lord  Aberdeen  on  his 
late  visit  had  supplied  them  with  books,  so  that 
we  did  not  now  meet  a great  demand.  We  vis- 
ited the  school  which  is  in  connection  with  the 
church,  which  is  the  largest  in  Upper  Egypt 
and  the  only  one  at  which  females  also  attend. 
They  told  us  that  the  number  of  pupils  was 
over  three  hundred,  but  there  was  not  nearly  so 
many  present.  There  is  here  also  a bishop,  and 
he  and  our  old  friend  of  Luxor  keep  up  a chronic 
war,  the  “ casus  belli”  being  that  he  (of  Luxor) 
managed  a few  years  ago,  by  the  aid  of  the 
Governor  of  Ghinneh,  to  take  away  from  him 
the  two  -villages  on  the  other  side  of  the  Nile 
and  annex  them  to  his  own  bishopric.  Had  I 
called  on  him  he  would  probably  have  treated 
me  to  a sound  berating  of  his  neighbor ; but 
though  this  might  have  been  grateful  to  some  of 
my  feelings,  I preferred  on  the  whole  to  forego 
the  pleasure. 

There  is  here  a Catholic  convent  and  church, 
but  the  people  told  me  that  but  one  man  with 
his  family  had  been  perverted. 

We  called  on  the  Christian  shaikh,  where  we 


A NOBLE  MAN. 


28T 


found  YakV)b,  our  old  friend  the  scribe  of  the 
government  shorneh  at  Luxor,  who  was  formerly 
so  attentive  a listener,  but  whom  I had  missed 
after  our  return  from  Esneh.  He  seemed  very 
glad  to  see  me,  and  when  we  left  he  wept  like  a 
child. 

In  the  afternoon  I galloped  over  to  Ghous, 
three  or  four  miles  from  the  river  on  the  eastern 
side;  made  the  acquaintance  of  Fam  Stephanus, 
whom  Makhiel  had  already  so  highly  commended. 
He  seems,  indeed,  as  he  has  the  reputation  of  be- 
ing, the  ablest  man  in  Scriptural  knowledge  in 
all  Upper  Egypt,  and  he  has  besides  a great  deal 
of  general  information.  He  sent  for  the  priests, 
two  young  men  who  came,  together  with  a large 
company  of  the  neighbors.  We  spent  a delight- 
ful two  hours,  after  which  we  had  supper  and  I 
returned  to  the  boat.  The  interview  with  this 
noble  man  made  a deep  impression  on  my  mind. 
He  and  a number  of  others  whom  I have  met  in 
Upper  Egypt  are  examples  of  what  the  Bible 
alone,  without  the  living  teacher,  can  do  in  rais- 
ing up  intelligent,  devoted  Christians.  On  tho 
question  of  Protestantism  he  was  (or  rather  he 
seemed  simply  to  play)  non-committal.  He  in- 
troduced into  his  conversation  several  remarks, 
in  praise  of  the  old  apostolical  orthodox  Coptic 
church,  in  a style  which  left  me  in  doubt  whether 
the  serious,  playful,  or  ironical  was  the  prompting 
spirit.  On  afterwards  thinking  them  over,  I con- 


238 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


eluded  that  they  were  intended  to  test  my  senti- 
ments and  draw  me  out.  I think  he  wished  to 
ascertain  whether,  with  our  orthodoxy  in  senti- 
ment, we  were  as  proselyting  in  spirit  as  the 
Catholics  are.  N ew  converts  from  a corrupt  sys- 
tem usually  have  too  much  of  this  spirit,  and  per- 
haps Makhiel  had  exhibited  it  in  his  late  inter- 
view with  him.  If  this  was  his  object  wTith  me, 
he  signally  failed,  for  with  such  men  I make  it  a 
principle  to  adhere  to  a simple  statement  of 
truth. 

Next  to  the  study  of  the  Bible,  he  seemed  to 
have  made  ancient  church  history  a speciality, 
and  was  prepared  to  give  proofs  from  the  fathers 
and  the  councils  that  the  present  corruptions 
of  the  Coptic  church  are  mostly  comparatively 
modern  inventions — that  they  did  not  belong  to 
their  ancient  doctrine  or  practice.  He  had  also 
deeply  studied  what  in  modern  times  is  called 
the  Calvinistic  controversy,  and  was  sound, 
though  not  clear,  in  the  statement  of  all  its  parts. 
I have  since  made  him  two  visits,  and  find  him 
improving  on  acquaintance.  His  at  first  appa-! 
rent  shyness  of  Protestantism  has  all  vanished, 
and  the  last  time  I was  there  the  priest  came  to 
me  with  a pitiful  complaint  that  he  no  longer  at- 
tended the  church.  For  this  I administered  to 
him  a not  very  cutting  reproof ; when  he  an- 
swered me  and  the  priest  that  he  had  laid  down 
for  him  the  condition  upon  which  he  would  at- 


THE  EGYPTIAN  LUTHER. 


289 


tend  church,  viz.,  that  the  Coptic  mummery 
should  be  removed  from  it  and  its  services  made 
edifying.  To  this  the  priest  retorted  that  lie 
had  agreed  to  do  so,  in  case  he  would  set  apart 
a portion  of  time  each  day  to  giving  him  instruc- 
tion in  the  Scriptures,*  so  that  he  might  become 
qualified  properly  to  discharge  his  duties.  To 
this  the  other  responded  that  he  would  be  happy 
to  do  so  but  his  other  duties  prevented ; when 
both  joined  in  an  earnest  request  that  I would 
remain  and  instruct  the  priests,  and  in  the  mean- 
time officiate  in  the  church.  Truly  there  seems 
an  open  door. 

8th.  To-day  I went  to  Koft,  the  ancient  Coptos, 
from  which  the  Copts,  and  indeed  the  land  of 
Egypt,  derived  their  name.  On  the  way  I called 
at  two  other  villages  and  at  both  preached  to 
large  companies,  mostly  Muslems. 

I went  to  Koft  to  see  a young  man  named 
Sidere,  whose  story  is  a most  romantic  one.  This 
Egyptian  Luther,  seven  months  ago,  took  it  into 
his  head  to  commence  reformer,  and  he  under- 
took it  in  a truly  Egyptian  manner.  He  went 
to  Ghinneh,  and  purchasing  a sheet  of  stamped 
paper,  such  as  the  law  requires  for  all  petitions 
and  legal  documents,  he  wrote  upon  it  in  sub  • 
stance  as  follows,  addressing  it  to  Fadil  Pasha. 
After  the  usual  complimentary  introduction,  he 
proceeded,  “ In  passing  through  the  streets  of 
Ghinneh  to-day,  I heard  a man,  (the  Muezzin  or 
25 


290 


Egypt’s  pbinces. 


crier  for  prayer),  crying  from  a minaret,  and  in 
his  cry  he  used  the  expression  ‘ God  and  his 
angels  pray  for  the  prophet.’  Now  I wisli  to 
ask,  with  all  respect,  did  this  man  use  these 
words  on  his  own  authority  or  by  command  ? 
If  on  his  own  authority,  I would  suggest  that 
he  should  be  called  to  account  for  the  utterance 
of  such  blasphemy.  If  by  command  he  used 
those  words,  I wish  to  ask  how  can  God  and  his 
angels  be  represented  as  praying  for  the  prophet 
who  was  a mere  creature,  and  is  now  dead,  and 
if  they  do  so,  to  what  higher  God  do  they 
pray?” 

He  followed  this  argument  by  a brief  state- 
ment of  his  faith  in  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  the 
Son  of  God,  the  last  of  the  prophets,  who  be- 
came man  by  being  born  of  the  Virgin  Mary, 
and  who  alone  is  able  to  save  us  from  our  sins, 
and  that  in  him  alone  should  be  our  faith  and 
trust. 

To  this  document  he  affixed  his  seal,  and  then 
sent  it  in  to  Fadil  Pasha.  What  followed  I will 
^relate  after  an  explanatory  remark.  The  ex- 
pression “ God  and  his  angels  pray  for  the 
prophet,”  is  part  of  the.regu.Ar  call  to  prayer  of 
the  Muezzin,  and  is  also  frequently  in  the  mouths 
and  religious  services  of  the  Muslems,  but  they  do 
not  generally  understand  the  signification  in  the 
expression  of  the  words  “pray  for,”  and  it  is, 
therefore,  little  wonder  that  Sidere  (a  Copt)  did 


PUNISHMENT. 


291 


not  understand  it.  The  word  (yassallun),  the  doc- 
tors say,  means,  when  applied  to  men,  “ to  pray 
when  applied  to  angels,  “ to  intercede  for,”  and 
when  applied  to  God,  “ to  bless.”  It  has  these 
meanings  in  the  old  Arabic,  in  which  the  phrase 
was  first  invented  and  used.  It  is  now  com- 
monly used  only  in  the  first  sense,  and,  therefore, 
Sidere’s  whole  argument  was  based  upon  a mis- 
conception. 

When  the  Pasha  read  this  strange  document, 
he  ordered  our  hero  to  be  cast  into  prison,  and 
then  called  together  the  Shaikhs  El-Islam,  who, 
in  Ghinneh,  are  neither  few,  nor  wanting  in 
bigotry,  as  this  is  one  of  the  stations  of  the  holy 
pilgrimage.  These  disagreed  among  themselves 
as  to  the  punishment  which  should  be  inflicted 
upon  the  young  man.  It  is  said  that  some  of 
them  counseled  his  immediate  execution,  but 
others  feared  to  take  the  responsibility  of  so  ex- 
treme a measure,  and  wished  to  have  the  case 
referred  to  Cairo.  This  Avas  finally  decided 
upon,  and  at  the  end  of  two  Aveeks  Sidere  Avas 
taken  from  prison,  a Avooden  collar  put  upon  his 
neck,  and  he  Avas  sent  to  Cairo  afoot,  under  a 
guard  of  soldiers,  a distance  of  OA'er  three  hun- 
dred miles.  When  he  reached  the  capital,  the 
case  was  referred  to  the  Shaikhs  of  the  Mosque 
El  Azhar  which  Mosque  has  connected  with  it 
the  greatest  university  of  Moslem  learning  in  the 
world,  and  it  is  the  province  of  its  Shaikhs  to  de- 


292 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


cide  all  knotty  points  of  Mohammedan  law  and 
jurisprudence.  I know  not  what  may  have  been 
the  case  with  the  shaikhs  of  Ghinneh,  but  these 
shaikhs,  at  least,  were  not  ignorant  of  the  true 
interpretation  of  the  above  phrase ; yet  they 
neither  condescended  to  use  it  to  answer  Sidere’s 
argument,  nor  to  mitigate  his  crime,  but  gave 
judgment  that  he  should  be  executed  for  pre- 
suming to  make  so  impudent  and  shameless  an 
attack  on  the  religion  of  Islam.  But,  Said  Pasha, 
the  Viceroy,  influenced  by  his  notorious  infidelity, 
and  perhaps,  also,  in  a measure  by  a salutary  fear 
of  what  the  Christian  powers  might  say,  should 
they  become  aware  of  the  fact  of  such  an  execu- 
tion, interposed  and  said  that  the  young  man 
should  not  be  killed,  that  the  time  for  killing  men 
on  account  of  religion  was  past,  and  that  they 
must  reconsider  their  “ fetweh,”  and  bring  in 
judgment  that  the  young  man  was  mad.  This 
they  did,  and  the  young  man  was  sentenced  to  the 
mad-house,  and  forthwith  carried  away  thither, 
though  protesting  all  the  time  that  he  was  not 
mad ; of  which  fact  he  strove  to  convince  them  by 
saying,  (accompanying  the  words  with  corre- 
sponding gestures,)  “There  is  the  north,  and  there 
is  the  south ; there  is  the  east,  and  there  is  the 
west.  I am  here  in  my  sane  mind  in  your  midst ; 
I am  not  crazy.”  lie  spent  four  months  in  the 
insane  asylum,  and  then,  probably  from  a fear 
that  his  case  might  come  to  the  ears  of  the  Con- 


RELEASE. 


293 


snls,  if  be  were  not  removed  from  Cairo,  bis  sen- 
tence was  commuted  to  a year  in  tbe  galleys,  in 
Ghinneh,  and  be  was  sent  back  there  and  set  at 
hard  work.  But  not  long  after,  on  occasion  of 
tbe  circumcision  of  Tousoon  Pasha,  tbe  little  sou 
of  the  Viceroy,  a free  pardon  was  granted  to  all 
tbe  criminals  in  Egypt,  and  he  was  free. 

This  is  the  story  as  I bad  it  from  bis  own  lips. 
I bad  several  times  before  beard  it,  but  feared  it 
might  have  been  greatly  magnified  by  the  orien- 
tal love  of  tbe  exaggerated  and  romantic ; but  I 
found  only  slight  variations.  I wished  also  to 
see  him  to  ascertain  if  be  was  indeed  an  Egyp- 
tian Luther,  or  only  a hair-brained  youth,  who 
had  done  this  thing  in  mere  wantonness.  I found 
• him  a modest,  unassuming  youth,  about  twenty- 
two  years  of  age,  loth  to  tell  his  story,  and, 
though  a grain  wiser  from  the  experience  he  had 
had,  yet  not  apparently  feeling  that  he  had  either 
done  or  suffered  too  much  for  his  religion.  He 
was  slender  in  form,  and  pale,  and  with  a re- 
markably sweet  eye  and  expression  of  counte- 
nance. I had  pictured  him  to  myself  a Luther 
or  a scapegrace.  Lie  stood  before  me  a Joseph 
in  Egypt-  I stopped  at  the  house  of  a friend  of 
his,  who,  before  I left,  spread  a nice  table.  It 
was  Friday,  and  of  course  fast-day  with  the 
Copts.  My  host  put  his  hand  with  me  in  the 
dish  of  eggs,  fried  in  butter,  but  Sidere  would 
eat  nothing,  not  even  the  bread  and  vegetables 
25* 


294 


Egypt’s  prjNCEs. 


which  were  lawful.  Like  the  more  religious 
Copts,  he  was  literally  fasting  till  sunset.  I 
recommended  to  him  one  of  our  hooks  “ on  fas- 
ting and  prayer,”  which  he  purchased,  together 
with  a testament,  and  I gave  him  the  Memoir  of 
Asaad  Es  Shidiak,  the  proto-martyr  of  Protes- 
tantism in  Syria.  Avoiding  reference  to  the  cor- 
ruptions in  doctrine  and  ecclesiastical  practice  in 
the  Coptic  church,  I pointed  him  to  the  moral 
desolation  which  on  every  hand  he  saw  within 
her  pale,  and  advised  him,  henceforth  to  bend 
his  efforts  to  the  reform  of  these,  and  for  the 
present  to  leave  the  Muslems  to  us  and  God. 

The  man  at  whose  house  I supped,  was  also  a 
noble  specimen  of  a man,  and  he  had  a family  of 
the  finest  and  apparently  best-trained  children  I* 
have  seen  in  Egypt.  One  little  fellow,  only  six 
or  seven  years  of  age,  took  up  a book  on  the  du- 
ties of  children,  which  was  far  above  his  years, 
and  spent  most  of  the  time  that  we  were  talking 
in  reading  it,  evidently  with  great  interest. 

Returning  to  the  river,  I saw  a steamer  and 
two  extra  dahabiyehs  moored  in  the  midst  of 
our  little  fleet.  Lord  Aberdeen  had  all  winter 
been  expecting  his  brother  from  England.  The 
English  Consul  General  had  agreed,  when  he 
came,  to  ask  the  Viceroy  for  a steamer  to  take 
him  up,  and  as  the  Nile  was  becoming  very 
low,  Lord  Aberdeen  now  obtained  permission  to 
retain  the  steamer  to  tow  the  big  dahabiyeh 


PERPLEXITY. 


295 


down  to  Cairo.  But  his  brother’s  coming  had 
been  so  long  delayed  that  he  had  at  length  given 
him  up.  Besides  the  steamer,  he  had  also  taken 
a dahabiyeh  at  Cairo,  which  he  occupied,  while 

a Mr.  R , who  is  one  of  our  first  English 

merchants  in  Alexandria,  had  taken  the  op- 
portunity for  a hasty  visit,  with  his  wife,  to' 
Thebes,  and  occupied  the  steamer.  Another 
belated  dahabiyeh  of  travelers  had  also  hitched 
on  in  their  train.  Here  was  a pretty  kettle  of 
fish.  Five  dahabiyehs  and  a steamer,  each  one 
with  a party  on  board,  and  each  party  with  its 
own  ends,  plans  and  idiosyncracies,  and  all  to  be 
harmoniously  reconciled.  Lord  Aberdeen  must 
have  the  steamer  to  take  him  slowly  down  to 
Cairo,  which  he  wished  to  reach  by  the  middle 
of  April,  and  we  must  remain  with  him  to  as- 
sist in  the  book  distributing  business,  we  and 
Mr.  Riley  not  wishing  to  be  longer  than  the 

end  of  March  at  furthest.  Mr.  R , who  was 

in  the  steamer,  wished  a hasty  glance  at  Thebes, 
and  then  back  to  his  ledgers,  and  having  no  pre- 
vious knowledge  of  the  arrangement  to  detain 
the  steamer.  Some  wished  to  go  to  Edfou,U 
some  to  Assouan,  etc.  I passed  and  re-passed 
from  boat  to  boat,  making  myself  oil  upon 
the  troubled  waters,  and  emery  between  the 
rough  surfaces,  until  I had  mastered  the  con- 
ditions of  the  problem,  and  then  his  Lordship  ‘ 
and  I sat  down  and  solved  it,  I am  happy  to 


296 


Egypt’s  princes. 


say,  much  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  parties,  as 
follows : the  steamer  to  take  up  the  three  daha- 
biyehs,  viz.,  the  two  already  with  her,  and  Mr. 
Riley’s,  to  Luxor,  and  Mr.  Riley  then  to  remove 
himself  and  etfects  to  her,  and  relinquish  his  da- 

habiyeh  to  Mr.  R and  then  leaving  the  three 

dahabiyehs  to  take  care  of  themselves,  return  on 
Monday,  and  overtake  us  at  Gliinneh,  where  we 
relinquish  our  living  boat  to  its  multitudinous 
occupants,  and  also  go  into  the  steamer,  and 
thus  proceed  on  our  journey  towing  the  big 
dahabiyeh.  This  involved  our  sleeping,  or 
rather  staying,  another  night  in  the  Assouan 
boat.  Last  night  Mr.  Riley  kindly  gave  us 
lodgings  in  his,  and  to  night  we  might  have  re- 
mained in  the  big  one,  but  for  one  night’s  rest 
we  did  not  wish  to  inform  his  Lordship  that  his 
kindness  in  bringing  us  a boat  from  Assouan 
had  missed  of  its  mark.  We  intended,  at 
Ghinneh,  to  break  the  news,  and  make  some  new 
arrangement ; but  the  coming  of  the  steamer 
had  made  this  unnecessary.  But  our  little  in- 
convenience was  nothing  compared  with  the 
disinterested  and  noble  sacrifice  which  Mr. 
Riley  made  in  giving  up  his  dahabiyeh.  He 
was  an  invalid,  and  it  was  a great  sacrifice  to 
leave  his  neat  boat,  which,  in  all  its  arrange- 
ments, was  better  appointed  than  any  one  I had 
seen  on  the  Nile,  and  go  into  the  fumes,  and 
smoke,  and  clatter  of  a steamer ; and  besides 


IBRAHIM. 


297 


give  up  his  independence  and  liberty,  and  he 
subject  to  our  movements.  But  he  made  the 
sacrifice,  and  this  was  the  keystone  which  held 
our  little  arch  of  arrangements.  But  for  this, 

Mr.  R would  have  been  forced  to  take  our 

boat,  which,  with  his  young  wife,  would,  I fear, 
have  caused  a sad  eclipse  of  their  honey-moon. 

9th.  This  morning  our  first  work  was  to  pitch 
our  tents,  and  remove  ourselves  and  effects  to 
them,  so  that  we  might  have  a couple  days’ 
thorough  airing  before  the  coming  of  the  steamer. 
Then  Lord  Aberdeen  paid  our  Reis  a month’s 
wages  for  the  boat,  and  we  sent  him  back  to  As- 
souan, “ with  our  peace.” 

1C )tli. — Sabbath.  This  forenoon  Ibrahim  came 
down  to  the  tent,  and  we  had  a long  and  intensely 
interesting  conversation  with  him.  This  is  a 
very  honest,  upright  young  man,  and  earnest  in 
his  religious  convictions,  but  still  clings  to  some 
of  the  superstitions  of  the  church,  and  this  is 
not  to  be  Avondered  at,  as  his  father  is  a priest. 

11  th  and  12 th.  I spent  these  two  days  mostly 
with  Ibrahim,  in  his  shop,  selling  books  and 
coiwersing  with  those  Avho  came  to  purchase.  I 
was  very  happy  to  find  that  he  had  hoav  con- 
cluded to  remain  in  Ghinneh,  and  was  willing 
to  take  books  back  again  into  his  shop,  and 
continue  the  business,  and  that  our  Bishop’s  late 
sojourn  in  Ghinneh  had  not  so  set  the  people 
against  us  that  they  would  not  buy  books.  In- 


298 


Egypt’s  princes. 


deed,  this  love  for  books  among  the  Copts,  seems 
to  be  an  appetite  which  grows  sharp  by  feeding. 
This  is  the  fourth  book-selling  visit  Ghinneh  has 
received  this  winter,  viz. : Brother  McCague  first, 
then  I,  then  Lord  Aberdeen,  and  now  we  again, 
and  each  time  they  seem  to  take  more  books 
than  the  time  previous.  This  time  we  have 
sold  fifteen  hundred  piastres,  or  about  fifty  dol- 
lars worth.  Still,  a few  of  the  black-turbaned 
aristocracy  turned  their  faces  the  other  way  when 
they  passed  the  shop.  Among  these  was  one, 
who,  in  passing,  stopped,  and  looking  very  sar- 
castically over  the  shoulders  of  the  crowd  which 
surrounded  us,  said  to  Ibrahim,  “ What  are  you 
doing  here  ?”  Ibrahim’s  color  changed  ; and 
then,  quietly,  but  very  decidedly,  he  answered, 
“ I am  selling  books  ; what  of  it  ?” 

When  he  left,  I asked  who  that  man  was,  and 
he  informed  me  that  he  was  his  partner  in  busi- 
ness, or  rather,  the  man  who  furnished  him  with 
the  capital  for  his  stock  in  trade.  This  was  a 
foreboding  of  trouble  for  Ibrahim,  but  still  be- 
fore we  left  he  took  from  us  a new  stock  of 
books  to  sell  in  his  shop,  and  although  we  give 
him  twenty  per  cent,  on  his  sales,  it  is  evident 
that  love  for  the  book  is  his  chief  motive  in  en- 
gaging in  the  bv^iness. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


1 %tli.  We  are  now  ready  for  a new  start.  Mr.* 
Riley  had  returned  from  Thebes  in  the  steamer, 
and  we  had  also  moved  into  her.  As  we  had 
our  own  servant  Abdallah  with  us,  we  might 
have  kept  up  our  own  establishment,  but  Mr.  R. 
insisted  on  our  considering  ourselves  his  guests, 
and  so  besides  Monsur  and  Makhiel,  Abdallah 
was  also  left  at  liberty  for  the  book-selling  work. 
These  three  attended  to  the  villages  on  the 
banks  of  the  river,  while  I,  with  the  horse  and 
saddle  bags,  visited  those  more  distant.  Mr.  R. 
had  also  brought  with  him  two  of  his  favorite 
sailors  from  the  dahabiyeh,  one  of  whom  as- 
sisted his  cook  as  scullion,  and  the  other  carried 
books  for  us.  Ilis  dragoman  was  Giovanni  Zarb. 
A sense  of  gratitude  for  the  abundant  manner  in 
which  he  catered  to  our  wants,  makes  it  duty 
for  me  to  mention  him.  I have  seen  and  known  a 
great  deal  of  dragomen  and  their  doings.  They 
are  an  able  and  astute  class  of  men,  which  is 
proved  by  the  fact  that,  almost  invariably,  parties 
will  be  found  coming  home  from  the  trip  saying 
that  “Dragomen,  as  a class,  are  the  greatest 
scoundrels  iu  the  world,  but  our  dragoman  is  an 

(299) 


300 


Egypt’s  princes. 


exception,”  while  a very  slight  peep  of  an  eye, 
experienced  in  Egyptian  affairs,  behind  the  cur- 
tain, will  suffice  to  show  that  their  man  should 
not  be  made  an  exception.  But  Giovanni  is  an 
exception — an  exception  to  all  the  Maltese 
I ever  met,  who  are  most  bigoted  Catholics, 
for  he  reads  diligently  his  Italian  Bible,  and 
says  he  will  do  so  in  spite  of  Pio  Nono  and  all 
his  ruffian  priests ; and  an  exception  to  the 
dragomen  for  he  is  an  honest  and  industrious 
man.  Mr.  R’s  style  and  cuisine,  were,  through- 
out the  winter,  the  envy  of  the  travellers,  though 
his  expenses  were  much  less  than  theirs  ; and  he 
had  besides,  the  luxury  of  a dahabiyeh  all  to 
himself,  and  thus  avoided  the  danger  of  jarring 
and  discord,  which  often  arise  in  parties  com- 
posed of  uncongenial  material,  hastily  conglome- 
rated at  Cairo.  But  this  was  Mr.  R.’s  second 
winter  on  the  Nile,  and  in  his  former  visit  he  had 
learned  a thing  or  two. 

And  now  the  books  are  all  arranged,  the  col- 
porteuring  bags  made,  the  big  dahabiyeh  is 
fastened  to  our  stern  by  a stout  long  cable  ; and 
again,  in  her  wake,  comes  a little  native  b oat, 
whose  occupants  have  just  tumbled  in,  viz. : a 
mare,  (on  which  his  Lordship  daily  made  a short 
excursion,)  with  her  colt ; an  ass,  (kept  for  her 
milk,)  with  her  foal ; a goat,  (also  for  the  same 
purpose;)  a cage  of  chickens;  and  a Nubian, 
(their  curator,)  sitting  in  the  midst  of  them, 


MOVING. 


301 


black  as  Erebus,  but  smiling  as  an  Egyptian  day. 
This  Lady  Aberdeen  called  her  “ happy  family 
and  over  all,  for  we  are  the  Viceroy’s  guests, 
was  the  crescent  waving  in  its  field  of  red. 
Never  did  it  wave  over  nobler  work,  though  I 
fear  that  we  who  were  engaged  in  it,  were  not 
always  actuated  by  as  firm  a faith  and  trust  in  a 
present  God,  as  that  implied  in  the  war  cry, 
“Allah  Akbar,”(God  is  most  great, )with  which, 
under  it,  the  Muslem  warrior  has  so  often  hurled 
himself  upon  his  own  and  his  God’s  enemies. 
When  the  time  for  starting  each  day  came,  the 
column  of  smoke  would  ascend  for  two  hours, 
to  the  clear  sky,  and  then  the  stragglers  were 
called  in,  the  “ happy  family”  scrambled  into 
their  boat,  the  piles  were  drawn,  and  cables 
thrown  aboard,  and  it  was  puff,  puff,  whist, 
whist,  and  we  were  under  way,  the  wonder  and 
puzzle  of  the  gazing  crowds  on  the  shore.  Then, 
when  we  came  opposite  the  village  at  which  we 
wished  to  stop,  it  was  a long  circuit  with  this 
long  train,  so  that  we  might  come  to  the  shore 
against  the  current,  and  not  be  driven  by  it  all 
aheap,  the  dahabiyeli  upon  the  steamer,  and 
the  happy  family  upon  us  both,  and  then  with 
our  Turkish  captain  and  crew,  instructed  by 
English  engineers,  the  word  was  “ ease  ’er,  ease 
’er ; ’alfa  speed,  ’alfa  speed ; stop  ’er.”  Then  we 
seized  our  full  bags  and  started  ashore,  to  find 
sometimes,  that  the  hoys  and  young  men  of  the 
26 


302 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


village,  thinking  we  must  be  agents  come  from 
the  Government,  for  conscripts  or  forced  labor- 
ers, had  fled  and  concealed  themselves.  But, 
with  our  flag  of  truce,  the  Bible  in  hand,  we 
brought  them  back,  when  we  would  soon  be  sur- 
rounded by  purchaser.  This  work  done,  and  it 
often  called  for  a good  deal  of  bargaining,  for 
orientals  love  bargaining,  and  they  must  too 
have  time  to  do  things  deliberately,  the  next 
thing  in  order  was  conversation  and  controversy. 
The  scene  of  our  operations  was  sometimes  the 
Caffi,  or  open  streets,  and  sometimes  the  church, 
school,  or  government  offices,  where  the  scribes 
may  usually  be  found,  or  the  priest’s  house. 
Sometimes  we  would  only  spend  a few  hours  at 
a village,  and  sometimes  a day  or  more,  especi- 
ally when  there  were  other  villages  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, when  we  would  scatter  our  forces 
among  them,  I taking  the  more  distant  ones 
with  the  horse.  Sometimes,  when  the  next  stop 
was  not  too  distant,  I went  down,  on  the  horse, 
in  the  back  country,  stopping  at  every  village, 
though  it  might  contain  few  or  no  Copts,  and 
when  the  distances  were  longer,  the  owner 
took  him  on  shore  while  we  sailed  down.  Horses 
were  then  plenty  in  Upper  Egypt,  as  the  Pasha 
had  a short  time  before  disbanded  there  a cav- 
alry regiment ; and  for  owner  and  horse  I had 
to  give  but  twenty-seven  cents  per  day.  Such 
was  the  general  character  of  our  work.  We 


A FAITHFUL  MAN. 


303 


strove  to  canvass  thoroughly  the  villages  visited, 
and  as  for  general  results,  -we  visited  over  sev- 
enty villages,  and  sold  books  in  all  for  over 
twenty-five  thousand  piastres,  equal  to  about 
eight  hundred  and  forty  dollars. 

We  reached  Sahil  Bahjura  after  sunset.  This 
is  the  port  of  Bahjura  and  Farshoot,  which  are 
inland,  and  is  the  centre  of  a large  Christian 
population.  There  is  here  a large  sugar  factory, 
belonging  to  one  of  the  royal  family.  The  engi- 
neer over  the  works  is  a Mr.  Dickson,  a member 
of  Dr.  Cooke’s  church,  of  Belfast,  Ireland.  The 
English  engineers  and  workmen  employed  by 
the  Government  and  wealthy  Pashas  are  numer- 
ous in  Egypt,  but  Mr.  Dickson  is  the  only  one  I 
know  who  insists  on  observing  the  Sabbath  as  a 
day  of  holy  rest.  He  deserves  the  more  praise 
for  this,  because  unlike  the  most  of  the  rest,  he 
is  far  removed  from  the  public  ordinances  of 
religion.  With  his  wife  and  daughter,  (a  young 
lady  about  seventeen  years  of  age,)  he  lives 
there  a stranger  among  strangers,  without  phy- 
sician or  minister,  and  deprived  of  many  of  the 
comforts  of  civilized  life,  and  I was  pleased  to 
find  he  had  acquired  a high  reputation  among 
the  natives  for  integrity  and  sterling  uprightness 
of  character. 

14 th.  In  arranging  the  books  yesterday,  I had 
put  away  in  a corner  thirty-six  copies  of  the 
the  Psalms  in  Beirut  edition,  which  is  much  larger 


304 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


print,  than  the  London  edition,  and  I had  intended 
to  reserve  them  for  special  occasions,  but  had  not 
informed  Monsur  of  this  intention,  and  this 
morning  on  going  out  I found  him  on  the 
shore  with  a large  company  of  Copts  around 
him,  and  he  had  already  sold  them  all.  Above 
all  books,  the  book  of  Psalms  is  in  demand 
among  the  Copts.  It  is  the  universal  school 
book,  and  most  of  the  children  commit  the  one 
hundred  and  fifty  Psalms,  plus  one  additional 
one,  which  they  have  picked  up  somewhere,  I 
know  not  whence.  In  after  life  their  prayers  con- 
sist mainly  in  repetitions  of  these,  but  most  of 
them  never  enter  very  deeply  into  the  meaning. 
Like  parrots,  they  repeat  them  by  rote.  It 
forms,  however,  a good  foundation  for  Christian 
character,  when  in  after  life  God’s  spirit  flashes 
light  into  the  dark  store-rooms  of  memory  thus 
furnished.  Our  supply  of  even  London  Psalms 
was  limited,  or  our  sales  would  have  been  much 
larger  that  winter.  We  could  have  sold  a large 
edition  of  the  Psalms  at  full  cost. 

16  th.  To-day  I remained  within,  preparing  for 
the  morrow’s  services.  About  four  p.  m.,  I 
went  up  on  deck  to  “ snuff  the  air,”  when  seeing 
a number  of  Copts  coming  around  the  corner  of 
a house  upon  the  shore  above,  I cried,  “ Whither 
bound?”  They  said,  “To  the  convent  to  pray.” 
“ And  I with  you.”  So  I started  up  without 
giving  Mrs.  L.  notice  of  my  intention.  Mon- 


CONVENT  WORSHIP. 


305 


sur,  who  was  in  the  village,  also  joined  the 
company.  There  were  among  them  two  elderly 
men,  who  had  asses,  and  they  immediately  dis- 
mounted and  hade  me  ride.  They  swore  they 
would  not  ride,  and  I asseverated  that  I would 
not,  and  they  might  as  well  re-mount  at  once.  I 
insisted  that  they  were  old,  and  I young  and 
able  to  walk ; and  they  affirmed  that  I was  hon- 
orable, and  it  would  be  a shame  for  them  to  ride 
and  me  to  walk.  We  kept  up  this  controversy 
in  the  midst  of  our  talk  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  When  we  reached  the  convent  I was 
weary  enough  to  be  glad  to  ride  a short  distance, 
after  which  they  mounted.  The  convent  is  situ- 
ated in  an  open  plain,  and  consists  of  a high 
wall  enclosing  a church  with  a few  straggling 
rooms,  which  were  formerly  occupied  by  the 
monks,  but  now  only  by  a family  which  looks 
after  the  church.  The  people  of  several  of  the 
neighboring  villages  worship  here,  and  they  were 
now  coming  to  it  in  straggling  parties,  scattered 
over  the  plain.  When  we  neared  the  convent,  I 
noticed  that  the  high-water  mark  was  several  feet 
from  the  ground,  upon  the  walls.  I asked  them 
how  they  got  there  to  worshqj  in  high  Nile. 
“We  wade.”  “And  how  high  is  the  water?” 
“ In  some  places,”  they  answered,  “ to  the  middle, 
in  some  places  to  the  breast,  and  in  some  places 
we  must  tie  our  clothes  to  our  Beads  and  swim.” 
What  think  ye  of  that,  ye  fair  weather  Chris- 
26* 


306 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


tians,  who  are  detained  from  church  by  a 
passing  cloud,  or  a wet  side-walk  ? They  told 
me,  however,  that  not  so  many  attend  during 
high  Nile  as  at  other  times.  They  either  wor- 
ship in  their  houses,  or  go  to  other  villages. 

When  we  entered  it  was  not  yet  time  for 
service  to  commence ; so,  to  avoid  the  litter  and 
fleas  below,  they  took  us  to  the  roof,  and  sitting 
down,  with  our  backs  against  the  wall,  and  the 
beautiful  plain,  dotted  with  villages  and  clumps 
of  palm  trees,  now  all  bathed  in  the  glory  of 
the  setting  sun,  before  us,  we  strove  to  make 
profitable,  to  the  audience  that  gathered  around 
us,  the  hour  until  service  commenced.  When  the 
clatter  of  cymbals  and  the  loud  voice  of  chant- 
ing below  informed  us  that  work  had  began  in 
the  church,  we  went  down,  and  though  I have 
heard  among  the  Copts  much  loud  praying  and 
chanting,  I never  heard  any  thing  to  match  that 
night.  The  orchestra  was  a full  one,  and  the  old 
men  on  one  side,  and  the  boys  on  the  other,  abso- 
lutely screamed,  while  the  crash  of  the  loud,  high- 
sounding  cymbals,  was  almost  deafening.  In 
one  of  the  pauses  I heard  some  of  them  com- 
menting upon  the  fact  of  our  presence  with 
them  in  the  church.  They  seemed  pleased  with 
this  evidence  of  our  tolerance  and  brotherly 
feeling,  and  compared  it  with  the  bigotry  of  the 
Catholics,  who  th£y  said  would  never  attend. 

17 th. — Sabbath.  We  had  Arabic  service  at 


BIBLE  WORK. 


307 


twelve,  M.,  on  the  steamer,  but  the  town  having 
but  few  Copts  besides  the  scribes  of  the  factory, 
and  most  of  these  being  yet  at  the  conveut,  we 
had  but  eight  present  besides  our  own  people. 
I preached  from  Rev.  xxii.  17,  and  from  the 
same  in  English,  at  four,  r.  sr.,  in  the  dahabi- 
yeh.  It  is  a pleasure  to  preach  to  people,  Arabs 
or  English,  who  hunger  for  the  Word;  and  such 
seemed  emphatically  to  be  the  case  with  Mr. 
Dickson  and  family. 

. 18lh.  Priest  Makhiel  started  for  the  first  day’s 
work  across  the  river,  hoping  this  time  to  reach 
Kefr  Es  Sayced  and  How.  But  his  box  was 
again  emptied  before  he  reached  How.  So  we 
concluded  the  next  morning  to  retrace  our  way 
there  with  steamer  and  all.  During  our  stay 
here  we  had  sold  books  for  two  thousand  five 
hundred  piastres,  about  eighty-four  dollars. 

19 th.  Went  up  to  How,  and  keeping  up 
steam,  we  went  ashore  and  sold  a number  of 
books,  and  then  sailed  down  to  Beliane. 

20 th.  To-day  Mr.  R.  and  I started  to  visit  the 
ruins  of  Arabat  El  Madfuuch,  (the  buried  Ara- 
bat,)  which  the  antiquarians  tell  us  is  the 
ancient  Abydus,  and  some  of  them  the  still 
more  ancient  This.  It  is  a long  ride  of  seven 
miles,  and  as  our  plan  was  to  rejoin  the  boats  at 
Girgeh,  and  we  hoped  to  take  a number  of  vil- 
lages in  our  way,  we  put  a box  of  books  on  a 
donkey  to  follow  us  instead  of  a bag  on  the  sad- 


308 


Egypt's  princes. 


die.  A large  canal  waters  abundantly  this  sec- 
tion of  country,  and  we  spent  the  day  riding 
amidst  the  most  charming  pastoral  scenes  I have 
ever  witnessed.  The  clover,  wheat,  barley, 
beans,  peas,  etc.,  seemed  all  in  most  luxuriant 
growth,  and  the  cattle,  horses,  buffaloes,  and 
other  domestic  animals,  which  on  every  side  were 
tethered  in  the  rich  clover  fields  with  their  keep- 
ers who  attended  to  them,  gave  the  wrhole  land- 
scape an  air  of  life  and  animation. 

We  crawled  into  the  temple  which  is  almost 
buried  in  sand,  and  while  we  were  admiring  the 
rich  carvings  and  brilliant  colors,  as  bright  as 
if  yesterday  put  on,  a company  of  Coptic  scribes, 
who  were  enjoying  a holiday,  and  had  come  like 
ourselves  to  see  the  ruins,  entered.  They  sat 
down  with  us  on  the  sand  bank  and  soon  said, 
“ O,  Khowagah,  by  whom  were  all  these  figures 
made,  and  for  what  purpose?”  I told  them, 
“ By  your  forefathers,  as  mementoes  of  their  and 
your  religion.”  I had  before  me  my  diagram, 
and  it  was  an  easy  matter  to  prove  my  proposi- 
tion. “ There,  you  see  that  great  fellow,  robed 
and  mitred,  with  staff  and  cross — that  is  the 
Bishop.  These  others,  as  you  see,  are  priests 
burning  incense  to  him,  kneeling  before  him, 
bringing  offerings  which,  for  all  I know,  may  be 
communion  cakes  to  be  examined,  and  one  se- 
lected for  the  mass,  etc.  To  all  which  they  said, 
“ True , true , ( sahieh , sahieh,)  why  did  we  not  see 


CONVENT. 


309 


all  that  before.”  Then  came  the  application, 
which  in  brief  was,  Your  Christianity  is  much 
older  than  Christ,  and  is  little  better  than  bap- 
tized heathenism.  A Protestant  wag,  when 
asked  the  question,  which  we  must  hear  so  often 
even  in  Egypt,  “ Where  was  your  religion  be- 
fore Luther  ?”  retorted  by  asking,  “ Where  was 
your  face  before  it  was  washed  this  morning  ?” 
and  these  monuments  show  where  and  what  the 
Coptic  religion  was  before  it  was  baptized. 

By  the  time  our  Q.  E.  D.  was  said,  the  box 
of  books  had  come,  and  our  Coptic  friends  pur- 
chased freely.  When,  after  sating  ourselves  with 
admiring  this  beautiful  ruin,  we  departed  for  a 
convent  on  a spur  of  the  mountain  to  the  left. 
The  site  of  the  ancient  city  was  a magnificent 
one,  lying  in  the  lap  of  the  mountain,  and  over- 
looking this  luxuriant  plain,  and  over  the  hill  we 
could  still  see  the  road  which  led  to  the  great 
oasis. 

At  the  convent  we  found  an  old  priest,  just 
saying  mass  before  the  altar  in  the  church.  When 
he  saw  us  over  his  shoulder,  he  abridged  it  to 
the  length  of  a “ hunting  mass,”  after  which  we 
had  a pleasant  conversation  with  him  over  a cup 
of  coffee,  and  left  some  books.  We  then  rode 
to  Shaikh  Marzuk,  the  village  of  Botros  Bey,  the 
wealthiest  Copt  in  Egypt.  He  has  2,300  acres 
of  land,  sugar  and  indigo  factories,  seventy 
slaves,  and  flocks  and  herds  almost  without  num- 


310 


Egypt’s  princes. 


ber.  lie  lias  a fine  family  of  sons,  and  one  of 
them  was  taken  by  the  Government  as  a con- 
script, and  it  had  cost  him  more  than  §300,  as 
here  in  America,  to  secure  for  him  exemption. 
So  to  secure  himself  from  any  further  trouble 
of  the  kind,  he  had  procured  a Russian  consular 
agency  for  Osiout.  The  office,  of  course,  was  a 
purely  nominal  one,  as  he  is  a non-resident,  but 
it  answers  the  purpose  intended.  It  secures 
Russian  protection  for  himself  and  family.  I 
think  he  must  have  received  favorable  accounts 
about  us  from  Wasef,  our  consular  agent  in  Osi- 
out, who  is  a relation  of  his,  for  he  received  us 
with  distinguished  favor.  He  lived  in  a house 
which,  in  comparison  with  Egyptian  houses  gen- 
erally, may  be  called  a palace.  The  large  reception 
room  was  quickly  spread  with  the  richest  Persian 
carpets,  and  it  was  soon  evident  that  a great  feast 
was  in  process  of  preparation.  This  was  more 
than  we  had  anticipated.  A traveler  in  Luxor, 
to  whom  he  had  shown  a favor,  had  authorized 
us  to  present  him  a Bible,  and  as  my  horse  was 
beginning  to  show  the  effects  of  hard  riding  in  a 
lameness,  I had  been  directed  to  him  as  a man 
from  whom  I could  probably  purchase  one,  and 
we  only  wished  to  stop  to  attend  to  these  two 
matters  of  business,  and  to  satisfy  our  curiosity 
as  to  this  Coptic  Dives,  and  if  possible  speak  a 
word  of  truth  and  pass  on.  But  we  saw  that 
we  were  in  for  the  afternoon,  and  could  only 


A ItICH  MAN. 


311 


strive  to  make  it  as  profitable  as  possible.  He 
listened  with  respect  to  my  expositions  of  truth, 
but  his  heart  was  evidently  in  his  possessions, 
and  not  very  deeply  engaged  in  the  matter  of 
religion.  We,  however,  were  pleased  to  find 
among  his  other  enterprises  and  improvements, 
that  lie  was  building  a church.  When  I made 
known  my  wish  to  him  to  purchase  a horse,  he 
immediately  called  one  of  his  slaves,  and,  whis- 
pering in  his  ear,  he  sent  him  to  the  fields,  for 
one.  I proposed  that  we  should  go  to  the  field 
and  see  his  horses,  of  which  he  said  he  had  four 
hundred  and  twenty,  and  there  we  might  choose 
such  an  one  as  would  suit ; but  he  said,  “ No  ; 
we  will  bring  you  one  that  will  suit.”  The  slave 
soon  returned  with  a splendid  Arab  blood  horse, 
and  when  he  had  him  show  oft'  his  paces  before 
us  as  we  sat  before  the  door,  it  wras  enough  to 
make  the  teeth  of  a lover  of  good  horses  water. 
He  asked  whether  he  pleased  me.  I said,  “ O, 
yes,  such  a horse  would  please  any  one  ; but  he 
is  a better  horse  than  1 need  for  my  purpose.” 
He  said,  “ If  he  suits  you,  take  him.  He  is 
yours.”  I saw  at  once  that  this  expression  was 
not,  as  usual  in  Arabdom,  a mere  preface  to  a 
long  course  of  higgling  and  bantering,  but  that 
it  was  an  earnest  bona  fide  gift  of  the  horse,  and 
I began  to  cast  about  for  a way  of  gracefully 
backing  out  of  my  proposition  to  buy  a horse. 
It  is  the  custom  of  the  Arabs  once  a year  to  take 


312 


EGYPT’S  PRINCES. 


the  shoes  off  their  horses  and  turn  them  out  to 
clover  for  a month  or  six  weeks,  during  which 
time  they  never  use  them  ; and  indeed  they  be- 
come so  fat  and  soft  that  they  are  unfit  for  use. 
So  I said,  “ I am  sorry  to  find  that  I have  come 
just  when  your  horses  are  all  out  to  grass.  I 
wish  a horse  for  present  use  to  ride  down  to 
Cairo,  going  from  village  to  village,  and  one  day 
of  such  riding  as  I do  would  ruin  this  horse.  I 
will  have  still  to  cling  to  the  old  one,  although 
he  limps  a little.”  But  he  immediately  shut  this 
door  against  me  thus  : “ Very  well,  I will  keep 
him  till  he  has  done  with  clover,  and  then  I will 
send  him  down  with  one  of  the  boys  to  Cairo. 
In  what  street  do  you  live  in  Cairo  ?”  I was 
again  taken  aback,  and  the  perspiration  began  to 
flow  freely,  so  that  Mr.  It.,  wrho  sat  by  and 
could  not  understand  the  conversation,  noticed 
and  wondered  at  my  embarrassment.  It  was  a 
great  relief  to  be  able  to  resort  to  an  English 
explanation  to  him  by  way  of  recovering  my 
equilibrium,  and  preparing  another  speech.  I 
could  not  think  of  accepting  the  horse,  and  he 
must  be  declined  in  a manner  which  could  not 
be  considered  a breach  of  our  short  but  warm 
friendship.  I was  finally  able  to  compose  my- 
self sufficiently  to  tell  him  that  I was  exceedingly 
obliged  to  him  for  his  generous  offer,  but  that  I 
only  wished  a common  horse  for  present  use,  and 
had  intended  to  sell  him  on  reaching  Cairo ; that 


OPPOSITION. 


313 


theVe  I had  no  use  for  a horse,  and  we  missiona- 
ries could  not  afford  to  keep  one  as  a mere  lux- 
ury. This  ended  the  matter,  and  I felt  greatly 
relieved.  The  Arabs  generally  are  adepts  in  the 
art  of  “ hating  with  a sprat  to  catch  a mack- 
erel,” but  he  seemed  to  have  no  such  game  in 
his  mind.  The  offer  seemed  evidently  a hearty 
and  disinterested  one. 

It  was  after  dark  before  our  grand  dinner  was 
prepared,  and  then  we  had  a long  night  ride  to 
Girgeh.  Our  host  sent  with  us  a guide,  and 
when  about  half  way  down  we  passed  through 
a village  in  which  he  informed  us  there  were 
many  Copts.  Our  conscience  began  to  smite  us 
that  we  had  passed  the  afternoon  to  so  little 
profit,  and  we  concluded  that  we  would  adhere 
more  closely  to  the  Saviour’s  rule,  to  “ salute  no 
man  by  the  way.” 

21  st.  Intending,  as  far  as  possible,  to  make 
amends  for  last  night’s  omissions  we  sent  Mon- 
sux  back  to  Bardis,  the  village  we  had  been 
forced  to  pass  through,  but  he  met  with  no  suc- 
cess. The  priest  forbade  the  people  from  buy- 
ing, which  was  the  first  time  we  had  met  with 
any  active  opposition  from  the  priests  to  our 
book-selling  work.  At  Girgeh  also,  we  sold  but 
few  books,  although  it  is  a large  town.  Giovan- 
ni heard  the  Copts  saying  in  the  town  that  the 
priests  had  prohibited  their  buying,  but  on  in- 
quiring we  found  that  it  was  a Catholic  priest. 

27 


314 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


We  next  went  down  to  Asseirab,  where’  is  a 
wealthy  Moslem  family,  called  the  “ Sons  of 
Hamsa.”  There  are  several  brothers  of  them,  and 
I had  heard  that  the  eldest  of  them  named  Mu- 
hammed,  was  an  infidel  to  the  Muslem  faith,  and 
a man  of  singular  character,  but  great  ability, 
and  having  a letter  of  introduction  to  him,  we 
called.  He  had  many  questions  to  ask,  and 
many  of  them  were  very  shrewd  ones,  and  he 
cordially  fell  in  with  some  of  my  arguments 
against  Islam,  but  I fear  a covert  alliance  with 
the  bottle  is  at  the  root  of  his  infidelity  to  the 
faith  of  his  fathers.  He  took  us  to  see  a chicken 
hatching  establishment  which  he  has,  and  as  it 
was  the  first  one  we  had  seen,  we  found  it  a great 
curiosity.  There  are  two  long  rows  of  ovens 
with  a passage  between  them.  On  the  floor  of 
each  of  these  ovens  several  hundred  eggs  are 
placed,  and  they  are  heated  by  a long  funnel  in 
front,  in  which  pulverized  charcoal  is  placed,  so 
mixed  with  earth  as  to  burn  slowly  and  keep 
the  ovens  at  an  even  temperature.  He  opened 
several  of  the  ovens  for  us,  and  one  of  them  in 
which  the  chickens  were  just  hatched.  It  was  a 
funny  sight  to  see  several  hundred  chickens  so 
pure  and  clean,  chirping  and  running  to  and  fro 
in  all  the  delight  of  release  from  their  long  im- 
prisonment, while  some  of  the  more  tardy  ones 
were  just  picking  through  the  shell;  others  had 
split  it  and  were  struggling  for  deliverance 


CHICKEN  HATCHING. 


315 


while  some  like  little  turtles  were  running  about 
with  half  a shell  on  their  backs.  These  estab- 
lishments are  an  Egyptian  institution.  The 
jieasants  bring  to  them  their  eggs  and  exchange 
two  eggs  for  a chicken,  and  take  them  home  to 
their  wives  to  cluck  to  them  and  rear  them  by 
hand.  The  mild  climate  and  equable  tempera- 
ture of  Egypt  are  admirably  adapted  to  rearing 
poultry.  The  men  who  attended  the  establish- 
ment were  Copts,  and  they  purchased  three  Tes- 
taments. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


Souiiaj. — This  place  has  recently  been  made 
the  capital  of  the  district  in  the  place  of  Gir- 
geh.  When  the  scribes  learned  what  our  er- 
rand was  they  came  down,  keen  to  buy.  The 
first  man  purchased  for  seventy  piastres,  and  in 
less  than  an  hour  we  sold  books  for  $30.  There 
was  but  little  higgling  about  prices.  Even  when 
it  was  attempted,  it  seemed  more  from  habit 
than  a desire  or  hope  of  obtaining  the  books 
cheaper.  When  one  would  attempt  it  the  others 
would  interpose,  saying,  that  it  was  no  use,  that 
they  knew  us  to  be  men  of  “ one  word;"  that 
the  binding  of  the  books  was  worth  more  than 
the  prices  we  asked,  and  that  we  brought  the 
books  to  them  as  a present,  and  only_  asked 
the  expense  of  transportation.  Thus,  frequently 
.^we  find  them  comparing  the  prices  of  our  books 
with  what,  with  them,  would  be  the  cost  of 
transcribing  and  binding  them,  and  of  course 
they  consider  them  very  cheap,  even  when  we 
sell  at  full  cost  price. 

Sabbath , 24 th.  This  morning  a priest  with  a 
number  of  people  came  down  to  buy  books.  We 
told  them  that  we  did  not  sell  on  the  Sabbath,  but 

(316) 


A SIGHT. 


317 


that  on  the  morrow  we  would  let  them  have 
all  they  wished.  I then,  seeing  the  people  pass 
to  and  fro  on  the  shore  and  thinking  that  from 
them  we  might  gather  an  audience,  asked  them 
up  to  some  shade  trees  where  we  took  our  seats  in 
the  dust  beside  the  road.  The  rebuff  and  reproof 
which  the  priest  had  received  in  the  matter  of 
the  books,  seemed  at  once  to  turn  all  his  milk 
into  curds,  and  he  did  not  wish  to  remain,  but 
by  way  of  propitiating,  and  engaging  him,  I 
gave  him  the  Testament,  and  asked  him  to  read 
to  us.  He  opened  at  the  18th  chapter  of  Luke 
and  read  two  chapters,  when  I took  the  book 
and  explained  the  passages  in  the  chapters  read, 
which  seemed  fitting  to  their  circumstances.  By 
this  time,  enough  of  the  passers-by  had  joined 
us  to  form  a good  audience.  At  4 p.  m.,  we 
had  English  service  for  our  little  company,  and 
after  it  three  men,  who  had  been  with  us  in  the 
morning,  returned  and  we  had  a long  conversa- 
tion with  them. 

2olh.  Stopped  to-day  opposite  Tahta:  going 
ashore  with  our  box  of  books  we  had  great 
trouble  to  find  a beast  of  burden  to  carry  them. 
We  finally  succeeded  in  impressing  a sorry-look- 
ing  woe-begone  donkey  which  was  as  guiltless 
of  saddle,  bridle,  or  halter  as  on  the  day  of  its 
birth.  But  “ necessity  is  the  mother  of  inven- 
tion.” We  plucked  up  a bundle  of  green  wheat, 
and  making  it  serve  as  a pack  saddle,  and  then 
27* 


318 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


fetching  an  end  of  the  rope  from  the  boat  we 
tied  it  around  the  animal’s  neck.  By  this  I led 
him,  or  rather  dragged  him,  while  Monsur  and 
one  of  the  boatmen  supported  the  box  on  either 
side.  It  was  a group  for  a painter.  My  rig 
was  far  from  being  after  the  most  approved 
style  of  clerical  costume,  and  I bore  a staff  six 
feet  long  to  assist  in  walking,  and  as  a safe- 
guard against  dogs,  for  Oriental  dogs  are  often 
as  intolerant  as  Moslems  of  strangers,  who  may 
disturb  them  in  their  road-side  naps.  We,  too, 
were  disposed  to  be  as  facetious  as  our  appear- 
ance was  comical.  We  met  many  people  com- 
ing down  the  landing,  and  they  stared  at  the 
strange  cavalcade.  We  stopped  each  man  as 
he  came  along,  and  if  he  wore  a light  colored 
turban  we  asked  him,  “ Do  you  fast  Ramadan 
or  the  ‘ holy  forty’  (lent)  ?”  If  he  said  “ Rama- 
dan,” we  said,  “ Then  go  in  peace,  we  only  have 
some  Christian  books  to  s.ell.”  If  he  said 
The  ‘ holy  forty,’  ” we  next  interrogated  him, 
“ Are  you  a Copt  or  ‘ Tabia’  (‘  adherent’)  ?” 
There  are  many  Catholics  in  Tahta,  and  the 
Catholics  in  Egypt  are  called  “ adherents”  of 
the  Pope.  If  he  said  “a  Tabia,”  we  said  “We  have 
nothing  to  do  with  you.  We  have  Bibles  to 
sell,  but  your  priests  will  not  let  you  read  the 
Bible.  But  we  also  bring  you  word  that  the  Pope 
is  dead;  Garibaldi  has  just  killed  him.”  If  he 
said  “a  Copt,”  we  answered,  “You  are  just  the 


WORKING. 


319 


man  we  want  to  see.  We  have  some  Bibles  and 
other  religious  books  here,  and  sell  them  very 
cheap.  All  we  want  is  the  cost  of  transportation, 
and  as  they  surveyed  our  method  of  transporta- 
tion, they  concluded  that  that  could  not  be 
much,  sb  we  threw  up  the  cover  and  exposed  our 
books.  Thus  we  went  up  to  Sahil  Tahta,  a 
distance  of  half  an  hour.  Here  we  sought  out 
the  church,  and  entering  found  the  people  at 
mass.  The  priest  before  the  altar  stole  glances 
at  us  over  his  shoulder,  and  the  boys  and 
most  of  the  people  turned  their  faces  full  upon 
us,  and  their  backs  to  the  altar.  After  standing 
awhile  we  concluded  that  we  had  not  time  to 
see  them  through,  and  that  we  would  go  on  to 
Tahta  itself,  and  stop  here  on  our  return.  But 
when  we  left,  there  wras  a general  stampede  of 
the  congregation,  and  so  Ave  entered  upon  our 
business  at  once,  and  those  without  taking  some 
of  the  new  books  inside,  the  few  Avho  remained 
Avitliin  also  came  out,  and  I think  the  priest  Avas 
left  entirely  alone  to  finish  his  mass. 

We  next  proceeded  to  Tahta,  which  is  some 
distance  further  on,  and  a rich  time  Ave  had  of  it, 
going  through  the  streets  and  crying  our  wares 
like  sellers  of  radishes,  and  several  rich  encoun- 
ters we  had  Avith  the  Catholics,  Avho  not  content 
Avith  not  purchasing  themselves,  strove  to  per- 
suade the  Copts  not  to  purchase.  We  sold  a 
good  many  books,  and  having  supplied  the  mar- 
ket returned  to  the  boat. 


320  Egypt’s  princes. 

In  the  evening  we  came  down  to  Timneh,  and 
the  next  day,  the  26th,  we  canvassed  it,  and  the 
neighboring  villages.  In  one  of  these  we  were 
told  there  were  Copts,  but  not  one  that  could 
read,  and  so  we  were  minded  to  pass  them  over. 
But  his  Lordship  was  determined  as  far  as  pos- 
sible to  offer  “ the  book’1'1  to  all  the  Christians  of 
Egypt ; and  so  as  the  rest  of  us  were  engaged 
we  sent  our  servant  Abdallah  to  this  village. 

We  despatched  Father  Makhiel,  Abdallah  and 
one  of  the  men  with  a box  to  Abutij,  and  the 
other  villages  en  route  for  Osiout,  and  we  started 
for  it  and  reached  it  about  noon,  the 

27th.  We  went  up  to  the  town  and  found 
Faris  in  high  spirits  on  account  of  the  favora- 
ble turn  which  our  affairs  had  there  taken.  He 
is  a bold,  fearless  man,  and  besides  his  triumph 
over  the  Copts,  he  had  ventured  to  attack  the 
Muslems,  and  had  beaten  in  public  discussion 
their  chosen  champions.  This  made  the  timid 
Copts  glory  in  him,  and  even  faint-hearted 
Bukhtor,  reassured  by  his  success,  had  returned 
to  duty,  and  had  left  four  days  previous  with 
a bag  of  books  for  Benoud,  his  native  vil- 
lage. 

Our  school,  however,  was  not  yet  succeeding ; 
but  it  was  a consolation  to  know  that  the  Patri- 
arch’s school  has  also  failed,  although  the  teacher 
whom  he  sent  had  now  been  on  the  ground  three 
months.  The  Areefs  were  evidently  the  cause 


BOOK  SHOPS- 


321 


of  the  failure.  They  wanted  neither  the  Patri- 
arch nor  us  to  take’ there  a modernized  school- 
master to  establish  a new-fangled  school.  Their 
little  earnings  were  at  stake,  and  so  the  poor 
children  must  still  have  psalms  not  comprehend- 
ed, and  incomprehensible  Coptic  prayers  beaten 
into  them  at  the  soles  of  their  feet.  That  this 
was  the  sole  cause  of  the  present  opposition,  and 
that  the  priestly  ban  against  us  had  been  broken, 
was  evident  from  the  fact  that  of  late  the  people 
had  again  commenced  purchasing  books,  and  so 
we  spent  the 

28 th  in  putting  the  book  department  on  a 
more  efficient  footing.  We  made  accounts  of 
the  past  sales,  hired  a shop  in  the  most  fre- 
quented street  of  the  town  at  the  trifling  rent  of 
one  dollar  per  month,  and  left  for  it  a new  sup- 
ply of  books.  These  book  shops,  opening  upon 
a public  street  where  passers  by  are  tempted  to 
drop  in,  to  purchase  and  talk,  we  have  found 
among  our  most  useful  ways  of  disseminating  the 
good  seed.  In  the  streets, of  an  Oriental  town, 
we  do  not  see  people  as  at  home  rushing 
through  the  streets  as  if  they  were  in  pur- 
suit of  a thief,  or  carrying  the  mail,  or  run- 
ning for  the  doctor.  They  know  how  to  pre- 
serve the  “ otium  cum  dignitate and  are  seldom 
in  too  great  a hurry  to  stop  for  a cup  of  coflee 
and  pipe,  or  a friendly  conversation.  And  if  an 
able  and  sociable  man,  who  has  what  the  Arab 


322 


Egypt’s  princes. 


proverb  calls  a “ pliable  side  ” in  intercourse 
with  others,  is  put  into  one  of  these  shops,  he 
soon  attracts  around  him  crowds. 

In  the  evening  Faris  brought  for  a friendly 
call  a man  who  through  the  winter  had  been 
the  leader  of  the  opposition,  and  who  had  also 
written  the  letter  to  Ghenneh  which  was  so  in- 
fluential, in  aid  of  the  Bishop,  in  securing  Fadil 
Pasha  to  his  interest.  It  was  wonderful  how 
Faris  had  been  able  to  bring  this  man  over  to 
our  interests. 

He  also  told  me  of  the  case  of  a Coptic  wo- 
man, who  had  some  years  before  been  seduced 
by  a Muslem,  and  who  now  wished  to  return  to 
her  old  faith,  and  said  the  Copts  were  very  anx- 
ious he  should  undertake  her  defense  with  the 
Government,  and  asked  what  he  should  do.  I 
told  him  that  if  in  a friendly  way  he  could  do 
any  thing  with  the  Government  to  secure  her  in 
her  return  to  the  faith  of  her  fathers,  he  might 
do  so,  but  that  he  must  be  very  careful  not  to 
compromise  himself  nor  implicate  us  with  the 
authorities.  He,  however,  went  beyond  his  let- 
ter of  instructions,  and  four  months  after  it 
resulted  in  an  affair  which  almost  cost  him  his 
life,  but  which  made  us  politically  the  first  men 
in  Egypt. 

We  left  at  noon,  and  at  sunset  reached  Haw- 
atke,  and  the  next  morning  we  divided  our 
forces  between  it  and  Egawe,  and  in  both  places 


ABD-EL-MASIEH. 


323 


we  found  many  who  manifested  their  desire  for 
the  Word  of  God  by  purchasing. 

29 th.  We  went  down  to  Manfaloot.  About 
three  hours  ride  back  of  this  place,  at  the  foot 
of  the  western  hills,  is  a convent,  called  Mabar- 
rak,  which  is  the  most  flourishing  institution  of 
the  kind  in  Egypt.  It  has  large  landed  possessions 
in  the  valley,  and  ^contains  about  three  hundred 
monks.  I told  Makhiel  that  I purposed  going  to 
the  convent,  and  wished  him  to  go  along  and 
help  me  deal  with  his  brother  monks.  He  an- 
swered in  astonishment,  “ Me  ! If  you  take  me, 
you  will  neither  sell  books,  nor  get  a mouthful  to 
eat  after  the  long  ride,  and  they  will  make  you 
sleep  outside  on  the  ground.”  He  then  went  on 
to  explain  that  he  had  been  instrumental  in  the 
enlightenment  of  one  Abd-El-Masieh  (servant  of 
Christ),  of  whose  story  I had  already  heard. 
This  man  is  one  of  God’s  “ hidden  ones”  in 
Egypt.  He  was  a studious,  earnest  man,  who 
spent  much  of  his  time  in  searching  the  Scrip- 
tures. Some  years  ago,  while  on  a visit  to  Cai- 
ro, Makhiel  made  his  acquaintance,  and  spent 
several  days  in  conference  with  him,  which  re- 
sulted in  Iris  being  put  xipon  the  Protestant  track. 

He  went  back  to  the  convent,  and  employed 
himself  in  studying  the  Scriptures  with  his  new 
light,  and  writing  annotations  upon  them,  and  it 
is  now  said  that  he  has  a large  volume  of 
them,  and  that  the  book  is  decidedly  Protes- 


324 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


tant.  That  he  might  the  better  make  himself 
acquainted  with  the  whole  contents  of  the  Word 
of  God,  he  has  with  his  own  hand  copied  the  en- 
tire Bible,  and  in  the  mean  time,  by  way  of  recre- 
ation, he  read  the  old  church  manuscripts  in  the 
convent  of  which  he  was  librarian,  and  when- 
ever he  found  in  them  any  thing  opposed  to  the 
Scriptures,  he  tore  out  the  leaves,  and,  cutting 
them  into  shreds  with  his  scissors,  gave  them  to 
the  winds  from  the  window  of  the  library.  Such 
leaven  could  not  but  work  in  that  mass  of  three 
hundred  monks,  and  one  day  Abd-El-Malak  (ser- 
vant of  the  angel),  the  Abbot,  awoke  from  his 
cups  to  find  that  heresy  was  at  work  in  his 
monkish  family.  Abd-El-Masieh  and  his  adher- 
ents were  arraigned  and  tried,  and  the  result 
was  that  twenty-four  of  them  were  stripped  of 
their  monkish  robes  and  turned  out  into  the 
world,  some  of  them  stark  naked,  so  that  they 
were  forced  to  use  bricks  instead  of  fig-leaves, 
until  they  could  find  some  friendly  Muslem  or 
Christian  to  give  them  a garment. 

When  I heard  that  Makhiel  had  been  identified 
with  that  movement,  I concluded  to  leave  him 
at  home  and  take  Monsur  instead ; and  I 
thought,  besides,  that  a little  eclat  and  circum- 
stance would  not  be  amiss  with  these  purse- 
proud  monks.  Since  the  disabling  of  the  horse, 
I had  usually  preferred  the  humbler  equipment 
of  an  ass,  with  large  saddle-bags,  or  a box,  for 


A VISIT. 


325 


the  books,  but  this  time  I went  to  his  lordship  and 
told  him  of  the  convent  and  my  desire  to  visit 
it,  and  that  if  he  pleased  I would  order  the  cap- 
tain of  the  steamer  to  take  them  down  to  a 
place  called  Abu-Zeid,  where  I would  meet  them 
the  next  day.  He  agreed  to  this,  and  then  made 
the  proposition  which  I was  fishing  for,  viz.,  to 
send  up  to  the  Governor  for  horses  to  take  us. 
I said,  “ Oh,  your  lordship,  that  is  not  necessary  ; 
I think  we  will  be  able  to  find  donkeys  in  the 
street.”  He  insisted,  and  immediately  the  dra- 
goman was  despatched  to  the  Governor  to  make 
known  our  wants.  The  son  of  this  dignitary, 
Avho  is  also  the  Nazir,  soon  made  his  appearance 
at  the  steamer  to  inquire  where  we  wished  to  go 
and  how  many  horses  we  needed.  We  said  we 
wished  to  go  to  the  convent,  and  would  need 
two  horses  and  a guide.  He  said,  “ TJpon  my 
head  and  eye  and  leaving,  he  soon  returned 
with  his  father’s  horse  and  his  own  for  me  and 
Mousur,  and  a splendid  white  Meccan  donkey 
(which  in  Egypt  are  more  valued  than  horses) 
for  himself,  besides  a great  crowd  of  horses, 
donkeys,  and  attendants.  The  Governor’s  horse 
was  a splendid  Arab  charger,  all  done  up  in  blue 
silk  velvet  heavily  studded  with  gold. 

f Blue  was  the  charger’s  broidered  rein, 

Blue  ribbons  deck’d  his  arching  mane, 

The  knightly  housing’s  ample  fold 
Was  velvet  blue  and  trapped  with  gold.” 

28 


326 


EGYPT  8 PRINCES. 


This  horse  the  Nazir  pointed  out  for  me,  and  I 
at  once  concluded  that  he  was  none  too  good  for 
me.  The  second  one  was  but  little  inferior  to 
him,  and  Monsur  looked  at  him  aghast,  and  ab- 
solutely refused  to  mount  him.  So  I had  to 
apologize  for  him,  and  he  selected  one  of  the 
donkeys,  and  putting  the  large,  well-stuffed  sad- 
dle-bags across  him  he  mounted  astride  them. 
Mr.  Riley  usually  accompanied  us  on  these  ex- 
cursions, and  I urged  him  much  to  take  the  sec- 
ond horse,  but  Bro.  R.  was  an  Episcopalian,  and 
that  chanced  to  be  Good  Friday,  so  thinking  of 
the  Saviour’s  entry  into  Jerusalem  the  day  pre- 
vious on  an  ass,  and  his  sad  journey  through  the 
“ via  dolorosa  ” that  day,  he  preferred  remaining 
at  home  to  keep  the  feast.  What  troubled  me 
more  was  that  the  Nazir  insisted  on  doing  us  the 
honor  of  going  along  with  us.  We  did  not 
think  that  his  presence  would  assist  us  any,  and 
besides  it  was  now  3 p.  m.,  and  “ the  world  was 
Ramadan,”  and  consequently  we  had  to  suppose 
him  fasting  from  day-break  that  morning,  and 
now  not  feeling  like  taking  a three  hour’s  jour- 
ney on  an  empty  stomach,  but  rather  sighing  for 
the  sun  to  make  a sudden  leap  to  the  horizon 
when  all  good  Muslems  may  break  fast.  He  had 
brought  the  chief  Government  scribe,  who  was  a 
Copt,  to  introduce  us  to  the  monks,  and  that 
was  enough,  and  I entreated  him  to  remain,  but 
he  was  incorrigible,  and  insisted  that  it  would 
be  a shame  to  allow  us  to  go  alone. 


THE  CAVALCADE. 


327 


Finally  the  cavalcade  was  ready  for  starting, 
and  an  imposing  one  it  was.  I counted  the  at- 
tendants, who,  like  Elijah  before  the  chariot  (I 
think  it  was  the  horse)  of  Ahab,  had  girded  their 
loins  and  were  running  before,  and  found  them 
just  twenty-four.  (Absalom  had  fifty.)  There 
were  pipe-bearers  with  their  neatly  bagged  pipes, 
and  great  pouches  of  tobacco  in  their  bosoms ; 
grooms  with  the  red  cloth  over  their  shoulders, 
and  watchmen  with  their  long  staves ; and  they 
ran  in  two  rows,  keeping  the  road  between  them ; 
the  leaders  flourishing  their  staves  by  which  they 
sent  the  flocks  and  herds  that  were  coming  down 
the  road  scampering’ into  the  wheat  fields,  while 
the  peasants  who  were  coming,  if  mounted,  imme- 
diately dismounted,  and  all  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren stood  aside  reverently  bowing  their  heads, 
and  crossing  their  hands  over  their  breasts. 
Thus  we  proceeded  to  the  first  village  on  the 
road  where  we  were  duly  received  by  the  Shaikh ; 
the  Persian  carpets  were  spread  under  an  awning 
in  front  of  his  house,  the  ground  for  some  dis- 
tance around  was  sprinkled,  and  the  coflee  and 
pipes  were  brought.  These  the  Nazir  at  first 
declined,  more,  I think,  to  keep  up  an  appear- 
ance of  consistency  than  from  conscientious  scru- 
ples. But  then  I also  refused  to  partake,  and 
reminded  him  of  their  law,  “No  fast  upon  a 
journey,”  when  he  partook.  Thus  it  was  at  the 
second  village,  and  at  the  third,  when  it  was 


328 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


sunset ; and  I,  more  earnestly  than  at  the  other 
villages,  renewed  my  injunctions  that  he  should 
go  no  further.  But  he  was  still  minded  to  see 
us  through,  when  I said,  “ It  is  now  your 
time  to  eat,  and  you  shall  not  go  on ; I have 
sworn.”  I did  not  swear  though,  for  that  ex- 
pression is  a very  common  one,  and  only  means 
that  one  will  swear  if  the  other  does  not  yield 
the  point  in. dispute,  and  it  is  usually  immedi- 
ately given  up ; for  an  oath  is  yet  for  confirma- 
tion, an  end  of  strife.  So  we  went  on  without 
him.  When  we  reached  the  convent  and  pounded 
at  the  heavy  gate,  a monk  came  and  timidly 
asked  who  was  there,  when* our  friend  the  scribe 
slipped  in  and  had  a parley  with  them,  when  the 
gate  was  thrown  wide  open  and  we  entered. 
The  black  robed  brethren  were  at  once  flying 
hither  and  thither.  It  was  Father  Paul  here, 
and  Father  George  there,  in  most  excited  tones, 
and  soon  I was  seated  cross-legged  upon  the  high 
“ dewan  ” in  the  corner  of  honor  of  the  large 
reception  room,  with  Boulos,  the  brother  of  Abd 
El  Malak,  who  in  the  dotage  of  the  latter  is  act- 
ing Abbot,  beside  me ; while  I magnificently  sip- 
ped the  coflee  and  smoked  the  long  pipe.  It 
was  soon  evident  that  preparations  were  making 
for  a sacrifice  and  a great  feast,  but  I told  Mon- 
sur  to  inform  them  that  it  was  my  pleasure  to 
have  a light  supper,  and  that  I wished  as  many 
of  the  monks  as  convenient  to  come  together,  as 


THE  NAZIR. 


329 


I had  a word  to  say  to  them.  Soon  there  was 
a great  circle  of  them  standing  around  respect- 
fully crossing  their  hands  before  them,  and  it 
was  with  great  ado  that  we  could  get  them  to 
sit  down  on  the  floor.  I then  asked  for  a Bible, 
and  they  brought  an  immense  manuscript  folio 
containing  a part  of  it,  and  I spent  till  eleven 
o’clock  in  reading  and  expounding  to  them. 
They  had  but  just  left  us  that  we  might  retire, 
when  a great  rap  was  heard  on  the  gate,  and  the 
confusion  which  ensued  showed  that  the  Nazir 
had  followed  us  after  taking  his  late  dinner. 
Monsur  and  I,  fearing  that  we  might  be  kept  up 
two  hours  longer,  hastily  wrapped  ourselves  in 
the  comforters  and  stretched  ourselves  on  the 
dewan  to  sleep, and  put  out  the  light.  Soon  we 
heard  them  at  the  door  whispering : “ They  have 
gone  to  sleep,  we  cannot  disturb  them.”  It  did 
not  at  the  time  occur  to  us  that  there  might  not 
be  another  decent  reception  room  in  the  convent ; 
but  thus  it  must  have  been,  for  the  next  morning 
we  found  that  the  kind  Nazir  had  again  left  that 
night,  and  gone  back  to  the  village  which  was 
about  an  hour  distant.  The  next  morning  the 
lamb  was  slain,  and  we  had  a substantial  break- 
fast, considering  that  we  were  in  a Coptic  con- 
vent ; and  then  we  brought  out  our  bag  of  books, 
and  in  a very  short  time  the  monks  gathered 
around  and  they  were  all  sold,  and  many  more 
would  have  been  taken  had  we  had  them  with 
28* 


330 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


us.  They  literally  stripped  us,  Meshakah’s  hooks 
and  all,  and  soon  we  bid  them  adieu,  rejoicing 
that  we  had  again  been  able  to  place  the  leaven 
in  that  mass  of  human  corruption,  and  to  leave 
the  living  and  life-giving  Word  in  the  midst  of 
that  spiritual  death.  (When  the  Coptic  monks 
take  the  vow,  part  of  the  ceremony  is  to  dress 
them  in  their  grave-clothes,  to  signify  that  thence- 
forth they  are  to  be  as  if  dead  and  buried  to  the 
world.  Most  of  them  are  dead  to  God  and  holi- 
ness !) 

Several  months  afterward,  Brother  Hogg 
again  visited  the  convent,  when  he  found  that 
the  leaven  was  working  with  power,  and  Father 
Boulos  (Paul)  told  him  that  it  was  no  use  for 
themmjy  longer  to  resist  it,  that  they  who  were 
advanced  in  years  must  be  left  to  die  in  the  old 
way,  but  that  all  the  rising  generation  were  fol- 
lowing the  New  Way. 

On  our  way  we  picked  up  the  Nazir  at  the 
village,  where  I fear,  from  his  seedy  appearance, 
that  he  had  not  had  as  comfortable  quarters  as 
we  had  in  the  convent,  and  we  had  many 
regrets  to  offer.  We  reached  the  river  in 
safety,  and  soon  the  boats  came  along  and  picked 
us  up. 

April  Is/.  Stopped  at  Rhoda,  where  Ismail 
Pasha,  the  present  Viceroy,  had  a large  sugar 
factory,  and  an  immense  building  in  process  of 
erection  for  another.  Besides  our  sales  of  Bibles 


IBRAHIM,  THE  AUTHOR. 


331 


to  the  Copts,  two  Moslems  here  bought  Testa- 
ments. 

Minyeh.  We  found  here  that  our  stock  of 
Bibles  was  nearly  exhausted.  I had  all  along 
had  great  ado  to  convince  Lord  Aberdeen  that 
we  could  sell  all  our  Bibles  at  our  own  prices  j 
His  object  was  to  put  the  Bible  into  the  hands 
of  all  the  Copts  in  Egypt,  and  to  do  this  he  was 
prepared  to  make  and  did  make  a large  pecu- 
niary outlay.  Our  object  was  also  to  supply  the 
demand  for  the  book,  but  at  the  same  time  to 
put  the  book-business  in  Egypt  on  a proper  and 
satisfactory  footing,  and  to  maintain  and  further 
establish  our  reputation  as  men  of  one  price. 

We  here  made  the  acquaintance  of  a man 
named  Ibrahim  (I  have  forgotten  the  rest  of  his 
name),  another  of  “ Egypt’s  Princes.”  He  had 
formerly  been  a very  bigoted  Copt,  but  on  a 
visit  which  he  made  to  Cairo  some  time  before, 
he  had  met  our  good  Father  Makhiel,  and  he , 
together  with  the  books  he  had  taken  with  him, 
had  enlightened  him.  I found  him  to  be  not 
only  a man  enlightened  in  religion,  but  what  is 
unusual  among  the  Copts,  a man  of  a good  deal 
of  literary  taste,  so  that  he  purchased  copies  of 
all  the  new  books  we  had  on  poetry  and  litera- 
ture, as  well  as  those  on  religion.  The  next 
morning  before  leaving,  I called  on  him  and  the 
other  Coptic  scribes  at  the  Divan.  As  he  was 
head  scribe,  he  was  setting  in  the  chief  place, 


332 


Egypt’s  princes. 


while  the  others,  fifteen  or  twenty  in  number, 
were  sitting  around  behind  their  small  desks 
and  big  account  books.  He  was  smoking,  which 
was  an  unusual  sight,  as  it  was  fast-day,  and 
prayers  were  not  yet  through.  He  handed  me 
the  pipe  and  called  for  coffee,  while  the  others 
looked  dubiously  on.  In  the  mean  time  I dis- 
tributed specimens  of  our  books  for  them  to 
examine,  when  in  came  a tall,  stalwart  priest. 
He  took  the  seat  pointed  out  to  him,  and  then 
looking  at  the  pipe  which  I had  passed  back  to 
our  friend,  and  the  coffee-cups,  he  opened  con- 
versation by  saying : “ The  Muslems  are  fasting 
Ramadan,  and  the  Christians  are  fasting,  and 
what  are  you  doing?”  Quietly  applying  the 
amber  to  his  lips,  he  took  a deliberate  inhalation, 
and  said : “ I am  smoking  my  pipe,”  and  then 
passed  it  back  to  me.  A Testament  was  just 
lying  beside  the  priest,  and  I asked  him  to  do 
me  the  favor  to  pass  it.  He  did  so,  and  turning 
to  Col.  ii.  16,  I handed  it  back  and  asked  him  to 
read.  He  read  the  verse,  when  I,  taking  my 
puff,  said,  “Paul  says,  ‘Let  no  man  judge  you 
in  meat  or  drink,’  etc.,  and  whence  do  you  derive 
your  authority  to  judge  us  ?”  A suppressed  tit- 
ter burst  from  those  sitting  around,  and  our 
friend  the  priest  picked  himself  up  and  walked 
out,  without  even  leaving  his  “ salaam.” 

We  found  here  a friend  from  Cairo,  who  had 
opened  a dry  goods  shop,  and  as  he  seemed 


A SICK  CASE. 


333 


willing  to  aid  a few  books  to  his  stock  in  trade, 
we  left  with  him  a quantity  of  kinds  that  we 
had  in  abundance. 

2 d.  This  morning,  after  we  had  steam  up,  and 
were  just  about  casting  off  from  the  shore, 
Makhiel  came  running  down  with  word  that  a 
man  named  Hannah  Egawell,  from  Cairo,  was  in 
the  town  sick,  and  wanted  medicine.  This  man 
is  one  of  the  Council  (Presbytery)  of  Twelve 
connected  with  the  Patriarchate  at  Cairo,  and  a 
man  of  great  weight  and  influence.  He  had 
been  a Government  scribe,  and  had  received  a 
pension  of  land  back  of  Minyeh,  and  I found 
that  on  riding  out  to  see  it  yesterday,  which 
was  a hot  day,  he  had  been  sun-struck.  He  was 
suffering  greatly,  and  in  great  fear  and  excite- 
ment lest  he  should  die  there,  away  from  his 
home  and  friends.  Jlis  complexion  and  eyes 
showed  that  he  had  a superabundance  of  bile, 
and  I sent  up  to  him  a heavy  dose  of  blue  pill  and 
oil.  He  clung  to  us,  and  piteously  besought  us 
to  take  him  with  us  in  the  steamer,  so  that  he 
might  die  at  Cairo,  but  to  remove  him  then 
could  not  be  thought  of.  The  medicine  proved 
just  the  thing  for  him,  for  a few  days  after  he 
had  so  far  recovered  that  he  could  be  carried  to 
his  Daliabiyeh  in  which  he  overtook  us  at  Beui- 
souef.  That  little  circumstance  created  for  us 
an  influential  friend  in  the  high  places  of  the 
Coptic  Church.  He  still  clings  to  it  that  our 


334 


Egypt’s  princes. 


faith  and  medicine  saved  him,  and  seems  never 
to  weary  with  telling  how  we  took  the  pains 
after  steam  was  np,  and  we  all  ready  for  start- 
ing, to  go  and  see  him.  Whenever  now  in  Cairo 
he  is  taken  sick,  he  sends  at  once  for  me,  and  if 
the  doctor  must  come,  he  will  not  have  him,  ex- 
cept “ at  my  hand.”  He  is  a pious  and  intelli- 
gent man  but  very  superstitious. 

Just  before  evening  we  reached  Calosineth, 
and  took  a hasty  turn  through  the  streets  with  our 
books,  but  met  with  no  success.  The  next  day, 
the  3d,  was  a market  day.  Most  of  the  large 
towns  of  Egypt  have  a weekly  market,  when 
the  peasants  from  the  neighboring  smaller  vil- 
lages come  together  to  buy  and  sell,  bringing 
with  them  whatever  they  have  for  sale.  We 
have  found  these  markets  an  admirable  institu- 
tion for  our  book-selling  craft.  Their  great 
draw  back  is  that  many  of  them  are  held  on  the 
Sabbath,  which  is  a great  temptation  to  the 
Christians  to  Sabbath  profanation. 

The  next  day  we  sold  well  at  Sharubiyeh,  and 
another  village,  and  afterward  repented  much 
that  we  did  not  go  to  Sharone,  which  is  some 
distance  back  in  the  country,  in  which  there  is  a 
strong  Protestant  element.  Indeed  the  priests 
and  the  people  have  since,  by  common  consent, 
removed  the  pictures  which  formerly  they  wor- 
shiped, from  the  church,  and  instituted  other  re- 
forms. 


BENISOUEF — PAYOUM. 


335 


We  then  went  down  to  Benisouef  where  we 
found  the  “ Ibis”  awaiting  us.  Mr.  Riley  and  I 
now  both  wished  to  reach  Cairo  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible ; he  to  avoid  the  hot  winds  of  the  Kham- 
seen  {fifty,  so  called,  because,  commencing  about 
the  first  of  April,  they  prevail  for  fifty  days), 
and  I,  if  possible,  to  overtake  and  see  Brother 
McCague  before  his  departure  for  America,  and 
to  take  his  place  in  the  mission  at  Cairo.  We 
had  therefore  sent  word  to  the  brethren  at 
Cairo  to  have  the  “ Ibis”  sent  to  meet  us  here. 
We  were  now  the  more  l’eady  to  hasten  home, 
as  between  Benisouef  and  Cairo  there  are  not 
many  villages,  and  in  them  but  few  Copts.  The 
district,  however,  of  the  Fayoum  remained,  in 
which  there  is  a large  Coptic  population.  It  is 
a day’s  journey  back  of  Benisouef,  and  is  the 
region  of  the  Labyrinth,  and  the  artificial  Lake 
Moeris,  both  so  famed  in  days  of  old.  It  is 
still  watered  by  Bahr  Tuseph,  which  formerly 
fed  Lake  Moeris,  and  is  the  garden  of  Egypt,  as 
Egypt  is  of  the  world. 

Besides  my  reasons  for  reaching  Cairo  as  soon 
as  possible,  I was  much  worn  with  the  labors 
of  the  trip,  and  did  not  feel  able  to  undertake 
this  excursion,  but  his  Lordship  was  determined 
that  it  too  should  be  supplied,  and  so  we  rigged 
out  Monsur  with  a load  of  books  and  dispatched 
him  thither. 

I must  tell  something  of  the  effects  of  that 


336 


Egypt's  princes. 


load  of  books,  as  they  were  subsequently  de- 
veloped. Among  the  purchasers  was  Priest 
Makar,  the  nephew  of  the  Bishop  of  the  Fa- 
youm.  Providence  put  into  his  hands  Masha- 
kah’s  book,  and  he  had  not  read  far  in  it  before 
he  said  to  himself:  “It  cannot  be  that  this  man 
quotes  the  Scriptures  correctly.  The  Bible  is  not 
thus  against  ns.”  He  took  the  book  to  the 
church  and  compared  passage  with  passage  in 
the  manuscript  copies  of  the  Scriptures  there. 
He  found  that  there  were  only  verbal  variations, 
and  that  even  in  these,  it  was  evident  that 
Mashakah  had  the  better  reading.  He  then  re- 
turned to  Mashakah  with  new  zest,  and  mas- 
tered the  argument,  making  an  abstract  of  the 
passages  of  the  Scriptures,  which  were  against 
them.  He  thus  quietly  satisfied  his  own  mind, 
and  then  commenced  to  act  accordingly.  His 
first  overt  act  was  on  the  occasion  of  the  baptism 
of  a child,  when  he  proceeded  to  perform  the 
ceremony  in  Arabic,  instead  of  Coptic.  The 
startled  people  sprang  up  in  the  church  and  cried, 
“ What  do  you  mean  ? Where  is  your  Coptic  ? 
Have  you  forgotten  your  Coptic.”  He  quietly 
quoted  Paul,  “ that  five  words  with  the  under- 
standing were  better  than  ten  thousand  words 
in  an  unknown  tongue,”  when  they  allowed 
him  to  proceed.  This  opened  the  whole  sub- 
ject, and  for  fourteen  successive  days  priest  and 
people  met  in  the  church,  and  read  Mashakah’s 


PRIEST  MAKAR. 


337 


book,  and  comparing  his  quotations  from  the 
Scriptures  with  their  own  manuscript  copies, 
and  thoroughly  sifting  the  whole  controversy. 

There  was  already  in  the  place  a small  Prot- 
estant nucleus.  Many  years  ago  Messrs.  Leider 
and  Kruse  of  the  English  mission,  had  taken 
them  the  Bible,  and  live  years  before  Bro.  Bar- 
nett and  I had  made  them  another  flying  visit, 
and  taken  them  another  importation  of  the  truth. 
Of  the  results  of  the  reading  of  the  copies  of 
the  Scriptures  thus  introduced,  we  know  little, 
except  that  two  men  had  become  convinced  of 
the  corruption  of  the  Church,  and  had  indeed 
seceded  from  her,  and  been  excommunicated. 
They  have  since  worshiped  in  their  own  houses 
after  a form  invented  by  themselves,  with  the 
light  of  the  Scriptures.  One  of  these  men  has 
since  visited  us  at  Cairo,  and  we  found  him  a very 
intelligent,  earnest-minded  man,  but  with  strange 
notions  on  some  points,  and  the  other  is  re- 
ported to  be  even  superior  to  him. 

The  Bishop  is  an  old  inefficient  man,  who, 
report  says,  is  principally  noted  for  the  facility 
with  which  he  grants  illegal  divorces  to  those 
who  have  been  unhappily  matched,  for  a con- 
sideration. lie  therefore  could  not  be  supposed 
able  to  cope  with  this  new  state  of  things,  and 
besides, one  of  the  leaders  in  the  movement  was 
his  own  nephew,  the  Priest  Makar.  Two  other 
nephews  in  his  house  were  deeply  imbued  with 
29 


338 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


the  new  doctrine,  and  the  three  managed  the 
old  man.  Finally,  those  who  were  still  zealous 
for  the  “ traditions  of  the  fathers”  wrote  to  the 
Patriarch  at  Cairo,  petitioning  him  to  interpose 
with  a Coptic  bull,  for  the  crushing  of  this  new 
sect,  and  stating  that  there  were  in  Madinet  El 
F ayoum  sixty  families  of  Protestants.  W e think 
their  fears  greatly  magnified,  and  that  there 
could  not  have  been  so  many,  but  such  was 
their  statement.  The  Patriarch  thinking  that 
Makar  must  be  the  soul  of  the  movement,  and 
that  they  could  manage  him  if  they  could  only 
get  him  to  Cairo,  sent  an  order  for  him  to  come 
at  once,  and  it  was  talked  that  he  had  even 
made  application  to  the  Government  to  have  him 
brought  in  chains.  But  that  was  after  the  affair 
of  Faris,  and  it  had  been  settled  that  that  sort 
of  dealing  would  not  answer  with  Protestants  and 
so  it  was  not  attempted.  He  refused  to  come,  but 
finally  as  we  wished  to  see  him  that  we  might 
hear  the  whole  story,  and  further  instruct  him  in 
the  truth,  we  sent  for  him.  We  found  him  a 
not  particularly  bright,  but  an  earnest,  and  de- 
cided man  ; much  such  a character  as  Kiddes  of 
Esneh.  We  exhorted  him,  as  far  as  in  him  lay, 
to  follow  after  the  things  which  pertain  to  peace 
in  his  intercourse  with  the  Patriarch  and  his 
brother  priests.  In  accordance  with  this  advice, 
he  allowed  himself  soon  after  to  be  taken  to  the 
Patriarch’s  cathedral  in  Cairo.  When  once 


CONTRITION — jjLIND  PREACHER. 


339 


there  they  beset  him  to  engage  in  the  services, 
but  he  refused.  Finally,  they  forced  a censer 
into  his  hand,  and  holding  his  hand  clasped 
upon  the  chain,  they  dragged  him  up  to  the  Pa- 
triarch, and  waved  his  hand  ; so  that  he  thus,  by 
passive  consent  at  least,  burned  incense  be- 
fore this  earthly  god.  He  was  led  to  this 
act  of  compliance  by  their  earnest  representa- 
tions that  should  he  not  do  it,  his  Holiness 
would  be  highly  offended,  and  that  it  would  be 
a great  shame  to  him  not  to  offer  him  this  small 
tribute. 

But  the  act  was  no  sooner  performed  than 
contrition  seized  him.  He  thought  of  his  mar- 
tyr ancestors,  so  many  of  whom  cheerfully  gave 
up  their  lives  rather  than  throw  a pinch  of  in- 
cense upon  a heathen  altar.  He  rushed  to  the 
house  where  he  was  staying  with  his  cousins, 
and  they  afterwards  told  me  that  he  locked 
himself  up  in  a room  where  he  remained  two 
days  and  two  nights  without  food,  while  they 
from  without  could  hear  him  weeping  and 
praying  for  forgiveness.  He  will  never  again, 
even  by  compliance,  burn  incense  to  the  Pa- 
triarch. 

Some  time  after  this,  Makhiel,  one  of  the  elders 
of  our  church  at  Cairo  and  a blind  man,  who  in 
the  days  of  his  youth  had  been  a Government 
scribe,  received  from  the  Government  a pension 
of  land  in  the  Fayoum.  He  wished  to  go  and  see 


340 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


his  land  and  to  make  arrangements  with  the 
peasants  for  having  it  productive.  This  Mak- 
hiel  has  for  years  been  an  efficient  evangelist  in 
Cairo.  He  is  a good  man  and  has  an  extensive 
knowledge  of  the  Scriptures.  His  custom  was 
to  hold  a meeting,  which  for  several  years  was 
in  the  house  of  Mr.  Leider,  of  the  English  mis- 
sion, in  which  one  of  those  present  would  read 
a chapter  or  two,  and  then  Makhiel  would  ex- 
plain the  passages  read.  In  this  way,  a blind 
man — or  rather,  as  the  Arabs  describe  such,  one 
whose  eyes  are  of  the  heart — has  been  the  means 
of  giving  light  to  many  of  the  spiritually  blind 
of  Cairo. 

As  he  was  about  leaving  for  the  Fayoum,  with 
his  sister,  who  is  also  almost  as  blind,  we  told  him 
that  if  he  could  make  himself  useful  in  further 
instructing  in  the  way  of  truth  those  new-fledged 
Protestants,  we  would  be  pleased  if  he  should 
remain  there  some  time.  He  had  not  been  there 
long  before  word  wras  sent  to  us  that  the  people 
of  the  Fayoum  were  much  pleased  with  his  ex- 
positions of  Scripture,  and  wished  him  to  re- 
main. lie  remained  there  several  months,  and 
recent  word  from  Cairo  shows  that  he  found 
there  an  open  door  for  the  Gospel. 

We  spent  two  days  pleasantly  and  profitably 
at  Benisouef,  and  took  steps  for  the  establish- 
ment of  a school,  of  which  an  account  will  be 
found  in  the  next  chapter,  and  then — 


ARRIVED  AT  CAIRO. 


341 


April  !th.  Mr.  Riley  and  we  removed  to  the 
“ Ibis”  and  hoisted  over  her  again  the  stars  and 
stripes,  and  on  the  9th  we  reached  Cairo.  The 
Khamseen  winds  commenced  the  next  day. 


29* 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


THE  PRESIDENT  TO  THE  VICEROY. 

ABRAHAM  LINCOLN,  President  of  the  United  States  of 
America,  to  His  Highness  MOHAMMED  SAID  PACHA, 
Viceroy  of  Egypt  and  its  Dependencies,  etc.,  etc.,  etc. : 

Great  and  Good  Friend — I have  received 
from  Mr.  Thayei-,  Consul  General  of  the  United 
States  at  Alexandria,  a full  account  of  the  liberal, 
enlightened,  and  energetic  proceedings  which, 
on  his  complaint,  you  have  adopted,  in  bringing 
to  speedy  and  condign  punishment  the  parties, 
subjects  of  your  Highness  in  Upper  Egypt,  who 
were  conceimed  in  an  act  of  cruel  persecution 
against  Faris,  an  agent  of  certain  Christian  mis 
sionaries  in  Upper  Egypt. 

I pray  your  Highness  to  be  assured  that  these 
proceedings,  at  once  so  prompt  and  so  just,  will 
be  regarded  as  a new  and  unmistakable  proof 
equally  of  your  Highness’  friendship  for  the 
United  States,  and  of  the  firmness,  integrity,  and 
wisdom  with  which  the  Government  of  your 
Highness  is  conducted. 

(342) 


OFFICIAL  LETTERS. 


343 


Wishing  you  great  prosperity  and  success,  I 
am  your  good  friend, 

Abraham  Lincoln. 

Washington , October  9,  1801. 

By  the  President : 

William  II.  Seward,  Secretary  of  State. 

THE  VICEROY  TO  THE  PRESIDENT. 

To  the  Honorable  ABRAHAM  LINCOLN,  President  of  the 

United  States  of  America: 

Honorable  Sir  and  Friend — Mr.  Thayer, 
Consul  General  of  the  United  States  at  Alexan- 
dria, has  presented  me  the  letter  you  were  pleased 
to  write  me,  expressing  your  feelings  of  satisfac- 
tion for  the  punishment  which  I have  indicted 
on  some  individuals  guilty  of  evil  and  cruel  treat- 
ment towards  an  agent  of  certain  Christian  mis- 
sionaries in  Upper  Egypt.  Mr.  Thayer,  who  I 
am  happy  to  say,  entertains  with  me  the  most 
friendly  relations,  had  already  expressed  to  me 
the  feelings  of  your  Government. 

In  this  case,  honorable  sir  and  friend,  I have 
only  executed  the  rule  which  I have  always  en- 
deavored to  follow,  in  protecting,  in  an  equal 
way  and  without  consideration  of  creed,  all  those 
who,  either  by  inclination  or  for  the  fulfillment  of 
a duty,  sojourn  in  the  country  submitted  to  my 
administration. 

I am  profoundly  sensible  of  the  friendly  man- 


344 


Egypt’s  princes. 


ner  in  which  you  express  your  sentiments  both 
to  myself  and  to  my  Government,  and  I pray 
you,  honorable  sir  and  friend,  to  accept  with  this 
offering  of  my  thanks,  my  sincere  wishes  for  the 
success,  perpetuity,  and  integrity  of  the  Ameri- 
can Union,  which,  I hope,  under  your  able  presi- 
dency, will  soon  see  an  end  of  the  trials  with 
which  the  Almighty  has  been  pleased  to  afflict  it. 

Your  most  devoted  friend, 

Mohammed  Said. 

Alexandria,  November  21,  1861. 

The  foregoing  are  copies  of  the  letter  sent  by 
our  President  to  his  Highness,  the  Viceroy  of 
Egypt,  thanking  him  for  his  prompt  and  vigo- 
rous action  in  punishing  the  perpetrators  of  the 
outrage  upon  our  man  Faris  at  Osiout,  and  the 
Viceroy’s  answer,  for  the.  sending  of  which  for 
publication,  our  Consul  has  received  the  necessary 
permission.  It  is  a document  which  deserves 
publication,  even  to  the  ends  of  Christendom. 
It  is  a firman  of  religious  toleration,  and  it  is 
clear  and  explicit,  and  not  as  such  documents 
have  too  often  been,  equivocal  in  its  terms  and 
dubious  in  meaning , and  what  is  best  of  all  it 
is  a “ word”  after  a “ blow.”  The  saying,  “ A 
word  and  a blow,”  will  not  answer  here,  where 
people  have  become  accustomed  to  thousands 
of  words  without  any  corresponding  action. 

But  I will  give  a few  facts  in  connection  with 


PUNISHMENT  AND  RELEASE. 


345 


that  case,  showing  its  effects.  When  the  Vice- 
roy gave  the  sentence,  he  was  on  the  eve  of  de- 
parting for  the  capital  to'visit  the  new  Sultan. 
Before  leaving,  he  stated  to  Mr.  Thayer  that 
some  of  the  men  sentenced,  and  especially  El 
Kasliif,  were  men  of  such  influence  in  the  coun- 
try that  he  feared  evil  might  result  from  their 
long  imprisonment,  and  requested  him,  as  a 
special  favor,  in  the  course  of  a month  or  so,  to 
ask  for  their  pardon.  The  Viceroy  returned 
after  a month,  and  soon  after  Mr.  Thayer  asked 
him  to  release  the  men  from  imprisonment  and 
pardon  them,  which  was  done.  In  the  mean- 
time we  had  been  receiving  letters  from  Faris, 
showing  tfiat  the  most  happy  effects  had  followed 
the  execution  of  the  sentence  of  the  Viceroy, 
but  which  led  us  to  fear  that  the  new  popularity, 
and,  indeed,  power  which  Faris  had  acquired  in 
Osiout  might  prove  a snare  to  him,  and  that  he 
might  compromise  himself  and  us ; and  as  he 
Was  also  writing  very  urgently  for  one  of  us  to 
come  and  assist  in  the  work  which  had  now  re- 
ceived a great  impulse,  the  brethren  decided 
that  I should  go. 

Oct.  9 tli,  1861.  Left  Old  Cairo  at  104  a.  m.,  in 
“ Ibis,”  bound  for  Osiout.  Company,  Mrs.  L. 
and  baby,  and  Miss  D.  still  suffering  from  her 
recent  severe  attack  of  illness,  and  hoping  for 
renewed  vigor  from  the  more  balmy  breezes  of 
the  Said.  A strong  north  wind  has  all  day 


346 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


driven  us  careering  over  the  turbid  waves  and 
headlong  torrent  of  the  Nile.  The  Nile  ! but 
truly  this  is  no  longer  our  old  friend  the  placid, 
thought-inspiring  Nile,  quietly  wending  his  way 
between  the  dark  brown  banks,  with  a rich 
store  of  freighted  wealth.  It  is  as  if  the  land  of 
Egypt  were  liquified,  and,  boiling  in  its  rocky 
basin  of  the  Arabian  and  Syrian  hills,  were  pour- 
ing itself  in  thick,  dark,  turbid  waves  into  the 
briny  deep.  It'is  said  that  the  Nileometer  records 
show  that  in  a century  there  has  not  been  such 
an  inundation,  and  we  have  all  day  witnessed 
sad  proofs  how  unprepared  the  country  was 
for  such  a flood.  Dykes,  canals,  gardens,  fields, 
hamlets,  and  villages  are  all  being  swept  away 
by  the  desolating  element ; and  many  lives  have 
been  lost.  This  afternoon  we  passed  three 
corpses  thrown  upon  a low  bank.  Two  of  them 
were  in  ghastly  embrace ; the  clasp  it  may  be 
of  desperate  self-preservation,  now  stiffened  in 
death — the  embrace  we  will  trust  it  was  of  two 
loving  hearts,  united  in  life  and  tenderly  clinging 
i to  each  other  as  they  met  their  fate.  It  is  most 
pitiful  to  behold  the  half-famished  flocks  and 
herds,  with  groups  of  homeless,  desolate  men, 
women,  and  children  clinging  to  the  remnant  of 
their  dissolving  villages,  or  (these  being  already 
swept  away)  clustering  upon  little  knolls  and 
patches  of  rising  ground,  gazing  in  stupid  horror 
and  dread  apprehension  upon  the  encroaching, 


A SCENE  ON  THE  NILE. 


347 


all-devouring  flood.  Thus,  of  old,  God  sent  his 
deluge  to  sweep  away  a sinful  race.  May  this 
deluge  prove  a purifying  baptism  to  sin-polluted 
Egypt ! 

The  scene,  as  I took  my  evening  promenade 
upon  the  deck,  was  at  once  beautiful  and  sub- 
lime : 

“ Heaven’s  ethereal  bow. 

Spanning  with  bright  arch  the  glittering  hills  below.” 

The  setting  sun  tinging  those  hills  with  purple 
while  bathing  in  lurid  light  the  vast  inclosed  ex- 
panse— the  groves  of  tall  palms,  their  feet  bathed 
in  the  flood,  but  rearing  far  aloft  their  Corinthian 
heads  and  golden  clusters  — the  deep  green 
clumps  of  accacias  opening  up  far-reaching  vistas 
of  the  watery  waste ; now  gleaming  in  the 
slanting  rays  of  the  setting  sun — the  villages 
with  their  tall  minarets,  like  huge  hulks  disman- 
tled and  drifting  o’er  the  flood — the  vast  fields 
totally  submerged,  or  covered  with  the  tufted 
tops  of  cane  and  Indian  corn  still*  struggling  for 
supremacy — and  here  and  there  the  now  silent 
and  ruined  sakias,  or  shadoof  posts  standing  in 
pairs  like  sad  sentinels  over  the  widfe-spread  ruin. 
These,  together  with  the  many  lateen-sailed 
craft,  like  great  white-winged  birds  gliding  hither 
and  thither,  or  hovering  like  angels  of  light  over 
the  dark  watery  waste,  are  elements  of  distant 
enchantment,  combined , with  present  surround 


348 


Egypt’s  princes. 


ing  desolation,  dismay,  and  death  which  would 
have  repaid  the  poet  Campbell  for  a pilgrimage 
to  Egypt  before  prefixing  his  matchless  frontis- 
piece to  his  “ Pleasures  of  Hope.” 

Mrs.  L.,  Miss  Dales  (who  was  just  recovering 
from  a severe  attack  of  illness,  and  very  much 
needed  the  change),  and  I,  prepared  to  depart, 
and  we  left  Cairo  on  Wednesday,  the  9th  October, 
in  our  favorite  “ Ibis.”  The  “ Ibis”  gave  us,  as 
usual,  a swift  passage,  and  on  Saturday,  the  12th, 
we  reached  Osiout.  As  our  arrival  was  unex- 
pected, I immediately  went  up  to  ascertain  the 
“statu  quo”  of  affairs.  I found  Faris  with  his 
house  full — pupils,  parents,  patients,  people  from 
Osiout  and  the  surrounding  villages,  seeking  his 
interference  in  all  sorts  of  political,  priestly,  and 
family  troubles  — in  short,  he  was  evidently 
“master  of  the  position,”  and  the  centre  of  a 
powerful  influence,  which  was  quite  a contrast 
to  his  former  state,  when  for  weeks,  and  even 
months,  while  under  the  priestly  ban,  he  could 
scarcely  find  a man  to  return  his  salutation.  We 
remained  ten  days,  and  were  happy  to  find  that 
he  had  shown  as  much  prudence  and  tact  in 
prosperity,  as  he  had  fortitude  and  endurance  in 
adversity. 

I can  describe  but  a small  part  of  what  took 
place  during  those  ten  days.  I will  only  attempt 
to  state  a few  facts,  showing  the  new  direction 
which  the  popular  current  has  taken. 


FARIS. 


349 


In  the  first  place,  Faris  had  been  instrumental 
in  saving  another  woman  from  the  meshes  of 
Islam.  It  was,  even  more  clearly  than  the  other, 
a case  in  which  the  woman  had  been  forced 
against  her  will  to  marry  a Moslem,  or  rather, 
he  laid  claim  to  her  as  his  betrothed,  for  the 
marriage  had  not  yet  been  consummated. 

Another  case  will  be  sufficient  to  show  his  po- 
litical influence.  The  Nile  was  unusually  high 
this  year.  In  many  places  it  did  immense  dam- 
age to  the  country  and  crops,  and  the  people 
were  doing  all  they  could  in  building  up  the 
dykes  to  keep  out  the  overflowing  flood,  which, 
at  many  points,  was  even  sweeping  away  the 
villages.  In  a village  near  Osiout,  the  Sheikh, 
(Moslem,)  called  out  the  people  for  this  purpose, 
and  he  very  -wantonly  had  them  take  away  the 
dirt  from  around  the  church  to  put  upon  the 
dyke,  in  a way  which  left  the  church  exposed  to 
be  undermined  and  ruined  by  the  waters.  The 
priest  went  over  and  entered  his  complaint  with 
Faris.  The  latter  finally  consented  to  go  and 
see.  He  took  with  him  a number  of  influential 
Copts  from  Osiout,  and  went  to  the  house  of  a 
friend  near  the  Sheikh’s  house.  The  villagers 
crowded  in,  and  among  them  a spy  from  the 
Sheikh.  Faris  seeing  this,  began  to  talk  largely. 
He  said  that  the  Sheikh  thought  he  could  do  any 
thing  because  he  was  wealthy  and  had  some 
land;  “but,”  he  added,  “we  will  see  what  \HI1 
30 


350 


EGYPT’S  PRINCES. 


happen  to  him.  El  Kashif  also  had  land,  and 
his  wives  had  since  needed  it  to  cast  upon  their 
heads,”  etc.,  etc.  The  spy  left,  and  the  sheikh 
soon  came  and  kissed  Fans’  hands  and  head  and 
begged  for  quarter.  Faris  told  him  that  he  must 
take  back  the  earth  which  he  had  removed  from 
the  foundations  of  the  church,  which  he  prom- 
ised to  do,  and  it  was  done. 

As  to  the  prisoners,  the  telegraphic  wires  had 
been  broken  by  the  flood,  and  so  the  pardon 
had  been  delayed  nearly  two  weeks ; and,  on 
reaching  there,  I was  much  surprised  to  find 
that  it  had  only  reached  a few  hours  before,  and 
the  prisoners  had  been  released  only  that  after- 
noon. The  whole  town  was  in  an  excitement 
of  wonder,  and  especially  when  they  heard  that 
the  pardon  had  been  granted  at  our  request. 
This  they  could  not  understand.  They  crowded 
around  us,  Christians  and  Muslems,  and  asked 
how  it  was.  The  Muslems  were  full  of  joy. 
Some  of  the  Christians  slily  hinted  that  we 
should  have  left  them  to  finish  their  year.  I 
told  them  that,  after  having  given  them  an 
example  of  the  justice  of  the  Gospel,  we  wished 
also  to  show  them  its  clemency  and  mercy ; and 
to  the  Muslems  I said  : “ The  Koran  imprisoned 
you,  and  the  Gospel  set  you  free.”  The  day 
after  our  arrival,  El  Kashif  sent  word  that  he 
wished  to  call  on  us.  I sent  back  that  I did  not 
receive  calls  on  Sabbath,  and,  besides,  that  1 had 


EL  KASHIF  CORNERED. 


351 


no  particular  desire  to  see  him,  after  what  he 
had  done.  The  next  day,  however,  I heard 
tilings  concerning  him,  which  convinced  me  that 
he  was  truly  penitent  of  what  he  had  done,  and, 
on  the  repetition  of  his  request  to  be  permitted 
to  -call,  I consented.  He  came,  and  with  him 
and  after  him  about  fifty  of  the  chief  of  the  Copts. 
After  getting  as  many  of  them  seated  as  we 
could,  and  the  usual  complimentary  pipes  and 
coffee,  I handed  him  my  copy  of  the  Koran.  He 
looked  at  it,  and  said : “ The  Koran — and  a fine 
copy  it  is.”  I said:  “Yes;  proceed  now.”  He 
answered : “ How  ? With  what  ?”  I said, 
quoting  a passage  from  the  book  he  held  : “ Pro- 
duce your  proof,  if  ye  be  true.”  He  was  con- 
fused, and  endeavored  to  avoid  the  issue.  I 
said  : “No,  but  you  must  bring  your  proofs  for 
this  religion,  for  which  you  have  shown  your- 
self so  valiant.  You  have  tried  the  sword  with 
us,  and  found  that  it  would  not  work.  That 
time  is  past ; but  we  are  ready  to  hear  proofs, 
and,  if  conclusive,  to  receive  your  religion.”  He 
still  declined.  Then  I said : “ I find  some  diffi- 
culties in  this  book,  of  which  I wish  your  solu- 
tion.” I stated  a couple,  when  he,  finding  the 
matter  was  turning  against  him,  turned  it  off  in 
a pleasant  way,  saying,  “ I am  not  the  man  for 
this ; you  will  have  to  send  for  El  Ghouse.”  (El 
Ghouse  was  one  of  the  culprits,  and  a most  fa- 
natical man  against  the  Christians,  as  veil  as  ob- 


352 


Egypt’s  princes. 


uoxious  to  the  Muslems,  he  having  made  an  at- 
tempt to  get  up  a fifth  sect  in  Islam.  I am  sorry 
to  say  that  this  man  escaped  the  punishment 
which  he  so  justly  deserved.  His  name  was 
mentioned  in  Fans’  letters,  but  not  amongst  the 
thirteen  at  the  head  of  the  Kadi’s  letter,  and'  so 
he  was  overlooked,  which  all  classes  at  Osiout 
lamented.)  I said : “ Then  why  did  you  what 
you  did?  You  certainly  see  that  such  an  out- 
rage was  against  both  the  laws  of  religion  and 
humanity.”  He  answered : “ It  was  a tempta- 
tion of  the  devil.”  This  closed  the  matter,  and 
our  subsequent  conversation  was  very  agreeable. 
Indeed,  he  seemed  an  amiable  sort  of  man,  and 
all  the  Christians  bore  witness  to  the  truth  of  his 
assertion,  that  he  and  his  family  had  always  be- 
fore shown  themselves  friendly  to  them.  I had 
a word  ready  for  them  also.  (The  Arabs  always 
divide  the  whole  of  a thing  into  twenty-four 
parts,  for  the  denominator  of  their  fractions,  as 
we  do  into  ten  in  our  decimals.)  I told  them 
that  twenty  out  of  the  twenty-four  shares  of  the 
guilt  of  the  outrage  upon  Faris  belonged  to  them 
— that  we  had  come  to  them  with  brotherly 
love  in  our  hearts  and  the  Bible  in  our  hands, 
and  that  they,  from  the  first,  unlike  the  people 
of  all  Upper  Egypt,  had  met  us  with  coolness 
and  jealousy  and  excommunications,  and  that 
thus  their  treatment  of  Faris  and  our  cause  had 
emboldened  the  Muslems  to  do  wdiat  they  had 


A GRAND  DINNER. 


353 


done.  This  charge  was  too  true  to  be  denied, 
but  they  promised  for  the  future  to  do  better. 

El  Kashif,  on  leaving,  invited  us  to  call  and 
take  colfee  Avith  him  the  next  day,  and  at  ten 
o’clock  the  next  morning,  he  sent  his  donkeys 
and  servants  to  take  us  up.  The  ladies  could 
not  go,  so  I went  alone,  little  anticipating  the 
reception  which  had  been  prepared.  lie  had 
invited  a number  of  the  leading  Copts,  together 
with  Faris  and  our  other  adherents — and,  when 
the  time  came,  a grand  dinner  was  brought  on 
the  carpet,  opening  with  a sheep,  roasted  whole, 
and  followed  by  turkeys,  chickens,  etc.,  to  the 
extent  of  some  thirty  courses.  Faris  and  I sat 
one  on  each  side  of  him,  and  he  took  particular 
pains  to  show  his  good  will  to  Faris;  among 
other  things,  saying,  that  if  ever  any  thing  else 
happened  to  him,  Ave  must  hold  him  responsible. 
The  day  Avas  mostly  spent  in  discussion  of  the 
truths  of  Christianity,  and,  I trust,  to  us  profit- 
ably. 

Faris  had  been  able  to  re-open  the  school, 
which  contained,  when  Ave  Avere  there,  fifteen 
boys,  and  avc  hear  that  it  is  since  growing. 
This,  notwithstanding  that  some  of  the  priests 
are  still  doing  all  they  can  against  it,  but  not 
noAV  openly,  as  before.  The  Bishop  is  very  fa- 
Arorable  to  our  cause,  but  he  is  a simple-minded 
old  man,  Avho  has  not  much  influence. 

We  brought  Faris  with  us.  His  wife  and 
30* 


354 


Egypt’s  princes. 


child  were  in  Khums,  and  he  was  longing  to  see 
them.  Poor  fellow,  he  was  much  more  severely 
beaten,  than  even  his  letters  gave  us  to  under- 
stand. It  is  a great  wonder  how  he  escaped 
with  his  life — and  it  would  hardly  have  been 
possible,  but  that  he  was  a very  strong,  vigorous 
man.  As  it  was,  he  received  a severe  blow  on 
the  back  with  a club,  which,  we  fear,  has  affected 
his  right  lung,  as  he  has  ever  since  had  a severe 
pain  in  it,  and  all  the  way  down,  and  until  he 
left  here,  he  coughed  terribly. 

Cairo,  Dec.  2 Olh,  1861.  We  left  Osiout  on 
Tuesday,  and  as  we  had  left  Monsur  at  Cairo  to 
officiate  at  our  Sabbath  services  with  the  inten- 
tion of  only  being  absent  two  Sabbaths,  we 
wished  to  reach  there  by  Saturday  evening,  so 
that  our  time  was  limited,  and  we  could  only  stop 
at  the  “ Benders,”  or  large  towns. 

We  made  our  first  halt  at  Manfalout.  Here 
in  our  journey  down  last  Winter,  Father  Makhiel 
found  an  enlightened  priest  named  Botros.  I 
ylid  not  then  see  him,  as  I immediately,  on  reach- 
ing the  town,  had  started  up  to  Deir  El  Muhar- 
rak,  the  largest  Coptic  convent  in  Egypt,  about 
three  hours  back  of  the  town  in  the  mountains. 

Faris  and  I,  after  some  difficulty,  and  a long 
walk  through  the  town,  found  the  house  of  Bo- 
tros, and  were  happy  to  find  him  at  home.  He 
knew  not  at  first  who  we  were,  nor  did  we  take 


“ WILL  NOT  WORSHIP  WOOD.”  355 

the  pains  to  inform  him.  The  conversation  soon 
turned  upon  the  subject  of  image-worship.  lie 
expressed  himself  clearly,  but  at  first  cautiously, 
on  the  Protestant  side  of  the  controversy,  in 
which,  of  course,  I united  with  him.  Faris,  how- 
ever, took  it  into  his  head  to  take,  for  the  time, 
the  opposite  side  of  the  question,  and  urged  the 
usual  arguments  in  favor  of  the  images.  Such 
as,  that  the  devotions  paid  them  were  not  relig- 
ious worship,  but  the  due  honors  which  we  owe 
the  saints  thus  represented ; that  they  are  not 
paid  to  the  wood,  and  canvas,  and  paint  com- 
posing the  images  and  pictures,  but  to  the  Seings 
represented ; that  the  pictures  may  be  useful, 
historically,  to  the  ignorant,  who  cannot  read — 
all  which  our  friend  Botros  met  very  aptly  with 
the  usual  Protestant  refutations,  but  at  length 
cut  short  the  discussion  by  saying,  very  warmly, 
“ I cannot  and  will  not  worship  wood  ; my  heart 
revolts  at  the  idea,  and  that  is  enough.”  But  I 
asked,  “ How  do  you  when  you  go  to  officiate  in 
the  church  ?”  He  answered,  “ I pass  straight  by 
the  images  to  the  altar,  and  do  not  notice  them.” 
“ And  the  people  ?”  “ Some  of  them  still  wor- 

ship them,  and  others  follow  my  example.” 
“And  confession  ? Do  you  confess  the  people  ?” 
“No,  I do  not.  The  people  come  to  me,  and  wish 
me  to  do  it ; but  I tell  them  that  the  Apostle  tells 
us  ‘ that  we  must  confess  our  faults  one  to  another 
by  which  he  means  our  sins  against  one  another ; 


356 


Egypt’s  princes. 


but  that  our  sins  against  God  we  must  confess 
to  Him.”  “And  transubstantiaion  ?”  Again 
sound.  And  thus  we  took  him  through  the  cate- 
gory of  disputed  doctrines.  “ And  whence  did 
you  obtain  these  new  doctrines  ?”  From  Abd 
El  Masieh,  and  from  Meshakah’s  book.”  He 
added,  “ Some  of  the  people  tell  me  I should 
leave  this  book,  and  cling  to  the  Bible  alone  ; but 
I tell  them  that  they  cannot  show  me  one  point 
in  which  the  little  book  opposes  the  big  one,  and 
that,  therefore,  the  little  one  is  the  daughter  of 
the  big  one.” 

He  took  us  to  the  church,  where  we  were  soon 
surrounded  by  a large  concourse  of  people,  and 
there,  surrounded  by  the  stiff,  staring  pictures  of 
saints  and  angels,  we  took  the  opportunity  of 
showing  them  that  the  pictures  were  historically 
false,  blundering  and  ridiculous  in  execution — ■ 
a temptation  to  the  ignorant,  and  a stumbling- 
block  to  the  Muslems  and  others  outside  the 
pale  of  the  church,  and  that  they  should  be  re- 
moved. One  picture  was  a representation  of  the 
judgment  scene,  and  contained  the  scales  in 
which  the  good  and  bad  deeds  of  the  departed 
souls  were  being  balanced,  which  we  told  them 
was  a Muslem  idea,  and  opposed  to  the  doctrine 
of  salvation  by  grace  through  the  atonement  of 
the  Saviour,  and  not  by  works ; and  that  in  the 
gospel,  where  it  is  said  that  our  good  deeds  will 
be  brought  forward  in  the  judgment,  it  is  not 


357 


“ THIS  IS  FARIS.” 

with  the  intention  of  counterbalancing  with  them 
our  evil  works,  but  only  as  evidences  of  our  love 
to  the  Saviour. 

He  then  “ accompanied  us  to  the  ship,”  where, 
giving  him  some  medicine  for  a sick  brother 
whom  we  had  seen  in  the  house , a little  farther 
instruction  to  establish  him  in  the  present  truth, 
and  a couple  of  books,  other  daughters  of  the 
big  one,  with  whom  he  had  not  yet  made  ac- 
quaintance, we  left.  We  told  him  we  were  in- 
tending, if  possible,  to  form  a class  of  enlight- 
ened and  inquiring  priests  in  Cairo,  for  the  study 
of  the  Scriptures.  He  said  that  whenever  we 
should  send  for  him  for  this  purpose,  he  would 
hold  himself  in  readiness  to  come. 

We  found  our  friend  Ibrahim  in  the  divan.  As 
there  were  some  Muslems  present,  before  whom 
we  could  not  talk  freely,  books  and  pens  were 
put  aside,  and  he  and  a few  friends  retired  with 
us  to  a side  rocftn,  where  we  enjoyed,  I trust,  a 
profitable  hour.  They  asked  about  the  Faris 
affair,  of  which  they  had  heard  many  reports,  and 
when  told  “This  is  Faris,”  they  caught  their 
breath  and  looked  at  him  almost  with  the  rever- 
ence with  which  they  would  regard  one  risen 
from  the  dead.  They  seemed  scarcely  to  know 
how  to  express  their  gratitude  to  us  for  our  ac- 
tion in  the  matter,  and  confirmed  the  reports 
which  we  had  heard  in  other  places  respecting 
the  wide  prevalence  of  the  spirit  of  fanaticism  of 


358 


Egypt’s  princes. 


the  Muslems  against  the  Christians  at  the  acces- 
sion of  Abd  El  Aziz,  of  which  we  have  had  such 
a sad  exhibition  at  Osiout.  They  said  emphat- 
ically, that  the  decision  which  we  had  obtained 
was  not  for  Faris  alone,  but  for  our  common 
Christianity. 

They  pressed  us  strongly  to  spend  the  night, 
and  we  were  very  sorry  not  to  be  able  to  do  so ; 
but  the  north  wind,  which  had  thus  far  baffled 
and  retarded  our  progress  down,  had  taken  a 
lull,  and  it  was  yet  morning,  and  we  felt  that  we 
must  go.  They  urged  us  strongly  for  a school. 

Our  third  and  last  stop  was  at  Benisouef.  Here 
is  a man,  by  name  Fatioos  Gabrian,  of  whom 
Brother  M’Cague  truly  wrote,  in  his  notes  of  his 
first  trip,  “ One  of  a thousand.”  But  to  go  back 
even  further.  A few  days  ago  Fanoos  related 
to  me  the  following  : Between  five  and  six  years 
ago,  our  shopman,  Awid,  was  sitting  on  the  bank 
of  the  Nile,  at  Benisouef,  awaitfhg  an  opportu- 
nity in  some  passing  boat  to  come  down  to  Cairo. 
Fanoos  (then  a stranger  to  him)  happening  to 
pass,  called  to  him  and  asked  if  he  could  assist 
him  in  the  matter.  A few  earnest  words  from 

; 

Awid  arrested  the  attention  of  Fanoos,  and  he 
said,  “ I will  secure  you  a passage  down,  but  not 
until  you  have  come  up  to  my  house  and  spent 
the  night.”  Awid  did  so,  and  it  was  the  begin- 
ning of  a friendship  which  has  lasted  tc  this  day, 
and  promises  the  happiest  results.  Those  few 


MAKHIEL  IBRAHIM. 


359 


words  were  the  handful  of  corn  on  the  mountain 
top,  whose  fruit,  we  trust,  shall  yet  wave  like 
Lebanon.  Subsequently,  he  was  accustomed 
annually  to  make  a visit  to  Cairo,  where  he  also 
became  acquainted  with  Brother  M’Cague,  and 
he  used,  in  returning,  to  purchase  and  take  with 
him  a quantity  of  books  for  gratuitous  distribu- 
tion. I may  here  state  that  he  is  a wealthy  man. 
the  present  head  of  the  first  Christian  family  of 
that  whole  section  of  country.  He  is  the  owner 
of  a large  village  called  Beni  Bakhit,  with  its 
lands,  which  is  an  hour  back  of  Benisouef.  Last 
year  I met  him  there.  But  I must  now  go  back 
to  introduce  you  to  another  character.  Makhiel 
Ibrahim,  some  twenty  years  ago,  was  a pupil  in 
the  school  of  the  Church  Missionary  Society  here, 
then  under  the  care  of  Messrs.  Kruse  and  Leider. 
They  took  great  pains  with  Makhiel.  even  to  the 
extent  of  hiring  a Muslem  teacher  to  give  him 
lessons  in  Arabic,  grammar,  etc.  He  turned 
out  to  be  a good  scholar ; but,  alas ! he  blasted 
all  the  high  hopes  which  were  entertained  for 
him  by  drunkenness.  Thoroughly  Protestant  in 
sentiment,  upright,  amiable,  and  estimable  in 
character,  bating  his  one  bad  habit,  I found  he 
was  pitied,  but  beloved,  by  all  who  knew  him. 
The  day  we  reached, there  happened  to  be  a feast 
day,  and  Makhiel  soon  came  aboard,  as  we  would 
say,  “three  sheets  in  the  wind.”  He  was,  of 
course,  most  eloquent  in  his  praise  of  Protestant- 


360 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


ism.  Speaking  of  his  old  friend,  the  Church 
Missionary  Society,  lie  said,  “ It  was  the  day- 
star  for  our  land,  but  it  set ; and  now  the  Ameri- 
can Mission— the  sun — has  arisen,  which  shall 
enlighten  all  Egypt.”  But,  poor  fellow,  he  re- 
ceived a sad  fall  from  his  high  horse.  In  leaving 
the  boat,  he  fell  from  the  plank  into  the  water 
and  upon  the  stones,  badly  cutting  his  face  and 
head.  As  he  sat  on  the  shore,  now  perfectly 
sobered  and  wiping  the  blood  from  his  face,  he 
was  a most  pitiable  spectacle.  The  next  day  he 
came  back  in  his  right  mind,  and  insisted  on  re- 
penting (“at  my  hand,”  as  he  expressed  it,) 
and  opening  a school  for  us.  Thirteen  of  the 
leading  Copts  of  the  place  also  came  down 
and  pleaded  for  him ; and  though  I could  not 
have  much  confidence  in  his  promise  of  reforma- 
tion, I could  not  withhold  sanction  of  the  experi- 
ment, especially  when  they  proposed  supporting 
Makhiel,  and  said  they  only  wished  the  influence 
of  our  name,  and  some  school  books  which  Lord 
Aberdeen  gave  them.  After  we  left,  however, 
the  Copts  verified  the  proverb  of  too  many  cooks 
spoiling  the  broth.  They  did  not  agree  as  to 
the  details  of  the  movement,  and  poor  Makhiel 
returned  to  his  cups.  He  had  however,  I be- 
lieve, but  one  good  spree  when  he  resorted  to  a 
novel  method  of  curing  himself.  The  New  York 
Society  for  reforming  inebriates,  should,  I think, 
take  note  of  it.  He  caught  a large  fish  from  the 


NOVEL  CURE  FOR  DRUNKENNESS.  361 


river,  and  cutting  off  its  tail,  he  squeezed  its 
blood  into  his  arrack  bowl  and  drank  off  the 
mixture.  It  made  him  deadly  sick  for  several 
days,  since  which  time  (at  the  date  of  our  last 
visit,  live  months,)  he  had  not  tasted,  nor  been 
able  even  to  endure  the  smell  of  his  formerly 
loved  arrak.  All  testified  (which  was  evident 
from  his  changed  appearance)  that  he  was  now 
a reformed  man,  and  all  urged  that  the  school 
should  now  be  opened.  Fanoos  was  not  in  town, 
being  unwell  in  his  village ; but  anxious  not  to 
subject  the  movement  to  its  former  mishaps  from 
divided  counsels,  as  to  the  school-room,  I Avent 
to  the  street' at  once  with  Makhiel  and  hired  one. 

In  the  evening  we  rode  out  Avith  a large  com- 
pany of  Copts  to  Beni  Bakhit  to  see  Fanoos. 
The  gallop  over  the  plain  was  a delightful  one. 
Our  friend  had  been  suffering  from  a slight  attack 
of  cold,  and  Avas  better  and  able  to  receive  us. 
The  fatted  lamb  Avas  killed,  and  Ave  spent  a ATery 
pleasant  evening  Avith  the  sole  draAvback  of  the 
presence  of  the  hated  arrack,  of  Avhich  the  guests 
had  brought  a bottle  Avith  them.  Fanoos  never 
touches  it,  nor  does  he  (noted  as  he  is  for  hos- 
pitality) furnish  it  for  his  guests.  Though  con- 
firmed drunkards,  in  our  sense  of  the  word,  are 
seldom  met  among  the  Copts,  this  custom  of 
arrack-drinking  in  their  evening  sociables,  after 
their  day’s  Avork  is  done,  is  fearfully  prevalent. 

The  matter  of  the  school  was  freely  discussed. 

•31 


362 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


They  decided  that  the  house  which  I had  taken 
from  a Moslem  would  not  answer,  as  near  it  was 
a cafe,  which  was  a centre  of  dissipation  and 
evil ; but  that  they  would  procure  a Christian 
house,  and  have  the  Muslem  return  me  the 
money  (which  has  since  been  done).  Fanoos 
promised  to  procure  school-rooms,  and  they  said 
that,  in  the  mean  time,  the  school  should  be  kept 
in  the  church. 

We  spent  the  night  there,  all  sleeping  on  the 
floor  of  the  guest  room,  which  we  quite  covered ; 
and  the  next  morning  we  returned  to  town. 
By  last  accounts  the  school  contained  thirty-five 
children,  and  Makhiel  was  giving  great  satisfac- 
tion to  all.  Fanoos  has  been  here  the  last  two 
weeks.  Before  leaving  home,  he  set  apart,  for 
school  premises,  a lot  of  ground  containing  400 
pics  (the  pic  is  about  twenty-seven  inches)  of 
land,  and  he  purchased  a large  quantity  of  bricks, 
lime,  and  other  building  materials,  and  the  last 
few  days  here  he  has  been  purchasing  timber  for 
rafters,  doors,  windows,  etc.  I have  been  help- 
ing him  with  his  plan,  and  a fine  one  it  is.  He 
proposes  building  a large  school-room,  and  three 
smaller  rooms  and  a kitchen — two  for  recitation 
rooms,  and  one  for  a guest  room  when  we  go  to 
see  him.  He  also  takes  with  him  one  of  our 
school-boys  (who  has  been  in  the  school  here 
five  years)  for  assistant  teacher,  principally  for 
English,  and  his  wages  are  to  be  paid  by  the 


ONE  OF  A THOUSAND.' 


363 


people  there.  Truly,  this  man  is  “ one  of  a thou- 
sand.” Would  that  each  village  in  Egypt  had 
one  such  man. 

I asked  Awid  about  the  narrative  above  nar- 
rated, of  his  first  acquaintance  with  Fanoos.  He 
told  the  story  in  the  same  manner,  only  he  gave 
me  the  following  characteristic  addition  : He  said 
that  he  had  gone  there  with  and  at  the  invitation 
of  a Coptic  friend  here,  to  visit  some  friends  in 
a village  back  of  Benisouef.  While  there,  he 
advocated  Protestant  doctrines  so  freely  and 
decidedly,  that  at  length  they  told  him,  one  eve- 
ning, that  he  must  be  silent  on  the  subject  or 
leave.  He  said,  “ Very  well,  I wTill  think  over 
it  to-night.”  The  next  morning  he  arose  early 
and  hired  a boy  and  donkey,  and  rode  into  Ben- 
isouef, where  he  was  sitting  friendless  and  alone 
on  the  bank  of  the  river  when  Fanoos  came 
along. 


CHAPTER  XY. 


In  a journal  of  a trip  up  the  Nile  in  October, 
1 862,  I find  the  following  account  of  Bashoi  and 
of  Makhiel,  which  may  interest  the  reader.  The 
size  of  the  volume  will  not  permit  me  to  insert 
the  journal  entire : 

During  the  regime  of  Faris  at  Osiout,  he  fell 
in  with  a monk  named  Bashoi,  from  a village  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  who  had  seceded 
from  the  Coptic  to  the  Popish  Church,  and  taken 
the  whole  Coptic  community  of  the  place  with 
him.  Faris  so  far  instructed  him  in  the  truth 
as  to  bring  him  and  his  people  back  to  the 
Coptic  church — the  half-way  house  to  Protest- 
antism. But  Bashoi  did  not  stop  there.  He 
subsequently  came  to  Cairo,  said  he  was  a Prot- 
estant, and  wished  to  enter  our  school.  We 
told  him  the  school  was  open  and  bade  him  walk 
in.  He  was  not  long  in  the  school  before  some 
of  our  Protestants  preached  to  him  the  gospel 
of  matrimony,  and  nothing  would  do  but  that 
he  must  take  to  himself  a wife.  We  strove 
earnestly  to  persuade  him  to  relinquish  this  pur- 
pose for  the  present,  and  diligently  give  his 
whole  mind  to  his  studies  for  a year  or  two, 
(364) 


DIFFICULTIES  OF  MATRIMONY. 


365 


when  we  would  hope  to  send  him  hack  to  his 
village  prepared  to  labor  effectively  for  the  spir- 
itual good  of  his  people,  and  with  a help-meet 
with  him.  Thus,  the  subject  was  put  off  for  a 
couple  of  months,  and  we  think  he  would  have 
followed  our  advice,  but  his  officious  friends  were 
urging  him  on  in  the  matter,  and  finally  they 
found  for  him  a Coptic. girl  who  had  agreed  to 
marry  him.  (These  matters  are  arranged  by 
third  parties  in  Egypt,  and  a man  seldom  sees 
his  intended  until  after  she  has  become  his  wife.) 
The  girl  and  her  friends  were  told  all  about  him, 
except  that  he  was  a monk.  But  before  the 
matter  could  be  consummated,  the  Copts  got 
wind  of  the  affair,  and  threats  of  excommunica- 
tion were  immediately  held  over  the  girl  and  her 
family,  which  broke  oft’  the  whole  matter. 

Some  time  afterwards  I was  in  bed  sick,  one 
Saturday  forenoon,  when  they  came  to  me  say- 
ing, “ Come,  now,  we  have  a bride  for  Bashoi. 
She  is  a Greek  widow,  and  we  have  told  her 
that  he  is  a Coptic  monk,  and  she  is  willing  to 
marry  him,  and  we  have  her  all  ready  at  our 
house,  and  can  bring  her  here  in  ten  minutes. 
Up,  now,  and  marry  them,  before  something  else 
'happens  to  prevent.”  I aros«^  put  on  my  dress- 
ing-gown and  slippers,  and  in  a short  time  they 
were  man  and  wife.  We  then  told  him:  “You 
know  on  what  conditions  you  have  taken  this 
step  against  our  advice.  We  now  understand 
31* 


366 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


what  was  the  extent  and  scope  of  your  Protest- 
antism. Thus  far  we  have  helped  you  ; but  now, 
as  we  told  you,  your  education  in  our  school  is 
finished.  Take  now  your  wife  and  go  to  your 
village,  and  support  her  by  your  honest  labor, 
and  the  blessing  of  God  go  with  you.” 

Pie  left,  and,  as  we  knew  would  be  the  case, 
the  affair  was  soon  noised  abroad,  and  an  eccle- 
siastical thunderbolt  was  fulminated  and  sent 
after  him.  He  went  to  his  father’s  house  ; and 
the  house,  and  much  of  its  furniture,  and  some 
land,  were  the  fruits  of  his  own  mass-saying  in- 
dustry in  former  years.  But  when  the  priestly 
ban  against  him  reached  the  village,  his  father 
turned  him  into  the  streets.  All  his  former  peo- 
ple turned  against  him,  and  even  instigated  the 
Muslims  to  revile  and  stone  him  whenever  he 
passed  through  the  streets.  He  went  over  to 
Wasef,  our  American  consular  agent  in  Osiout ; 
and  Wasef  should  have  acted  energetically  in 
the  case,  which,  with  the  memory  of  the  affair 
of  Faris,  would  probably  soon  have  quelled  this 
petty  persecution.  But  while  Wasef  was  per- 
sonally very  kind  to  him,  and  gave  him  and  his 
wife  a passage  in  one  of  his  boats  to  Caii’o,  he 
could  not  bring  himself  to  the  point  of  facing  and 
putting  down  the  Episcopal  bull.  He  doubtless 
could  have  done  so  had  he  wished,  and  perhaps 
it  was  too  much  to  expect  from  him. 

This  is  all  of  the  story  of  Bashoi  that  is  neces- 


REPENTANCE  TOO  LATE. 


367 


sary  for  our  present  narrative,  but  my  readers 
will  doubtless  wish  to  hear  the  sequel  of  his 
story  : 

He  and  his  wife  came  down  to  Cairo,  more 
dead  than  alive.  We  met  him  with:  “Well, 
what  next  ? Did  we  not  tell  you  before  that 
they  would  persecute,  excommunicate,  and  strip 
you  of  every  thing,  and  if  possible,  even  kill  you  ? 
And  that  if  you  would  marry,  we  would  perform 
the  ceremony  for  the  general  effect  of  the  act  on 
the  Coptic  church,  but  that  as  to  yourself  our 
responsibility  would  there  end.”  “ Oh,  yes !” 
he  bitterly  answered,  “ you  told  me  all,  and  you 
were  a true  prophet.  But  what  can  I now  do  ?” 
Poor  man ! he  wept  like  a child.  Besides  the 
persecutions  which  had  befallen  him,  he  had 
found  that  in  his  blindfold  leap  he  had  not  mar- 
ried a Greek,  but  a Tartar,  which  made  it  much 
worse  for  him.  We  could  not  help  pitying  him, 
and  finally  said,  “ What  can  we  possibly  do  for 
you  ?”  He  said,  “ Only  let  me  stay  here,  under 
your  protection,  and  have  a crust  of  bread  and 
cup  of  water,  and  I will  do  any  thing.  I will 
take  care  of  the  donkey,  or  sweep  the  school- 
rooms, or  any  thing  you  say.”  We  wondered 
whether  the  priestly  dignity  had  really  come 
down  to  this,  and  we  took  him  at  his  Avord : 
“ Sweep  the  school-rooms,  you  shall ; and  your 
Avages  shall  be  four  dollars  per  month.”  He  did 
il,  and  meantime  he  Avent  into  some  of  the  classes 


368 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


in  the  school,  and  the  longer  he  remained  the 
more  he  convinced  us  that  he  was  a man  of  mind 
and  piety,  and  that  his  Protestantism  had  not 
been  simply  in  obedience  to  the  gospel  of  matri- 
mony. He  bore,  too,  the  burden  of  an  ill-assorted 
match,  and  instructed  and  prayed  with  his  wife 
in  a manner  none  but  a truly  Christian  man  could 
do ; so  that  soon  a manifest  improvement  was 
apparent  in  her.  After  a time  we  found  him 
qualified  to  teach  a class  in  the  school,  then  an- 
other class,  and  soon  he  commenced  writing 
sermons — one  of  which  he  brought  to  us  every 
few  days  for  correction — and  in  them  he  showed" 
a very  extensive  knowledge  of  the  Scriptures. 
Indeed,  his  first  sermons  were  almost  entirely 
from  the  Scriptures,  and  to  the  point,  too,  which 
is  wonderful,  when  we  remember  that  they  have 
no  Concordance  in  Arabic ; and  when  corrected 
on  this  point,  and  told  to  bring  more  of  his  own, 
he  answered  that  he  dared  not,  but  that  when 
he  spake  from  the  Scriptures  he  knew  he  was 
right. 

When  our  blind  Makhiel  went  to  the  Fayoum, 
we  opened  for  Bashoi  a room  for  a nightly  meet- 
ing in  the  heart  of  the  Coptic  quarter,  in  which, 
and  in  labor  in  the  streets,  he  has  shown  himself 
laborious  and  faithful,  and  now  he  regularly 
preaches  the  Word.  Thus  the  matter  of  his 
marriage  has  turned  out  well.  It  vTas  the  first 
case  of  the  kind,  and  as  the  marriage  of  Luther 


YOUNG  MAKHIEL. 


3G9 


with  his  Catharine  made  Europe  tremble,  so  this 
convulsed  the  Coptic  church.  It  broke  the  spell. 
Another,  as  has  been  already  narrated,  has  fol- 
lowed the  example,  and  soon  we  trust  the  daugh- 
ters of  the  Copts  will  no  longer  say  of  a union 
with  a priest  or  a monk,  “ Would  a girl  marry 
her  father  ?” 

The  story  of  Makhiel  is  even  more  interesting 
than  that  of  Bashoi : 

Makhiel,  when  a youth  about  fifteen  years  of 
age,  was  induced  to  devote  himself  to  the  monk- 
ish life,  and  he  left  Beleine,  his  native  town,  and 
went  to  the  Convent  of  the  Virgin,  also  called 
the  Syrian  Convent,  in  Nitria.  This  district,  it 
is  said,  contained  in  the  fourth  and  fifth  centuries 
of  our  era,  about  twenty  thousand  monks.  It  is 
situated  in  the  Delta,  south-west  from  Alexan- 
dria, and  thirteen  hours  of  hard  riding  over  a 
barren  desert  west  of  Wordan.  There  are  now 
there  only  four  convents,  and  in  each  of  them 
twenty  or  thirty  monks.  These  monks  are  now 
for  the  most  part  illiterate  men,  who  spend  their 
time  in  the  empty  routine  of  Coptic  prayers,  and 
in  attending  to  their  temporal  affairs,  and  in 
quarrelling  with  one  another.  A number  of 
them  who  have  come  to  us  confess  that  they 
spend  most  of  their  time  in  wordy  war,  which 
sometimes  comes  to  blows  and  even  blood. 
Young  Makhiel  went  there  with  a desire  and 
determination  to  learn  to  read.  He  found  that 


370 


Egypt’s  princes. 


the  monk  whose  duty  it  was  to  grind  the  flour 
for  the  fraternity,  knew  how  to  read,  and  by 
taking  his  turn  occasionally  on  the  mill,  he 
bribed  him  to  teach  him  the  letters,  when  he 
commenced  with  him  the  Psalms,  of  which  he 
learned  to  read,  and  memorized  nine.  He  then 
went  on  helping  himself  with  the  rest,  and  finally 
committed  the  one  hundred  and  fifty -one  Psalms 
(for  the  Copts  have  an  extra  one,  which  they 
have  brought  I know  not  whence).  In  the 
mean  time,  as  he  had  a very  inquisitive  mind,  he 
read  pretty  deeply  the  old  manuscripts,  of  which 
the  convent  has  a large  collection.  Among  these 
he  found  one  which  he  read  and  re-read,  which, 
with  his  knowledge  of  the  Psalms,  laid  the  foun 
dation  of  his  Christian  character.  This  book,  of 
which  the  abbot  of  that  convent  gave  me  a copy, 
which  is  five  hundred  and  seventy  years  old,  is 
evidently  a translation,  but  by  whom  or  where 
it  was  written,  it  is  difficult  to  conclude.  It  is 
called  the  “ Book  of  the  Spiritual  Shaikh,”  and 
bating  some  mysticism,  and  that  the  sense  of 
much  of  it  has  been  lost  in  translation  and  trans- 
scribing, it  is  in  much  the  style  of  Rutherford’s 
letters.  While  thus  engaged,  a wider  and  richer 
field  of  study  was  opened  to  Makhiel  in  a copy 
of  the  entire  Bible.  A monk  who  had  been  to 
Cairo  brought  one  which  he  had  obtained  from 
the  English  Mission  there.  As  soon  as  Makhiel 
saw  it,  he  said,  “ I must  have  it.”  The  other, 


A SUPERSTITIOUS  STUDENT. 


371 


however,  would  not  give  it  to  him  except  for 
twelve  piastres.  Makhiel  had  no  money,  but  he 
had  a pair  of  new  shoes  which  had  been  sent 
him  from  home,  and,  taking  them  olf,  he  threw 
them  to  him  and  said,  “ There,  take  those  and 
give  me  the  book !”  lie  now  read  the  Bible 
constantly,  but  for  a long  time  to  come  he  was 
still  very  superstitious.  He  has  told  me  how 
he  used  often  to  spend  nearly  the  whole  night 
in  praying  and  repeating  Psalms  before  the  pic- 
ture of  the  Virgin,  bowing  before  her  to  the 
earth,  sometimes  hundreds  of  times  in  succession, 
until  his  knees  were  calloused  by  it,  and  that  he 
used  to  imagine  that  the  picture  smiled  benig- 
nantly  upon  him,  as  if  pleased  with  his  devotion. 
Some  time  after,  he  made  a visit  to  Cairo,  where 
he  became  acquainted  with  a Copt  who  had 
been  partially  enlightened,  who  introduced  him  to 
Mr.  Krusi  of  the  English  Mission,  which  led  to 
a correspondence  after  his  return  to  the  convent. 
Afterwards  (I  cannot  give  dates,  for  the  Arabs 
seldom  take  account  of  them,  and  I merely  give 
the  outline  of  his  life  as  I received  it  from  him), 
when  a new  Abuna  or  Bishop  was  appointed  to 
the  Abyssinian  church  by  the  Patriarch  of 
Cairo,  he  being  a young  man,  Makhiel  was  sent 
with  him  as  his  factotum.  He  spent  seven  years 
in  Abyssinia,  and  thoroughly  mastered  the  Ethi- 
opic,  and  were  our  Church  prepared  to  drive 
the  wedge  of  light  which  has  been -entered  at 


372 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


Egypt,  still  further  into  the  African  continent — 
that  great  triangle  of  thick  darkness — a new  mis- 
sionary should  be  sent  for  the  purpose  from 
America,  and,  taking  Makhiel  with  him,  should 
establish  a mission  in  that  most  interesting 
country.  He  was  in  Abyssinia  during  the  time 
of  the  political  revolution  in  that  land,  which 
resulted  in  the  establishment  of  the  throne  of 
Theodore,  the  present  king.  He  was  a chief 
actor  in  those  scenes  of  craft  and  bloodshed,  and 
his  narrative  of  the  events  of  that  yet  unwritten 
chapter  of  modern  history  is  intensely  interest- 
ing. But  he  was  yet,  though  partially  enlight- 
ened, in  the  bondage  of  superstition.  When  Dr. 
Krapf,  about  a year  ago  visited  Cairo,  the  two 
met  and  recalled  a reminiscence  of  a former 
meeting  on  the  hills  of  Abyssinia.  When  the 
Doctor  went  there,  Makhiel  said  to  himself, 
What  would  this  stranger  do?  Would  he 
bring  to  us  a new  religion  ? He  stirred  up  the 
native  priests  against  him,  and  then  took  a com- 
pany of  them  and  went  to  him  with  a picture  of 
the  Virgin,  Makhiel  said  to  him,  “Worship  this.” 
Dr.  Krapf  shrugged  his  shoulders,  and  said, 
“ No,  I will  not  enter  into  the  religion  of  Satan.” 
Said  the  other,  “ You  must  bow  to  this,  or  you 
must  leave  this  land.”  He,  of  course,  was  inflex- 
ible, and  was  forced  to  leave. 

Finally,  the  Abuna  took  a position  in  poli- 
tics, in  which  Makhiel  could  not  follow  him, 


MAKHIEL  EXCOMMUNICATED. 


373 


and  the  result  was,  that  he  was  cast  into 
prison,  where  lie  remained  several  months,  when 
he  was  sent  barefoot  over  the  mountains  of 
Abyssinia,  a journey  of  seventeen  days,  to  Aden, 
at  the  entrance  of  the  Red  Sea.  He  then  took 
boat  and  sailed  up  to  Suez,  and  so  to  Cairo.  He 
here  came  more  frequently  into  contact  with  the 
Protestants,  and  especially  with  blind  Makhiel, 
of  whom  account  has  already  been  given.  Fi- 
nally, he  began  boldly  to  give  expression  to  Prot- 
estant sentiments.  This  was  brought  under  the 
notice  of  the  church  authorities ; and  one  night 
the  Bishop  of  Cairo  had  him  inveigled  into  a 
house  where  he  was  thrown  upon  his  face  into 
the  mud  in  the  court,  and  cruelly  beaten,  but  he 
would  not  recant.  His  excommunication  fol- 
lowed, and  he  was  left  to  wander  through  the 
streets  of  Cairo,  disconsolate  and  alone,  without 
any  one  to  return  his  salutations  or  minister  to 
him,  and  without  any  means  of  support.  It  was 
at  this  time,  over  seven  years  ago,  that  he  came 
to  our  missionaries  in  Cairo.  They  would  have 
given  him  employment,  by  which  he  might  earn 
a livelihood;  but,  while  intelligent  enough,  they 
found  him  unable  to  write ; nor  could  he  make 
himself  useful  in  conversing  with  the  people,  for 
the  excommunication  cut  him  oil’  from  them,  and 
even  most  of  our  Protestants  looked  upon  him 
with  suspicion.  He  was  a burden  upon  their 
charities  as  he  had  no  means  of  support,  and  he 
32 


374 


Egypt's  princes. 


could  not  be  supported  by  the  mission  without 
a remuneration  of  actual  work.  In  this  state  of 
things  the  brethren  sent  him  to  Alexandria,  with 
the  hope  that  the  prejudice  there  might  not  be 
so  strong  against  him,  and  that  we  might  be 
able  usefully  to  employ  him.  I had  at  the  time 
the  sheets  of  the  new  translation  of  the  Testa- 
ment, which  was  then  being  published  in  Beirut. 
Putting  these  in  covers,  I gave  the  volume  to 
him,  and  said,  “This  will  be  something  new  for 
the  people ; put  this  under  your  arm,  and  wher- 
ever in  the  streets  or  shops  you  find  a man  will- 
ing to  listen,  read  to  him.”  He  entered  upon 
this  work  with  zeal,  and  the  Syrians  and  Greeks, 
of  whom  the  population  of  Alexandria  is  largely 
composed,  did  not  share  in  the  Coptic  prejudice 
against  him.  lie  also  spent  a portion  of  each 
day  with  me,  receiving  regular  instructions  in 
theology.  For  a long  time,  like  most  new  con- 
verts, his  mind  was  far  too  prone  to  controversy, 
and  in  these  encounters  his  hot,  impetuous  blood 
often  got  the  better  of  him.  By  frequent  admo- 
nitions, and  long  and  earnest  efforts  of  self-control, 
he  gradually  overcame  this  disposition, and  learned 
that  it  is  the  truth,  and  not  controversy  which 
edifies.  He  also  showed  himself  a man  of  prayer. 
He  lived  with  a friend  in  whose  house  he  had  no 
closet,  and  early  every  morning  it  was  his  cus- 
tom to  go  down  to  the  sea-shore  and  take  his 
morning  bath,  and  then,  in  a nook,  behind  the 


YOUNG  MAKHIEL  AS  PREACHER, 


375 


wall  of  the  city,  spend  the  first  hour  oi  two  of 
the  day  iu  reading  his  Bible,  meditation  and 
prayer.  lie  then  wrent  forth  into  the  streets  and 
highways,  his  heart  hot  within  him  to  tell  what 
he  had  learned  of  the  love  of  the  Saviour.  Thus 
he  continued  for  nearly  three  years,  until  Lord 
Aberdeen  came,  when  wre  sent  him  with  Lord 
A.  to  Upper  Egypt  as  colporteur. 

When  he  returned  from  Upper  Egypt,  we 
allowed  him  to  commence  exercising  his  gifts  in 
the  public,  formal  preaching  of  the  Word,  and  in 
this  work  he  has  since  been  engaged.  The  exi- 
gencies of  our  Egyptian  mission  requiring  that 
he  and  Brother  Watson  should  be  left  alone  at 
Alexandria,  he,  for  more  than  a year,  while 
Brother  Watson  was  yet  unable  to  preach  in 
Arabic,  took  the  sole  charge  of  the  Arabic  ser- 
vice in  that  place.  He  is  an  able  preacher.  lie  is 
mighty  in  the  Scriptures,  being  familiar  with  the 
whole  volume  of  Divine  truth ; and  often,  in 
hearing  him  preach,  have  we  wished  that  more 
of  us,  who  have  been  called  to  be  stewards  of 
the  mysteries  of  God,  could,  like  him,  be  more 
restricted  to  the  fountain  of  truth  and  light— 
the  oracles  of  the  living  God.  His  extensive 
reading  of  native  books  and  authorities  have 
also  made  him  at  home  in  the  department  of 
ancient  church  history,  and  especially  the  his- 
tory of  the  Coptic  church.  May  his  bowr  long 
abide  in  strength  ! 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


A VISIT  TO  TIIE  CONVENT  OF  SITTNA  (OUE  LADY), 
HAMIANE. 


Avid,  our  bookseller  at  Cairo,  having  left 
a few  days  previous  in  our  new  boat,  the  “ Morn- 
ing Star,”  on  her  first  colporteuring  trip,  I left 
Cairo  on  Tuesday,  May  5th,  to  join  him  at  Sema- 
noud.  Reached  Tanta  at  noon,  where  I took 
the  branch  railway  to  Semanoud,  on  the  Dami- 
etta  branch  of  the  Nile. 

We  soon  reached  Semanoud,  and  after  wash- 
ing off  the  dust  of  travel  in  a delicious  cold  bath, 
I was  ready  for  work.  Two  young  men  soon 
came  aboard.  The  one  asked  for  the  “ Makamat 
of  Naseef,”  a literary  work  of  the  great  Arab 
grammarian,  and  when  he  found  that  we  had 
not  this,  nothing  could  induce  him  to  purchase 
any  of  our  religious  books,  although  he  was 
evidently  free  from  all  priestly  shackles  in  the 
matter.  And  when  Awid  strove  to  explain  to 
him  the  uses  and  advantages  of  the  “ Reference 
Testament,”  he  was  “ as  one  beating  the  air.” 
The  other  asked  only  for  religious  books,  of 
which  he  took  a number.  This  difference  led 
me  to  suspect  a difference  in  nationality  which 
(376) 


INQUISITIVE  WIPE. 


377 


was  not  indicated  by  the  appearance  of  the  twc 
lads,  when  I asked  the  former  from  what  part 
of  Syria  he  hailed,  and  he  answered  Beirut. 
The  other  was  a Copt ; and  this  difference  in  the 
religious  tendencies  of  the  two  nations  we  con- 
stantly remark.  Syria  and  Egypt  are  both 
awaking  from  a sleep  of  semi-barbarism  of  ages. 
But  the  civilization  which  Syria  is  putting  on  is 
French  and  infidel.  Egypt’s  is  Anglo-Saxon  and 
Protestant. 

Just  beside  our  boat  a Muslim  was  repairing 
a grain-boat,  between  whom  and  his  wife  Awid 
had  overheard,  a couple  of  days  previous,  the 
following  conversation.  The  wife  said  : “ Oh, 
my  husband,  the  book  (Kuran)  says  that  the 
‘ mumaneen’  and  the  ‘ mumanat’  (male  and  fe- 
male believers)  are  after  death  to  inhabit  Para- 
dise, but  it  says  that  each  one  of  you  male  be- 
lievers is  to  have  seventy  houris,  and  does  it  not 
say  what  we  women  are  to  have  ? Are  there  no 
male  houris,  and  if  so,  how  many  are  we  to 
have  ?”  He  answered  her,  “ Hold  your  tongue. 
It  says  nothing  about  your  having  any.”  But 
she  answered,  “ Are  we  not  even  to  have  our 
own  husbands  there,  after  we  have  toiled  and 
borue  with  them  in  this  world  ? that  is  not  just.” 
He  answered  this  by  cursing  her  very  soundly 
for  her  inquisitive  impertinence ; and  the  next 
day  he  divorced  her  with  the  treble  divorce. 
(The  law  of  the  Kuran  is  that  a man  may  divorce 
32* 


378 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


liis  wife  twice  and  take  her  hack  again,  hut  that 
the  third  time  he  cannot  take  her  hack  until  she 
has  married  another  man  and  been  divorced. 
To  save  trouble,  a man  often  says,  “ I divorce 
thee  with  the  treble  divorce,”  when  the  thing  is 
ended.  Though  not  unfrequently,  on  repenting, 
he  persuades  or  hires  some  other  man  to  marry 
and  then  immediately  divorce  her,  when  he  again 
marries  her.) 

As  Awid  had  been  four  days  in  Semanoud  and 
finished  the  bookselling  work,  we  dropped  down 
by  night  to  Mansoura  (the  Victorious).  This 
town  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  Nile,  and  it,  as 
well  as  Semanoud,  has  become  a large  and  flour- 
ishing place  since  the  immense  expansion  of  the 
cotton  interest  the  last  two  years,  as  this  is  the 
centre  of  the  best  cotton  district  in  the  country. 

I found  that  Awid  had  invented  a new  and 
very  useful  contrivance  for  facilitating  our  work. 
Before  leaving  Cairo  he  had  written  the  follow- 
ing notice,  of  which  he  had  made  the  boys  of  the 
school  write  a large  number  of  copies  : 

“ N otice. — The  boat  ‘ Morning  Star,’  has  ar- 
rived, having  on  board  a quantity  of  religious  and 
literary  books,  which  are  for  sale  at  low  prices. 
Let  all,  therefore,  who  wish  books,  come  without 
delay  and  take  what  they  need,  for  the  reading 
of  these  books  is  most  important  and  necessary, 
since  they  bring  consolation  to  the  heart,  and 


THE  COTTON  CROP. 


379 


especially  the  Holy  Book  of  God,  "which  he  has 
given  us  by  inspiration  through  holy  men  and 
prophets,  and  which  is  profitable  for  the  present 
life  and  for  that  to  come.  Therefore,  our  Glo- 
rious Lord  has-  commanded  us  to  search  the 
Scriptures,  and  the  Apostle,  in  his  First  Epistle 
to  the  Corinthians,  v.  21,  has  said,  ‘Prove  all 
things : hold  fast  that  which  is  good.’  ” 

On  arriving  we  sent  out  a large  number  of 
these,  and  by  the  time  we  had  finished  break- 
fast the  first  bevy  of  black-turbaned  copts  were 
seen  coming.  They  took  books  to  the  value  of 
ten  dollars — a propitious  opening.  Others  fol- 
lowed until  noon.  After  dinner  Awid  took  the 
bag  and  went  through  the  streets,  and  I remained 
and  attended  to  those  who  came  to  the  boat. 

•One  of  the  least  to  be  desired,  but  still  most 
natural  results  of  the  new  cotton  prosperity  in 
Egypt,  has  been  a great  revival  of  the  slave  trade. 
The  cotton  crop  is  a heavy  one,  requiring  much 
more  and  heavier  work  than  the  ordinary  grain 
crop,  of  the  country.  Its  cultivation  was  intro- 
duced into  the  country  by  Mohammed  Ali,  who, 
having  procured  and  distributed  the  seed,  stimu 
lated  its  production  in  his  own  arbitrary  way 
by  passing  laws  requiring  each  district  to  pro- 
duce a certain  amount  of  cotton  annually.  The 
land  produced  it  so  abundantly,  and  of  such  good 
staple,  that  it  was  a profitable  crop,  even  when 


380 


Egypt’s  princes. 


the  South  was  a competitor  in  the  market.  And 
now,  since  King  Cotton  has  removed  his  throne 
from  Dixie  to  Egypt  and  India,  he  has  distrib- 
uted his  favors  so  bountifully  that  no  more  laws 
enforcing  the  cultivation  of  cotton  have  been 
needed.  I recently  heard  of  one  man  who  last 
year  sowed  two  hundred  and  fifty  acres  of  cotton, 
from  the  produce  of  which  he  has  already  sold  cot- 
ton for  fifteen  thousand  dollars,  and  he  had  still  a 
quantity  on  hand  ; and  a friend  told  me  yesterday 
of  a neighbor  of  his,  whose  sister  was  accustomed 
to  come  daily  to  his  house  to  beg  a piece  of  bread 
as  her  brother  could  not  support  her,  he  having 
only  five  acres  of  land.  This  brother  was  seen  a 
few  days  since  driving  before  him,  through  the 
streets,  a male  and  female  slave  which  he  had 
just  purchased,  and  when  asked  how  he  could 
afford  it,  he  answered,  “ I sowed  my  five  acres 
with  cotton  this  year.” 

But  the  great  obstacle  to  cotton-growing  has 
been,  and  is,  the  scarcity  of  hands.  The  con- 
scription for  the  army,  and  forced  labor  for  the 
Suez  Canal  and  the  Government  works,  make 
neavy  drafts  upon  the  working  population.  F ully 
one-third  of  the  available  muscle  of  the  land  is 
at  present  thus  employed,  while  it  is  lamentable 
to  behold  the  wheat  crop  everywhere  perishing 
on  the  ground  for  want  of  hands  to  reap  it. 
This  state  of  things  has  created  a great  demand 
for  slave  labor  in  Egypt.  But  slavery  is  against 


THE  SLAVE  TRADE. 


381 


the  law;  for  England  and  France,  in  former 
years,  when  it  suited  them  to  quote  even  “ base 
Egypt”  to  the  United  States  as  an  anti-slave 
power,  obtained  from  the  Sultan  and  the  Egyp- 
tian Government  an  ordinance  abolishing  slavery. 
Still,  this  law  being  imposed  by  foreign  pressure, 
and  not  sustained  by  the  public  sentiment  of  the 
country,  was  in  a great  measure  a dead  letter. 
True,  the  public  slave-markets  in  the  large  cities 
were  abolished:  but  the  “ Jelabis,”  or  Central 
African  merchants,  still  clandestinely  brought 
down,  with  their  cargoes  of  ivory  and  ostrich 
feathers,  a few  slaves ; and  the  Government 
winked  at  the  trade,  except  so  far  as  particular 
officials  found  it  to  be  to  their  interest  to  confiscate 
to  themselves  these  cargoes,  or  levy  black-mail 
upon  the  owners.  And  besides,  the  Government 
was  the  great  slave-merchant  of  the  country; 
for  it  was  constantly  stealing  and  bringing  down 
from  the  upper  country  slaves,  who  were  dis- 
tributed to  its  favorites  or  enrolled  in  the  black 
regiment  of  the  army.  And  then,  too,  accord- 
ing to  the  law  of  the  Kuran,  which  allows  four 
wives  to  each  believer,  besides  as  many  concu- 
bines “ as  his  hands  may  possess,”  wealthy  and 
lecherous  Muslims  must  have  their  female  slaves 
for  the  harem,  and  thus  the  trade  was  carried  on. 
Meanwhile  the  representatives  of  the  European 
powers  that  had  procured  the  passage  of  the 
law  were  too  anxious  to  preserve  the  “ entente 


382 


EGYPT’S  PRINCES. 


cordiale”  and  the  “ integrity  of  the  Turkish  Em- 
pire” to  make  any  very  strong  protests  against 
the  system,  and  thus  it  was  continued.  Now  the 
European  abolitionists  view  slavery  through  spec- 
tacles brought  from  Richmond,  and  there  being,' 
in  addition,  the  increased  demand  above  men- 
tioned, caused  by  the  great  expansion  of  cotton 
culture,  the  supply  is  found  keeping  pace  with 
the  demand,  and  the  result  is  a great  revival  of 
the  slave  trade. 

I may,  however,  remark,  while  on  the  subject, 
that  slavery  is  not  there  the  cruel  bondage,  the 
odious  institution  which  it  is  in  our  Southern 
States.  It  is  alleviated  by  various  considera- 
tions : 

First.  We  have  there  none  of  that  senseless 
“prejudice  of  color,”  or  “caste  of  race,”  so 
prevalent  in  America,  both  South  and  North. 
Whether  it  be  a white  Mamaluke  from  the 
North,  who  is  bought  and  sold  as  a chattel,  or 
a black  Dongoffan  (so  black  and  shiny,  and 
with  such  an  entire  absence  of  the  red  or  pale  in 
the  palms  and  lips  that  he  seems  “ dyed  in  the 
wool,”  black,  through  and  through),  it  is  all  the 
same— “ a man  is  a man  for  a’  that.”  And  in 
the  female  branch  of  the  trade,  whether  it  be  a' 
Caucasian  beauty  or  (like  Miriam,  who  was  sent 
to  the  harem  of  Mohammed  to  stay  his  conquer- 
ing sword  and  propitiate  his  favor)  an  Abys- 
sinian maid,  Anglo-Saxon  in  feature,  but  dusky 


SLAVERY  IN  EGYPT. 


383 


in  color,  find  all  reeking  in  castor-oil,  and  all  the 
more  valued  from  having  been  converted— stolen. 
— from  a nominally  Christian  country,  it  is  all 
the  same — “ a woman  is  a woman  for  a’  that.” 

Second.  Slavery  is  rendered  a lighter  yoke, 
from  the  fact  that  slaves  have  not  been  for  the 
most  part  field-hands,  crushed  to  the  earth  under 
the  cumbrous  wheels  of  King  Cotton,  nor  any 
other  great  grinding  demand  of  base  avarice ; 
but,  like  Abraham’s  three  hundred  and  eighteen, 
they  have  been  the  domestic  and  body  servants 
of  the  rich  and  great,  and,  as  such,  are  often 
petted  and  trusted  by  their  masters,  and,  as  a 
consequence,  acquire  influence,  and  are  respected 
by  those  around. 

Third.  We  have  here  no  fugitive  slave  law. 
Slavery,  as  has  been  said,  is  against  the  law  of 
the  land  ; and  consequently,  if  a slave  is  not  well 
treated,  and  chooses  to  walk  off,  he  need  have 
no  fears  of  blood-hounds,  nor  even  take  passage 
by  the  “ Underground  Railway.”  The  master 
has  no  redress,  except  it  be  through  some  cor- 
rupt Government  official,  whom  he  must  bribe 
so  heavily  that,  in  most  cases,  he  may  better  buy 
a new  man.  This  latter  feature  takes  the  sting 
out  of  slavery,  aud  almost  makes  it  no  slavery 
at  all.  It  is  probably  the  principal  cause  of  the 
cheapness  of  the  article.  Two  years  ago  a good 
slave  could  be  purchased  for  from  forty  to  sixty 
dollars.  Now  the  price  has  risen  to  about  one 


384 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


hundred  dollars ; and  even  yet,  though  the 
foreign  pressure  is  removed,  the  Government 
continues  a fitful  and  dubiously  disinterested 
opposition  to  the  trade. 

9tli.  Awid  having  dispatched  the  books  and 
returned,  he  took  animals  and  a box  of  books 
and  set  out  for  Radaniyeh  and  Selamon,  two 
villages  about  two  and  a half  hours  back  in  the 
country. 

We  next  proceeded  to  Selamon,  which  is 
about  twenty  minutes  further  on  and  across  a 
deep  canal,  which  is  navigable  for  good-sized 
craft.  This  canal  leaves  the  Nile  only  a short 
distance  this  side  of  Cairo,  and  flows  to  the  sea. 
It  has  on  its  banks  many  villages,  and  must,  as 
soon  as  may  be,  be  threaded  by  the  “ Morning 
Star.” 

When  we  reached  the  village  we  went  to  the 
church  and  asked  for  the  priest.  We  found  him 
in  a small  upper  room  connected  with  the 
church,  very  busily  engaged  correcting  a manu- 
script copy  of  the  memoir  of  St.  George.  We 
told  him  that  we  had  Bibles  and  books  for  sale, 
and  asked  if  any  of  his  people  needed  any.  He 
said  he  thought  not,  as  they  already  had  many 
books,  and  asked  us  if  we  had  the  book  upon 
which  he  was  laboring.  We  took  a cup  of  cof- 
fee with  him,  and  then  went  out  with  our  box 
into  the  town  to  the  Christian  quarter,  and  seek- 
ing a shady  street  we  sat  down  and  exposed  our 


THE  ORACLE’S  WISDOM  AT  FAULT.  385 

wares,  at  the  same  time  sending  off  the  boys, 
who  by  this  time  had  collected  around  us,  to  in- 
form the  people.  They  soon  came  in  good  num- 
bers, and  we  were  happy  to  find  that  they  were 
of  a different  mind  from  their  priest  as  to  their 
need  of  books.  We  spent  the  day  selling  and  talk- 
ing to  them,  and  sold  them  to  the  amount  of  two 
hundred  and  ten  piastres.  Once  our  business  came 
to  a dead-lock  in  this  wise : A boy  who  had  bought 
a book  brought  it  back,  and  quietly  showed  a pas- 
sage in  it  to  an  old  man — evidently  the  oracle 
of  the  village — who  dubiously  shook  his  head, 
and  whispered  something.  Others  then  drew  up 
and  read  over  their  shoulders,  when,  without  say- 
ing any  thing,  the  boy  brought  the  book  back 
and  demanded  his  money.  The  rest  dropped 
the  books  which  they  were  examining,  and  the 
sale  was  stopped.  I saw  a crisis  had  come,  and 
asked  the  boy  what  was  the  matter  with  the 
book  ? After  some  reluctance  he  showed  me 
the  passage,  which  was  to  the  effect  that  the 
Virgin  Mary,  like  the  rest  of  mankind,  was  a 
sinner,  and  in  strong  terms  he  reprobated  so 
heretical  a doctrine.  I turned,  in  the  Testament 
which  I held  in  my  hand,  to  Luke  i.  46,  and  had 
him  read  it  aloud  to  all : “ And  Mary  said,  My 
soul  doth  magnify  the  Lord,  and  my  spirit  hath 
rejoiced  in  God  my  Saviour and  then  asked 
him  from  what  he  was  her  Saviour  if  not  from 
sin,  and  how,  at  his  age,  he  came  to  be  so  wise 
33 


* 

386  Egypt’s  princes. 

above  what  is  written?  All,  even  the  oracle, 
bowed  with  a submission,  which  is  peculiarly 
Coptic,  to  the  authority  of  the  Word  of  God,  and 
the  work  went  on  again.  This  is  only  an  exam- 
ple of  the  manner  in  which  in  these  book-selling 
and  street-preaching  excursions  we  are  called 
upon  to  meet  opinions  of  all  shades  and  hues. 
The  whole  debatable  ground  lying  between 
them  and  us  must  usually  be  gone  over,  and  a 
full  account  of  one  such  day’s  work  would  fill  a 
volume. 

Our  evening  ride  back  over  the  open  plain 
was  delightful  after  our  long  day’s  work  in  the 
hot,  dusty  street.  The  country  here  is  more 
beautiful  than  in  Upper  Egypt.  Though  the 
picture  here  lacks  the  frame-work  of  the  Lybian 
and  Arabian  hills,  which  there  so  heightens  the 
effect,  we  have  here  the  sublimity  of  apparently 
endless  expansion,  and  the  eye  is  relieved  by 
ihade  trees  much  more  thickly  scattered  over 
the  surface.  Here,  too,  is  wanting  the  “ sha- 
doof” with  its  saddening  idea  of  crushing  toil, 
and  the  sakias  are  in  groups  on  the  shady  banks 
of  the  canal ; and  their  concert  of  creaking 
wheels  and  flowing  waters,  enlivened  by  the 
cheerful  crack  of  the  whips  of  the  drivers,  and 
their  lively  songs,  inspiriting  the  laboring  beasts, 
is  much  better  than  their  solitary  groan  in  the 
Said.  Camels,  with  towering  sacks  of  the  pre- 
cious cotton  balancing  on  each  side,  were  wend- 


PREPARATION — THE  CARaVAN.  387 


ing  their  way  with  stately,  measured  step  to  the 
market,  while  all  around  the  new  cotton  crop 
was  just  sprouting  from  the  carefully-leveled  and 
ridged  fields.  Happy  Egypt,  in  these  days  of 
America’s  distress ! 

1 1th.  In  the  night  we  dropped  down  to  the 
landing-place  opposite  Damiane ; and  in  the 
morning,  before  it  was  yet  light,  were  awakened 
by  the  vociferous  screams  and  quarrels  of  the 
pilgrims,  who,  the  day  before,  and  during  the 
night,  had  reached  this  stage  of  the  journey,  and 
were  now  preparing  for  the  land-journey  of 
three  hours  to  the  convent.  Such  a scene  of  noise 
and  confusion  as  is  the  first  morning  of  starting 
of  an  Eastern  caravan,  when  all  the  bargains  are 
to  be  made  and  the  loads  proportioned  and  ar- 
ranged, cannot  be  described  nor  imagined ; it 
must  be  seen.  We,  too,  secured  our  animals, 
and  a little  after  sunrise  Avere  all  in  motion — 
and  a picturesque  cavalcade  we  were — camels, 
horses,  mules  and  asses,  about  sixty  in  number, 
and  laden  with  towering  loads  of  tents,  boxes, 
beds,  and  all  the  paraphernalia  of  kitchen  furni- 
ture, and  surmounted  by  a motley  crowd,  men 
and  women,  boys  and  girls,  and  tender  infants — 
white,  black  and  copper-colored,  and  all,  re- 
leased from  the  toils  and  confinement  of  the 
tOAvn,  and,  with  the  great  feast  in  prospect,  in 
high  and  exhuberant  spirits. 

Tha  convent  soon  loomed  up  before  us,  yet 


388 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


eight  oi'  ten  miles  distant,  appearing  with  its 
white  walls  like  a marble  castle  standing  in  the 
midst  of  a wide-spread  lake  formed  by  the  de- 
ceitful waters  of  the  mirage.  I have  never  seen 
this  phenomenon  so  perfect  as  during  those  few 
days  on  this  plain.  It  seemed  quite  impossible 
to  believe  it  a pure  illusion,  and  I often  found 
myself  half  determined  to  start  olf  for  a hath  and 
a sail.  W e tried  to  stir  up  our  weary  animals, 
but  neither  they  nor  their  drivers  had  a mind  to 
leave  the  caravan.  Finally  we  reached  our  des- 
tination, and  found  our  man  with  the  tent  and 
boxes  of  books  awaiting  us.  We  immediately 
commenced  setting  up  the  former,  but  were 
much  vexed  to  find  that,  notwithstanding  our 
strict  charges  to  our  friends  at  Alexandria  to 
send  it  to  us  all  right,  one  of  its  sides  was  want- 
ing, and  so  we  were  left  to  broil  by  day  and 
freeze  by  night,  like  Jacob  with  the  flocks  of 
Laban — a process  which,  after  three  days,  made 
it  necessary  for  me  to  leave  in* the  midst  of  the 
feast. 

After  arranging  as  well  as  we  could  our  tem- 
porary habitation,  we  went  up  to  see  the  Sitt 
and  the  Reis,  or  head  of  the  convent,  our  old 
friend,  Father  Makar.  This  Makar  I had  met 
a year  previous  at  the  convent  of  the  saint  whose 
name  he  bears,  in  the  Nitron  Lakes.  But  how 
changed ! Then,  he  was  a poor  monk,  bare- 
footed, and  with  a homespun  zaboot.  Now,  he 


THE  CONVENT  OF  DAMIANE. 


389 


lias  shoes  and  stockings,  and  dons  an  expansive 
cloth  cloak  over  a silk  tunic,  and  flourishes  a 
long  staff.  Then,  he  was  glad  to  walk  with  me 
six  hours  over  the  desert  to  the  other  convent 
for  a few  piastres  ; now,  he  has  come  here  to 
swallow  his  thousands.  Then,  I found  him  in 
our  long  walk  a very  attentive  and  interested 
listener  to  the  doctrines  of  Protestantism,  and 
especially  to  the  gospel  of  matrimony,  winch  is 
usually  the  only  gospel  which  brings  glad  tidings 
to  the  monks.  Now,  he  is  cold  and  stiff  and  dis- 
tant. But  Father  Makhiel,  who  was  then  the 
Abbot  of  his  convent,  and  he  his  factotum,  has 
since  been  made  Patriarch  and  occupies  the 
throne  of  St.  Mai’k,  and  as  his  most  tried  and 
trusty  man  has  sent  him  here  as  Reis  of  the  con- 
vent to  work  this  rich  mine  of  wealth. 

The  convent  is  a high  inclosure  about  one 
hundred  paces  square,  surmounted  by  numerous 
small  domes  which  form  tlie  roof ; and  it  is  ac- 
counted one  of  the  wonders  of  the  Sitt  that  no 
man  can  count  them — that  is  to  say,  no  two  men 
can  agree  as  to  the  number ; one  making  them 
one  hundred  and  fifty,  and  another  more  or  less. 
In  this  inclosure  is,  first,  a small  open  court,  then 
a good-sized  church  with  numerous  other  smaller 
chapels,  and  the  rooms  of  the  monks,  of  whom 
only  three  now  remain  here.  Every  thihg  is 
dirty  and  untidy  and  out  of  repair,  as  it  must 
needs  be  to  be  Coptic. 

33* 


390 


Egypt’s  princes. 


To  tlie  left  of  the  dark  passage  leading  into 
the  church  is  a small  room  about  twelve  feet 
square,  surmounted  by  a dome,  and  lighted  by 
two  apertures  about  a foot  square,  one  opening 
to  the  north  and  the  other  to  the  east.  Here 
are  witnessed  those  miracles  of  the  Sitt,  which 
draw  together  these  crowds  oi  people  from  all 
parts  of  Egypt.  The  northen  aperture  opens 
upon  a low  roof  several  feet  belc  w it,  and  ten  or 
fifteen  feet  wide,  and  in  front  of  this  are  several 
upper  rooms  which,  during  the  feast,  are  let  to 
visitors.  These,  passing  to  and  fro,  cast  their 
inverted  shadows  upon  the  sides  of  the  dome 
within  on  the  principle  of  the  camera  obscura , 
while  the  expectant  worshipers  within,  who  con- 
stantly crowd  the  room  almost  to  suffocation, 
invoke,  with  loud  cries  and  upstretched  hands, 
at  each  appearance  of  the  apparitions,  their  fa- 
vorite saints : “ O Sitt  Damiane,  defender  of  the 
two  seas  and  the  two^ands,  preserve  the  children 
and  save  them  !”  “ O Mary,  most  blessed  Mother 
of  God,  regard  us!”  “O  Saint  George,  thou 
mighty  warrior,  help  !”  “ O Father  of  the  two 

swords,  heal  us !”  and  so  on  to  the  end  of  the 
calendar.  (I  may  remark  in  passing  that  the 
“ Father  of  the  two  swords”  is  the  saint  who  has 
under  his  special  care  the  votaries  of  Yenus.) 
Such  a scene  of  blind  superstition  as  that  room 
constantly  presented  I never  before  witnessed. 

When  we  reached  the  convert  we  found  only 


OUR  BOOK-SHOP  SECURED. 


391 


thirty  or  forty  tents.  They  mostly  belonged  to 
tradesmen,  who,  like  ourselves,  had  come  early 
to  secure  a position.  The  number  of  those  who 
had  brought  their  barrels  of  wine  and  great 
demijohns  of  arrack,  and  had  already  so  tempt- 
ingly arranged  their  many-colored  bottles  in  their 
booths,  gave  promise  of  lively  times.  Within 
the  court  of  the  convent  were  a few  choice  shops, 
and  we  found  we  were  in  time  for  just  the  one 
we  wished  beside  the  church  door,  the  price  of 
which  had  been  too  high  for  those  who  preceded 
us.  Awid,  however,  with  his  usual  business 
tact,  secured  possession  for  four  dollars,  which 
he  insisted  was  sufficient  hire  for  the  week, 
though  our  friend  Makar  insisted  as  stoutly  that 
it  was  only  the  pledge  to  nail  the  bargain,  and 
that  the  full  rent  must  be  forthcoming  at  the 
end  of  the  week.  Awid,  however,  carried  his 
point ; for  he  maintained  that,  in  selling  Bibles 
and  religious  books,  we  were  doing  the  work  of 
the  Church,  which  they  should  do,  and  therefore 
they  should  give  us  the  shop  free.  And  truly 
four  dollars  seemed  enough  for  a little  open  stall 
three  feet  by  four,  which  could  boast  of  nothings 
but  its  position ; for  there  every  person  who 
visited  the  Sitt  or  entered  the  church  must  pass, 
and  almost  step  over  us  and  our  books.  But 
this  bargain  was  only  a specimen  of  the  system, 
of  gouging  which  was  there  carried  on.  Six 
piastres  for  a water-jar,  and  eleven  for  a small 


392 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


tent  mat,  of  which  hundreds  were  needed  by  the 
visitors,  and  other  things  in  proportion ; the  full 
price  of  the  article  charged  for  its  hire  for  a week, 
and  this  year  after  year  ! One  would  think  they 
would  be  satisfied  with  the  thousands  which 
come  in  as  regular  fees  for  priestly  services 
done,  and  votive  offerings,  and  that  they  would 
exercise  the  famous  Egyptian  hospitality  in  these 
smaller  matters.  But  this  is  a great  money- 
making institution,  and  it  must  be  worked  to 
the  utmost. 

This  piece  of  business  finished,  we  returned  to 
our  tent  for  the  evening,  where  we  found  Bar- 
sum,  a friend  of  Awid,  from  Mansoura,  who  had 
at  last  year’s  Mulid  bravely  stood  by  Awid  in  a 
hard-fought  battle  about  the  truth  of  the  phan- 
toms in  the  chamber  of  imagery,  in  which  Awid’s 
infidelity  cost  him  a sound  beating.  Barsum  is 
a noble,  intelligent  and  pious  man — one  of  the 
princes  who  should  “ come  out  of  Egypt.”  He 
stuck  to  us  through  our  three  days’  battle,  and 
each  evening  he  invited  us  to  dine  and  spend  the 
evening  with  him,  where  we  enjoyed  the  oppor- 
tunity of  speaking  the  Word  to  many  of  his  circle 
of  acquaintance. 

The  next  morning  we  commenced  work  in 
our  little  shop,  and  as  the  crowds  were  now 
coming  in  we  were  kept  busy  enough.  As  I 
usually  find  that  the  more  I have  to  work  the 
less  I write,  my  notes  of  these  three  days  of 


THE  SELLING  OF  BOOKS. 


393 


hard  work  are  very  scanty,  and  I must  fill  up 
the  brief  outline  chiefly  from  memory.  My  plan 
was  to  spend  the  forenoon  and  part  of  the  after- 
noon at  the  shop,  helping  Awid.  Then,  when 
the  reclining  sun  gave  me  a shady  spot  beside 
our  tent,  I went  down,  and,  spreading  our  mats, 
a small  audience  of  passers-by,  of  whom  Barsum 
and  his  friends  usually  formed  the  nucleus,  gath- 
ered together,  and  I spent  an  hour  reading  and 
talking  to  them,  and  then  in  the  evening  in  Bar- 
sum’s  large  tent.  Occasionally,  too,  I would 
retire  from  the  sultry  heat  and  exciting  discus- 
sions of  the  shop  to  the  seething  suffocation  of 
the  phantom-room  to  witness  what  was  going 
on  there,  and  then  to  the  church,  whose  high 
arches  furnished  a delightfully  cool  retreat,  where 
I would  sit  awhile  on  a mat  and  refresh  myself 
while  viewing  the  doings  of  those  who  came 
there  to  pay  their  vows  and  offer  their  devotions 
to  the  Sitt.  I will  try  to  convey  some  idea  of 
what  was  going  on  at  each  of  these  places. 

First,  at  the  book-shop.  We  were  almost 
constantly  surrounded  by  a circle,  wrho  were 
purchasing  or  reading  our  books.  The  Copts, 
before  buying,  usually  wish  to  dip  here  and  there 
pretty  deeply  into  a book  to  see  if  it  is  orthodox 
doctrine.  This,  when  one  is  in  a hurry,  is  a great 
vexation  ; for  they  are  never  in  a hurry,  and  will 
not  be  pressed.  When  one  has  time  enough  it 
is  profitable ; for  these  readings  often  bring  up 


394 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


passages  which  call  for  explanation  and  lead  to 
discussions,  and  thus  there  is  never  any  lack  of 
a text  and  a subject.  One  never  need  come  to 
these  encounters  with  any  set  speech,  for  it  can- 
not be  foreseen  what  direction  the  discussion 
will  take.  A warm  heart,  a ready  tongue,  an 
intimate  acquaintance  with  the  prejudices  and 
notions  of  those  addressed,  and  a fund  of  Scrip- 
ture proofs  always  at  hand — these  are  the  re- 
quisites for  success  in  this  work.  We  had  two 
of  our  men  from  the  boat  with  us.  One  of  these 
we  left  at  the  tent  to  guard  the  stuff  and  make 
provision  for  our  bodily  wants,  and  the  other 
we  sent  around  among  the  tents  with  a bag  of 
books,  and  he  had  good  success  in  selling  to 
those  who  did  not  come  up  to  the  church,  or  did 
not  wish  to  purchase  there. 

Let  us  go  in  for  a while  to  see  what  is  doing 
in  the  chamber  of  imagery,  the  camera  obscura, 
where  the  miraculous  phantoms  pass  and  repass 
on  the  wall.  It  is  crowded,  and  the  close  air 
and  stench  from  so  many  dirty,  sweaty  bodies  is 
almost  insufferable.  During  the  intervals  of  the 
apparitions  a man,  who  seemed  to  have  this  de- 
partment in  charge,  chanted  in  a low  and  not 
unmusical  voice  the  praises  of  the  Virgin  and 
the  Sitt ; and  then,  when  the  shadow  comes,  he 
and  all,  with  uplifted  hands  or  outstretched 
necks,  scream  out  the  ejaculations  and  prayers. 
When  these  shadows  flitted  over  the  wall  the 


THE  CHAMBER  OF  IMAGERY. 


395 


people  below  put  me  in  mind  of  a nest  of  young 
birds,  with  outstretched  necks,  open  bills,  and 
chattering  throats,  awaiting  the  mother  bird 
hovering  over  them.  Once,  when  the  interval 
was  longer  than  usual,  the  man  who  chanted 
entertained  the  astonished  group,  by  relating 
how,  early  that  morning,  he  came  there  alone, 
and  the  Virgin  and  St.  George  came  and  stood 
there  more  than  an  hour.  He  said  they  looked 
down  upon  him  as  if  they  would  speak  to  him, 
but  they  did  not,  and  he  did  not  dare  to  speak 
to  them,  but  stood  fixed  in  his  place  and  af- 
frighted. 

Several  times,  when  the  people  saw  that  I had 
no  petitions  to  offer,  and  made  no  demonstra- 
tions when  the  shadows  passed  (there  may,  too, 
have  been  something  of  incredulity,  perhaps  of 
sarcasm,  in  my  countenance),  they  came  to  me 
and  privately  asked  what  I had  to  say  of  this. 
I plainly  told  them  that  the  shadows  were  pro- 
duced by  people  walking  on  the  roof  before  the 
aperture,  and  I also  constantly  told  the  truth  tc 
the  people  whom  we  met,  especially  in  the  tenl 
of  Barsum ; but  Awid  and  I had  agreed  that  we 
would  reserve  our  full  exposure  upon  the  house- 
tops of  this  great  imposture  till  the  last  great 
day  of  the  feast,  when  our  books  should  all  have 
been  sold.  Otherwise  we  knew  our  work  would 
be  stopped  in  the  very  midst,  and  we  thought  a 
little  of  the  wisdom  of  the  serpent  in  place  here. 


396 


Egypt’s  princes.  ' 


One  day  a deranged  girl  was  brought  in  to 
have  the  devil  cast  out  of  her.  Poor  thing ! 
There  she  sat  in  the  midst  of  the  crowd  sweat- 
ing and  gasping  for  breath,  while  those  around 
her  were  constantly  vexing  her  by  asking  if  she 
felt  no  better  nor  different ; if  the  devil  was  not 
yet  coming  out  of  her,  and  the  like.  I am  sure 
if  she  had  had  seven  devils,  or  even  a legion  in 
her,  they  would,  under  such  a discipline,  have 
taken  their  flight  for  more  comfortable  quarters. 
I do  not  think  she  was  deranged ; but  whatever 
may  have  been  her  state,  this  course  of  treat- 
ment must  produce  some  effect.  If  mad,  it 
might  possibly  make  her  sane ; if  sane,  it  was 
enough  to  craze  her.  They  say  that  in  such 
cases,  when  the  demon  comes  out,  he  leaves  a 
spot  of  blood  on  the  garment  above  the  place 
where  he  makes  his  exodus.  I have  heard  many 
strange  stories  on  this  subject,  but  have  not  yet 
sufficiently  sifted  them  to  expose  the  cheat. 

They  said,  that  not  only  did  the  shadows  ap- 
pear by  day,  but  forms  of  light  passed  over  the 
wall  by  night.  These,  I suppose,  were  from 
persons  carrying  lanterns  on  the  roof.  I went 
up  two  different  evenings,  and  though  the  room 
was  crowded  with  people  as  by  day,  we  saw 
nothing  ; all  was  darkness.  One  night  some  gig- 
gling and  other  demonstrations  gave  evidence 
that  some  Greek  lads  and  lasses,  or  other  inter- 
loping Infidels,  were  forgetting  themselves,  oi' 


OUR  LADY  DAMIANE. 


397 


rather,  were  thinking  too  much  of  themselves 
and  each  other,  and  forgetting  the  sanctity  of 
the  place,  when  an  old  Coptess  fell  upon  them 
and  gave  them  such  a sound  cursing  that  they 
were  glad  to  retreat. 

But  we  have  breathed  this  stifling  atmosphere 
long  enough.  Let  us  go  into  the  church  and 
sit  down  upon  the  cool  floor  awhile,  and  see 
what  is  going  on  there.  The  mats  are  new  and 
clean.  The  silk  curtains  before  the  altars  are 
the  gayest  and  newest  of  the  large  store  which 
devotees  have  brought  as  votive  offerings  to  the 
Sitt,  and  all  is  in  holiday  dress,  for  on  the  last 
great  day  of  the  feast  the  Patriarch  himself  is  to 
perform  high  mass  here;  and  the  picture  of  the 
Sitt,  surrounded  by  her  forty  Virgins,  looks  less 
stiff  and  formal  and  staring  than  the  stereotype 
pattern  which  may  be  seen  in  all  the  Coptic 
churches  throughout  the  land.  Indeed  she  seems 
almost  smiling  upon  the  worshipers  who  file 
along  as  each  of  them  stops  to  pay  her  his  devo- 
tions. The  walls  are  disfigured  by  charcoal  re- 
membrances, “ O Lord,  remember  thy  servant 
Abdallah !”  “ O Sitt  Damiane,  help  !”  etc.,  as 

well  as  snatches  from  the  Gospel  and  Psalms. 

But  here  are  our  friends  the  priests,  plying 
their  money-making  trade.  Two  of  them  are 
now  sitting  before  a woman,  holding  their  hands 
and  a beautifully  jeweled  cross  upon  her  head, 
while  one  of  them  is  repeating  prayers  to  cure 
34 


398 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


her  of  headache.  She  must  he  well  attended  to 
and  thoroughly  cured,  for  she  has  brought  to  the 
Sitt  a candle  four  feet  long  and  two  inches  thick, 
which  is  now  burning  before  her  picture.  (As 
soon  as  the  lady  left,  the  candle  was  put  out  and 
set  aside ; doubtless  to  be  sold  to  some  other 
devotee  of  the  Sitt  wishing  to  do  a nice  thing 
for  her,  or  to  be  used  on  some  great  occasion 
when  all  *the  congregation  would  say,  “ See  how 
liberally  the  priests  have  provided  for  their 
patroness  !”) 

The  third  priest  has  a stout  young  man  in 
hand  who  has  been  troubled  with  a pain  in  the 
side.  His  doting  mother  stands  by,  as  his  side 
is  bared  and  anointed  with  holy  oil  “ in  the  name 
of  the  Lord  Jesus,  and  all  the  saints  and  Sittna 
Damiane,”  and  hereafter  it  will  doubtless  be 
well.  He  has  done  with  him  now,  and  received 
the  fee  in  cash,  and  next,  pulling  down  a little 
open  lamp  which  is  burning  before  the  picture, 
he  dips  his  finger  into  the  oil  and  addresses  him- 
self to  the  task  of  crossing  with  it,  upon  their 
foreheads  and  between  their  breasts,  some  ladies 
who  have  come  to  him  for  the  purpose.  I trust 
his  heart  is  in  the  prayer  which  in  the  mean  time 
he  is  mumbling ; but  the  Copts  generally  are 
beginning  to  whisper  among  themselves  that 
this  is  not  the  business  for  monks  who  are  under 
the  vow. 

This  done,  he  turns  to  a man  who  wishes  to 


SUPERSTITIOUS  PERFORMANCES.  399 


buy  and  devote  to  the  Sitt  an  oke  (two  and  three- 
quarters  pounds)  of  candles.  The  price  is  twenty 
piastres  (a  double  charge  of  course),  and  the  man 
objects  to  the  imposition,  and  an  angry  dispute 
is  the  consequence. 

This  will  suffice  for  a specimen  of  the  doings 
of  the  priests.  The  people  are  constantly  going 
and  coming  ; and  many,  tempted  like  ourselves 
by  the  cool  shade  of  these  high  arches,  sit  down 
and  smoke  and  talk.  The  boys  are  around  play- 
ing and  fighting  and  enjoying  themselves  gener- 
ally ; and  to  fill  out  the  picture,  myself  sitting 
cross-legged  upon  the  mat  with  my  back  sup- 
ported by  the  reading-desk,  and  pencil  and  paper 
in  hand,  “ A chiel  amang  them  taking  notes,  and 
faith  he’ll  prent  ’em.”  On  entering,  most  of  the 
people  do  the  round  of  the  altars  and  pictures, 
performing  their  genuflections  and  crossings, 
and  blessing  themselves  by  rubbing  their  faces 
with  the  curtains,  and  touching  or  kissing  the 
frames  of  the  pictures.  One  I saw  who  had  a 
sore  eye.  He  touched  the  picture  repeatedly 
with  his  finger,  and  then  passed  it  over  his  eye. 
I have  not  heard  whether  he  afterward  found 
that  virtue  had  gone  out  of  the  sightless  wood 
to  make  him  see. 

I also  peeped  in  in  the  evenings,  when  I came 
to  see  the  bright  shadows  upon  the  wall.  I 
found  that  at  night  also  the  church  was  a favor- 
ite resort,  as  it  was  not  only  cool  by  day  but 


400 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


warmer  than  the  open  air  by  night ; small  par- 
ties were  seated  here  and  there  upon  the  floor, 
some  of  them  smoking  and  drinking  and  playing 
cards.  I witnessed  one  act  there  which  was 
the  most  Christian  one  I saw  in  all  the  Mulid. 
One  of  these  parties  had  become  rather  boister- 
ous, and  an  old  woman  in  the  outer  department 
of  the  church  began  to  curse  them,  and  ask  them 
if  they  were  Jews,  that  they  were  thus  drinking 
and  going  on  in  church?  I think,  from  her 
voice,  that  it  was  she  who  cursed  the  Greeks  for 
“ cutting  up”  the  night  before  in  the  Sitt’s  room. 
When  she  spoke  she  did  not  see  who  they  were ; 
but  she  soon  learned  who  one  of  them  was,  to 
her  sorrow  ; for  a young  man  who,  through  the 
Mulid,  had  made  himself  conspicuous  by  his  sil- 
ver-wrought girdle  and  fine  horse  and  swagger- 
ing gait,  sprang  out  before  her  like  a wild  beast, 
and  asked  her  what  she  meant  to  call  the  son  of 

a Jew,  and  dealt  her  a sounding  slap  upon 

the  cheek.  Her  feathers  dropped.  She  humbly 
apologized  that  she  did  not  know  that  the  son 

of was  there ; but  she  added,  “ should  you 

strike  an  old  woman  thus  ?”  and  turning  her 
other  cheek,  she  said,  “ Strike  this  one  also ; the 
Gospel  says  we  must  do  so.” 

And  now  let  us  take  a stroll  among  the  tents. 
They  are  pitched  very  closely  together  and  at 
random,  without  plan  or  regularity,  so  that  one 
has  to  be  constantly  on  his  guard  lest  he  be 


FEASTING  AND  DRINKING. 


401 


tripped  up  by  the  ropes.  By  day  the  men  are 
mostly  quiet,  sleeping  off  the  effects  of  last 
night’s  debauch.  The  women  and  female  slaves 
(and  I never  before  realized  that  so  many  of  the 
Copts  possessed  them)  are  about,  attending  to 
the  duties  of  the  kitchen  or  gossiping  from  tent 
to  tent.  The  Bedouins  are  in  the  outskirts  of 
the  encampment  with  their  flocks  of  sheep,  and, 
like  Israel  on  the  night  of  the  Passover,  almost 
each  house,  “according  to  the  eating  thereof,” 
must  daily  have  its  lamb.  The  servants  of  the 
Sitt  are  carrying  up  tro  the  convent  back-loads 
of  pelts ; for  the  law  of  Moses  here  reigns,  and 
the  skins  are  the  perquisite  of  the  priests.  Of- 
ten, too,  a choice  quarter  with  the  “rump  (tail), 
and  the  fat  thereof,”  are  sent  up  with  the  pelts. 
By  night,  feasting  and  drinking  are  the  order  of 
the  programme.  I have  already  intimated  that 
Venus  is  no  favorite  with  the  Sitt ; and  it  is  well, 
or  this  would  be  a hell.  But  surely  Bacchus 
must  have  been  her  brother-in-law,  or  some  other 
very  near  relative,  for  in  all  my  residence  in  the 
East  I have  not  seen  so  much  drinking  as  dming 
those  few  days. 

But  my  stay  here  must  be  brought  abruptly 
to  a close.  I undertook  this  journey,  fleeing 
from  the  sentence  of  the  doctors  that  I must  go 
home,  and  hoping  by  it  to  secure  a stock  of 
health  which  would  carry  me  through  the  hot 
summer  at  Cairo.  But  the  labors  bv  day,  and 
34* 


402 


EGYPT'S  PRINCES. 


the  cold  bed  upon  the  ground  in  the  open  tent 
by  night,  were  too  much  for  me,  and  Wednesday 
afternoon  I concluded  to  leave  the  next  morn- 
ing. That  night  the  hospitality  of  our  new- 
made  friends,  made  it  necessary  for  me  to  feign 
to  eat  three  dinners,  and  give  offence  by  declin- 
ing a fourth.  The  last  of  the  three  was  at  our 
friend  Barsum’s.  It  was  late  in  the  evening,  and 
I was  sorry  to  find  him  and  his  friends  squatting 
in  a circle  in  the  midst  of  the  tent  around  the 
arrack  cups.  I read  him  a lecture  on  temper- 
ance, or  rather  total  abstinence,  as  he  had  never 
been  free  in  the  use  of  the  article — to  all  of 
which  he  heartily  assented.  When  rising,  and 
extending  my  hand,  I told  him  that  I too  was  a 
priest,  and  had  the  power  of  binding  and  loos- 
ing, as  well  as  he  who  had  that  day  prohibited 
his  brother  priest  from  praying  or  baptizing,  he 
took  my  hand,  and  solemnly  pledged  his  faith 
that  he  would  not  again  touch  the  cup  which 
was  working  such  havoc  around.  He  had  evi- 
dently long  felt  it  his  duty  to  take  this  step  ; and 
once  taken,  he  felt  so  joyful  over  it  that  he  wished 
at  once  to  go  into  the  other  tent  to  tell  his 
wife  and  children. 

After  dinner,  Awid,  weary  with  the  labors  of 
the  day,  Avent  to  our  tent  to  sleep,  and  I Avent 
up  Avith  Barsum  and  tAVO  or  three  of  his  friends 
for  a final  visit  to  the  convent.  We  found  Ma- 
kar, Avith  his  three  trusty  priests  and  a feAv 


THE  SHADOW  DELUSION. 


403 


friends,  sitting  on  tlie  seat  without  the  convent 
gate,  eating  a late  supper,  after  the  long  toils 
of  the  day.  As  Barsum,  although  apparently 
convinced  of  the  truth  of  my  explanation  of  the 
day  shadows,  seemed  yet  to  be  staggered  with 
the  report  of  the  night  apparitions,  I took  him 
within  to  the  Sitt’s  room,  and  we  remained  some 
time,  but  saw  nothing.  It  was  crowded,  as  usual ; 
and  while  there  my  spirit  was  so  stirred  within 
me  that,  notwithstanding  the  compact  Awid  and 
I had  made  not  to  disturb  the  shadows  until  the 
books  were  sold,  I felt  that  I could  not  leave 
without  at  least  making  an  attempt  with  Makar 
and  the  priests,  who  had  been  so  kind  to  us  dur- 
ing our  stay.  On  our  return  we  found  that  they 
had  finished  discussing  their  dinner  and  the  day’s 
toils  and  gains,  and  were  quietly  enjoying  their 
post-prandial  pipes  and  coffee.  They  bade  us 
be  seated,  when,  as  kindly  as  I could  (and  it  was 
not  a put-on  kindness,  for  my  heart  yearned 
over  those  deluded  ones  within  ),  I opened  the 
subject.  I told  him  that  he  should  shut  that 
orifice  in  the  Sitt’s  room ; that,  as  he  had  come 
there  so  recently,  we  could  not  yet  suppose  him 
a willing  party  in  the  cheat ; but  that  it  was 
lamentable  to  see  Christ’s  servants,  purchased 
with  his  precious  blood,  thus  worshiping  shad- 
ows, etc.  At  first  he  was  much  confused,  and 
pretended  not  to  understand  to  what  I referred  ; 
but  he  soon  recovered  himself,  and  insisted  that 


404 


Egypt’s  princes. 


the  shadows  were  true  miracles,  and  started  off 
in  the  praise  of  the  many  virtues  and  wonders 
of  the  Sitt.  I told  him,  “ Very  well ; if  the  mir- 
acle be  true,  let  us  stop  up  the  aperture,  and  the 
shadows  will  still  appear — that  the  east  one 
would  still  be  open,  and  was  enough  for  light 
and  ventilation.”  lie  said,  “Do  so  ; stop  it  up  if 
you  wish  but  at  the  same  time  told  a story  of 
a man  who  one  year  undertook  to  stop  it  with 
his  coat,  and  the  Sitt  burned  his  coat ; I told 
him  I would  risk  my  coat ; and  acting  on  his 
permission,  I started  for  the  gate,  but  he  called 
me  back ; and  then  he  threw  aside  the  veil,  and 
stood  forth  the  bold  deceiver.  He  used  language 
which  implied  that  he  knew  it  was  a cheat ; but 
that  it  would  not  answer  to  stop  it  up — that  the 
people  would  not  endure  it,  etc.  In  this  latter 
I have  no  doubt  he  was  right ; that  the  next  day 
had  the  people  found  that  their  shadowy  gods 
had  disappeared,  there  would  have  been  found  a 
crowd,  like  that  of  Ephesus,  to  cry  by  the  hour, 
“ Great  is  Damiane,  protectress  of  the  two  seas 
and  the  two  lands !”  and  that,  were  it  known 
that  he  and  I had  spirited  away  the  shadows, 
they  would  have  been  ready  to  tear  us  in  pieces. 
I told  him  that  I had  to  leave  the  next  morn- 
ing ; that  I had  now  done  my  duty  in  warning 
him  of  this  imposture  ; and  that,  if  he  did  not 
put  a stop  to  it,  I could  not  be  held  responsible 
if  I exposed  the  cheat  to  the  public,  and  made 


ADIEU  TO  THE  SITTNA. 


405 


Lis  name  and  that  of  the  Sitt  stink  in  all  the  land 
of  Egyjit.  He  said  I should  not  be  responsible, 
and  so  I left  him. 

When  I got  down  to  the  tent,  and  awaked 
Awid  and  told  him  what  I had  done,  he  was 
much  concerned  as  to  the  reception  he  and  his 
books  would  meet  with  the  next  day ; but  I 
knew  he  was,  as  the  Arabs  say,  “ as  big  as  his 
position,”  which,  being  interpreted,  means  equal 
to  any  emergency,  and  that,  in  case  of  trouble,  he 
would  have  a strong  party  with  him.  . 

Next  morning  I arose  early  for  the  journey, 
and  found  that  Barsumhad  provided  a very  fine 
horse  for  me.  As  I was  leaving,  I saw  that  Ma_ 
kar  was  already  up  and  without  the  convent 
gate.  I rode  up  to  him,  and  bade  him  farewell ; 
but  there  was  an  evident  coolness  in  his  manner, 
and  he  barely  touched  with  the  tips  of  his  fingers 
my  cordially  extended  hand,  while  he  for- 
mally wished  me  a safe  journey  and  a happy  return 
of  my  visit  to  the  Sitt.  I turned  from  him, 
vowing  vengeance  in  my  heart  against  him  and 
his  Sitt,  and  planning  how  I might  best  execute 
it — whether  by  writing  and  publishing  an  ex- 
posure of  the  imposture,  or  by  arranging  one  of 
the  rooms  in  our  mission-house  at  Cairo  as  a 
camera  obscura,  and  inviting  the  pilgrims,  on 
their  return  by  way  of  Cairo  to  come  up  and 
witness  greater  miracles  than  those  they  had 
gone  so  far  to  see.  (This  I did  one  year  at  Al- 


406 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


exandria,  when  the  pilgrims  returned  there  from 
the  Mulid,  loud  in  the  praise  of  the  Sitt  and  her 
miracles.)  But  what  took  place  there  that  day, 
and  the  course  pursued  by  the  Patriarch  and 
Bishop — the  highest  authorities  in  the  church — 
convinced  me  that  the  time  for  such  open  war 
had  not  yet  arrived.  That  morning  Awid  went 
up  to  the  shop  with  just  apprehensions  as  to  the 
reception  he  and  his  books  would  meet  with  from 
Makar  and  his  friends.  He  opened  and  arranged 
his  wares,  but  no  one  came  to  purchase.  He 
waited — still  no  one  came.  He  then  shut  his  shop, 
and  went  directly  to  the  Patriarch  and  asked 
him  why  he  had  prohibited  the  people  from  buy- 
ing books.  The  Patriarch  called  God  to  wit- 
ness that  he  had  done  no  such  thing  ; but  Awid 
insisted  that  he  must  have  done  so,  as  all  the 
people  had  suddenly  stopped  buying.  The 
Patriarch  then  called  Makar  up,  and  the  matter 
was  explained,  and  he  said,  “ Why  did  not  Mr. 

L sj)eak  to  me  about  it,  and  I would  have 

suffered  him  to  shut  the  orifice  ?’  He  then 
went  down  and  the  Bishop  with  him,  and  each 
of  them  bought  a Bible,  and  paid  the  price  before 
all  the  people,  and  then,  holding  them  up,  said, 
“ See  we  have  bought  books  ; come  now,  all  of 
you,  and  buy.”  There  was  then  a rush  for  the 
book-shop,  and  all  its  Bibles  and  Testaments, 
and  most  of  the  other  books,  were  soon  sold. 

Barsum’s  horse  took  me  down  to  the  river  be- 


A REMARKABLY  HOT  DAY. 


407 


fore  the  sun  became  hot;  and  well  it  was,  for  I 
was  hardly  in  the  boat  and  started,  before  it 
turned  to  be  the  hottest  day  I ever  experienced 
in  Egypt.  Indeed,  the  oldest  resident  tells  noth- 
ing of  any  such  day,  and  had  we  many  such, 
Egypt  would  deserve  the  epithet  usually  applied 
to  it  by  the  Syrians,  Gehennem.  Not  a breath 
'of  wind  was  stirring.  The  air  was  as  hot  as  the 
blast  of  a furnace.  A dark,  misty  haze  hung 
over  the  dead  waters  of  the  river  in  which 
the  cattle  and  buffaloes  were  lying,  the  latter 
with  only  their  eyes  and  nostrils  out  of  water, 
which  also  they  occasionally  plunged  under  by 
way  of  driving  away  the  flies,  and  among  them 
the  men  and  boys  of  the  villages  ; the  latter,  by 
their  joyous  shouts  and  gambols,  furnishing  the 
only  exhibition  of  life  that  coidd  bo  seen,  the 
cool  water  counterbalancing  with  them  the 
effects  of  the  hot  air.  The  women,  too,  as  they 
came  down  with  their  water-jars  threw  them 
down,  and  stripping  off  their  loose  robes  plunged 
in  with  the  rest;  and  the  swallows,  quitting 
their  gay  gyrations  in  the  air,  were  sitting  dis- 
consolately on  the  beach,  wondering  why  they, 
too,  might  not  bathe.  I followed  the  example 
of  the  rest,  and  retired  to  the  bath-room  and  sat 
in  the  cold  water  as  long  as  I dared ; and  then, 
when  I came  out,  it  was  but  a few  minutes  until 
my  mouth  and  nostrils  were  again  parched,  and 
my  brain  as  if  bursting  from  heat.  The  covers 


408 


Egypt’s  princes. 


of  the  books  around  were  twisting  and  writhing 
as  if  in  agony ; and  the  flies,  attracted  by  the 
shade  and  the  scent  of  the  lunch  I had  brought 
with  me,  came  in  by  thousands  to  vex  me  with 
that  pertinacious  clinging  to  one  which  is  the 
peculiarity  of  the  Egyptian  fly.  The  deck  was 
so  hot  that  I could  not  stand  upon  it  in  my 
stockings ; and  to  crown  all,  when  evening  came” 
and  I unrolled  the  lunch  which  they  had  given 
me  at  the  tents — a cooked  chicken  and  some 
meat  and  bread — I found  it  a mass  of  putridity, 
and  I supped  and  breakfasted  the  next  morning 
on  a cup  of  tea  without  milk  or  sugar,  and  a 
piece  of  hard  tack  begged  from  the  sailor  ; and 
hard  and  black  enough  it  was.  So  much  for  an 
Egyptian  sirocco.  Home  and  its  comforts  were 
eventually  reached,  and  were  most  welcome ; 
and  the  sentence  was  renewed  that  a more  distant 
home  must  be  sought. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


CONCLUSION. 

By  Rev.  J.  B.  Dales , D.  Zh,  Philadelphia. 

With  all  the  interest  connected  with  the  pre- 
ceding narrative  and  statements,  it  has  been 
urged  that  a concluding  chapter  is  called  for  to 
give  a somewhat  more  extended  view  of  things 
as  they  now  are  in  the  land  of  Egypt.  And  the 
following  is  the  more  cordially  furnished,  as  it  is 
the  result  of  personal  observations  made  during 
a visit  of  some  length  of  time  in  1862-3,  and  which 
extended  as  far  into  Upper  Egypt  as  the  first 
cataract  and  the  confines  of  Nubia,  five  hundred 
and  seventy-seven  miles  above  Cairo,  and  seven 
hundred  and  eight  from  the  sea  at  Alexandria. 

Deeply  interesting  as  Ancient  Egypt  has  ever 
been,  from  its  being  both  iu  sacred  and  profane 
history  one  of  the  first  clearly-defined  and  always 
one  of  the  most  eventful  countries  in  the  world, 
yet  of  scarcely  less  interest,  in  all  respects,  is 
Modern  Egypt  to  the  traveler,  the  philanthro- 
pist and  the  Christian  at  the  present  time.  Situ- 
ated at  that  peculiar  geographical  point  in  which 
it  may  serve  as  the  outlet  of  the  great  and  per- 
haps best  part  of  Africa,  with  almost  entire  com- 
35  (409) 


410 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


mand  of  the  Red  Sea  and  ready  access  to  every 
part  of  the  Mediterranean,  Egypt  is  in  an  admi- 
rable position  for  being  yet  one  of  the  best  com- 
mercial countries  in  the  world.  With  the  Nile 
entering  its  southern  border  and  traversing  its 
entire  length  in  a broad,  rich,  deep  stream  which 
averages  everywhere  half  a mile  in  width,  and 
fertilizes  by  its  annual  overflows  and  by  various 
artificial  methods,  the  whole  valley,  Egypt  is  thus 
provided  with  a never-failing  supply  of  water 
for  its  population,  of  fruitfulness  for  its  soil,  and 
of  natural  transportation  for  its  productions  to 
one  of  the  best  of  markets.  The  valley  of  the  Nile, 
down  to  a point  twelve  miles  below  Cairo,  aver- 
ages about  eight  miles  in  width,  and  is  bordered 
by  the  Arabian  and  Lybian  hills  that  approach  its 
eastern  and  western  banks  respectively,  rising 
from  three  hundred  to  twelve  hundred  feet  high. 
Below  the  city  of  Cairo  the  hills  and  the  desert 
entirely  disappear,  the  valley  widening  out  into 
an  apparently  limitless  plain,  and  the  river  di- 
vides and  finds  its  way  to  the  sea  by  eastern  and 
[western  branches,  which  have  their  mouths 
about  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  apart,  form- 
ins;  thus  the  two  sides  of  a triangle  with  the 
Mediterranean  for  its  base,  and  giving  the  term 
Delta  to  the  section  of  country  embraced  by 
them,  from  its  resemblance  in  shape  to  the  letter 
of  that  name  in  the  Greek  alphabet. 

The  soil  and  climate  of  this  valley  have  boun- 


THE  CIVIL  GOVERNMENT. 


411 


tifully  fitted  it  to  be  one  of  the  most  productive 
portions  of  the  earth.  Wheat,  barley,  beans, 
flax,  clover,  hemp,  tobacco,  cotton,  maize,  sugar 
cane,  coffee,  indigo,  madder,  etc.,  etc.,  grow  with 
almost  equal  ease  and  in  great  luxuriance. 
Dates,  figs,  pomegranates,  oranges,  lemons,  apri- 
cots, olives,  mulberries  and  bananas  are  supplied 
with  almost  unfailing  abundance.  Indeed,  every 
thing  indicates  that  under  the  influence  of  the 
proper  Christian  education  and  civilization  of  its 
people,  a well-directed  spirit  of  enterprise,  and  a 
thorough  and  well-arranged  cultivation  of  the 
soil,  Egypt  might,  in  a comparatively  short 
period,  rise  to  one  of  the  very  first  positions 
among  the  nations. 

Hitherto,  however,  almost  every  thing  has  been 
against  the  effecting  of  any  great  or  desirable 
change  in  its  condition  or  prospects.  More  par- 
ticularly— 

First.  The  civil  government  has  been  fearfully 
in  the  way.  For  many  years  now,  since  the  cel- 
ebrated Mohammed  Ali  threw  off  alike  the  annoy- 
ing and  threatening  power  of  the  Mamelukes  at 
home  and  the  oppressive  yoke  of  the  Turkish 
Government  abroad,  Egypt  has  been  only  a nom- 
inal viceroyship  of  Turkey.  Customarily,  every 
new  Viceroy,  on  assuming  the  government, 
makes  a visit  to  Constantinople,  and  is  nominally 
invested  with  the  right  to  exercise  his  office,  but 
really  Egypt  is  independent  of  foreign  control. 


412 


Egypt’s  princes. 


This,  however,  in  no  way  relieves  or  improves 
the  condition  of  the  people.  All  Egypt  is  in  the 
hands  and  subject  to  the  order,  and  even  the  de- 
mands, of  the  Viceroy.  lie  may  exhaust  at  his 
will  the  finances  of  the  Government  in  projects 
for  his  own  personal  aggrandisement,  or  to  per- 
form the  most  liberal  and  oftentimes  ill-judged 
and  extravagant  acts  of  munificence.  He  may 
lay  any  town  or  village  under  tribute  to  furnish 
a given  number  of  men  for  public  work,  or 
amount  of  money  or  grain  for  carrying  out  his 
whims  or  plans,  and  no  man  may  obtain  remu- 
neration or  redress.  Every  person,  therefore, 
and  every  thing  is  under  arbitrary  and  unreason- 
ing and  unreasonable  authority,  and  scarcely  a 
single  incentive  is  left  to  any  man  to  make  any 
personal  or  really  earnest  effort  to  improve  his 
condition.  Besides  this, 

Secondly.  The  character  or  nationalities  of  the 
population  tend  to  prevent  any  healthful  change. 
The  actual  population  of  Egypt  it  is  exceedingly 
difficult  to  ascertain.  The  last  census  taken  by 
the  Government  five  years  ago  (1859)  set  it 
down  at  5,125,000,  but  this  is  generally  believed 
to  be  far  above  the  real  number  of  inhabitants. 
Sir  Gardner  Wilkinson,  after  residing  some  time 
in  the  country,  placed  it  as  low  as  1,800,000. 
This,  undoubtedly,  is  far  below  the  truth.  Prob- 
ably from  3,000,000  to  4,000,000  is  a much 
nearer  estimate.  But  the  vast  mass  of  the  peo- 


THE  CLASSES  OP  POPULATION.  413 


pie  have  many  things  to  keep  up  separate  inter- 
ests among  themselves,  and  to  cause  that  there 
should  be  no  common  ground  upon  which,  they 
might  seek  individual  and  universal  improve- 
ment. Over  2,000,000  or  2,500,000  of  the  peo- 
ple are  Egyptians  of  more  or  less  modern  date 
and  of  a bigoted  Moslem  faith.  There  are  prob- 
ably from  300,000  to  500,000  who  are  Arabs, 
dwelling  in  the  deserts,  and  who  are  more  or  less 
of  the  wild,  untamable  Bedouin  character.  There 
are  also  nearly  the  same  number  probably  of 
Copts,  who  are  understood  to  be  the  lineal  de- 
scendants of  the  ancient  Egyptians,  a fine-appear- 
ing race,  handsome  in  their  features,  courteous 
in  their  manners,  and  almost  invariably  em- 
ployed by  the  Government  as  accountants  and 
in  the  various  departments  of  business,  a posi- 
tion for  which  they  seem  to  have  a remarkable 
aptitude.  Besides  these  there  are  20,000  or 
30,000  Turks  filling  the  various  civil  offices,  and 
then  there  are  smaller  numbers  of  Jews,  and,  es- 
pecially in  the  larger  cities,  persons  from  the  va- 
rious countries  of  Southern  Europe  and  Western 
Asia.  Now,  between  all  these  different  classes 
there  is  scarcely  any  thing  in  common.  The  very 
cities  of  Cairo  and  Alexandria  are  divided  into 
different  quarters  or  sections  in  which  the  differ- 
ent nationalities  have  their  homes.  The  Turks 
having  the  form  of  power  on  their  side,  lord  it 
over  the  others.  Moslems  assume  from  the  su- 
35* 


414 


Egypt’s  princes. 


periority  of  their  numbers  and  the  exclusiveness 
of  their  faith,  their  right  to  be  separate,  and,  in 
some  sense,  over  all  others.  The  Copts,  from 
long  custom  as  the  employees  and  dependents 
of  others,  seem  to  feel  that  they  have  no  special 
ground  on  which  they  may  ever  assert,  or  in  any 
effective  way  seek  independence  or  even  eleva- 
tion. The  Jews  here,  as  in  all  countries,  appear 
to  regard  themselves  as  little  else  than  sojourn- 
ers ; and  the  great  mass  of  the  Franks,  as  all 
Europeans  and  Americans  are  termed,  being  at- 
tracted here  usually  by  motives  of  gain,  are  in- 
terested only  in  whatever  will  promote  their  ob- 
ject. All  these  classes  have  different  schools 
and  studies,  different  pursuits,  and  in  many 
cases  different  customs  and  languages,  and  differ- 
ent aspirations  and  desires,  and  thus  can  never, 
as  things  now  are,  have  any  mutual  concern  for 
any  great  or  important  changes. 

Thirdly.  The  religious  sympathies  and  habits 
of  the  people  have  greatly  interfered  with  any 
successful  efforts  at  promoting  the  general  wel- 
fare. The  Moslem  religion,  which  is  the  faith 
of  at  least  two-thirds  of  all  the  people,  is  wide- 
spread, exclusive,  and,  as  far  as  it  in  any  sense 
dare,  is  rigidly  intolerant.  The  public  institutions 
are.  under  its  influence,  and  as  there  are  no  writ- 
ten laws  outside  of  the  Koran,  which  is  in  reality 
the  great  statute  book  of  the  land,  the  interpre- 
tation of  all  law  is  in  Moslem  hands  and  of  course 


RELIGIOUS  CLASSES  AND  HABITS.  415 


is  in  favor  of  the  Moslem  faith.  The  Copts  are 
about  one-fifteenth,  it  is  estimated,  of  the  entire 
population,  and  religiously  supposing  themselves 
to  be  the  descendants  of  the  great  mass  of  the 
people  of  Egypt  who  early  after  the  Christian 
era  embraced  the  Christian  faith,  they  sacredly 
hold  fast  the  name  of  their  Christian  profession, 
but  under  exceedingly  corrupt  and  superstitious 
forms  and  practices.  They  require  the  Scrip- 
tures to  be  read  in  the  public  services  of  their 
churches,  but  it  is  in  the  old  Coptic  tongue 
which  scarcely  any  of  the  people  understand. 
They  render  sacred  homage  to  pictures  and  in- 
sist upon  priestly  confessions  and  absolutions, 
upon  fastings  and  penances,  and  a vast  round  of 
good  works  by  which  they  literally  “ go  about 
to  establish  their  own  righteousness  rather  than 
submit  themselves  to  the  righteousness  of  God.” 
Besides  Mahommedans  and  Copts,  there  are  also 
Roman  Catholics,  Greeks  and  Jews,  in  small 
numbers  indeed,  but  helped  as  far  as  necessary 
from  abroad ; and  being  zealously  engaged  in 
seeking  to  draw  others  into  their  embrace,  they 
are  bitterly  opposed  to  whatever  would  break  in 
upon  surrounding  things  if  it  did  not  tend  to  ad- 
vance the  interests  of  their  particular  systems. 

Such  in  all  modern  years  has  been  the  staterof 
Egypt';  and,  under  the  influence  of  all  these  and 
other  things,  little  or  nothing  could  be  effectively 
done  for  >-eal  and  permanent  improvement.  But 


416 


Egypt’s  princes. 


under  the  orderings  of  the  Providence  of  Him 
who,  while,  ages  since,  He  declared  Egypt 
should  be  the  basest  of  kingdoms,  yet  caused 
glorious  things  to  be  spoken  of  her,  when  Princes 
should  come  out  of  her  and  He  would  Him- 
self say,  “ Egypt,  my  people,”  the  elements  of 
great  and  eventful  changes  are  now  unquestion- 
ably at  work. 

First.  In  a temporal  point  of  view,  a spirit  of 
individual  and  national  enterprise  hitherto  un- 
known is  rapidly  developing  itself.  Intercourse 
with  European  nations,  especially  with  the 
French  and  English,  has  led  the  later  Viceroys 
to  be  eagerly  disposed  to  introduce  railroads, 
vastly  improved  methods  of  irrigating  the  coun- 
try and  cultivating  the  soil,  and  various  institu- 
tions by  which  far  higher  attainments  shall  be 
made  in  general  education  than  at  any  previous 
time.  The  tendency  of  all  this,  though  in  many 
things  tinctured  sadly  with  infidelity,  and  in  al- 
most every  respect  far  from  what  it  ought  to  be, 
is  nevertheless  towards  a gradual  undermining 
of  long-established  and  ruinous,  because  ever  par- 
alysing, customs,  and  to  excite  and  bring  into  ac- 
tive exercise  a spirit  of  enterprise  and  a sense  of 
individual  responsibility,  which,  when  rightly 
developed,  can  never  fail  to  be  sooner  or  later 
productive  of  great  and  most  desirable  results. 
The  late  Viceroy,  Said  Pasha,  who  died  early 
on  the  morning  of  January  18th,  1863,  and 


INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 


417 


the  ] /resent  Viceroy,  Ismail  Pasha,  who  came 
into  power  during  the  forenoon  of  the  same 
day,  have  each  shown  much  of  this  spirit. 
The  opening  of  the  Suez  Canal,  to  connect 
the  Mediterranean  and  the  Red  Seas  with  a 
good  ship  channel  (a  work  commenced  April 
25,  1859,  and  now  in  a promising  way  of 
completion)  ; the  building  of  railroads,  already 
in  operation  131  miles  between  Alexandria  and 
Cairo  and  91  between  Cairo  and  Suez;  and  the 
projecting  of  other  railways  up  the  valley  of  the 
Nile,  with  steamers  on  its  waters  and  telegraphic 
lines  on  its  banks; — all  these,  with  the  increas- 
ing  flow  of  enterprising  foreigners  into  its  bounds 
to  help  develop  its  resources,  though  it  be  for 
their  own  aggrandisement,  tend  directly  and 
powerfully  to  change  the  long-existing  state  of 
things  in  Egypt,  and  pave  the  way  for  a far  more 
promising  and  eventful  future  to  the  whole 
country. 

A striking  illustration  of  all  this  has  lately 
been  given  by  the  Rev.  John  Hogg,  an  intelli- 
gent missionary  of  the  United  Presbyterian 
Church,  residing  for  several  years  past  in  Alex- 
andria and  Cairo.  In  a communication  to  the 
General  Assembly  of  the  United  Presbyterian 
Church  at  its  late  meeting  in  Philadelphia,  he 
says  : 

“ A great  change  has  passed  over  this  country 
(Egypt)  during  the  last  three  years.  We  refer, of 


418 


Egypt’s  princes. 


course,  to  the  present  and  prospective  influence 
on  its  civilization  of  the  recent  impulse  given  to 
cotton  trade  within  its  bounds,  and  of  the  large 
increase  of  wealth  which  has  flowed  into  its  ex- 
chequer since  its  granaries  were  transformed  into 
cotton  gins  and  the  merchant  princes  of  the  west 
became  commission  agents  to  the  turbaned  land- 
owners  of  the  Delta  and  Nile  Valley.  Thirty- 
five  millions  of  dollars  were  shipped  in  specie  into 
Egypt  from  England  during  1862  in  receipt  for 
cotton  exported  from  the  Egyptian  market.  The 
receipts  for  the  last  year  must  have  greatly  ex- 
ceeded that  amount,*  for  almost  every  fellah 
(peasant}  in  the  country  has  planted  two-thirds 
of  his  acres  in  cotton,  while  the  Viceroy  and 
other  pashas  scarcely  planted  any  thing  else 
throughout  their  vast  estates.  The  effect  has 
been  almost  electric.  The  whole  country  is  now 
in  a state  of  transition.  The  Viceroy  and  Pashas 
are  amassing  immense  fortunes.  Poor  fellahs 
who  had  never  handled  a gold  coin  in  their  lives 
are  now  hoarding  them  in  handfuls.  Workmen’s 
..wages  have  been  doubled  and  tripled  in  the 
course  of  a few  months.  The  small  coins  which 
formerly  constituted  the  principal  currency  are 
now  nearly  out  of  use,  and  even  the  smallest 
transaction  must  be  made  in  silver. 

“ Beneath  the  stream  of  wealth  now  flowing 

* A recent  number  of  the  London  Times  states  the  amount 
at  12,000,000?  (about  $60,000,000). 


INCREASED  ENTERPRISE. 


419  * 


into  Egypt,  irrigating  and  enriching  the  upper 
stratum  of  society,  there  is  an  under  current 
which  holds  in  solution  elements  whose  succes- 
sive depositions  seem  destined  to  raise  the  whole 
surface  of  society  to  a higher  level.  We  refer 
to  the  influx  of  new  ideas  and  new  habits  of 
thought  and  feeling  engendered  by  so  much  in- 
tercourse with  the  civilized  nations  of  the  west, 
and  the  stimulus  given  to  the  native  mind  by 
the  importation  of  the  latest  productions  of  the 
mechanical  genius  of  the  age,  and  their  applica- 
tion to  the  purposes  of  irrigation  and  agriculture 
by  nearly  all  the  rich  landed  proprietors  through- 
out the  country.  The  death  by  murrain  of  half 
a million  head  of  cattle  has  necessitated  the  in- 
troduction of  pumping  engines  and  steam- 
plowing  machinery  on  an  immense  scale.  The 
revolution  has  been  rapid  and  complete.  Time- 
worn and  stereotyped  implements  and  processes 
have  become  antiquated  in  one  year.  The 
shadoof  and  set  Ha  have  been  supplanted  by  the 
steam-engine ; the  primitive  wooden  plow  of 
the  ancients  has  given  place  to  steam-plowing 
machinery  of  the  costliest  kind  that  England  can 
produce ; a second  track  of  rails  is  being  laid 
down  between  Cairo  and  Alexandria ; another 
has  been  measured  oft’  from  Cairo  to  Ginneh,  in 
Upper  Egypt;  branch  lines  are  being  increased, 
the  telegraph  is  almost  everywhere,  and  thus  a 
spirit  of  active  enterprise  is  being  diffused 


420 


Egypt's  princes. 


throughoul  the  whole  mass  of  society,  which  may 
soon  raise  ‘ the  basest  of  kingdoms’  to  an  honora- 
ble position  among  civilized  nations,  and  place  it 
eventually  on  a sure  footing  of  permanent  prosper- 
ity.” All  this  is  very  marked  and  significant.  But 

Secondly.  Our  chief  hope  of  changes  that  will 
be  for  good  in  the  best  of  all  senses,  lies  in  the 
introduction  of  the  Bible  and  an  Evangelical 
Christianity  to  all  parts  of  the  country.  N or  are 
we  without  encouraging  tokens  of  this  consumma- 
tion, so  devoutly  to  be  desired, drawing  on.  Re- 
peatedly within  the  last  thirty  years  attempts 
have  been  made  to  establish  Protestant  missions 
within  its  bounds,  sometimes  in  reference  to  the 
Jews,  sometimes  the  Copts,  and  sometimes  with 
an  enlarged  view* of  reaching  all  of  every  name 
to  whom  by  any  means  the  gospel  might  be 
borne.  With  few  exceptions  these  efforts  have 
not  had  any  permanent  or  wide-spread  influence, 
and  indeed  in  most  instances  have  been  virtually 
abandoned.  Still  the  work  goes  on. 

In  the  fall  of  1853,  Dr.  J.  6.  Paulding,  medi- 
cal missionary  of  the  mission  of  the  Associate 
Reformed  Church  at  that  time  in  Damascus, 
Syria,  visited  Egypt,  with  a view  of  ascertaining 
whether  a mission  might  be  successfully  com- 
menced in  that  country.  His  impressions  were 
decidedly  favorable  to  the  undertaking ; and,  ac- 
cordingly, late  in  the  following  year  (1854), 
Rev.  Thomas  M’Cague  and  wife  sailed  for  this 


PREACHING  AND  TEACHING. 


421 


country  to  inaugurate  there  a mission  for  the 
above  church.  Not  long  afterwards,  Mr. 
M’Cague  was  joined  by  the  Rev.  James  Barnett, 
from  the  mission  in  Damascus,  and  at  length  they 
established  themselves  in  Cairo.  Here  they  early 
opened  schools,  visited  from  house  to  house,  read 
the  Holy  Scriptures,  and  held  discussions  with  the 
people  in  reference  to  the  one  only  system  that  sets 
forth  a Saviour  for  the  ruined  and  the  lost  of 
mankind.  Their  progress  was  slow,  but  it  was 
encouraging  and  sure. 

Two  years  afterward,  Rev.  Gulian  Lansing, 
also  from  the  mission  at  Damascus,  entered  upon 
the  work,  and  was  located  at  first  in  Alexandria. 
Here  he  opened  a place  for  preaching  the  gos- 
pel, founded  a book  depot,  whence  the  Scriptures 
might  be  circulated,  organized  schools,  and  ere 
long  was  assisted  by  Mr.  John  Hogg,  of  Scotland, 
in  taking  charge  of  the  boys’  school,  and  by 
Miss  Sarah  B.  Dales,  also  of  Damascus,  for  the 
girls’  school.  All  these  enterprises  were  well 
received,  and  in  various  ways  they  have  already 
been  productive  of  good.  In  many  instances 
attention  was  thoroughly  roused,  and  as  the 
Scriptures  were  read  and  the  instructions  in  the 
schools  were  given  in  the  native  tongues  of  the 
people,  Arabic,  Italian,  French,  English,  etc.,  etc., 
many  were  made  to  hear,  for  the  first  time,  the 
way  of  life,  and  in  several  cases  were  led  to  re- 
joice in  it,  while,  in  the  immediate  and  entire 


•122 


EGYPT  S PRINCES. 


change  that  was  seen  in  their  lives,  and  habits, 
and  aims,,  there  was  a powerful  recommendation 
of  the  evangelical  faith  that  they  had  received 
At  length,  there  came  to  be  felt  a most  pain- 
ful want  of  enlarged  mission  premises  for  carry- 
ing forward  the  great  work  begun.  Just  at  that 
time,  through  the  munificent  generosity  of  the 
late  Viceroy  of  Egypt,  Said  Pasha,  encouraged 
by  the  late  excellent  William  S.  Thayer,  United 
States  Consul  General  to  Egypt,  a grant  wras 
made  of  a large  and  most  valuable  property 
upon  the  Ezbekeyeh,  or  central  square,  in  Cairo, 
to  be  for  ever  the  property,  and  used  for  the 
purposes  of  the  mission.  In  a short  period  the 
building  was  thoroughly  refitted  and  adapted  to 
its  purpose,  regular  chapel  services  were  insti- 
tuted in  it,  in  both  the  Arabic  and  English 
languages ; schools,  for  both  boys  and  girls, 
under  entirely  separate  teachers  and  influences, 
as  is  required  by  Eastern  customs,  were  opened. 
Rev.  Messrs.  Lansing  and  Hogg  and  Miss  Dales 
were  removed  thither,  and  a work  was  begun 
which,  after  years  of  trial,  now  has  been  marked 
with  most  signal  results.  Several  hundred 
persons  have  been  taught  in  these  schools. 
A church,  with  a numerous  and  steadily  increas- 
ing membership,  has  been  well  organized.  A 
book  depot  has  been  opened,  from  which,  in  con- 
nection with  the  one  in  Alexandria,  thousands  of 
copies  of  the  Bible  and  other  evangelical  works 


CHRISTIAN  MISSIONS. 


423 


have  been  scattered  abroad,  and  many  of  these 
have  already  borne  precious  fruit.  Throughout  an 
increasingly  large  community  the  Sabbath  is 
being  more  and  more  sacredly  revered,  and  the 
low  habits  of  idleness,  vice  and  sensuality  so 
common  with  the  vast  mass  of  the  people  are 
being  conscientiously  laid  aside.  The  customs  ^ 
that  have  ever  doomed  woman  to  exclusion  and 
degradation  are  being  gradually  invaded,  and 
prospects  are  brightening  of  her  being  yet  ele- 
vated to  her  true  place  as  the  companion,  the 
equal,  the  one  with  man.  The  attendants  upon 
the  mission-schools  are  bec'oming  proverbial  for 
their  morality,  their  industry,  their  purity  and 
their  worth  ; and  in  numerous  instances,  both  in 
Alexandria  and  Cairo,  and  up  the  valley  of  the 
Nile,  parents  are  expressing  desires  to  have  their 
sons  and  daughters  brought  up  under  the  in- 
stitutions of  the  Christian  faith  rather  than  their 
own,  inasmuch  as  they  believe  them,  in  some 
way,  far  better  fitted  to  make  those  who  enjoy 
them  upright  and  happy. 

Besides  the  direct  work  thus  carried  on  by 
the  ministry  of  the  Word,  and  by  the  schools,  in 
connection  with  the  mission,  a great  work  has 
been  in  progress  for  some  time  in  circulating 
the  word  of  God  and  other  evangelical  reading 
throughout  almost  the  entire  country.  A boat 
(as  described  in  the  preceding  work)  was  pro- 
cured, and  taking  boxes  of  books,  as  generously 


424 


EGYPT  S TRINCES. 


furnished  by  the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  So- 
ciety, the  American  Bible  Society,  the  American 
Tract  Society,  and  other  channels  of  Christian 
benevolence,  the  missionaries  have  gone  forth  in 
turn  literally  sowing  the  good  seed.  Thousands 
upon  thousands  of  volumes  have  thus  been  scat- 
tered abroad.  As  we,  ourselves,  again  and 
again  saw,  scarcely  would  the  boat  be  tied  up  at 
the  bank  near  one  of  the  many  hundred  villages 
along  the  Nile,  before  men  would  come,  and 
sitting  down  cross-legged  on  the  deck,  or  on  the 
shore,  listen  with  intense  interest  while  the 
missionary  read  and  expounded  in  their  own 
tongue  the  wonderful  works  of  God,  often  inter- 
rupting him  with  anxious  inquiries,  and  with 
expressions  and  nods  of  warm  approval  and 
assent. 

In  this  missionary  service,  now  under  the  di- 
rection and  sustained  by  the  United  Presbyterian 
Church  of  this  country,  there  are  at  Alexandria 
Rev.  Andrew  Watson  and  wife,  and  Miss 
Martha  J.  M’Kown,  together  with  several  na- 
tives, engaged  as  helpers  in  this  great  work.  In 
Cairo  there  are  now  at  work,  or  temporarily 
absent  on  account  of  exhausted  health  and 
strength,  Rev.  Dr.  Barnett  and  Revs.  Thomas 
M’Cague,  G.  Lansing,  J.  Hogg  and  S.  C.  Ewing, 
with  their  wives,  and  Misses  Sarah  B.  Dales  and 
Sarah  Hart,  with  several  native  helpers,  both 
male  and  female.  Thus,  there  is  a well-organized 


PROMISES  OF  CHRISTIANITY. 


425 


and  steady  going  forth  of  those  who  have  that 
word  whose  entrance  giveth  life. 

With  all  these  changes  introduced,  and  the 
good  elements  for  effecting  them,  more  and 
more  thoroughly  in  operation,  there  seems,  in- 
deed, good  ground  to  have  hope  for  Egypt. 
With  every  copy  of  the  word  of  God  there  goes 
a power  that  is  mighty  through  God.  Faithful 
is  He  that  hath  said,  “ My  word  shall  not  return 
unto  me  void;  it  shall  accomplish  that  which 
I please,  and  prosper  in  the  thing  whereto  I sent 
it.”  As  it  tends  to  deliver  all  who  receive  it 
from  the  bondage  of  sin  and  make  them  stand 
forth  the  freed-men  of  Christ,  so  it  also  tends  to 
lift  all  such  up  to  appreciate  and  effectually 
seek  after  the  rights  and  the  best  interests  of 
men,  even  in  this  world,  and  in  the  highest  and 
noblest  of  all  senses.  With  it,  then,  finding  its 
way  by  so  many  means  to  the  hands  and  the 
hearts  of  the  people  of  Egypt  at  large,  how  can 
we  doubt  that  “because  of  it,”  even  there, 
“ the  wilderness  and  the  solitary  place  shall  be 
glad,  and  the  desert  rejoice  and  blossom  as  the 
rose.”  Aye,  as  we  ourselves  have  looked  upon 
the  office-bearers  in  the  mission  church  in  Cairo, 
serious,  thoughtful  men,  of  noble  frame  and 
more  noble  mien — men,  indeed,  that  in  their  de- 
votion of  their  all  to  Christ  and  his  cause,  show 
that  they  are  really  in  earnest  in  what  they  do,  we 
could  not  doubt,  that  under  the  providence  and 


426 


Egypt’s  princes. 


by  the  word  and  Holy  Spirit  of  God,  the  way  in 
preparing,  and  the  day  is  coming  when,  as  never 
before,  and  in  ways  that  shall  give  joy  in 
heaven,  God  will  have  Princes  come  out  ov 
Egypt ! 


THE  END. 


T t 

V 


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Date  Due 

Nnl2’S 

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AP  3 -‘52 

-men  m 

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